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TacoHavoc posted:You aren't hurting anything. How old is your battery? That click is likely your starter solenoid engaging. A borderline battery in the warm will act like this in colder temps. The battery was in there when I bought it 9 or so months ago, beyond that I have no idea. I got scared when I noticed the low coolant, like maybe something is seized in there due to the weather and I would do damage trying to "force it". A battery issue I can deal with though. It doesn't matter that I only hear 1 low clunky click and then nothing?
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Dec 13, 2013 16:24
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mutata posted:The battery was in there when I bought it 9 or so months ago, beyond that I have no idea. I got scared when I noticed the low coolant, like maybe something is seized in there due to the weather and I would do damage trying to "force it". Thats the sign of "gently caress your late for work". Or dead battery sound, you can make it up how you want, but its not hurting anything. But on the other hand, you should never lose coolant. Sounds like its time for the "BMW: GOD drat I GOTTA REPLACE ALL THIS COOLING SYSTEM poo poo".
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Dec 13, 2013 16:43
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Well I suppose it's a good thing I'll be getting a full-time job soon. I'll try to start it once it warms up a bit. I just drove the drat thing yesterday, sheesh. Thanks!
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Dec 13, 2013 16:45
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BMW's are fucky when it comes to battery voltage. The difference between a "click" and "crank vroom" on my 540 is about 0.1 volts. I suspect they have a low voltage cutoff in there that is very sharp and nonforgiving.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:09
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mutata posted:Well I suppose it's a good thing I'll be getting a full-time job soon. I'll try to start it once it warms up a bit. I just drove the drat thing yesterday, sheesh. There should be a sticker or something on the actual battery with the manufacture date/date it was delivered to the store it was bought from. If it's been over 3 years I'd have it tested at an auto parts store, it's probably due for a replacement. Alternatively, you could try and jump it if you have a friendly neighbor/roommate and cables.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:34
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Yep. Low voltage will do all sorts of interesting and crazy poo poo to the ECU/DME as well.
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Dec 13, 2013 17:35
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Ok, battery chat: I'm now getting nervous about the battery in my Z4MC which will probably be parked until April or so (whenever I'm certain all the drat salt is gone). Any experience with (ex.) Optima gel cells in modern BMWs? Feels like a bit of weight loss plus low self-discharge rate would be good here.
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Dec 13, 2013 18:14
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BMW uses AGM batteries in their cars, no reason why you cant.
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Dec 13, 2013 18:16
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sofullofhate posted:Ok, battery chat: I'm now getting nervous about the battery in my Z4MC which will probably be parked until April or so (whenever I'm certain all the drat salt is gone). Any experience with (ex.) Optima gel cells in modern BMWs? Feels like a bit of weight loss plus low self-discharge rate would be good here. Obviously if it needs a new battery it needs a new battery, but is there any reason you're not considering a battery tender instead of a new low self-discharge battery? Seems to make sense for your usage, especially if you plan on keeping/storing it over multiple winters and would probably allow you to keep the battery you have for another season unless it's on it's last legs.
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Dec 13, 2013 18:24
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Any neckbearded goons want a free (you pay shipping) leather 5 speed shift knob? It's an extra from my E46 that I used for a short while before upgrading to the ZHP knob.
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Dec 13, 2013 20:13
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Jonny 290 posted:BMW's are fucky New thread title!
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Dec 13, 2013 20:33
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Keyser S0ze posted:Any neckbearded goons want a free (you pay shipping) leather 5 speed shift knob? It's an extra from my E46 that I used for a short while before upgrading to the ZHP knob. Do these just screw on? I kind of want to buy an older BMW shift knob for my iracing set up. I just don't want to spend a bunch of money on one and it's some weird BMW thing.
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Dec 13, 2013 21:06
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It's this right here: https://www.getbmwparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=1073660&siteid=214672&catalogid=4462 http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/25117500299/ES47141/ ^^^lots of pics Allegedly they smash onto any BMW post 1982 or something, just with friction plastic rings holding it on. Go remove your old one and check it out...PULL UP VERY VERY VERY HARD. Don't smash your windshield out. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Dec 13, 2013 |
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Dec 13, 2013 21:09
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Ok, I need something that screws on. I'll look for things before 1982.
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Dec 13, 2013 21:18
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So I'm stuck between Ground Control and the Bilstein PSS9 coilovers. I'm leaning towards the GC setup because it comes with front camber plates, and I would have to spend an extra $330 for the plates on the Bilstein setup. I'm not really convinced I'll need camber plates cause I don't plan on changing it much from stock and I don't know enough to use them effectively at this point. So if I don't want camber plates I could go cheaper and get the PSS9s which are progressive spring rates and look to be easier to use. But on the other hand the GC is only a little more for the option to have the plates which I've heard will add an extra drop to the car and I am looking to get a more aggresive stance (no I'm not going to slam it...). Anyone have any strong opinions on camber plates?
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Dec 13, 2013 21:35
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Keyser S0ze posted:Any neckbearded goons want a free (you pay shipping) leather 5 speed shift knob? It's an extra from my E46 that I used for a short while before upgrading to the ZHP knob. I'd totally take this off your hands if Cojawfee doesn't want it! My M3 knob is starting to peel and is pretty faded. Shoot me an email and I can get you the money for shipping pwojciechows at gmail dot com
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Dec 13, 2013 21:37
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Popete posted:So I'm stuck between Ground Control and the Bilstein PSS9 coilovers. I'm leaning towards the GC setup because it comes with front camber plates, and I would have to spend an extra $330 for the plates on the Bilstein setup. I'm not really convinced I'll need camber plates cause I don't plan on changing it much from stock and I don't know enough to use them effectively at this point. Are you ever going to track or autoX it? If they answer is "yes", you absolutely need camber plates or you will destroy tires in short order. There's no trick to using them, set them at max positive camber for the street and max negative for events. If you're only street driving you don't need plates unless you have some sort of fitment issue with aftermarket wide and/or low offset wheels. PSS9 aren't a bad choice either - despite the progressive springs I have personally seen them work very well on e36s. But you are stuck with that rate. You can always add vorshlag plates at a later date.
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Dec 13, 2013 22:17
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Crustashio posted:Are you ever going to track or autoX it? If they answer is "yes", you absolutely need camber plates or you will destroy tires in short order. There's no trick to using them, set them at max positive camber for the street and max negative for events. If you're only street driving you don't need plates unless you have some sort of fitment issue with aftermarket wide and/or low offset wheels. There's no reason you'd want to run "max positive camber" on the street and switch it to "max negative camber" at the track. You'll completely gently caress up your toe by doing this. If you are going to drive it on the street and track, get an alignment at 2.5-4* of negative camber and whatever toe you want and leave it alone. Personally I'd recommend GC's over the bilstiens.
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Dec 13, 2013 22:24
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Yeah I just need to pull the trigger on the GC setup I know I'll feel better having the camber plates in the long run. I do plan on doing some auto-x for the first time this spring, I'm hoping to learn a lot more about suspension setups before than so I don't look like a complete buffoon.
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Dec 13, 2013 22:33
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Even if you don't get on the track, having nice coilovers is pretty awesome. I've yet to regret it on any car I've owned.
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Dec 13, 2013 22:38
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BraveUlysses posted:There's no reason you'd want to run "max positive camber" on the street and switch it to "max negative camber" at the track. You'll completely gently caress up your toe by doing this. If you are going to drive it on the street and track, get an alignment at 2.5-4* of negative camber and whatever toe you want and leave it alone. I align for zero toe on the street. E36s toe out as you increase camber and I want as much toe out as I can get for autoX. At the track the toe out has no real effect on tire wear or handling for me and autoX is a priority. So yes, I do exactly that...that's the whole point of plates. Otherwise you would just use shims on the 2 lower strut bolts for like 1/10th the cost. But then I wouldn't get the toe-out bonus, or I'd have to live with destroying tires because the e36 hates non-zero toe and camber. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Dec 13, 2013 |
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Dec 13, 2013 23:18
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You can tell yourself that all you want but camber plates are meant to give you full range of choosing how to align a suspension that is otherwise not adjustable. You can't use shims to give you 3.5* of camber.
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Dec 13, 2013 23:42
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BraveUlysses posted:You can tell yourself that all you want but camber plates are meant to give you full range of choosing how to align a suspension that is otherwise not adjustable. You can't use shims to give you 3.5* of camber. speak for yourself  
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Dec 13, 2013 23:45
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Powershift posted:speak for yourself That is loving terrifying 
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Dec 14, 2013 00:01
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Viper_3000 posted:Obviously if it needs a new battery it needs a new battery, but is there any reason you're not considering a battery tender instead of a new low self-discharge battery? Seems to make sense for your usage, especially if you plan on keeping/storing it over multiple winters and would probably allow you to keep the battery you have for another season unless it's on it's last legs. I love in an apartment. There is no outlet in the parkade. Unfortunately battery tenders are no good for me right now. 
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Dec 14, 2013 00:09
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I love wherever I can. Life's just too short, ya know? but really - no room in the apartment to just take out the battery and stick it in a corner? Powershift posted:speak for yourself Is that wood? televiper fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Dec 14, 2013 |
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Dec 14, 2013 00:22
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televiper posted:I love wherever I can. Life's just too short, ya know? There's a bolt sandwiched in between the frame and the control arm mount providing space, or at least that's what it looks like to me.
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Dec 14, 2013 00:24
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Beach Bum posted:There's a bolt sandwiched in between the frame and the control arm mount providing space, or at least that's what it looks like to me. oh god, you're right. At first all I saw was the spring being off its perch, then the wood(?) wheel well. Which were bad enough that it didn't occur to me to keep looking.
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Dec 14, 2013 00:28
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Beach Bum posted:That is loving terrifying Hey man, sometimes you gotta sacrifice a little ride comfort for that  drop.
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Dec 14, 2013 00:40
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Sad story, my friend 98 hellrot E36 M3 was rear ended and totaled out with due to buckling at the pillar. It had less than 95k miles  Good news! My friends totaled out M car has manual heated vaders and will be getting parted out so a new interior and other cool bits are in my future! 
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Dec 14, 2013 06:04
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Looking at lots of E36 pictures I'm seeing a LOT of people switching to electric fans. Is there a defacto guide on what to order/install/remove for a car that will be seeing autocross/track/street driving? The car is in storage now, but now that I've got all the parts I need for chassis reinforcement, I'm starting to look into cooling. Are oil pump nut issues still apparent in later E36s?
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Dec 14, 2013 16:45
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Clutch fan pull is super simple. Having just gone down a terrible road with my e39, I will suggest you buy one of the water pump wrench tools if you've never pulled the clutch fan off, to hold the pulley - it could be rusted on very well. Trying to cheese it by sticking screwdrivers and poo poo between the bolts just got me to buy a new pulley AND idler, vs the $20 wrench. You'll also need a 32mm open end wrench for the fan clutch nut. I just used a big crescent wrench, but you only have 1/2" or so of width between the pulley and fan, so you _might_ need a thinner one. IIRC people like to buy the 32mm bicycle wrenches for this to save a couple of bucks but I didn't need it. Other than that it's literally just unscrew the fan clutch with the fan attached(reverse threads), zip tie or anchor your new e-fan to the radiator, wire and go. Keep your mechanical fan and clutch around in case of emergency. The standard rule applies in your case due to autox/running it hard = new radiator, expansion tank, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat if you don't know for a fact they're pretty new. Wish I could speak to the oil pump nut issues, never heard of that honestly.
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Dec 14, 2013 16:52
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GDCS was replaced in '11 by a dealer paid by the original owner. Any word on a push/pull SPAL setup? Straight blade? Curve blade? CFM? Dual fan? Not entirely sure where to begin choosing/deciding.
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Dec 14, 2013 17:00
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I threw in a generic 14" ebay curved blade for $25 set up as a puller, and never had any issues that I could trace to any sort of fan weakness. Was ~3 years old and running fine at the time I totaled it. Just hardwired to a relay that was triggered off the fuel pump hot line.
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Dec 14, 2013 17:25
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Powershift posted:speak for yourself The gently caress. That poor poor car.  e: Ziploc posted:
SuperDucky fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Dec 14, 2013 |
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Dec 14, 2013 17:39
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Ziploc posted:Are oil pump nut issues still apparent in later E36s? Just do it. Why BMW didn't change the thread direction on that crucial part I will never know, with all the Superior German Engineering they claim to use.
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Dec 14, 2013 18:26
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Jonny 290 posted:Clutch fan pull is super simple. I had the opposite experience in my E46 because the PO's mechanic decided to torque down the nut when they reinstalled it after a thermostat replacement. A 4 ft long piece of some 1/4" steel that we cut into a fan clutch wrench didn't even give us enough leverage. After all that, my friend and I decided to just remove the fan blades from the fan clutch, then take the water pump out with the clutch still attached. Option B took 5 minutes. Just don't break any fan blades, or you'll be put in the awkward position of hoping that the temperature stays below 10F for the next day or two before an electric fan arrives.
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Dec 14, 2013 20:05
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The opportunity has come up to work in SE Asia for the next 12 to 18 months, which means I'd basically not get to drive the M3 for over half of the lease, so I'm thinking about selling it. I have no idea where to start from a pricing perspective. There are no 2013 M3s for sale used that I can find and the 2011-2012s seem to be priced all over the place. 2013 M3 coupe 12k miles 6 speed Jet black with black interior and carbon trim Premium Cold weather Convenience PDC 19" 220 wheels Any ideas? I hate the idea of paying on this the whole time I'm gone just to turn it in when I get home.
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Dec 14, 2013 21:20
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Happy time  2009 335i, auto, sports, cold weather, convenience, nav packages with option 19"s. Turns out when you buy a car from Carmax, they send you all the pictures they took of your new car before you bought it. Linking a few:      Loving every minute driving this so far. It's deceptively fast, definitely underrated from the factory numbers. A good pull gets you up to 100 before you realize it, when 2nd gear is rapping out to 70 and 3rd to 100 even. Scored a free year of satellite too because nobody ever bothered to activate it when it was brand new. Need's an ///M wheel and a JB4, thats about it. S.W.G. fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 21:29
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S.W.G. posted:Happy time I loved my 335, with exception for the HPFP issues (2x in 2500 miles of ownership.) I was also enjoying ownership before the days of AccessPort availability on that platform, I can't imagine the fun I would have today with an AP'd N54/N55 
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Dec 15, 2013 22:25
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