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the spyder posted:Reposting this here: Zoro Tools is offering 30% off on Cyber Monday. Deal is going on right now. Last chance!
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Dec 3, 2013 00:31
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djent posted:Unfortunately even if you are wearing safety glasses things can still make it into your eyes. I've taken several of my ironworkers off the bridge and to the eye doctor after wind blew metal shavings into their eyes. Fortunately the doc knows his business and takes the offending bit of steel out no problem. Are you using the foam debris-blocker style or just normal ones?
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Dec 3, 2013 18:10
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Gonna cross-post this here: Since this time last year, I've been looking for a good way to make an extension cord with inline outlets along its length for optimal christmas light installation. I just found this product on mcmaster-carr, which is exactly what I want but not customized to my needs:  I still can't find just the inline outlet portion anywhere. Does anyone know where I can source such a thing like I would a normal plug/receptacle end? I don't see why this is apparently such an exotic part.
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Dec 5, 2013 04:55
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Cube tap or triple tap maybe? http://www.filmtools.com/gripdept/electrical/3to1cubtapea.html http://www.filmtools.com/gripdept/electrical/prime-triple-tap-90-degree-yellow.html
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Dec 5, 2013 05:53
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That's an option but then I've really just got a bunch of extension cords plugged into each other. The goal is to have one monolithic cord with outlets located strategically along its length to ease installation and setup each year.
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Dec 5, 2013 06:01
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Bad Munki posted:Gonna cross-post this here: I have only ever seen those as injection molded pieces- at least when I was researching doing the same thing ~3 years ago. If you find some, let me know. Otherwise I built a rather overkill setup using outdoor boxes, GFCI + duplex outlets, and SOOW 14/3.
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Dec 5, 2013 12:24
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 I have seen some with cutouts on both sides for an in and out, but you can always make your own cutout with a dremel or file or something if the ones you buy doesn't. Edit: My google-fu is unmatched http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-in-line-outlets-to-110v-appliance-power-cord/ http://www.beckelectric.com/store/pc/OUTLET-IN-LINE-10AMP-FEMALE-BROWN-2609B-BU-351p407.htm http://www.grandbrass.com/catalog.cfm?category=Outlets&subcategory=All http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/p/In-Line-Outlet-Brown-Polarized-Indoor-Use-Only--19647.htm iForge fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Dec 6, 2013 |
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Dec 6, 2013 03:35
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Here is the one millionth question about cordless power tools: I'm a homeowner, building cabinets and a workbench in the garage, and probably going to do a few decks and fences, and maybe some roofing to help out friends and family. Not a professional, but I'm busy so I'd like long battery life and tools that will last more than 2 or 3 years. I'm being given power tools for my birthday. I was originally looking at Dewalt 20V MAX drill combo packs. They seem pretty popular and good quality, but now I'm intrigued by Milwaukee. They just have so many good tools and neat options. And their quality seems really good. So now I'm kind of curious - for my main two cordless tools, the drill/driver and recip, I'd like to get Fuel tools for the longevity and efficiency. Is it worth it to get M18? Or is M12 still worth it? How much battery life and power do you gain by going to 18v? I'm also tempted by M12 because I could get my wife an M12 jacket and she'd probably love me forever.
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Dec 12, 2013 09:29
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I'd get the Milwaukee M12. I'm about all the way through modeling a trailer home and used a bosch 12v sawzall, impact, and drill. Never had any lack of power and the Milwaukee tool options would be nice. Plan on having 3 batteries if you want to continue working pretty heavily otherwise get plug in tools.
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Dec 12, 2013 13:54
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Whats the difference between the M12 and M12 FUEL?
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Dec 12, 2013 16:16
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^^ Fuel are brushless. How much did you use the impact? I've always done everything with a drill/driver and I feel like the impact is a bit superfluous. I'll have multiple batteries anyways, but if the M18 gives me substantial battery life improvement, I'd rather be changing them less.
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Dec 12, 2013 20:05
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Don't buy from CPO tools. I picked up a M18 Fuel Sawzall from them. I get it, and the battery is already fully charged and it is missing the saw blade. I emailed them about it, and a couple days later they just say " Oh, Milwaukee probably shipped it out charged." with no mention about the missing saw blade. New batteries are supposed to come uncharged. I should have just paid the 26 bucks Home Depot wanted in sales tax from their website.
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Dec 12, 2013 22:04
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Those blades are literally like $2 and are consumable items... and I don't know what kind of lithium ion batteries you've dealt with in the past, but I've never had a lithium ion pack ship to me uncharged. In fact leaving them uncharged below a certain limit can damage the pack, which is why the charge controller shuts you down before you fully drain the battery in your phone or cordless tool.
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Dec 12, 2013 22:35
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Holy gently caress! Just went to the Milwaukee Factory Refurb sale and got an M18 Fuel Hammer Drill/driver with two xc4.0 batteries, m12 hackzall kit and m12 multitool for $350. Home Depot value is like $750. Yes, they're refurbs so it's only a 1 year warranty but goddamn!
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Dec 13, 2013 01:05
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kastein posted:Those blades are literally like $2 and are consumable items... and I don't know what kind of lithium ion batteries you've dealt with in the past, but I've never had a lithium ion pack ship to me uncharged. In fact leaving them uncharged below a certain limit can damage the pack, which is why the charge controller shuts you down before you fully drain the battery in your phone or cordless tool. The manual says on the cover "new batteries must be charged before first use" v  v. Nothing about " oh hey , went ahead and charged that for ya". The product says it comes with a blade, it was not there. That they are expendable sounds like an excuse to me and dodges that A: advertised product was missing and B: customer support completly ignored my email about it.
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Dec 13, 2013 02:03
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Johnny Aztec posted:The manual says on the cover "new batteries must be charged before first use" v I've always seen the batteries come charged (at least partially). Lithium batteries last longest at partial charge, so this makes sense. The blade is what it is. And all that stuff about "charge fully before use" is from way back in the Nicad days. Doesn't apply to lithium. DrakeriderCa posted:Holy gently caress! Just went to the Milwaukee Factory Refurb sale and got an M18 Fuel Hammer Drill/driver with two xc4.0 batteries, m12 hackzall kit and m12 multitool for $350. Home Depot value is like $750. Yes, they're refurbs so it's only a 1 year warranty but goddamn! Nice deal. Super Waffle posted:Whats the difference between the M12 and M12 FUEL? As said it means the tool has a brushless motor (which makes a big difference in power/battery life). It still uses the same battery.
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Dec 13, 2013 02:29
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Johnny Aztec posted:The manual says on the cover "new batteries must be charged before first use" v Probably boilerplate like the other guy said but yeah they are shipped at least partially charged. I really think you are blowing things completely out of proportion on the missing blade thing. I don't even use the included blade usually because they are poo poo and only there for the same reason people include a soggy pickle with a serving of fish and chips. Every time I have bothered or been desperate enough to attempt using it, I have been disappointed. Not saying they were right, just that you are being ridiculous caring about it so much, it's like pitching a fit because the cashier didn't give you your 2 cents change on a $49.98 purchase.
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Dec 13, 2013 04:39
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Johnny Aztec posted:Don't buy from CPO tools. I picked up a M18 Fuel Sawzall from them. I get it, and the battery is already fully charged and it is missing the saw blade. The missing saw blade is probably a harmless mistake, and as several people have said the batteries are always going to be charged out of the box. Lithium batteries will be permanently damaged if they are fully discharged (this is why they cut off suddenly) and they hold a charge for an extremely long time (months to years) so it is in no way unexpected that you'd get a charged battery. Even five minutes of charging at the factory for testing is enough to give you full power. What are you so concerned about anyway, other than the $3 blade? Does the tool work or not?
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Dec 13, 2013 05:03
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Johnny Aztec posted:Don't buy from CPO tools. I picked up a M18 Fuel Sawzall from them. I get it, and the battery is already fully charged and it is missing the saw blade. I've bought a bunch of Dewalt cordless from CPO Tools and they always have come sealed and looking brand new. Smart batteries always come with a charge as a battery with no charge at all will usually come up as faulty in a charger.
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Dec 13, 2013 05:16
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DrakeriderCa posted:^^ Fuel are brushless. I've always been in the "what the gently caress do I need an impact for?" crowd until I got one. Now that I have one, every stuck bolt is a lot easier to remove. I was removing some torx bolts off my roof rack to move some stuff around. Well the roof rack bolts hadn't ever been removed in over 12 years. That many years with a ton of different temperature changes, the bolts are almost impossible to remove with just a hand torx driver. After using my impact driver, it took zero time to remove those frozen bolts.
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Dec 13, 2013 09:28
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I'd rather have an impact than a drill unless i'm drilling.
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Dec 13, 2013 13:33
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Christobevii3 posted:I'd rather have an impact than a drill unless i'm drilling. Or unless you're putting together Ikea furniture at night in an apartment complex.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:07
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Or unless you're putting together Ikea furniture at night in an apartment complex. Apparently somebody has never lived in the 'hood.
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Dec 13, 2013 20:38
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I own an impact (an ingersoll rand 231c, I was told it was excellent) and the loving thing is useless. Even with the regulator turned up to 150psi it makes a better hammer than bolt remover. I got that poo poo to break axle and lug nuts loose and it does neither, even on the highest setting. You know what does? A $20 harbor freight 3/4" breaker bar and four feet of steel pipe. I have spun fully loaded tires on dirt with the breaker bar and cheater pipe before when the axle nut was too rusted. In fact if anyone in central mass wants to buy my air impact for $50, be my guest, they sell new for $130. I have no use for it except as 6lbs of ballast in my toolbag.
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Dec 13, 2013 22:15
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So Christmas is coming up and my mother has been bugging me for what I want as a gift. I don't have the room or budget for what I really want, a table saw, so I figured I would spring for a good circular saw. I figure with a circular saw, some saw horses, and a long straight edge I can at least make a few things like boxes and small furniture. Anyone got recommendations?
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Dec 14, 2013 00:45
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Colonel Sanders posted:Apparently somebody has never lived in the 'hood. Does livin' in da' 'hood mean you have really nice neighbors that are understanding about the occasional bit of noise at night? Because, I swear, downtown folks will cut you for making noise after 9.
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Dec 14, 2013 02:41
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Christobevii3 posted:I'd rather have an impact than a drill unless i'm drilling. Or if you need the clutch to limit torque. I tried the impact with pocket screws into pine and stripped out 1 of 1. That was my last time trying that.
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Dec 14, 2013 03:15
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Does livin' in da' 'hood mean you have really nice neighbors that are understanding about the occasional bit of noise at night? Because, I swear, downtown folks will cut you for making noise after 9. No, seriously when people start smoking blunts and 40's at 3am and making flows you could run a loving table saw. Those people don't call the cops or say anything if they see one.
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Dec 14, 2013 06:24
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asdf32 posted:Or if you need the clutch to limit torque. I tried the impact with pocket screws into pine and stripped out 1 of 1. That was my last time trying that. New impacts now have multiple drive modes; not a clutch but still works. I have an M12 Fuel impact and really like the two drives
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Dec 14, 2013 06:28
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kastein posted:I own an impact (an ingersoll rand 231c, I was told it was excellent) and the loving thing is useless. Even with the regulator turned up to 150psi it makes a better hammer than bolt remover. I'll buy it. Dead serious.
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Dec 14, 2013 15:44
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kastein posted:I own an impact (an ingersoll rand 231c, I was told it was excellent) and the loving thing is useless. Even with the regulator turned up to 150psi it makes a better hammer than bolt remover. I'm pretty sure you're doing something seriously wrong with that Ingersoll. On the other hand, I don't doubt you're doing everything right with a massive breaker-bar. Just admit it, you're a loving gorilla. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 14:42
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^ with a big enough lever you don't need to actually be a gorilla, I work smarter not harder unless I have to  the pipe plus breaker ends up being around 5 feet long. That makes the ~350-400lbs I can exert if properly braced into a truly ludicrous amount of torque. The funny thing is it gives me better control, instead of just having to go full hulk mode on something and hope it pops before the tool does, I can actually feel the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter start acting like a stick of butter instead of tool steel and think to myself "I still need this for 3 other bolts, they are smaller, maybe I should back off and undo those before breaking it on this one."sharkytm posted:I'll buy it. Dead serious. OK! You should probably try it out before actually handing over money, but it has your name on it. I took it out to try it for the first time in 2 years last summer when I had a rusty axle nut break my old breaker bar, and it made a great noisemaker and hand massager but that is about it. That and a few other nuts and bolts that similarly defeat it are all I got it for, so it is time for it to stop wasting space. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 15:39
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kastein posted:..the pipe plus breaker ends up being around 5 feet long. That makes the ~350-400lbs I can exert if properly braced into a truly ludicrous amount of torque. Hulk-Gorilla spotted. What normal people use to break bolts loose is impact with a reasonable amount of torque. 400 foot pounds is Bigfoot-levels of torque when applied to a car. If we translate that torque to human units, it's almost 550 Nm. What's your daily budget for helicoils and do you smash them in the bleeding engine holes with a sledgehammer? I'm honestly a tad impressed.
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Dec 15, 2013 16:00
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400 is "I have absolutely no control and am hauling upwards on a wrench as hard as I can with a running start using my legs" not what I can do with any reasonable amount of finesse Generally, rusty axle nuts, very stuck lug nuts of the 1.5" semi truck/military truck variety, crank bolts, and 14mm suspension bolts that have been unturned for 25+ years while being blasted yearly with salt water. I've had 10.9 class 14mm bolts twist off before, makes a hell of a bang. Aside from crank pulley bolts nothing on an engine requires anywhere near that much torque. Most of the bruteforce stuff is coming off, not going in. I removed a 1 5/16" differential pinion nut tightened to 230 ft lbs and then rusted in place for a decade lazily with one arm the other day. How, you ask? 5 feet of leverage. It was probably around 350 to break loose if I had to guess, that works out to about 70lbs actual force I had to apply that is another nut I got the impact for and it wouldn't even come close so I didn't bother to try.Archimedes was right, with a long enough lever you can move anything. E: if you want actual gorilla poo poo, I was using my 8lb hand sledge one handed on a chisel yesterday at the junkyard. I need to get some exercise because I couldn't control it as well as I would like. No one makes 8lb hand sledges and my 4lb wasn't cutting it so I ended up buying an 8lb fullsize and cutting the handle down. This is it in the middle of the picture next to my broken 4lb: 
kastein fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 16:03
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kastein posted:400 is "I have absolutely no control and am hauling upwards on a wrench as hard as I can with a running start using my legs" not what I can do with any reasonable amount of finesse Well, that's actually Pythagoras. Anyway, my wife, my kids and most of my friends consider me a pretty violent and old grumpy warmonger, but compared to what you accept as a reasonable amount of car-applied torque and violence, I probably need a gender-check. An Ingersoll Rand 231c is a fine tool, and I really hope sharkytm buys it and puts it to good use. kastein posted:This is it in the middle of the picture next to my broken 4lb: My holy loving Gods of war ;/ Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 16:35
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Just got an early Christmas present from a friend. Three handplanes. Left to Right: Stanley Bailey No.6 (smooth bottom), a "Handyman" brand (made in Canada), and a "Sargent" (made in USA)  I know that Stanley is well regarded, especially the older ones, but are the other two worth fixing up? Or are they brands that are just going to be more trouble than they are worth?
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Dec 15, 2013 18:45
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Sargent is a good brand. Handyman was the lowest Stanley line, people use them.
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Dec 15, 2013 19:05
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I'm going to have to make a new handle for the Sargent, and Might go ahead and do the same for the Stanley as well. Any recommendation on how to repaint the insides of them? I'd like them to look as close to stock as possible. Never mind, first result for "refinishing stanley plane" : http://www.majorpanic.com/handplane_restor1.htm Blistex fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 19:34
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dwoloz posted:New impacts now have multiple drive modes; not a clutch but still works. I have an M12 Fuel impact and really like the two drives Right that looks great actually but isn't the low settin like 300lb in? I think my 18v drill maxes out at 400 by comparison. Granted each hit is pretty small but there is definitely a place for a proper clutch. My right angle m12 drill is my primary all around drill/driver but its electric clutch can't be completely trusted (it takes a moment to react). Sometimes I switch up to the 18v drill just for the proper clutch.
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Dec 15, 2013 19:46
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Blistex posted:I know that Stanley is well regarded, especially the older ones, but are the other two worth fixing up? Or are they brands that are just going to be more trouble than they are worth? They're yours, why wouldn't you want to fix them? http://www.sargent-planes.com/ The "Handyman" is a Stanley.
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Dec 15, 2013 21:31
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