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kastein posted:Check the relay, on late models it is on the hvac box behind the glovebox. The two rubber stoppers pull out downward and then the glovebox tips all the way out and it is right there. Swell. Hopefully I can replace that when I get home as I have to drive across town in -20 and blowing snow. What kind of relay is it? Easy to pick up at a Napa or maybe steal from another circuit?
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Dec 27, 2013 22:31
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Regular ol' bosch 4 pin / 5 pin style. The fuses and wiring harness are about the only other possibilities.
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Dec 28, 2013 00:08
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just replaced the starter in my CJ-7 last night Aforementioned cj7: 4.5" BDS lift, 4.56 gears, ARB lockers, 33x10.5r15 tires.
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Dec 28, 2013 17:21
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Welp, no Jeep for me today- went to look at that 99 I've been eyeballing, turns out the freeze-plugs between the engine and tranny are leaking. This isn't a deal breaker but they would NOT budge on the price. loving 3 grand for a 240K mile vehicle with leaking freeze plugs and ZERO options beyond the automatic is not a loving good price. The search continues.
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Dec 28, 2013 19:08
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Is there some definable reason that the jeep community dislikes the coil on plug setup of 00 and 01 XJs? Is it mostly a prejudice against technology or is it actually a badly implemented version of what should have been an upgrade?
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Dec 28, 2013 21:37
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It implies a lovely head casting that's known to fail, and also makes substituting an earlier head casting that never fails for the lovely one more annoying than it needs to be.
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Dec 28, 2013 22:00
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I gotcha. So with my donor 00, it would behoove me to go ahead and ditch the maligned head, and switch to a distributor ignition? Are there any proven options for a head that keeps the coil on plug or is it just not worth it? Having the motor built is also on the table, but not planning for that until I have a handle on the cost of the project. Just want to know what I can do at a minimum to have a reliable engine at this point. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Dec 28, 2013 |
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Dec 28, 2013 22:16
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE-1G84pedQ I hadn't driven Sandbagger since snowfall so I though I might warm up the engine today. It doesn't sound any WORSE than it did this summer so I guess I've got that going for me.
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Dec 28, 2013 23:19
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angryrobots posted:I gotcha. So with my donor 00, it would behoove me to go ahead and ditch the maligned head, and switch to a distributor ignition? Are there any proven options for a head that keeps the coil on plug or is it just not worth it? There are head castings that fit perfectly, you just need to make sure it has "TUPY" stamped between cylinders 3 and 4. They come from 2003-4 engines.
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Dec 29, 2013 02:03
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Came back from my trip and my blower magically works again. I'm guessing it was the relay, is there any way to test it to see if its going bad? edit: Replaced the relay just to be on the safe side, it was kinda hot and some of the connectors looked kinda corroded. Hasn't shat out on me again so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Turns out that the blower motor just doesn't like to work on thursdays, I think (died again today). I'll give it that one day if it works well the rest of the week, nobody is perfect. Seriously though no heat in Minnesota winter sucks. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 2, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2013 02:40
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I just got done doing the Peugeot to AX-15 swap in my MJ, or so I thought. The god drat mother loving rear end oval office clutch isn't engaging. I can row it through the gears with the engine running and my foot off the clutch. The transfer case is in gear, I checked. I made sure to put the clutch in the right way but I guess I hosed up somehow. I get I get to spend another day on my back in the cold under a lovely truck. Anyone encountered something like this? Think I put the clutch disk in backwards? Is there something else that could cause this? It's an internal slave AX-15. The clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder are brand new.
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Jan 2, 2014 04:59
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Usually the clutch disc being in backwards causes a noise like a nasty rod knock or something grinding in the bellhousing. A few questions... I'm not sure, but is there a different flywheel for BA-10/5 vs AX-15? What app did you use to look up the pressure plate? BA-10/5 or AX-15? I'm guessing you want the latter, if they are different. Same question for the clutch disc. Internal slave means no concerns about whether you remembered to put the TOB on the clutch fork, I guess. Can you feel the tranny shift when you put it in gear? If you can, it's spinning the input of the transmission, if you can't, it's not, which tells you whether you have a transmission/transfer case problem (can feel the teeth of the synchros etc when shifting) or a clutch engagement problem (can't feel them, because the tranny is never spinning.) Also, what did you do about the transfer case input gear? All AX-15s are 23 spline output as I recall, and all BA-10/5s are 21 spline, which means you either swapped your input gear or transfer case to a 23 spline I guess? All sorta shots in the dark, I haven't had a problem like that before. Well, I did helping a friend with an engine swap in his XJ, and yeah, it took him two days to remember he'd put the drat transfer case in neutral to push it into the shop. But you already checked that.
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Jan 2, 2014 05:14
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kastein posted:Usually the clutch disc being in backwards causes a noise like a nasty rod knock or something grinding in the bellhousing. No grinding/knocking noise as far as I can tell. The clutch kit is for a '91. AFAIK, the only things that change year to year are the pilot bearing and slave cylinder. I used a bronze pilot bushing for an early 70's CJ as per internet consensus. My research leads me to believe all 4.0's use the same clutch disk and pressure plate. The trans doesn't seem to be spinning at all. I let it roll a bit in neutral and tried putting it into reverse while rolling and I could feel it grinding so there is a connection from the wheels to the output shaft of the transmission. I did play around with it when I first got it, turning the input shaft by hand in different gears so I'm pretty confident that the issue is the clutch assembly. I'm using the transfer case that came bolted to the AX15. Thanks for the input. Sigh. I'm just pissed about having to waste another day on this loving thing. User Error fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Jan 2, 2014 |
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Jan 2, 2014 05:40
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Sure sounds like it... all your logic sounds pretty solid. There is a change in the flywheel, 4cyl and 6cyl use different ones and 90 down vs 91 up definitely use different ones, all due to the crank flange being different (4cyl vs 6cyl, 6cyl uses the AMC I6/V8 pattern while 4cyl uses the GM 60 degree/small corp metric pattern iirc) and the crank position sensor reluctor pulse trigger wheel pattern being different (90 down RENIX vs 91 up SBEC/JTEC.) I just wasn't sure if there might have been a flywheel thickness difference between pukegoat and aisin equipped vehicles. It sounds like either the clutch disc is simply too thin, the pressure plate is wrong/defective, the slave cylinder is wrong, or maybe the clutch disc splined hole is too large to fit the input shaft on the tranny. That's extremely unlikely though, aside from the NSG370 Mercedes sourced 6 speed, all the jeep mantrans I'm aware of use the same old AMC 10 spline input shaft/clutch disc. I'd bet on a defective pressure plate, a too thin or defective clutch disc, or a screwed up slave cylinder maybe... perhaps it's stuck on something and is jammed fully extended? How does the clutch pedal feel?
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Jan 2, 2014 06:33
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Are there any 4-4.5 inch lift kits that don't come with transfer case drop spacers and adjustable control arms? I'm starting to think that I'll have to piecemeal the majority of this.
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Jan 2, 2014 20:21
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I have what may be a dumb question. Are there any comprehensive service manuals for the '12 JK, as my knowledge of maintenance for vehicles is limited to changing tires and oil, outside of PMCS stuff and FM's I used in the army, I have no real idea of what the hell I'm doing. I'd like to learn how to work on my jeep and not gently caress everything up by mucking about.
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Jan 4, 2014 20:24
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Pine Cone Jones posted:I have what may be a dumb question. Are there any comprehensive service manuals for the '12 JK, as my knowledge of maintenance for vehicles is limited to changing tires and oil, outside of PMCS stuff and FM's I used in the army, I have no real idea of what the hell I'm doing. I'd like to learn how to work on my jeep and not gently caress everything up by mucking about. Not sure of the legality, but I don't work on cars without these now. Even if it's a friend's car, it's worth having. The difference between these and, say, a Chilton or Haynes is simply astounding. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 20:26
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That's an owner's manual, not a shop manual. The owner's manual is FREE as a searchable pdf on Jeep's website, don't loving buy it off ebay. Alldata has I think the factory manual available, but it's expensive. I'm sure there are other, cheaper, less legal ways to find the data. As far as the usual Chilton's/Haynes books I don't think they're out yet for the 12+ Wranglers. It usually takes a couple of years before they start showing up on shelves, and there still aren't any at my local store as of yesterday (looked when I stopped in for wiper blades).
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Jan 4, 2014 20:35
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Ah, poo poo, I didn't look at that carefully enough. The shop manuals are what I was going for, and they're available usually on ebay.
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Jan 4, 2014 20:36
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Factory service manuals for modern cars are kind of annoying for the home mechanic. Everything dealing with the engine is usually: Step 1: Hook car up to $20k factory service computer Step 2: Run full diagnostic and tweak settings to fix the problem
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Jan 4, 2014 21:50
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Hmmm. Interesting. My newest vehicle (actually, both of them) are 13 years old, so I haven't run into that problem. What are the correct/ideal attachment points for rocksliders on an XJ?
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Jan 4, 2014 23:02
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Krakkles posted:Hmmm. Interesting. My newest vehicle (actually, both of them) are 13 years old, so I haven't run into that problem. http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showthread.php?105565-Extrem-XJ-Rocker-replacement Only worthwhile thing to do really.
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Jan 4, 2014 23:51
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Thanks for the help, I had called Haynes friday and unfortunately they didn't have one out yet for the '12 JK. Outside of basic stuff I'm not too worried right now, I'd just like something further down the road as I plan to hold onto my upended dishwasher as long as it'll drive, or the diesel wranglers come out.
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Jan 5, 2014 00:20
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Pine Cone Jones posted:I had called Haynes friday and unfortunately they didn't have one out yet for the '12 JK. Dodged a bullet there.
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Jan 5, 2014 00:57
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Round loving four on the trans cooler fitting.OneOverZero posted:More radiator chat! Champion sent me another set of fittings (brass), this time with the correct tubing diameter and quick disconnect, though the new one won't seal for poo poo. Either the flare isn't wide enough to be constrained by the tube nut or the bubble machined into the female radiator connection isn't pronounced enough. Either way, there's ~1mm of play in the tube once installed, so there's no way the flare will even seal. New fitting above, old wonky-diameter fitting below:  This thing has been parked for weeks in need of the correct hardware. Either I scrap this new rad or shell out for a trans cooler, which I really don't feel like dealing with at the moment, especially since I'd be bypassing the inherent conductive warm-up cycle of the integrated cooler. Is there a US manufacturer for <$500 XJ radiators? Every step I take, I'm shot down by Chinese quality control. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jan 5, 2014 |
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Jan 5, 2014 02:17
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I've replaced the radiator in my '01 XJ and need the lower trans cooler line fitting, visible
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Have you tried using the flare nut itself as the tubing bender? It's ghetto as hell, but I've done just that in dire straits such as what you're in right now. Wrap the threads with a few layers of electrical tape, grab the flats with a vise grip such that the threads are pointing almost into the throat of the vise grips (slightly off to the side so the excess tube with the flare already on it can pass the vise grips), move the nut to where the bend starts, bend slightly, move slightly closer to the flare, bend slightly again, repeat as necessary. This  trick brought to you by rear end in a top hat car manufacturers and "gently caress it, nothing else will work, and it's a $10 piece of preflared line" late one Saturday night after the parts store was closed.
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Jan 5, 2014 03:22
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I ordered a nice aluminum Champion replacement once (not their American Eagle Chinese knock-off)...wouldn't fit because the lower trans tube line would hit part of the support. Okay, bypass that to my external trans cooler. What's that? Now the radiator cap won't fit because the neck is so jammed up against the header that I can't even turn it? I mean I could have made it work by hacking some stuff up with my angle grinder, but gently caress that, I shouldn't have to after what I paid for it. Sold that piece of poo poo and got a cheaper CSF instead that performs just as well.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:15
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kastein posted:This  Philip J Fry posted:I ordered a nice aluminum Champion replacement once (not their American Eagle Chinese knock-off)...wouldn't fit because the lower trans tube line would hit part of the support. Okay, bypass that to my external trans cooler. What's that? Now the radiator cap won't fit because the neck is so jammed up against the header that I can't even turn it? At this point, I'm game to see if I can get the shop I bought this thing from to accept a return, even on my own dime. I did a lot of searching around versus the CSF units prior to buying this, but I'm rapidly losing faith.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:31
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Yeah, this was supposed to go CW and seal somehow. And this is the starting position.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:37
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That's where the vise grips come in. Mechanical advantage in infinitely-adjustable form.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:37
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Do any of you guys know the secret to replacing a late model xj blower motor with one whose fan does not shatter upon starting it for the first time? We've bought two new blower motor/fan units and the fan on both has shattered as soon as you turn it on. So loving frustrating.
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Jan 5, 2014 15:40
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Do any of you guys know the secret to replacing a late model xj blower motor with one whose fan does not shatter upon starting it for the first time? We've bought two new blower motor/fan units and the fan on both has shattered as soon as you turn it on. So loving frustrating. I went through I think three impellers (Four Seasons or something) on my '90 before just reverting to an OE part.
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Jan 5, 2014 21:12
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Philip J Fry posted:Yeah, this was supposed to go CW and seal somehow. And this is the starting position.  
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Jan 6, 2014 05:15
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Yo kastein, or any other Cherokee drivers out there, I can use a quick favor. A few pages back, I was trying to diagnose an intermittent no-start at key turn. My guess was NSS, and after that, the ignition switch. The old woman must have heard me complaining, because I have only been able to replicate the problem once since I mentioned it. Anyway, when I usually have to shift into reverse and move about 10 or 20 feet to get the reverse lights to come on. I could use some input from another driver to see if this behavior is normal. So tell me guys, do you have to roll to get your reverse lights to turn on, or do they come on automatically? And thanks.
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Jan 6, 2014 08:13
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Instead of crossposting I thought I'd just leave these here in the Jeep thread. Photos taken from a recent trip to the Petersen museum here in LA.   While not a jeep, still a much loved idea.    bonus: 
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Jan 6, 2014 09:19
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Horse Divorce posted:Yo kastein, or any other Cherokee drivers out there, I can use a quick favor. Have not seen that behavior with my 99 XJ. When I shift into R in my automatic, the lights immediately come on.
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Jan 6, 2014 09:21
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Horse Divorce posted:Yo kastein, or any other Cherokee drivers out there, I can use a quick favor. I think that would point to the NSS if you're lights are having issues coming on in reverse. Take it off and clean it, just hope you don't break it off like I did, not a cheap part.
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Jan 6, 2014 10:03
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 Well I'm glad someone got one that worked. I made up for the advantages of aluminum with some hood vents and triple electric fans (not that it gets too crazy hot in the PNW but still, you never know when a 4.0 might go supernova...) Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Jan 6, 2014 |
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Jan 6, 2014 13:00
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Philip J Fry posted:
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Jan 6, 2014 13:10
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Yeah if your reverse lights take that long to come on, you have an NSS issue, unless the transmission also sometimes doesn't like shifting manually, in which case your linkage may be misadjusted and putting the shift arm on the edge of a detent instead of the center or something. If it doesn't come off nicely (salt belt = it won't!) it will run you around $140 for a Crown Automotive one iirc and probably a bit more elsewhere. Check rockauto as usual.
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Jan 6, 2014 15:08
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