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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You might consider looking into steam bending. It's a fairly involved process though. One of those things I've been wanting to try for ages but never gotten around to, myself. Thanks! I'll just use dowels then. I was originally concerned that lateral forces would cause it to rotate free of the glue, but I think you're right, that would be perfect. The difficulty with the rockers is that it can't be a perfect circle like a pencil and string would produce. They have to be mostly flatish in the center with a gradual increase of curvature. I just keep drawing blanks on how to do something like that without a pattern to glue onto the boards and cut from, and google isn't being particularly helpful. What I've got should kind of work, but it doesn't seem to rock very well.
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Dec 22, 2013 05:18
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OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks! I'll just use dowels then. I was originally concerned that lateral forces would cause it to rotate free of the glue, but I think you're right, that would be perfect. Well, you should also glue the faces together normally. I don't think there'll be too much "splitting force" trying to pull the two pieces apart though, so you should be fine.
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Dec 22, 2013 05:29
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This is incredible 
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Dec 22, 2013 06:03
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I wouldn't attach the rockers directly to your legs, your horse might tip over. Assuming you're putting legs on the other side as well, I'd run a brace underneath the front and back legs and leave it a few inches wide on either side and then attach the rocker to your braces either using dowels as mentioned or screws or whatever. Depending on the glue you use (use Titebond!), there's a very good chance it'll end up being stronger than any wood you bond anyways. Glue is awesome like that.
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Dec 22, 2013 09:18
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thespaceinvader posted:Mostly looks a bit rotten, but take it inside, dry it out for a year or so, you might be able to salvage some of it - but the pieces are likely to be too short to actually DO much with. Blistex posted:A lot of it looks like a lost cause, but some of it might be useful. Here is a little "thing" that I made to show my students that even damaged or mostly rotten wood can be enough for smaller projects. I was going to originally make a rolling pin, but one of my smartass students said, "Another rolling pin?" and I replied. . . "not at all smartass, it's a . . . Los Angeles class Nuclear Attack sub!" Ok, cool. I'll drag some of the nicer pieces inside and have a closer look. Good point about the usefulness of the pieces though, they do look like awkwardly small chunks. Blistex posted:And that's where there is a submarine in my kitchen. That is spectacularly awesome. I hope to have a submarine in my kitchen one day as well.
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Dec 22, 2013 15:55
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OSU_Matthew posted:The difficulty with the rockers is that it can't be a perfect circle like a pencil and string would produce. They have to be mostly flatish in the center with a gradual increase of curvature. An elliptical segment should work. Play around with string length to get the shape you need. 
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Dec 22, 2013 16:02
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Man, that little lathe I bought is all kinds of fun. I've been turning bottle stoppers left and right. I bought some exotic wood blanks from Craft Supplies to make more and one of the blanks was Pau Amarello, which is kind of a plain yellow wood without much grain pattern. I didn't think it'd make very good bottle stoppers, so I turned a couple "birdhouse" ornaments out of it for my Mom for Christmas. Really happy with how they turned out. After figuring out how the heck to use a bowl gouge, I converted some firewood into my first bowl. It cracked a little but it held together and I'm pretty happy with how it came out considering I had never even held a bowl gouge or scraper before today. A lathe is almost as bad as photography as a hobby though. You buy the lathe (camera) and then you need all the accessories. I bought a set of turning tools, a chuck, still need to get a slow speed grinder and either buy or build a sharpening jig. I need a shop vac for cleaning eventually too. Decided today I need some smaller jaws for my Nova chuck so I'll add that to the list. A couple of birdhouses and about 1/3 of the bottle stoppers hanging up to dry: 
LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Dec 23, 2013 |
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Dec 22, 2013 22:43
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Ive never built from a plan before and thought it would be a nice relaxation; just quickly cut from a sheet and assemble, no problems. Wrong! First drat plan I try ends up having an error! http://www.skiltools.com/How-To/Documents/Internal%20Projects/Step%20By%20Step/Kitchen%20StoolREV.pdf The notch on the front (or back) leg is too high (or too low). I ended up still making it work but drat is that frustrating
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Dec 23, 2013 02:34
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OSU_Matthew posted:
My in-laws gave my son a VERY nice hand-made rocking horse from a semi-famous local craftsman (now deceased) from Lancaster, PA. I don't have a photo, but the rocker IS pretty round throughout - with the exception of a nub at the end that seems to prevent the rocker from tipping over even with the most rigorous of rocking. Here's a similar looking rocker to what we have (although not nearly as nice): http://turnertoys.com/images/products/1634.jpg You can see the kind of rounded counter-rocker at the ends. I've rocked on this thing myself (it's super sturdy) and I can't get it to tip over without pretty much launching myself forward.
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Dec 23, 2013 02:38
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I just finished a hope chest. Christmas present from my friend to his daughter.
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Dec 23, 2013 17:28
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oxbrain posted:An elliptical segment should work. Play around with string length to get the shape you need. Thanks for the ingenious advice! That string and tacks thing is brilliant--just what I was looking for! I'll play around with that when I get home. Johnny Bravo posted:I wouldn't attach the rockers directly to your legs, your horse might tip over.  Edit:^^^ that chest is marvelous! What wood did you use? Cedar and oak? Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Dec 23, 2013 |
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Dec 23, 2013 19:07
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OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks for the ingenious advice! That string and tacks thing is brilliant--just what I was looking for! I'll play around with that when I get home. While that's a great way to make an eclipse I think you're mistaken to want that for the rockers. That curve actually makes the horse more tippy the farther it rocks. Looking quickly at pictures I don't see any rocking horses like that and it makes sense. I think you want a perfect circle but one with a radius much larger than the size of the horse.
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Dec 23, 2013 19:37
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"A Christmas ornament"
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Dec 23, 2013 21:40
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Frank Howarth?
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Dec 23, 2013 21:49
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Pretty cool - something else to try on the lathe. Finished all of my Christmas gifts and nearly everything is wrapped. Here's a charging valet I made for my sister:  The top tilts forward and there's a thing that plugs into the wall with 5 USB ports. There are grooves in the sides to feed the cables out of. I wrapped up a Lightning cable, a 30 pin cable, and a couple of micro USB cables and stuck them inside. Primary cherry, with inlaid banding. This was a quick project I thought up kind of last minute and I cranked it out in a weekend. She wanted something like this from Belkin and I took one look at it and thought "I can do that better". This is a chalkboard I made my niece.  Red oak with chalkboard handi-panels from the home center. It's been colder then normal here and I got started late, so rather than plane additional lumber, I used red oak flooring left over from a job for part of it. Turned out really nice. I was going to make one side a whiteboard, but she's three and I figured whiteboard markers would just result in ruined carpet/walls/etc.
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Dec 23, 2013 23:36
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So, I have 3/4" piece of padauk I need planed to 1/2". No planer, is it possible I could use a table saw?
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Dec 24, 2013 02:42
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asdf32 posted:While that's a great way to make an eclipse I think you're mistaken to want that for the rockers. That curve actually makes the horse more tippy the farther it rocks. Looking quickly at pictures I don't see any rocking horses like that and it makes sense. I think you want a perfect circle but one with a radius much larger than the size of the horse. This is all true. However: one of the original pictures showed rockers that were flat at the ends, i.e. a curve in the middle and then a long flat to the end of the rocker. That's the safest, it provides a hard stop which is VERY hard to get past. Any sort of smooth curve will allow for more continuation of momentum, while the flat edge eats up pretty much all the momentum. It doesn't guarantee a smooth ride, though, if the rider tends to rock to the limits of the available curve. So the large-radius circle with the center of said circle well above the rider is still probably the best bet all around. Figure your rider's head will be at, say, 3' off the ground, make the center of the circle 5-6'.
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Dec 24, 2013 03:18
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mds2 posted:Frank Howarth? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbAAdwlHudo Yep. Man you know you do good work branding yourself when people instantly recognize a simple videography technique you use for your subject.
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Dec 24, 2013 09:54
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Doing cool stuff on a lathe reminded me of this pool cue. I don't have a lathe and don't know much about them, so it has always baffled me how that cue is made. All I know is that it is made from two solid blanks - not inlays. Any ideas?
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Dec 25, 2013 07:11
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SkunkDuster posted:Doing cool stuff on a lathe reminded me of this pool cue. I don't have a lathe and don't know much about them, so it has always baffled me how that cue is made. All I know is that it is made from two solid blanks - not inlays. Any ideas? A pool cue can be made from dozens of individual pieces of wood all laminated together. You can even throw inlay, veneer, and other do-dads into the mix to make it even more confusing. Here is a guy making one from hand, and the number of splices he uses will give you an idea of how complex a cue can be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_RJUcyvr_s
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Dec 25, 2013 16:34
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Memo to self: never do woodworking on a strict schedule, especially as a newbie in the shop. I have six hours to finish this box before my girlfriend gets back from vacation.
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Dec 26, 2013 17:51
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polyfractal posted:Memo to self: never do woodworking on a strict schedule, especially as a newbie in the shop. I have six hours to finish this box before my girlfriend gets back from vacation. Just don't cut your arm off.
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Dec 26, 2013 23:45
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So classy. This is the reason I want a lathe. Works for satellites, too, apparently.  http://www.bestmadeco.com/collections/all/products/satellites iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Dec 28, 2013 |
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Dec 27, 2013 03:45
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Blistex posted:A pool cue can be made from dozens of individual pieces of wood all laminated together. You can even throw inlay, veneer, and other do-dads into the mix to make it even more confusing. Here is a guy making one from hand, and the number of splices he uses will give you an idea of how complex a cue can be. That was an interesting video and I enjoyed watching it. The Viking cue I linked doesn't seem to be made from laminated layers, though. To me, it looks like two solid pieces of wood joined with an extremely complex and impossible(?) joint. I did a little bit of research before posting and it seems to be a very complex process, but nobody posted what that process was. Maybe it is a trade secret.
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Dec 27, 2013 03:45
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I know that viking likes to make their higher-end cues from multiple pieces of wood and they also like to insert "technobabble" pieces and do-dads into them as well. Example: http://shop.vikingcue.com/shafts The cue that you posted seems to me, to be solid-ish pieces with inlay to give it the designs on the outside.
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Dec 27, 2013 04:44
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I just spent $300 on parallel clamps. drat you all. If anyone else wants to save a bit on some Bessey Clamps, try this. 1) Go to Lowes.com, they have the cheapest per clamp price. 2) Use you google skills to find a 10% coupon 3) Buy gift cards off card swap.com for another 5% off. $344-40-15=$299 for 8 clamps. Amazon wants $196 for a set of 4.
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Dec 27, 2013 05:36
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the spyder posted:I just spent $300 on parallel clamps. drat you all. I clamp with stanley 2x4 clamps, gently caress the police.
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Dec 27, 2013 08:57
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polyfractal posted:Memo to self: never do woodworking on a strict schedule, especially as a newbie in the shop. I have six hours to finish this box before my girlfriend gets back from vacation. My brother and I started building a crib for my Sisters first kid, thought we could knock it out in a few weekends. Missed that deadline, she now has two kids, my brother's first is almost here, and I have a 3/4 finished bed in my garage that will prob never get done now. In short screw deadlines, work gets rushed or never finished either way its not what you want it to be.
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Dec 27, 2013 16:15
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I have a noobie woodworking question. I cut down a branch on my tablesaw to make a doorstop. the log was sitting on my firewood pile for the last month after tree trimming this fall. now the wood looks like its splitting.    Is it splitting because the wood was too wet when I cut it, now its drying out and shrinking? Or because of the grain of the wood?(the core of a small branch) Or is it just crappy species of tree?
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Dec 27, 2013 19:23
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Jesus Horse posted:I have a noobie woodworking question. Two things. 1. All wood is wet when you cut it, and as it dries quickly it starts to split, typically from he middle just like in the picture there. You can fight this by painting the ends of the log to keep moisture from escaping out the end grain. 2. Please try not to take anything rough like a log to the table saw. The safety of that tool depends on complete flatness. If anything shifts while sawing and binds the blade, it will be kicked toward you at surprising force. Many fingers, hands, ribs etc have been broken by reckless woodworkers from table saw kickback.
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Dec 27, 2013 21:03
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Wood dries SLOWLY, too. In the months or years depending on the environment it's grown in and stored in. Dry something for a month, especially outside in a relatively damp climate, you've still basically got green wood.
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Dec 27, 2013 23:09
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Phew! Finished the box for my girlfriend, as well as two cutting boards for my family. The box is an ugly duckling for sure, but the girlfriend really liked it. I'll post some pictures in a bit once the finishes dry. Question about gear, now that the holiday rush is over. It became abundantly clear that I'm lacking the ability to rip consistently, and to resaw. Resawing in particular really bothers me. I think I'll be doing a lot of "fine" woodworking like making boxes, so resawing 4/4 hardwood down to size would be super useful. I'm torn between a bandsaw and a table saw for my next big purchase. The bandsaw will let me resaw, and I can probably do rough rips then clean up with a hand plane later. On the other hand, the table saw will do just about everything...except resawing which looks like a nightmare (and dangerous to boot). The last consideration is that I'll be moving cross-country in about 7 months, so I don't want to go overboard with power tools. The tablesaw looks more efficient when it comes to useful-to-expensive ratio. My current set of tools:
If I were to buy a bandsaw, I'd probably pick up a nicer set of hand planes for jointing, and maybe a circular saw for sheet ripping.
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Dec 28, 2013 16:56
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If resawing is your big thing, you need a bandsaw. Tablesaws CAN do it, but at very limited depth and safety. Given you've also already got a coumpound mitre for crosscutting, I'd got with the bandsaw. I want both D:
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Dec 28, 2013 17:07
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I have a bandsaw, and it's definitely possible to rip with it, though it takes some skill to keep the blade from wandering. The main thing I like about bandsaws vs. table saws is that all the blade force is downwards. A bandsaw is not going to fling your workpiece back at you the way tablesaws can if the blade binds. They can still chop a finger off of course, but any saw can do that. Tablesaws are more portable than bandsaws are, though. I wouldn't really like to imagine trying to move cross-country with a bandsaw, at least not without a lot of help packing and moving tools.
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Dec 28, 2013 17:13
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Jesus Horse posted:I have a noobie woodworking question. When cutting down hardwoods, the first thing I usually do it hit each end with a rattle can of rust paint. This dramatically slows down the drying at the ends and prevents 90% of cracking. The walnut I get from Southern Ontario comes in 6' lengths because that's the length of the box on the lady's truck, so that's the length I get. The logs are not sprayed, and the usable lengths that I end up with after getting rid of the cracked parts is ~5' or sometimes even shorter. Unless you're going to be using 4x4" sections, the best thing to do is get that stuff to a sawmill asap and have it stacked properly in a cool dry place without direct sunlight. If it's properly spaced and weighted, you'll have useable hardwood lumber in a month or two instead of a year or two. Got to Home depot and pick up a lumber moisture tester as well, they're great at giving you a rough idea how much longer the boards have to sit, or if you have to do something to slow down the drying process.
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Dec 28, 2013 17:25
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I want to build small boxes and enclosures for various projects, like you might build using a laser cutter or shopbot, and am curious what are some alternatives since I can't have a laser cutter where I'm at and it's too expensive to use a hacker space or online services. I'm hoping to work with different materials like MDF, birch plywood, acrylic/lexan, and maybe aluminum or sheet metal. I was thinking of getting a bench top scroll saw and a drill press from Harbor Freight, like these: - Scroll saw: http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-variable-speed-scroll-saw-93012.html - 8" drill press: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-bench-mount-drill-press-5-speed-60238.html For cutting down larger stock to smaller pieces I already have a jigsaw that works reasonably well. I don't have a proper shop or room for one, so whatever I get has to be usable in a spare room or out on a patio. I'm hoping to not spend a ton of money either because at some point it's cheaper to just use a laser cutter from a hacker space/service.
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Dec 28, 2013 18:12
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Finally got my built-ins mostly finished. Need to get shelf mounting pins as I used a 1/4" pegboard template but forgot that the pins I have are 5mm. Not a bad month project and they make the family room a lot nicer.    Just need some cushions for the bench, mount the baseboard, and adjust one of the drawers that isn't quite perfect. Note for anyone doing inset doors: if you're using the business card method of shimming to fit, be sure to give yourself a generous reveal prior to staining or painting. I had a perfect 4 card reveal on everything then painted, and between the thickness of the paint and the swelling of the stiles on the end grain, everything had to be hand-planed to fit. Won't make that mistake again. Tim Thomas fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Dec 31, 2013 |
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Dec 31, 2013 21:44
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I'm going to build a coffee table and some end tables for our living room, I don't have a problem building it but I think for this project I'd like to paint the wood instead of staining. Since it will be painted I will use cheaper wood, should I opt for poplar or stick with pine for something I'm going to paint over? The internet is telling me that poplar is a nice choice. The tables will be used so I wasn't sure about the softness of pine.
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Jan 1, 2014 00:59
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Sylink posted:Since it will be painted I will use cheaper wood, should I opt for poplar or stick with pine for something I'm going to paint over? The internet is telling me that poplar is a nice choice. The tables will be used so I wasn't sure about the softness of pine. My general take on this is that poplar is green-tinted and knot-free, but a bit more expensive than pine. If you can find knot-free pine then you might as well use it for this kind of situation; I don't think the softness of the two woods is very different.
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Jan 1, 2014 02:25
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Sylink posted:I'm going to build a coffee table and some end tables for our living room, I don't have a problem building it but I think for this project I'd like to paint the wood instead of staining. Poplar and Pine are about the same when it comes to softness but Poplar doesn't warp or cup nearly as bad as Pine can from my experience. Personally, I'd go with Poplar, I use it for just about everything that requires a harder surface than MDF and will be painted (cabinets, nosing, handrail, etc.) If you're really concerned about dents and dings, Maple is an option for the tops depending on your budget but Poplar would probably be plenty fine if you're wanting to stay with cheaper material.
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Jan 1, 2014 05:47
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