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IIRC Champions were factory on the earlier years and NGKs on the later years. Not entirely sure however. Also, owls or something, it sounds like it might be a throttle position sensor or IAC motor issue but I'm not 100% sure on that, I'd have to be there with a multimeter to give you a solid answer.
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Nov 29, 2013 00:15
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I'm going to stick this here. It's my first attempt at welding something for my Cherokee. Actually, it's my first attempt at welding anything, ever. I thought this would be something fairly simple to do and would be a decent learning project. I had a receiver on my XJ when I bought it. It had a weird (2 3/32") hitch in it. I was never able to pull the hitch out. I wound up just swapping the ball on it. I decided I wanted the ability to remove the receiver hitch because I kept hitting myself in the shin. Parking is tight at my apartment and the ball would stick out over the sidewalk. Getting the receiver off was a giant pain in the rear end. I broke four bolts on the passenger side and all three on the driver side. Once the receiver was out, I heated the receiver up with a torch and beat on it to get the hitch out. There was a lot of rust that was falling off. A lot of rust. I can hit the receiver with a 20oz hammer and leave dimples in the steel. I am not sticking this back on the XJ to tow with it. This is the receiver I pulled off the XJ.  So I hit up the local steel yard and bought some stuff.  Using the receiver I pulled off, I took some measurements and cut some steel and laid it out.  First weld I ever laid down.  Second weld looks much better.  I did go back and grind down the bad spot in the first weld and redo it.  Ground both sides down.  Welded a plate over the top for strength.  All the way around now.  I cut the mounting ears off of the old receiver since they were pretty solid and hadn't lost their original thickness.  I neglected to get photos where I welded the bottom plate on the receiver where the chains will hook and the ears prior to painting it.  I did everything with some help from my uncle who is a better welder than I using his arc welder. This was done with 7014 rod. I had some fun doing this and hope to do more welding in the future.
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Dec 1, 2013 05:11
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Looks good! Now start making some bumpers and other awesome poo poo
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Dec 1, 2013 10:51
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Audiologic posted:Looks good! Now start making some bumpers and other awesome poo poo Thanks! I'm pretty pleased with it. I even got it installed today. The Chevy blue clashes with the paint, but I figure in a few months road grime will dull the color and it won't be so bad. 
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Dec 1, 2013 22:30
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Yo how hard is it to fix door sag on a 98? 2 door. It seems like it should be easy, PO did the driver's door but I guess my friends might be getting kinda tired of heaving the passenger door up when they close it.
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Dec 1, 2013 23:10
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Dorman makes door hinge repair kits for many makes and models, in the red HELP packaging. Only do one hinge at a time, it takes two people, one to hold the door. I am sure YouTube has how to videos. You can fix it really cheap with just a small hammer and punch/screwdriver and a 10mm(?) wrench for the door limiter.
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Dec 2, 2013 03:04
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th vwls hv scpd posted:Thanks! I'm pretty pleased with it. I like the blue enamel--gives it a nice industrial/working machine look. The hitch looks exactly like the aftermarket one I spent $100+ on, so nice job doing it yourself.
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Dec 2, 2013 04:26
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 So my car made a friend in the parking lot tonight. That's uh, something alright.
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Dec 2, 2013 05:23
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ExplodingSims posted:
9 speed transmission. 
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Dec 2, 2013 14:08
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I'm kind of surprised how similar in dimensions the new cherokee is compared to the old. That poor face though--ugh. Why can't they do more stuff like the Patriot that has boxy throwback looks?
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Dec 2, 2013 19:24
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Did a cool snow wheeling run yesterday. Before I went I decided to do some fluid and filter changes. Got underneath and noticed my diff breather was pulled out at the breather and hanging down. Reinserted it. Probably pulled out by a branch or something. Drained the fluid which was black and replaced with new. Did the same on the rear but that stuff still looked like honey. I assume some poo poo got into the front diff. Also the prong to connect the hose to the fuel filler on the evap can snapped off. Trying to locate a new one. Its just the white module. Fuel vapor detection pump. They're $8.50 from rock auto. So probably $100 way up here. Question: my sway bar disconnect has stopped working again. (08 Jeep Jk Rubicon) It isn't covered under warranty anymore. What are people doing to fix this ? The setup is like $2400 to replace. I wonder if its just a connector that needs cleaning ?
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Dec 2, 2013 19:29
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jonathan posted:Question: my sway bar disconnect has stopped working again. (08 Jeep Jk Rubicon) You can get a quick disconnect setup and just undo the sway bar while you're airing down - a gently caress ton cheaper and takes 30 seconds to unhook. But I definitely understand wanting to keep all systems working.
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Dec 2, 2013 19:57
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Astonishing Wang posted:You can get a quick disconnect setup and just undo the sway bar while you're airing down - a gently caress ton cheaper and takes 30 seconds to unhook. But I definitely understand wanting to keep all systems working. Yeah, I don't really want to go that route, I connect and reconnect often in q single wheeling session. I'll consider it as a last resort, it would be nice if there was some sort of manual lever to retrofit to the disconnect motor...
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Dec 3, 2013 00:22
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jonathan posted:Yeah, I don't really want to go that route, I connect and reconnect often in q single wheeling session. I'll consider it as a last resort, it would be nice if there was some sort of manual lever to retrofit to the disconnect motor... Do you find a lot of situations off-road where it makes sense to have the sway bar connected? I guess if you really need stability in the front it helps?
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Dec 3, 2013 00:27
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Astonishing Wang posted:Do you find a lot of situations off-road where it makes sense to have the sway bar connected? I guess if you really need stability in the front it helps? The only situation I actually discovered it was dangerous to have it disconnected was backing up fast on a dirt road - started to get a little tank slapping action going on and learned that lesson!
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Dec 3, 2013 00:58
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Astonishing Wang posted:Do you find a lot of situations off-road where it makes sense to have the sway bar connected? I guess if you really need stability in the front it helps? We have a lot of trails where its off camber and you're side hilling for long distances. I find the sway bar keeps the lean angle in check. Other than that, there are a lot of rough sections followed by the nicest maintained gravel roads you will ever see. Like 85mph on cruise control. I dont know. I will start by cleaning up the module and electrical connectors.
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Dec 3, 2013 01:01
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jonathan posted:We have a lot of trails where its off camber and you're side hilling for long distances. I find the sway bar keeps the lean angle in check. Other than that, there are a lot of rough sections followed by the nicest maintained gravel roads you will ever see. Like 85mph on cruise control. Currie Anti-rock is quite good at maintaining weight transfer while not limiting flex to a significant degree. The ORO SwayLoc with remote release is also an option if you have money to throw at it.
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Dec 3, 2013 05:56
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mod sassinator posted:I'm kind of surprised how similar in dimensions the new cherokee is compared to the old. Yeah, it's actually a pretty decently sized car. I almost like it from the side/rear view, but good god that front. But yeah, if you're going to make a car and call it the Cherokee it should be two boxes welded together, you'd think that'd be a pretty simple concept. I'd kill for a decent RWD drive Jeep styled like the Patriot, and maybe something that didn't suffer such a horrible case of the GM Interiors.
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Dec 3, 2013 06:27
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<sigh> I forgot I popped the hood release to check my oil and whatnot when I stopped for gas. Drove off with it half-latched and it flew up while I was driving. It bend some poo poo, the hood doesn't seem to open or close right, seems to be pushed back too far and it smashed the gently caress out of my cowl and grinds the poo poo out of what remains of it whenever I open/close it. I also now seem to be missing my passenger side sprayer. I really thought today was going to be a nice day. Now I am just mad at my stupidity, which is the worst thing.  EDIT: So the cowl I am not really concerned about, it should be easy enough to find a replacement. Before doing that I need to fix my hood so it doesn't grind against it and smash the new one. The hood seems to be pushed back and there is a larger gap in the front between hood and grill. How do I fix? 
owls or something fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 18:55
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ExplodingSims posted:
This seems to happen all the time with my Wrangler and other Wranglers.
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Dec 3, 2013 20:40
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JEEVES420 posted:This seems to happen all the time with my Wrangler and other Wranglers.  YUP
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Dec 3, 2013 20:53
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Happens to me too, but even with only 2wd/open diff and spanked mismatched street tires I could hardpark better than wranglers  
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Dec 3, 2013 21:09
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owls or something posted:<sigh> Should be some adjustment in where the hood hinges attach to the hood, but I haven't actually looked on my Cherokee. Might need new hinges.
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Dec 3, 2013 21:51
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It looks like the back of the hood is dented and pushed down to me. That's probably why it is catching, I had that happen on a hood I stupidly bought at the junkyard even though it had a small dent at the back from being forced over.
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Dec 4, 2013 14:57
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kastein posted:It looks like the back of the hood is dented and pushed down to me. That's probably why it is catching, I had that happen on a hood I stupidly bought at the junkyard even though it had a small dent at the back from being forced over. Yep, dented in on both sides where it smooshed against the wiper posts it seems. I did loosen the bolts that connect the hinges to the hood and adjust it forward a bit. That helped make it close and latch somewhat more smoothly, so I am satisfied with that for now. I might go to a junkyard or something and try to find a new cowl. I don't care about the cosmetics of it being broken, but not having window pissers will be annoying in the winter. Hopefully I can find one in a matching color... or maybe a black one wouldn't be too bad.
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Dec 4, 2013 15:59
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owls or something posted:Yep, dented in on both sides where it smooshed against the wiper posts it seems. I did loosen the bolts that connect the hinges to the hood and adjust it forward a bit. That helped make it close and latch somewhat more smoothly, so I am satisfied with that for now. I might go to a junkyard or something and try to find a new cowl. I don't care about the cosmetics of it being broken, but not having window pissers will be annoying in the winter. Paint it matte black if you have to - anti-glare stylin'!
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Dec 6, 2013 00:20
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Paint it with bedliner and fit some tiedowns, a fair number of winch challenge trucks and the like do that here, so they can bungee their recovery rope etc on there and grab it quickly, rather than having to rummage around in the back. Or mount your spare wheel on it to free up some cargo space.
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Dec 6, 2013 14:52
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I'm installing a slip yoke eliminator tomorrow morning. One thing I forgot to account for is that with my current transfer case drop the bolts that hold the skid on are extra long. I don't think they will work when it's just the skid plate directly bolted to the frame instead of with the spacer in between. It should be okay to just chop the bolts down to size, right? We will have a table saw so it shouldn't be a problem, but would I be better off just getting new bolts?
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Dec 6, 2013 20:19
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Astonishing Wang posted:I'm installing a slip yoke eliminator tomorrow morning. One thing I forgot to account for is that with my current transfer case drop the bolts that hold the skid on are extra long. I don't think they will work when it's just the skid plate directly bolted to the frame instead of with the spacer in between. It should be okay to just chop the bolts down to size, right? We will have a table saw so it shouldn't be a problem, but would I be better off just getting new bolts? If you would need to cut more threads further up the shank to make it work, no, just buy new ones.
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Dec 6, 2013 20:26
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InitialDave posted:For something like that, yeah, just cut them. Thread a nut on first, then cut and finish the end. Removing the nut will make sure the threads around the cut are still good, and clean up minor damage to them. Brilliant! I hadn't thought of the nut.
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Dec 6, 2013 20:27
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Fuckberries. On top of the icepocalypse, the Cherokee's check engine light came on and it started stumbling on the way home. I just prayed the silly thing wouldn't quit in the middle of the icy highway. Made it home, now I need to pull codes and figure out what's wrong. I'm thinking crank sensor, but not going to mess with it until the ice goes away.
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Dec 7, 2013 00:51
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Speaking of painting Cherokees, I decided to undo some of the damage that 4 years of not waxing my car and Georgia's sun had done to my hood. The idea was to use Plum Crazy but I was limited to what I could find in a rattle can because I had to be able to drive my car the next day.    Album of in-progress pictures. I don't have any pictures of after I wet-sanded, compounded, waxed the clearcoat so it still has a matte finish in the last pictures...also I need to put on another coat of clear and take pictures without a combination of the florescent lights in my garage and my 10+ year old camera, but it came out better than I was expecting. Tips I learned:
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Dec 7, 2013 02:50
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Barbie Jeep downhill racing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QU-KMsc45lM
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Dec 7, 2013 04:53
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jonathan posted:Barbie Jeep downhill racing. Well, that was entertaining. The Jeep Hurricanes held up well, but the only one with any semblance of control was the 4-wheeler. 'Course, none of them had anything resembling brakes...
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Dec 7, 2013 05:25
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They all must be running GM tie rods right right !
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Dec 7, 2013 07:27
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Forgot to post a warning to XJ folks looking to replace their AW4 trans cooler lines - don't use the Dorman parts. Somewhere in the deepest industrial shithole of China is a robot making hardlines that are just incorrect enough to be dangerous. Feed and return hardlines: OE lines are routed past a mount, bend roughly 30deg, and enter the quick disconnect fittings on the AW4. Both Dorman lines are slightly short post-bend, resulting in a line that can be pressed into the fitting with a great deal of force, thus putting the line in tension and leaving the plastic quick disconnect under a great deal of compression. This won't last long. Additionally, the four-pronged metal clips to retain the hoses onto the front fittings are apparently pre-fatigued in the factory. I went through two sets of Dorman lines before just buying the OE lines (made in Ohio) from a dealer, and surprise, they were bent properly and fit like magic. Sure, they're twice the price, but AW4s ain't cheap (unless you're kastein and just really like swapping them). Although there's a distinction between top vs. bottom cooler inlet on later XJs (mid-year '99 from what I've seen), I imagine the additional hardline up front and the swaged hoses make up the difference - rear lines are probably the same. Front crossover hardline: Dorman piece appears to have been bent over the corner of a table rather than with a tubing bender. It fits, but why would you? Lastly, the quick disconnect retention bore on the Dorman GM-style fittings (800-714) is roughly a millimeter larger than that of the OE piece. That'll do a great job of retaining the clip, I'm sure.  Mopar fittings are just a couple bucks more.
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 23:18
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Just noticed this thread for the first time... My gf's 99 Cherokee is starting to piss me off. Has a disappearing coolant act. Right now it's about half a quart a week. I've done the radiator, all hoses, thermostat, water pump, head gasket, checked the heater core for leaks. I can pressure test the system and it will only drop 1 psi in about 10 minutes. Which could or could not be the fact I'm using a harbor freight pressure tester. I know the 00-01 heads were prone to cracking but never heard that for the 99. Also have no coolant and oil mixing going on. It is a giant mystery.
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Dec 9, 2013 00:02
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shootme posted:Just noticed this thread for the first time... My gf's 99 Cherokee is starting to piss me off. Has a disappearing coolant act. Right now it's about half a quart a week. I've done the radiator, all hoses, thermostat, water pump, head gasket, checked the heater core for leaks. I can pressure test the system and it will only drop 1 psi in about 10 minutes. Which could or could not be the fact I'm using a harbor freight pressure tester. I know the 00-01 heads were prone to cracking but never heard that for the 99. Also have no coolant and oil mixing going on. It is a giant mystery. How about your rad cap? Edit: vvv there is a dye you can dump in your system and use a black light to find your leak. Also how about your coolant recovery tank. They can develop hair line cracks that will piss enough fluid away with out seeing it. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Dec 9, 2013 |
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Dec 9, 2013 00:14
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First thing I replaced, then a new one with the new radiator.
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Dec 9, 2013 00:15
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| # ? May 23, 2024 12:08 |
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HYPOTHETICALLY, if one replaced the water pump on a '99 4.0 WJ and if the parts store gave the wrong gasket so it was worthless and it was icy and cold out and one had to get this fucker driving tomorrow, would it be acceptable to use black RTV and wait 24h before final torquing and filling/starting?
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Dec 9, 2013 00:18
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