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JerryLee posted:Man, last time I checked, the goon hivemind thought Pledge was the poo poo (and I've always been pretty content with it before this). Future owns bones and most importantly one bottle will last practically a lifetime. It's also a really useful painting "tool"; I use it as a thinning medium/flow aid for GW paint, making my own washes and glazes, prepping models with a gloss coat before washing that way it's easier to "clean up" the wash without worrying about damaging the paint coat below it, coating the clear skimmer bases that way they're EXTRA clear, etc. Dullcote is great too but if I spend all week painting some models I'm gonna do everything I can to make sure the paint finish stays where it is. I've had "Dullcote only" models chip paint from things like an errant fingernail scrape and accidentally falling off some ruins onto the floor level. Pewter models chip like crazy without a hard acrylic gloss coat; I usually end up hitting pewter models with Future multiple times over the course of painting just because sometimes it seems like they chip for no reason at all. I've both brushed on and airbrushed Future and I did notice that if I just slopped on a really heavy coat with a brush the Future combined with the brush strokes starts to reconstitute paint a little bit but it always just ended up very slightly tinting my little pallet pool of Future, it didn't cause the wash to start streaking or getting completely pulled off the model itself. But this has only happened when I was going too heavy with the Future on some models that were painted with Minitaire Ghost Tint paint which doesn't really "play" the same as washes or normal water based acrylics. I suggest either using an airbrush or painting on thin coats and let them dry completely between layers. If your wash is like, completely melting off, you might have some bad wash or maybe Future and Didi's Magic Ink just don't play well together (this is my guess). Also just to make sure it is this that you're using right?  Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Dec 18, 2013 |
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Dec 17, 2013 23:50
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Yes, it is, or at least the same product (the bottle has changed since I bought it, I'm pretty sure). My current hypothesis is that, like you say, I got too sloppy with not thinning it enough or putting it on too heavily, so I'm whipping up some test models to check. I really hope it's not the didi's since I like the stuff otherwise. I'll report back.
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Dec 18, 2013 00:17
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JerryLee posted:Yes, it is, or at least the same product (the bottle has changed since I bought it, I'm pretty sure). My current hypothesis is that, like you say, I got too sloppy with not thinning it enough or putting it on too heavily, so I'm whipping up some test models to check. I really hope it's not the didi's since I like the stuff otherwise. I'll report back. Future definitely doesn't need to be thinned, it's already about as thin as it will get. I'm wondering if the Didi formula is similar to stuff like Magic Wash (which is basically just Future + Ink). You could probably start making your own ink washes out of Future if you were industrious enough to get some basic art supplies (ink and maybe matte medium) and look up a few tutorials. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Dec 18, 2013 |
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Dec 18, 2013 01:38
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Finished my vet squad tonight: Here's the whole squad:  It takes this many paints to do a squad of guardsmen:  A finished vet squad means I get to take a break from painting infantry and paint a Chimera, which I'll pick up tomorrow! Here's my old Chimera, which I think is a great looking tank:    
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Dec 18, 2013 05:28
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Normally I don't SRM-style and cross post this much but what the hey! I'm a bit proud. This is my alpha legion heldrake. The codex shows one but they had blue primary with green in the shadows. I think I like this better. Green dragon for the hydra legion.     Some Gifs to show fire:    I might go back and tear away the cotton and re-do it. I understand that smoke should widen as it spreads away from the source of the fire but I did not want to cover the heldrake too much. The batteries are hidden under some loose cotton at the back. Here is a shot of the batteries still WIP:  I only had a single wall of the fuselage from a storm raven so I used some saved credit card sized things for bulking it out. WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Dec 18, 2013 |
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Dec 18, 2013 05:31
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will blow your mind.
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That is absolutely outstanding and you should be proud.
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Dec 18, 2013 05:46
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I'm forever going to imagine that you've got a miniature that .GIF jiggles on the table.
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Dec 18, 2013 05:59
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I might go back and tear away the cotton and re-do it. I understand that smoke should widen as it spreads away from the source of the fire but I did not want to cover the heldrake too much. The batteries are hidden under some loose cotton at the back. If the 'drake is swooping just over the cloud as it rises it might swirl in the wake after?
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Dec 18, 2013 06:19
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New project! Local gaming shop has a contest going right now for holiday themed Warhammer 40K models. Now, my interest in Warhammer 40K extends purely into mocking the pauldrons, but I saw the Captain Master of the Marches, and I thought, "There's a guy checking to see who's naughty or nice. Or heretical." So, I picked up the model, and dug out a dwarf head from Dwarf King's Hold (which I'd picked up for cheap at a used bookstore). Then I set down to painting.  Basecoats were done with Reaper HD Turf Green and Brilliant Red, Reaper MSP Pure White and Walnut Brown, Vallejo Model Colors Glorious Gold, and Citadel Ushbati Bone. Done some basic shading on the larger areas of red and green. Gonna do a bit more, then use glazes of clear red and clear green to smooth out transitions. A few more bits need painting, like the leather bag at his side, and the relic/scroll/whatever it is by the book. Need to paint on some writing on the scrolls, then I'll use Citadel Agrax Earthshade to get them looking like old parchment. Once I have all that done, I'll move onto the next bit. Probably the head or the scroll. Other parts are his arms, the back thing, and the cherub.
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Dec 18, 2013 07:34
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Getting back into WarmaHordes (Circle) next week after a very long hiatus from gaming, and an even longer one from painting. I don't have any of my old supplies. Planning on doing a winter-ish grey / white / bright blue. Any advice on other colors I should grab? Here's what I'll be ordering... Not pictured is just a plain Skull White from Vallejo and a P3 Flesh color. I feel like I should be buying more. I'll grab flush cutters, glue and some green stuff at the local shop- discountgames seems to be out of everything  But yea, am I missing anything, do you guys think?
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Dec 18, 2013 15:45
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Normally I don't SRM-style and cross post this much but what the hey! I'm a bit proud. This is my alpha legion heldrake. The codex shows one but they had blue primary with green in the shadows. I think I like this better. Green dragon for the hydra legion.
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Dec 18, 2013 16:06
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It's cool watching painters get better over time in these threads, and WoM is a great example of it.
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Dec 18, 2013 16:32
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I have just put up part one of my review over the last year of miniatures based kickstarters, finding neat looking ones that may have slipped under the radar as the Repear and Mierce miniatures took over everyones attention. http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/kickstarter-2013-part-one.html Edit: Whoever decided to make some portions of the Kaladrax model out of super soft and flexible material is a giant turd. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 18, 2013 16:45
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Is the new GW crackle basing paint actually worth getting? The effect looks nice but I've been burned on their new line in the past. VVV: That's why I was asking. Making something that's actually useful? What the gently caress, GW? Pierzak fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 02:21
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Pierzak posted:Is the new GW crackle basing paint actually worth getting? The effect looks nice but I've been burned on their new line in the past. I am pretty happy with it. I know stuff GW puts out quickly is usually poo poo, but I slapped globs of this all over a terminator base and ended up with this.  Not bad for like 30 seconds of work.
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Dec 19, 2013 03:48
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 Finished with the body. The head's not actually attached yet, I just tossed it on to get a feel for how it looked. I've also finished the list, which has Nice, Naughty, and Heresy. Used a micron pen, since my freehand isn't up to anything like that fine of detail. Looks ugly, but it's the best I can do and still have it readable. Next part will be painting most of the head, except the top (where I plan to sculpt a santa hat). After that, it's the cherub, the back thingy, and his arms. Then basing. I've got some basius stamps, so I want to give one of them a go, see how they compare to Happy Seppuku stamps.
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Dec 19, 2013 04:49
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Khorne Flakes posted:
No, that looks really good!
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Dec 19, 2013 07:58
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Words This is Amazing! I love it! I may very well steal those color selections for my Lizardmen terradons (or whatever they call them). The one thing I'll do differently (or try to do; who knows if it'll work for sure) is to focus on making a gradient from the teal color to the purplish/blueish color with the blue on the back of the wings.
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Dec 19, 2013 08:05
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Any time I use a GW wash it leaves this really gross texture/finish on my miniatures. Is that normal?
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Dec 19, 2013 13:38
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^^^: Did you shake it up first? I've found the new washes tend to separate quite quickly and if used in that state don't really apply very well and leave behind a very glossy coat and the wash doesn't settle well in the recesses.Pierzak posted:Is the new GW crackle basing paint actually worth getting? The effect looks nice but I've been burned on their new line in the past. To echo what Khorne Flakes said, it's ridiculously easy to use and looks great for 30 seconds of effort! 
Fuegan fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 13:51
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Does anybody else make that paint? I've seen crackle paint in large containers but the sample images don't look as good as that.
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Dec 19, 2013 14:08
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Pierzak posted:VVV: That's why I was asking. Making something that's actually useful? What the gently caress, GW? Don't worry, if past record is anything to go by, they'll withdraw it in a year or two with an inferior product and tell us it's just the same if not a little better.
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Dec 19, 2013 14:21
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Fuegan posted:^^^: Did you shake it up first? I've found the new washes tend to separate quite quickly and if used in that state don't really apply very well and leave behind a very glossy coat and the wash doesn't settle well in the recesses. Yeah, and I've had the opposite result; it looks super matte and feels really chalky/talky to the touch.
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Dec 19, 2013 14:48
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:Yeah, and I've had the opposite result; it looks super matte and feels really chalky/talky to the touch.
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Dec 19, 2013 16:03
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:Yeah, and I've had the opposite result; it looks super matte and feels really chalky/talky to the touch. Your matte medium is separating from your paint. If you haven't been storing them inappropriately then your wash is bad.
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Dec 19, 2013 16:09
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The new Citadel Shades have done this to me before, but like it was said, a quick shake every time solves the problem. The older washes never seemed to do this though, another example of GW rushing out untested products.
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Dec 19, 2013 16:30
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I used to get that issue with the old Tin Bitz. Pain in the rear end. EDIT: Unrelated question. If I were to paint onto latex or silicone, say, a puppet, what sort of paint should I be using? Monster w21 Faces fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 17:28
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Monster w21 Faces posted:I used to get that issue with the old Tin Bitz. Pain in the rear end. If it's any consolation, I bought a pot of the equivalent of tin bitz from Coates d'arms (the original manufacturer of citadel paints) last year and comparing that new pot to the old citadel one I had 20 years ago.. its suffers the exact same problem. It's just a cursed colour or something. I give it a good hard stir with a toothpick everytime I need to use it 
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Dec 19, 2013 17:32
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I like sahring coo links every now and again: best thing, or BEST THING? http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?250907-Ogre-Maneaters&p=6944386&viewfull=1#post6944386 Indiana Jones ogre riding skull snake.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:44
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Monster w21 Faces posted:I used to get that issue with the old Tin Bitz. Pain in the rear end. I used to do a lot of work with latex covered foam weapons and we used acrylics that were sealed with gloss varnish.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:45
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thespaceinvader posted:I like sahring coo links every now and again: best thing, or BEST THING? It belongs in a museum. El Estrago Bonito posted:I used to do a lot of work with latex covered foam weapons and we used acrylics that were sealed with gloss varnish. Any flaking or cracking? this thing is going to be seeing some puttering and I'd like it to hold up over time.
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Dec 19, 2013 17:57
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 So this is my now nearly almost definitely done Imperial Bunker. Any thoughts on the scheme or any ways I could improve on it?
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Dec 19, 2013 18:06
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MisterG posted:This is Amazing! I love it!  Brushed area with blue, shaded it and the surrounding metal with soft body black, then intentionally pooled this weird bright-green wash in the center of the blue, not letting it get into the shaded edges near the metal. Then brightened the center of the dried wash pool with the jade green. The bright-green wash dried much darker than I originally assumed, which helped it shade towards bright green very well, though you might be able to use a similar dark green instead. Working into purples I would use GW Liche Purple into GW Warlock Purple (both are 'old' names). Something like this...  This example was same Vallejo blue, GW glazed(washed?) blue, then GW paint drybrushed either Liche Purple --> Warlock Purple or Ice Blue or Sybarite Green depending on the coloration of the section.
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Dec 19, 2013 18:18
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
You could try hitting it with a wash, and then a quick highlight to help pick out the details
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Dec 19, 2013 18:34
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
Honestly: more muted colour scheme. WHite building with red surround on the window looks like clown makeup, and very little like a building. Very few official buildings are painted in bright colours like that, they're usually fairly drab greys and browns; it looks weird.
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Dec 19, 2013 19:07
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X-post from 40k. Making slow, slow progress on my Crimson Hunter. Not feeling very ambitious.
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Dec 19, 2013 19:24
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Yeah I would have done tones of heavily weathered gray, and maybe some very old chipped red on some of the details.
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Dec 19, 2013 19:25
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
After you do all that (hopefully post another pic before this next step), hit the entire model with a nice coat of gloss varnish. Then go over the entire model with some wash. You might need to make your own simply because of volume unless you're okay with buying multiple pots of Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade. The gloss varnish will help the wash run into all the crevices and such and will bring out the details like the metal grating texture on the top and bring out all the details on the bones and skeletons. Yes, it will muddy up your whites and reds. But because you hit the model with a gloss coat before washing you can clean up the wash on the flattest surfaces with some mineral spirits and a Q-Tip (go Youtube search Awesome Paint Job and check out his videos, he does this on a few of his models). And you thought you were almost done, you've barely even started 
Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 20:26
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
Wash and weather the poo poo out of it.
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Dec 19, 2013 20:27
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Monster w21 Faces posted:It belongs in a museum. Anything made from Latex will have to be repaired constantly if it's used for anything that involves it knocking around.
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Dec 19, 2013 20:39
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