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I was wondering, I recently got a nvidia 760 which asks for a 500 watt PSU on the box. Which I have, exactly. Should I concern myself with how much extraneous junk I pile on? Like, I want to add on some more fans and a hard drive or two and maybe actually hook up my dvd drive.
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Dec 26, 2013 03:41
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kater posted:I was wondering, I recently got a nvidia 760 which asks for a 500 watt PSU on the box. Which I have, exactly. Should I concern myself with how much extraneous junk I pile on? Like, I want to add on some more fans and a hard drive or two and maybe actually hook up my dvd drive. Edit: Sounds like you're fine! Alereon fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Dec 26, 2013 |
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Dec 26, 2013 03:48
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Backfiah posted:Apologies that this probably isn't quite the question intended for this thread, but I didn't want to create a new thread for a tiny question. There's native support for the 360 controller in surprisingly many PC games these days, and it's triggers are very nice for driving in GTA-style games. In my opinion it's also quite a bit more comfortable than the various iterations of PS controllers. The biggest drawback is that the d-pad kinda sucks, although it's only really noticeable in stuff like Street Fighter and SHMUPS. I also have an older Logitech PS2-style controller which I've been using for emulating PS games for almost a decade now. They make some great kit.
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Dec 26, 2013 03:51
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Fruits of the sea posted:There's native support for the 360 controller in surprisingly many PC games these days, and it's triggers are very nice for driving in GTA-style games. In my opinion it's also quite a bit more comfortable than the various iterations of PS controllers. The biggest drawback is that the d-pad kinda sucks, although it's only really noticeable in stuff like Street Fighter and SHMUPS. I'm only really thinking about some of the Batman/AC/etc games so I might have to look into the 360 controller - I recently upgraded to 8.1 and the support is meant to be pretty great for it now. Thanks.
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Dec 26, 2013 04:05
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Alereon posted:What power supply do you have? If it's generic or more than a few years old I'd replace it on general principle, otherwise don't worry about it. The 500W power supply requirement already assumes a significant safety factor, the actual power draw of a GTX 760 is 170W, your CPU is another 100W maybe, so unless you're overclocking or have a low quality power supply you still have a lot of headroom to play with. The big bold tagline reads: Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply. It's two and a half years old exactly. CPU is just a stock i5-2500k. Have had two memory voltage errors recently, but I'm almost certain they are from manually interrupting the boot like a caveman. That much cushion really puts me at ease though, unless you come back saying I've got a timebomb inside my machine.
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Dec 26, 2013 04:39
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Xbox360 Wired USB knockoff http://r.ebay.com/Qm4aNS
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Dec 26, 2013 11:30
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Jago posted:Xbox360 Wired USB knockoff I picked one up from Amazon, it looks just like this one, but the analog stick seems to really be more of an 8-way D-pad. It might be best to just get an official Microsoft one. the vibration is very buzzy, too, like the motors aren't padded.
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Dec 26, 2013 16:07
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IS there a thread for headphone recommendations? I'm looking to buy a good budget headphone/mic and just want some opinions on quality/comfort vs price.
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Dec 26, 2013 18:13
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Backfiah posted:Apologies that this probably isn't quite the question intended for this thread, but I didn't want to create a new thread for a tiny question. If you prefer the 360 style, just get the Microsoft official one. If you prefer the Playstation style, Logitech is your best bet. Oddhair posted:I picked one up from Amazon, it looks just like this one, but the analog stick seems to really be more of an 8-way D-pad. It might be best to just get an official Microsoft one. the vibration is very buzzy, too, like the motors aren't padded. Yeah, when it's only $10-12 more for the official one (maybe less, if you can hit an after-Christmas sale), if you prefer the 360 controller there's no point in not getting the official one.
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Dec 26, 2013 18:25
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neogeo0823 posted:IS there a thread for headphone recommendations? I'm looking to buy a good budget headphone/mic and just want some opinions on quality/comfort vs price.
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Dec 26, 2013 19:39
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Ah, thanks. I went and asked over there.
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Dec 26, 2013 20:19
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Oddhair posted:I picked one up from Amazon, it looks just like this one, but the analog stick seems to really be more of an 8-way D-pad. It might be best to just get an official Microsoft one. the vibration is very buzzy, too, like the motors aren't padded. The one I got appears to be exactly a 360 controller sans logo and sticker. Small risk I suppose.
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Dec 26, 2013 22:12
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How much of a problem is it running an i5 Haswell chip with 1.65v memory? My friend is building a new PC with an ASRock B85M-Pro4 MOBO and i5-4670k and I have 16GB of PNY RAM I can give him, but it apparently runs at 1.65v
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Dec 27, 2013 00:40
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Petite Dinklage posted:How much of a problem is it running an i5 Haswell chip with 1.65v memory? My friend is building a new PC with an ASRock B85M-Pro4 MOBO and i5-4670k and I have 16GB of PNY RAM I can give him, but it apparently runs at 1.65v
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Dec 27, 2013 00:44
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Alereon posted:Don't do this. If you really want to use the RAM, lower the clockspeeds so it will run at 1.50v. That was the plan, but how much will it affect the performance? I believe it is XRS8 RAM
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Dec 27, 2013 00:48
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Petite Dinklage posted:That was the plan, but how much will it affect the performance? I believe it is XRS8 RAM
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Dec 27, 2013 00:57
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HDMI is a strange and frightening thing to me, so I'll ask you guys. I have to connect my video card (GTX460) a pretty far distance to my tv (35ft) and can't find any mini-HDMI to HDMI cables in that length. There's also no space on the card for an adapter with the two DVI ports occupied. Would I have any problems running a short mini-HDMI cable to an adapter and from there run a regular cable to my TV? My ultimate aim here is to replicate my main monitor desktop on the TV along with sound.
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Dec 27, 2013 05:31
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Puget Systems, a smaller systems integrator/boutique, published a list of parts they used that ended up being extremely reliable. Here's a link to the post. A few highlights: CPU failure rates were 0.39%, which is higher than the common wisdom suggests. This is down from 0.47% last year. There was no difference between Intel and AMD CPUs. Asus makes some really solid hardware - three of four motherboards that made the list and most of the GPUs are Asus models. EVGA also got a general GPU shoutout, and Zotac had a few nice models, as well. Kingston RAM, Kingston RAM, Kingston RAM. Also, RAM reliability is up in general this year. They sold four models of Samsung SSD. Two drives failed (0.7% of that model). Of all the WD Green and Blue drives sold this past year, none failed. Nvidia's Greenlight works well. Though an Asus Radeon 7850 hit the "most reliable" list, failure rates in general were 3.3% for GeForces vs. 10% for Radeons. Quadros and FirePros were both about 2%, but not many sold so those numbers probably aren't statistically significant. Finally, they toot their own horn and say "We find bad parts before they ship to you, so the end-user failure rates are up to an order of magnitude lower than build-it-yourself."
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Dec 27, 2013 07:27
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Der Luftwaffle posted:HDMI is a strange and frightening thing to me, so I'll ask you guys. Last I heard the conventional wisdom is you need multiple cards to get 3 displays on Nvidia, those vintage cards were 2 only. Also, even in the event your card supports 3, if, for instance, your monitors were also HDMI, but you used adapters, it might still be possible to have too few TMDS (Transition-minimized differential signaling) resources to drive all three. While DVI and HDMI streams are pin-compatible, HDMI requires TMDS, and DVI doesn't. You might just need to swap one of your DVI cables for a DVI-HDMI cable to drive that TV. Monoprice has got those, just beware they're very heavy in that length, so they can be tough to manouevre into tight places.
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Dec 27, 2013 15:25
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Did a fresh install on a new asus motherboard with intel cpu and nvidia gpu. The mainboard chipset drivers installed a "Intel HD Graphics driver" which is now sitting in my installed programs. I suppose its for some kind of onboard chip? My question is, do I need it, could it conflict with the actual graphics card and what should I do with it?
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Dec 27, 2013 19:42
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It's for the integrated graphics on the Intel chip. It presents no problems at all and can only ever be useful (e.g. if you ever remove the graphics card for troubleshooting and need to use the integrated temporarily). You may never need it, but there's nothing to be gained and opportunity to lose by getting rid of it.
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Dec 27, 2013 19:48
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Oddhair posted:Last I heard the conventional wisdom is you need multiple cards to get 3 displays on Nvidia, those vintage cards were 2 only. Also, even in the event your card supports 3, if, for instance, your monitors were also HDMI, but you used adapters, it might still be possible to have too few TMDS (Transition-minimized differential signaling) resources to drive all three. While DVI and HDMI streams are pin-compatible, HDMI requires TMDS, and DVI doesn't. You might just need to swap one of your DVI cables for a DVI-HDMI cable to drive that TV. Monoprice has got those, just beware they're very heavy in that length, so they can be tough to manouevre into tight places. Thanks, I had no idea about the display limit! Unfortunately doing a dvi>hdmi for the tv isn't an option because I need sound as well. Would I be better off getting a second cheaper card (non SLI) with hdmi to clone my main display and sound output onto, rather than messing about with adapters? Der Luftwaffle fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Dec 27, 2013 |
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Dec 27, 2013 20:29
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Factory Factory posted:It's for the integrated graphics on the Intel chip. It presents no problems at all and can only ever be useful (e.g. if you ever remove the graphics card for troubleshooting and need to use the integrated temporarily). Would you recommend installing it to someone who's been using a graphics card and never installed the Intel graphics drivers for over a year (me)? Fake edit: I'm considering doing a full driver update pass since way back when I installed everything I just grabbed the ones from ASUS' page instead of going to each manufacturer's site and getting them there and might as well install them at that time. poo poo like using Driver Fusion to clear out remnants is only really necessary for AMD/NVIDIA graphics drivers, right?
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Dec 27, 2013 20:46
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Der Luftwaffle posted:Thanks, I had no idea about the display limit! Unfortunately doing a dvi>hdmi for the tv isn't an option because I need sound as well. Would I be better off getting a second cheaper card (non SLI) with hdmi to clone my main display and sound output onto, rather than messing about with adapters? Unless you're on a very tight budget I would just buy a new card capable of supporting three displays (probably means AMD-based.) A mid-range card based on current architecture will easily outperform a top-end card based on nearly 4 year old architecture.
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Dec 27, 2013 20:47
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Der Luftwaffle posted:Thanks, I had no idea about the display limit! Unfortunately doing a dvi>hdmi for the tv isn't an option because I need sound as well. Would I be better off getting a second cheaper card (non SLI) with hdmi to clone my main display and sound output onto, rather than messing about with adapters? The DVI port and HDMI port actually are encoded the same, the audio is not separate from the video, they're interleaved together. This doesn't mean that those DVI ports will or can carry audio, but they're certainly capable of it. It might be possible to get audio from a DVI-HDMI cable to your TV.
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Dec 27, 2013 23:23
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I want, but cannot find, a micro USB male to USB 2.0 male adapter anywhere. I have cables that do that and occasionally also see them for sale, but I want the shortest thing possible. This is the closest I can find, but I want it male on both ends. Am I missing some technology limitation?
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Dec 28, 2013 01:51
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Thesoro posted:I want, but cannot find, a micro USB male to USB 2.0 male adapter anywhere. I have cables that do that and occasionally also see them for sale, but I want the shortest thing possible. This is the closest I can find, but I want it male on both ends. It sounds like what you want is just a super-short cable. Adapters exist to change connectors around to work with the cables you already have; nobody makes an "adapter" that does what you want because it's already the function of a standard micro-USB cable. What are you trying to do? USB ports aren't designed to bear significant weight, especially the micro kind - put more than a little bit of force on there, and you'll rip it off the circuit board (as many heartbroken phone owners have found). For that reason, using a rigid adapter between two devices is usually a bad idea. You can get micro-USB cables in lengths as short as six inches, and if this is some kind of custom project, it's pretty easy to take a standard-length cable, cut a big chunk out of the middle, and put it back together in a three-inch length (or whatever you need).
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Dec 28, 2013 02:50
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Space Gopher posted:It sounds like what you want is just a super-short cable. Adapters exist to change connectors around to work with the cables you already have; nobody makes an "adapter" that does what you want because it's already the function of a standard micro-USB cable.
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Dec 28, 2013 03:07
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Had one HDD (1TB) installed, added an SSD (500GB) and cloned the HDD to it. I want to have both running at the same time, both bootable with Windows (for the time being); the problem is that Windows won't detect the SSD, when both are connected, and allow me to boot from it. I suspect it has to do with the MBR being hosed, perhaps due to the cloning.   Can someone identify the problem and what to do? I don't want to experiment and bust either of the drives/partitions, which is why I'd rather ask here.
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Dec 28, 2013 14:13
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So I finally built my new PC and it has been running maybe 3-4 days now. Today while browsing the web I have noticed in white space on webpages that I can see "snow", "fuzz", or "static"? Not sure what to call it but it appears to be tiny spots in I would say maybe red/pink color? My video and pictures/display still look crisp and clean, but this "snow" is really noticeable in white space. Is this a GPU problem? For reference my new PC specs: R9 280X by MSI i5 Haswell MSI Z87 G45 mobo Win8 and the monitor I am currently using is a AOC 24" LED monitor bought 3 years ago This "snow" is only in white space, and it doesn't matter if it is a browser or a blank canvas in Paint. Any ideas of what to look for to correct this? All my drivers should be up to date as I've gone in and manually redownloaded them all today to see if that would fix the issue. I am using the AMD beta drivers for GPU. Thanks.
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Dec 30, 2013 01:17
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Check your video cable is plugged in securely at both ends
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Dec 30, 2013 01:19
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dissss posted:Check your video cable is plugged in securely at both ends I've plugged and unplugged them once today...even changed plugs to an alternate I had. It still comes and goes. Are you saying it is more than likely monitor related and NOT PC? I'd rather hear you say that as I can always buy a new monitor but don't want to deal with RMAs...
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Dec 30, 2013 01:25
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OssiansFolly posted:I've plugged and unplugged them once today...even changed plugs to an alternate I had. It still comes and goes. Are you saying it is more than likely monitor related and NOT PC? I'd rather hear you say that as I can always buy a new monitor but don't want to deal with RMAs... Take a picture with your camera phone?
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Dec 30, 2013 01:50
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Rawrbomb posted:Take a picture with your camera phone? I doubt you will be able to see the "snow"...I will try though.
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Dec 30, 2013 02:02
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OssiansFolly posted:I've plugged and unplugged them once today...even changed plugs to an alternate I had. It still comes and goes. Are you saying it is more than likely monitor related and NOT PC? I'd rather hear you say that as I can always buy a new monitor but don't want to deal with RMAs... The way to tell if it's your monitor or not is to take a screenshot in your OS and post it here.
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Dec 30, 2013 02:10
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 Well do you guys see the "snow"?
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Dec 30, 2013 02:14
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Looks fine to me.
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Dec 30, 2013 02:31
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Yip Yips posted:Looks fine to me. Alright then I will have to start looking at monitors. Thanks for the help.
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Dec 30, 2013 02:36
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OssiansFolly posted:Alright then I will have to start looking at monitors. Thanks for the help. I'd suggest trying another cable before replacing the monitor personally.
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Dec 30, 2013 02:49
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Geoj posted:Unless you're on a very tight budget I would just buy a new card capable of supporting three displays (probably means AMD-based.) A mid-range card based on current architecture will easily outperform a top-end card based on nearly 4 year old architecture. Just wanted to say thanks to you and the others! Ended up ordering a 5850 and should have this whole rig ready in another few days (oh god please no more issues).
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Dec 30, 2013 05:33
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