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Spedman posted:Seeing as the wet printing thread has fallen into the ether, I'll post these here. I'm starting to get into some alt printing processes, and these are the first few I've made using the Argyrotype process: I don't think the portrait really fits the presentation, but the floral ones are absolutely killer.
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Dec 22, 2013 07:43
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aliencowboy posted:I don't think the portrait really fits the presentation, but the floral ones are absolutely killer. Cheers, its a super easy process, no development step and you just need a darkish room with a 40W bulb to prepare the paper. I think the portrait doesn't quite work because the negative was a bit thin, so it came out quite flat. But a portrait with a short DOF and some punchy lighting would work, something dramatic.
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Dec 22, 2013 08:26
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Happy Birthday and Merry Christmas to me  
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Dec 23, 2013 23:31
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Nice. I love my Nikonos.
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Dec 23, 2013 23:32
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Paul MaudDib posted:Happy Birthday and Merry Christmas to me https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_IlNbsILLE
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Dec 23, 2013 23:35
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Looks like a sturdy camera, what is it?
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Dec 24, 2013 01:05
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Looks like a sturdy camera, what is it? Nikonos V.
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Dec 24, 2013 01:08
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I mean, it won't stop a bullet like a III, and it's made of plastic for babies, but it's still cooler than any slr.
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Dec 24, 2013 01:36
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365 Nog Hogger posted:I mean, it won't stop a bullet like a III, and it's made of plastic for babies, but it's still cooler than any slr. Word.  Nikonos III by g.hetzel, on Flickr
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Dec 24, 2013 01:56
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my grandmom got me a long camera for christmas  
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Dec 26, 2013 01:04
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Look what arrived  
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Dec 26, 2013 03:50
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Looking at all the cool camera swag you people got it makes me sad that all I got was 2 rolls of portra
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Dec 26, 2013 04:55
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So, I got 15 rolls of Arista EDU 100 in 120. This means I should probably buy baby's first B&W dev kit. Anyone have a recommended list of developer, fixer, etc?
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Dec 26, 2013 05:06
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Casu Marzu posted:So, I got 15 rolls of Arista EDU 100 in 120. This means I should probably buy baby's first B&W dev kit. Anyone have a recommended list of developer, fixer, etc? Cheap, simple and easy: Rodinal (R09, Adonal etc) for dev, water for stop, then Ilford Rapid Fix, and then water to wash out the fix.
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Dec 26, 2013 07:38
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Spedman posted:Cheap, simple and easy: Rodinal (R09, Adonal etc) for dev, water for stop, then Ilford Rapid Fix, and then water to wash out the fix. Would you use something after the fix wash to stop spots/streaks when the negs are drying? Am I right in thinking that you can use a drop of dishwashing liquid to do this? (Its been too long. I need to shoot more film again.)
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Dec 26, 2013 08:43
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Man_alive posted:Would you use something after the fix wash to stop spots/streaks when the negs are drying? Am I right in thinking that you can use a drop of dishwashing liquid to do this? Photoflow is only if you have hard water, but I do recommend hypoclear to reduce washing times.
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Dec 26, 2013 10:18
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This might be a daft question, but I've got a Lomo Sprocket Rocket for christmas and was wondering about how to go about developing film for it. If I take it to a normal C41 minilab place and make sure they know to expect the photos are exposed over two frames, would that be okay? Obviously a standard one-hour lab won't be able to do pano prints with the sprockets etc. but the negatives would turn out fine to scan myself, yeah? Or am I missing something important about how minilabs work. Worse comes to worst I can just stick to using B&W film and use it as an excuse to start home developing stuff 
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Dec 26, 2013 16:05
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Just ask them not to cut the negatives. You'll probably get the strip back in a film canister, which means it'll curve, so when you do go to scan it'll be a pain in the rear end. You might have to flatten your negs with a pile of books for a day or two.
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Dec 26, 2013 16:23
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Shazaminator posted:This might be a daft question, but I've got a Lomo Sprocket Rocket for christmas and was wondering about how to go about developing film for it. If I take it to a normal C41 minilab place and make sure they know to expect the photos are exposed over two frames, would that be okay? Obviously a standard one-hour lab won't be able to do pano prints with the sprockets etc. but the negatives would turn out fine to scan myself, yeah? Or am I missing something important about how minilabs work. You should be able to ask any place that develops film just to develop the film only and to not cut the negatives, I've asked my local Walgreens to do it a couple times and I had no problems.
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Dec 26, 2013 16:46
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So, this is my current shopping cart on Freestyle. Am I missing anything? Arista Hypo Wash to Make 1 Gallon Compard R09 One Shot Agfa Rodinal Formula Film Developer - 500ml Ilford Rapid Fixer 1 liter Arista Premium Double Reel Developing Tank with two reels Paterson Beaker 34 oz. / 1 Liter Paterson Graduate 1.5 oz. / 45ml Arista Air-Evac Bottle 2 Liter Arista Changing Bag 27 in. x 30 in.
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Dec 26, 2013 17:07
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Mest0r posted:You should be able to ask any place that develops film just to develop the film only and to not cut the negatives, I've asked my local Walgreens to do it a couple times and I had no problems. Quantum of Phallus posted:Just ask them not to cut the negatives. You'll probably get the strip back in a film canister, which means it'll curve, so when you do go to scan it'll be a pain in the rear end. You might have to flatten your negs with a pile of books for a day or two. Aces, thanks guys.
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Dec 26, 2013 17:16
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Casu Marzu posted:So, this is my current shopping cart on Freestyle. Am I missing anything? Make sure you have something to hang the film to dry with. It doesn't have to be dedicated film clips, just something reasonably grippy to hang it in and to keep it straight.
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Dec 26, 2013 17:41
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nielsm posted:Make sure you have something to hang the film to dry with. It doesn't have to be dedicated film clips, just something reasonably grippy to hang it in and to keep it straight. I use a piece of string (I think it's a boot lace) and clothespins. Also you may want to consider stop bath and Photo Flo. These are also pretty easy to replace with home chemicals, I think. Stop bath is basically a diluted solution of white vinegar, the real stuff just has an indicator coloring to let you know when it's no longer strong enough to stop the developer. You can also just use water. Photo flo is a surfactant that keeps fallout from sticking to the film. You should be able to get away with mixing a tiny tiny amount (a couple drops) of dish soap with a liter of water, or you might be able to skip it entirely if you don't have hard water (I do it always just to be sure). Both of them are pretty cheap, so I just use the real stuff. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Dec 26, 2013 |
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Dec 26, 2013 18:08
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Man_alive posted:Would you use something after the fix wash to stop spots/streaks when the negs are drying? Final rinse with distilled water. Dirty cheap at the grocery store. RO will also generally work if that's readily available and cheaper in your area (i.e. water and ice stores). Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Dec 26, 2013 |
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Dec 26, 2013 19:18
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Could someone explain the benefits of Rodinal over say HC-110? I've always used HC-110 and love it as 1L of the stuff lasts forever and I feel I get great tonality out of it. Is there anymore tonality that you would get out of Rodinal? Just trying to understand all the love for it and rather or not it would be worth ordering some.
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Dec 27, 2013 04:14
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It enhances the Leica glow. But really, it has high acutance, you can soup it at low concentrations to tame contrast and/or push the hell out of films, and with the range of concentrations you can use it at you can increase or lower the contrast of your negatives as needed.
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Dec 27, 2013 04:40
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pootiebigwang posted:Could someone explain the benefits of Rodinal over say HC-110? I've always used HC-110 and love it as 1L of the stuff lasts forever and I feel I get great tonality out of it. Is there anymore tonality that you would get out of Rodinal? Just trying to understand all the love for it and rather or not it would be worth ordering some. i really love the way it brings out shadows and keeps highlights from blowing out. love the tones that i can get out of an image.  9/11 Memorial, NY by JaundiceDave, on Flickr  The New Museum, NY by JaundiceDave, on Flickr  The Ticket Writer, Nice by JaundiceDave, on Flickr
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Dec 27, 2013 05:15
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It's one of the longest-lived and more popular developers, so there's recipes for everything, both high and low dilution. Like high-dilution HC-110, high-dilution Rodinal "compensates", i.e. it tends to pull the highlights and push the shadows, reducing image contrast a bit. All Rodinal tends to increase the actuance (perceived sharpness) of the image, at the cost of intensifying the grain somewhat (which you may like anyway). There are some recipes that are pretty much universal, 1:100 stand for 1h produces normal development on basically anything you throw into it, so you can mix film types, develop unknown film, etc. It is also predictably +1 stop development at 1:30, and +2 at 2h. Also, like HC-110 it can be used as a one-shot which eliminates any replenishment process or chance to contaminate your developer. And as long as HC-110 lasts if properly stored (the bottles do tend to crack), Rodinal lasts longer. You can literally open up a can from the 1910s or 1920s and develop with it in the year 2013, so sitting in a bottle for ten years is no big deal.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Dec 27, 2013 |
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Dec 27, 2013 08:27
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atomicthumbs posted:my grandmom got me a long camera for christmas whoa what is this?
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Dec 28, 2013 01:37
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DJExile posted:whoa what is this? A camera, what are you blind? 
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Dec 28, 2013 04:57
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Hi, filmgoons. Somebody just brought to my attention the fact that Ferrania is coming back. I think it's awesome that we're going to have new(ish) films to play with, especially since the Scotchchrome that they're bringing back is E-6, and I don't recall it being discussed much in this thread. I've never used Ferrania, or even really heard of it, but I'm just wondering if any of you old bastards shot it back in the day and what your thoughts are on it coming back. Everything on APUG devolves into some esoteric offtopic discussion of formats because they made 126, and nobody ever seems to address whether or not Solaris and Scotchchrome (the two films apparently coming back) were any good to start with. They are being reformulated, but since they'll be based on the old stuff, it's worth knowing about. Also, who else is like me and just wants to buy a bunch of it on principle?
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Dec 29, 2013 09:51
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Gargonovitch posted:Hi, filmgoons. First I've heard about this but I just signed up to their mailing list, I'm always happy to try out new (old) film stocks
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Dec 29, 2013 15:55
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Yeah, first I've seen about them coming back. I'm glad to potentially have another film choice, but the impression I have of their film is not favorable. It was often rebranded and sold as drug/grocery store brand film, and the colors I've seen from it are best described as 'impressionistic' and grainy.
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Dec 29, 2013 18:53
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Thought I'd made a post here last night, guess not? In any event, I went to a camera shop that had a single roll of underpriced Provia 400X, which I've never shot. How should I use it? I imagine the dynamic range is more velvia than portra.
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Dec 29, 2013 21:03
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DJExile posted:whoa what is this? a camera for take photographs in the third dimension
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Dec 29, 2013 23:28
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nm posted:Thought I'd made a post here last night, guess not? Its basically high speed velvia with more realistic saturation levels. Very low grain, but the DR doesn't approach negative film obviously. Daylight only.
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Dec 29, 2013 23:53
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Woke up to a really wonderful day of November with a roll of Superia 400 and my Nikkor 20mm AI-s Apennine valleys di maxmars70, su Flickr
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Jan 1, 2014 23:04
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Inherited my father-in-law's Mamiya 35mm over the holidays and taking my first roll of film to Walgreens in the morning. I'm only about half sure there's anything on it. This is fun!
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Jan 3, 2014 05:43
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Jan 3, 2014 05:56
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Kind of a weird sky day. I swear this is unfucked with in post. A Pale Horse Obeys by voodoorootbeer, on Flickr
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