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Carnival Rider posted:This morning he's still not moving his back legs and doesn't have control of his bladder. I've been worrying and reading everything I can on it and noticed someone said that if they can't feel their back legs before a corrective surgery the recovery chance drops to 50%. We're worrying because he wasn't able to move his back legs by the time we got him to the vet. The doctor is still optimistic and says that it's normal but we are worrying about our little guy. Does anyone know the chances of recovery of mobility for things like this? Well. I have a good story to hopefully counteract the scary sounding statistics. My dog, Monty, had IVDD back in 2009 and it got to the point where he couldn't use his back legs at all before it was diagnosed. I was terrified he would be paralyzed forever, or would have to be euthed. He had to have the surgery and when we went to pick him up a couple days after the surgery, he literally pulled me out the door. The vet said that normally back surgery dogs have to be carried to the car. So don't give up hope!!   Day before the surgery. You can see his back legs are just... useless.  The day we picked him up from the vet.   And here he is last month pretending to be a flyball dog  I know it looks lovely and sucks not knowing what will happen. But it is a great sign that the vet is optimistic. I hope your boy will be back to running around in no time <3
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Dec 9, 2013 16:36
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Pelafina posted:Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help me with a moving problem. I'm looking at moving from the east coast to Hawaii in about a month and a half. I have five cats, the oldest of which is about 8 years. I'm figuring I can't lug five cats in carriers with me through the country, but having them sit in cargo for an entire day seems sort of severely cruel.
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Dec 9, 2013 17:57
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Slugworth posted:Sorry, no advice on the flight, but have you looked into Hawaii's quarantine programs yet? If so, disregard, but if not, prepare yourself for anywhere from $1,000 to 5,000 dollars to quarantine all five cats, and possibly as long as a 4 month quarantine for them. I was going to mention this. Hawaii doesn't screw around with rabies quarantine. Do all five of your cats have recent rabies certificates? If not go get them vaccinated right now because it may delay your moving plans. And expect a lot of money and a quarantine. That way you can be pleased when it's relatively simple rather than floored when it costs :tenbux:
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Dec 9, 2013 20:18
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Hopefully some of our vets and vets in training are reading this thread... This post is like, WORDS, but I figure the more info the better. Thanksgiving morning, one of our dogs started vomiting. No stomach contents were coming up, but there was a lot of retching, and she was throwing up a yellowy bubbly mucus-y mess. Rectal temp was normal. We took her to the e-vet, they palpated, felt no blockage and she had no sensitivity. They gave her an anti-emetic shot, subcutaneous fluids for dehydration, and gave us 5 days of metronidazole. The next day she passed a decent size shard of the cow hoof we gave her as a treat. After that, she seemed back to normal. No vomiting, eating well, normal bowel movements. One week later, she developed a high fever (105.5 at it's peak) and began a near constant shivering. Bloodwork came back as normal, but with low WBC. She was tested for heartworm, lyme, and a couple other tick-borne diseases which were never named to me. All came back clear. Abdominal x-rays showed nothing too anomalous, but the vet did mention there was some thickening of the intestinal wall. She was put on doxycycline, which seemed at first to knock the fever down, but it came back by the end of the day. At that point she was hospitalized over night on iv for fluids and an antibiotic (Not sure what). Her fever broke, and she is back home with us. However, the constant shivering still remains. She's eating well, pooping well, has no fever, no signs of lethargy, no vomiting, no symptoms at all except for the shivering. The vet I spoke to when I called wasn't the one that treated her, and her only suggestion was that my dog might be nervous/excited about returning home. I appreciate that the vet wasn't familiar with her case, but at the same time, that's not a super solid guess.. I am going to get a second opinion, either at a different clinic or with a different vet at mine, but I also figured I would ask here. Oh, also, she does not shiver while asleep, or standing up. Just laying down, and it seems to only happen when she inhales.
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Dec 10, 2013 05:29
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I have three cats who are all old or getting old - 8, 9 and 14 years. Would it be beneficial to start feeding them human grade mince and human grade cans of tuna/salmon or is cat food just as good? They go nuts for the human stuff so I assume at the very least they really like it and it will make them happier, but are there health benefits as well? Surely human food is more nutritious? I plan to continue feeding them their usual dry food as well because I guess they need some sort of roughage in their diets.
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Dec 10, 2013 06:09
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fuckpot posted:I have three cats who are all old or getting old - 8, 9 and 14 years. Would it be beneficial to start feeding them human grade mince and human grade cans of tuna/salmon or is cat food just as good? They go nuts for the human stuff so I assume at the very least they really like it and it will make them happier, but are there health benefits as well? Surely human food is more nutritious? I plan to continue feeding them their usual dry food as well because I guess they need some sort of roughage in their diets. If you're being serious, no, do not do this.
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Dec 10, 2013 06:22
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Hummingbirds posted:If you're being serious, no, do not do this. Well I know literally nothing about pet nutrition so yeah I am serious. Why wouldn't human food be better? I am not going to cook it (though I guess canned tuna is cooked) or mix it with spices or anything, just give it to them raw. I am a bit confused how good quality meat and fish could be worse for them than the foul smelling poo poo that comes out of cat food cans :P
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Dec 10, 2013 06:35
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fuckpot posted:Well I know literally nothing about pet nutrition so yeah I am serious. Why wouldn't human food be better? I am not going to cook it (though I guess canned tuna is cooked) or mix it with spices or anything, just give it to them raw. I am a bit confused how good quality meat and fish could be worse for them than the foul smelling poo poo that comes out of cat food cans :P Because cats and humans are different species, and cats have very specific dietary needs. Just feed them high quality cat food.
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Dec 10, 2013 06:38
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Invalid Octopus posted:Because cats and humans are different species, and cats have very specific dietary needs. Just feed them high quality cat food. edit: got this website http://www.pawsforlife.com.au/cat-food?gclid=COCygtX5pLsCFQlZpQod-jQAoQ on google. Anything there that people know about?
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Dec 10, 2013 06:44
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fuckpot posted:I have three cats who are all old or getting old - 8, 9 and 14 years. Would it be beneficial to start feeding them human grade mince and human grade cans of tuna/salmon or is cat food just as good? They go nuts for the human stuff so I assume at the very least they really like it and it will make them happier, but are there health benefits as well? Surely human food is more nutritious? I plan to continue feeding them their usual dry food as well because I guess they need some sort of roughage in their diets. To further elaborate on what previous posters have said... Basically, mince and cans of tuna, though very yummy, are not nutritionally balanced. Assuming no health problems, adding some to the diet - and I don't recommend more than 10% of a diet come from non-balanced sources - probably wouldn't hurt at all. The biggest issue I have with unbalanced cat nutrition (so a diet primarily of unbalanced food or a diet that has >10% unbalanced components) boils down to taurine - that's a deficiency which can silently come up and potentially be fatal (there's many other deficiencies but that's the OHGOD one). It's an amino acid that, when not present in sufficient amounts, can lead to very nasty heart disease - people don't have to worry about it because our body makes it, but cats can't make it and have to eat it. Are there cats that do fine with unbalanced diets filled with all sorts of human food? Sure. Are there vets out there who use various internet recipes that have never been analyzed and have major  ramblings or huge internet boards with loads of anecdotes about how home-made raw/human grade food of whatever the heck you have in your fridge is great and the cats are all 30 years old? Probably. However, the chance is higher that those bad events will occur with unbalanced diets.Now, that's all assuming no underlying disease. In your 14 year old cat, there is a good chance that they may have some sort of chronic kidney disease - it can be early and not very visibly clinical, though if specific tests run, could be found. Higher protein diets aren't good for kidney disease as the kidneys handle removal of the waste products that are created when lots of protein is eaten. In terms of diets to choose, you could check the Nutrition Thread, and if the OP doesn't have diets that will work for you, pose the question there if there's not a quick answer here. Edit: oops, didn't see the link. I'm in the USA, so on that list I'd reach for the Taste of the Wild. I've heard good things about Ziwipeak from some posters here in the nutrition thread, so you can give that a go. If I remember right, Felidae is the cat version of Candidae, which is also a fine food. Next edit: Slugworth posted:Hopefully some of our vets and vets in training are reading this thread... This post is like, WORDS, but I figure the more info the better. The only thing I can think of for the shivering is some sort of discomfort, as it sounds positional. It would be odd for this to pop on a week after the hoof incident and be related, but stranger things have happened. Pancreatitis, which can be painful, usually causes decreased appetite or vomiting, and diarrhea. If the cow hoof had done significant damage to the intestines, she'd be a lot sicker. Maybe there are other smaller pieces not causing full obstruction, but somewhat sub-clinical partial obstructions? Maybe she hurt something elsewhere (like mouth or teeth) while chewing these things and it's painful? I'm not a fan of intestinal wall measurements on radiographs (overall size is a different matter) I prefer ultrasound instead. Is that something you and your vet have discussed or is that not in the cards yet? HelloSailorSign fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Dec 10, 2013 |
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Dec 10, 2013 08:04
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HelloSailorSign posted:I'm not a fan of intestinal wall measurements on radiographs (overall size is a different matter) I prefer ultrasound instead. Is that something you and your vet have discussed or is that not in the cards yet?
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Dec 10, 2013 17:08
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If you're really set on feeding your cats homemade stuff, go to Balanceit.com and get the supplement that you sprinkle over the meat. The website creates a recipe for you, but you'll probably need a scale to weigh everything.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:03
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Eegah posted:But how much does it cost? Neither my vet or I are convinced it's a food allergy. When I looked into it a few years ago, I think it was $120ish at cost, so probably 20% or so onto that + whatever it costs to pull blood at your vet's.
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Dec 11, 2013 06:05
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Oh that's not bad then -- $200 or $250 would totally be worth not having to put up with the hassle of a food trial that may or may not work. Hell given the extra cost for a novel protein I wouldn't be saving money anyway. Tater's on the mend (thank god -- he's building up a tolerance to Benadryl) but next time the hotspot beast rears its ugly head I think I'll go that route first. Thanks.
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Dec 11, 2013 06:10
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Carnival Rider Lucille Ball mini-dachshund extraordinaire sends you good thoughts. She had spinal surgery in 2007, at the age of 3, and is still rocking and rolling. She walks like a drunken sorority girl missing a heel, and sometimes needs to be expressed, but she walks! My best advice to you is to be very vigilant about following the crate rest and steroids (I assume) your vet will prescribe. If you don't already crate, it may seem cruel, but the healing process requires rest, minimal movement, and as much reduction of swelling as possible. And try not to sweat the statistics! I didn't find out until after the fact, but the vet told my mother Lucie only had a 5% chance of coming out of surgery alive, let alone walking. So there is hope. Here she is hating to wear clothes: 
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Dec 11, 2013 07:41
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Day 2 update. I know it's been less than 42 hours since the surgery and it's normal that the little guy can't walk but it still kills me to see him like that. The vet called and asked us to come in and try to feed him. I'm thinking he's just nauseous, sometimes he thinks food is too good and you're hiding a treat in it. At that point you have to mash it up and show him there isn't a pill in there. He threw up and hasn't been eating much for them and he didn't eat more than a mouthful of food yesterday when we fed him. They say he likes the chicken they have and we have a load of things that he likes to try again today. The vet says that they're noticing more tension in his muscles and I know they wouldn't lie (they have a lot of experience with back surgery and the German military sends working dogs to these guys) but I didn't really notice anything. We're still hopeful though. Our other dog, a dachshund-corgi mix normally tolerates the dude but she is very nervous about him missing. I had to hand feed her breakfast and give her a little bit of her dinner. It's nice to know she cares about him, I guess but I hate seeing both of my dogs like this. Here's hoping for better news in 3 hours or so when they call.
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Dec 11, 2013 09:48
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You have a dachshund-corgi mix and the OTHER dog blew out discs? (it's fairly common in dogs like shih tzu too but man) Hope that your pup continues to recover well. In my experience it's pretty common for these dogs (even the ones we consider to be recovering very well) to truck along for a little while with very subtle, gradual improvements only noticeable on neurologic exam before we start seeing really noticeable results (usually those milestones are urinating on their own, supporting weight on their own, walking with a lot of support, rising on their own, etc), but once those milestones start coming it's a good sign. The good thing is with surgery you can start passive range of motion physical therapy stuff a little earlier on in the healing process than you can if you go the conservative route and treat with cage rest + pain management. You will still need to cage rest with surgery, though. You can (and should) check out https://www.dodgerslist.com for more information about IVDD. There's an excellent support network and a lot of good information there. Mostly geared towards doxies since they're most commonly affected but the information applies to your dog's case too. Crooked Booty posted:Topoisomerase is Fixed.... Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 16:22
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I'll bet this actually does have a thread somewhere, but dog people- what are your favorite tricks to keep a dog entertained and happy for a prolonged period of alone time? With my girlfriend out of town for the holidays I have a poor little corgi that's going to be home by himself for 12 hours at a time during the week (I work 10-hour shifts 45 minutes away, I'm looking into daycare but my commute is already stretching it without packing him up each morning and dropping him off). Obviously I'm going to give him a hefty walk each morning and evening, and I used to run with him which I hope to start up again, but during the day what kinds of toys or distractions do you like? A long time ago I used to dog-sit for a family that left a radio on low for their dog so he could hear voices and not feel too lonely, do you think he might like that?
C-Euro fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Dec 12, 2013 |
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Dec 12, 2013 05:55
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C-Euro posted:I'll bet this actually does have a thread somewhere, but dog people- what are your favorite tricks to keep a dog entertained and happy for a prolonged period of alone time? With my girlfriend out of town for the holidays I have a poor little corgi that's going to be home by himself for 12 hours at a time during the week (I work 10-hour shifts 45 minutes away, I'm looking into daycare but my commute is already stretching it without packing him up each morning and dropping him off). Obviously I'm going to give him a hefty walk each morning and evening, and I used to run with him which I hope to start up again, but during the day what kinds of toys or distractions do you like? A long time ago I used to dog-sit for a family that left a radio on low for their dog so he wouldn't feel too lonely, do you think he might like that? I'm not sure whether dogs actually care about radios and TVs left on for them. I usually leave mine with antlers and hooves around the house. They seem to just sleep all day though. Do you think you could find a dog walker to stop by and take him out during your shift?
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Dec 12, 2013 06:10
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A lot of people recommend a kong with some peanut butter inside, frozen. It takes the dog a while to get the pb out :]
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Dec 12, 2013 14:00
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What kind of dog is this? We've had him for almost a decade now, but we don't know for sure what he is... I've always thought he was a Chihuahua/Jack Russel mix, but maybe he's something else?   He's pretty small, about 14ish pounds.
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Dec 13, 2013 19:28
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zenintrude posted:What kind of dog is this? We've had him for almost a decade now, but we don't know for sure what he is... I've always thought he was a Chihuahua/Jack Russel mix, but maybe he's something else? Your guess seems pretty accurate. Hard to say for sure though.
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Dec 13, 2013 23:39
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Any recommendations for a diaper solution for an older dog? My 15-year-old Maltese mix has been having accidents far more regularly than usual, probably partly due to the fact that she's not "concentrating her urine" as much as she should these day, according to the vet. I take her out all the time, but she's still going inside some. Just want a solution to catch the accidents since she only bothers to tell me she needs to go out about 50% of the time.
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Dec 14, 2013 09:56
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9YoWhykMyo I've caught 8 of these little monsters in my trash overnight using the deep-recycling-bin-under-the-cupboard-mounted-trash-that-they-have-no-choice-but-to-drop-into-when-they-panic-and-bolt method. EIGHT. I was happily releasing them in the park a few blocks away until I came home from releasing the most recent one only to find the frozen (sitting up, looking quite alive) body of an earlier release (it's been approx -25°C the past few days) only 20' away. Who knew having no body fat and a thimble full of blood circulating while having the heat sapped out of their bellies in contact with the ground could prove fatal? Seriously, though. What a horrible way to go. I can't release them in this cold but they can't stay in the house. I see I can anesthetize and euthanize the entire lot humanely and easy as pie with COČ, but checking with Praxair and AirLiquide a block of dry ice (located in some public-transit-inaccessible remote industrial park) will run me $30-40. Yeah, no, that'll put me out in the cold next month when I can't pay my rent because I tried to be nice. I read that that old science fair volcano standby - baking soda and vinegar - cranks out a good volume of COČ but there doesn't seem to be a means of regulating the concentration and 100% carbon dioxide is apparently a terrifying suffocating sensation. Has anyone ever used this method to gas rodents to sleep? Is there another (cheap, also less messy/expandy/foamy) way to generate a sufficient amount of carbon dioxide to put them down gently? I wish I had other options than killing them for simply getting caught doing natural mouse things, but 8 of them in less than a day is clearly an infestation and they have to go lest they breed more. They are cute as a button up close, it's a shame they're about to have a bad Christmas one way or another. In short, how do I gas a bunch of mouse invaders with CO2 humanely (slow increase of CO2 concentration) and on the cheap?
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Dec 14, 2013 16:13
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Parpy posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9YoWhykMyo You are way overthinking this. Just buy those snapping mousetraps. It breaks their neck and kills them instantly. Plus, they're cheap and great at actually catching the mice so you don't have to expose yourself to whatever kind of vermin or diseases they're carrying. Put them in dark corners and cabinets where mice lurk. I guarantee if you've caught 8 so far, there are tons more in the walls and you will not be able to catch them all in your trash bin.
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Dec 14, 2013 23:25
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Serella posted:You are way overthinking this. Just buy those snapping mousetraps. It breaks their neck and kills them instantly. Plus, they're cheap and great at actually catching the mice so you don't have to expose yourself to whatever kind of vermin or diseases they're carrying. Put them in dark corners and cabinets where mice lurk. I guarantee if you've caught 8 so far, there are tons more in the walls and you will not be able to catch them all in your trash bin. Agreed. Peanut butter is good bait.
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Dec 15, 2013 00:38
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We've been having some issues with mice as well (not that bad, thankfully. We've caught maybe 8 over the last few weeks) but we got kill traps that aren't as visual as the snap traps. My fiance has ~feelz~ and doesn't want to see the dead mice, so these kill them inside and you just toss the trap. Now that I think about it you said you didn't want to spend $30-40 and having to throw traps away instead of reusing them seems kind of like a waste. Maybe not the best solution for you, sorry.
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Dec 15, 2013 01:08
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These are the best snap traps in my experience. They're covered so you don't have to see the smushed mouse and curious pets can't get their faces in there but re-usable and effective. The entrance makes sure the mouse is lined up to get snapped correctly so it dies immediately and doesn't suffer. I use peanut butter or easy cheese as bait. If you want to catch them and gas them this page has instructions on how to do it in a humane way using baking soda and vinegar and a home made contraption to make sure you aren't gassing them too quickly.
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Dec 15, 2013 01:30
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Whatever you do, don't get glue traps.
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Dec 15, 2013 04:11
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I'm not sure I would consider CO2 a humane way to do it but its probably the cheapest. Nitrogen asphyxiation should be asymptomatic and painless since we've only evolved a response to CO2, but on the other hand if your little set up begins leaking vast amounts of nitrogen that would become problematic.
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Dec 16, 2013 13:48
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My parents own a chow mix who is getting up in the years. Recently she's had some health problems, one of which I believe has something to do with dehydration. To treat the condition my parents give the dog 400cc of saline solution under her skin every 3 days. The process they use to administer the medicine involves using a standard IV bag and inserting the needle into a scrunch of skin (subcuntaeously), but this process sometimes has to be repeated many times because the needle falls out due to the dog squirming around. I feel that there might be another method to administering the IV solution and am wondering if anyone has any insight. Some veterinary tutorials I've found online (this is apparently a common condition/procedure for older dogs) involve using a large volume lock-tip syringe. I've tried to find some syringes that can hold 400cc of fluid but haven't had much luck. If anyone could point me in the right direction for finding one of these or has other ideas on how to make this procedure easier I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
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Dec 18, 2013 18:10
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tehschulman posted:My parents own a chow mix who is getting up in the years. Recently she's had some health problems, one of which I believe has something to do with dehydration. The biggest syringes I've seen are 60cc. If he's wiggly, a syringe won't be much easier because there will be times when he moves and gets stabbed harder/deeper on the needle and syringe since they won't move as flexibly as the IV line. How is it coming out? Do they hold on to the line/needle while the fluids are running? If they grasp the line near where the needle goes into the skin, along with some of the hair, they should be able to make sure the whole set-up moves with the dog if he moves.
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Dec 18, 2013 18:15
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Generally my mom will gently hold the dog down while my dad holds the IV bag and squeezes the fluid into the line. They don't let the fluid drip over time, 400cc would take a while to administer. Instead they rush the saline solution by squeezing the bag like a tube of toothpaste (maybe takes 5 minutes to give the dog 400cc). They don't want to restrain her too tightly because they're afraid they might hurt the dog's joints and legs, but she'll roll over or try and scratch at the needle and this is when most of the problems come from when administering. I don't think inserting the syringe directly would be the way to go, but I saw this kind of setup on one of the tutorials I read:  The problem with that method though is finding a syringe that can hold the right volume. I've found some 400cc syringes using Google but many of them don't have lock tips or they seem to be geared towards other purposes (enemas).
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Dec 18, 2013 19:20
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tehschulman posted:Generally my mom will gently hold the dog down while my dad holds the IV bag and squeezes the fluid into the line. They don't let the fluid drip over time, 400cc would take a while to administer. Instead they rush the saline solution by squeezing the bag like a tube of toothpaste (maybe takes 5 minutes to give the dog 400cc). They don't want to restrain her too tightly because they're afraid they might hurt the dog's joints and legs, but she'll roll over or try and scratch at the needle and this is when most of the problems come from when administering. I don't have any great advice but I feel you. I did it with a syringe/butterfly catheter on teeny tiny kittens (so I only needed a tiny bit) and they were easily restrained and it was still awful. It's not that uncommon a procedure though, I'm sure there's resources out there. The good news is that those needles are small, and as long as your parents are putting a new one on nearly every time they have to poke the dog, it's probably not very painful. If you're nervous about it you can steal one of the clean needles and test it on your own loose skin if it'll help your brain. Actually, nevermind, definitely don't use veterinary needles on yourself.
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Dec 18, 2013 19:59
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InEscape posted:I don't have any great advice but I feel you. I did it with a syringe/butterfly catheter on teeny tiny kittens (so I only needed a tiny bit) and they were easily restrained and it was still awful. It's not that uncommon a procedure though, I'm sure there's resources out there. The good news is that those needles are small, and as long as your parents are putting a new one on nearly every time they have to poke the dog, it's probably not very painful. If you're nervous about it you can steal one of the clean needles and test it on your own loose skin if it'll help your brain. Actually, nevermind, definitely don't use veterinary needles on yourself. They're the same as any other needles. It's not like animals get less sterile equipment. If the dog is rolling and scratching the needle out, a syringe set-up won't help that. Your parents are going to have to figure out how to restrain the dog more effectively so they can't roll. An arm hugging her around her neck and one under her abdomen should help keep her from rolling over, and make her feel like she's being hugged more than restrained. In that position there shouldn't be much pressure on her legs or hips, but you may have to be careful if she has neck pain.
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Dec 18, 2013 20:15
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Does anyone have experience with allergen-minimizing pillowcases like these? My cat's hair clumps on my pillows, and I'm pretty sure it aggravates my sinuses in my sleep. Are there any products y'all would recommend for dealing with animal hair on a bed? Apologies if I missed this being discussed somewhere.
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Dec 19, 2013 07:27
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Van Dis posted:Does anyone have experience with allergen-minimizing pillowcases like these? My cat's hair clumps on my pillows, and I'm pretty sure it aggravates my sinuses in my sleep. Are there any products y'all would recommend for dealing with animal hair on a bed? Apologies if I missed this being discussed somewhere. It looks like that is designed to protect the pillow, but it's not going to keep cat hair off the pillowcase or bed. If the fur is aggravating your sinuses, I'd recommend not letting him in your bedroom. My fiance is mildly allergic, so that's our solution. You'll feel much better if you're bedroom is a mostly cat-hair free zone.
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Dec 19, 2013 16:37
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Thanks, but the cat is definitely gonna continue to be allowed in the bedroom. What I'm looking for, which I grant may not exist, is any sort of bed stuff that in any way ameliorates the cat hair issue.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:37
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Van Dis posted:Thanks, but the cat is definitely gonna continue to be allowed in the bedroom. What I'm looking for, which I grant may not exist, is any sort of bed stuff that in any way ameliorates the cat hair issue. You could remove the cat hair every night before you sleep, by vacuuming or using a lint roller. There are no bed sheets that are going to magically repel cat hair. That allergen cover is for people with dust mite allergies; all it does is contain the dust mites within the pillowcase. You could take an allergy pill before going to sleep, I guess. Benedryl works well if you're going to bed anyway.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:58
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When does the cat get the hair on your pillow? Do they sleep around your head every night? During the day when you're not around? If during the day when you're not around, close the bedroom door then or get a cheap blanket to put over the pillow/head-side of the bed to catch the hair and pull it off at night when its time to sleep.
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Dec 19, 2013 19:59
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