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I'd recommend changing the servo. Better safe than sorry, and a metal gear servo isn't very expensive. The 113s are great servos but I have had a few duds.
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Dec 29, 2013 23:19
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Yeah, already browsing at HK to see what else I should order :P. It'll be at least 2-3 weeks before I can take it up anyway. I want to rebuild my FT3D and get a few more flights on that, before moving up to the Edge...but my friendly local laser cutter dude is on vacation, so I'll have to wait until he comes back. I mostly need it to practice take-offs and landings, as while my Crack Pitts Mini is great for learning stuff on, it does not teach you how to land!.
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Dec 29, 2013 23:26
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Yeah, already browsing at HK to see what else I should order :P. Landings are particularly difficult with 3D planes because you need to land with power on. The good thing is you can generally reduce speed so much that a bad landing isn't going to damage much (you pretty much land in a harrier).
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Dec 29, 2013 23:35
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Mantle posted:How are the third party batteries working? Can you charge them with the Syma USB lead? Working great. No issues at all. And when I ordered the battery I made sure to get jst connectors which is what the stock battery has. USB charger that came with the X1 has been charging them fine.
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Dec 30, 2013 00:20
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rotaryfun posted:Working great. No issues at all. And when I ordered the battery I made sure to get jst connectors which is what the stock battery has. USB charger that came with the X1 has been charging them fine. I bought my brother an X1 for Christmas (Which caused me to stumble on Flite Test, and then this thread, and now I am jealous of his X1 and considering getting into RC planes. Oops.) and I saw some talk in Amazon reviews of other batteries about how the USB charger is "dumb" and doesn't know when exactly to cut off. Since you already have a real LiPo charger, I think it might be worth trying to get or make a connector you can use with your real charger. Also, the links and stuff you guys provided for rotary are super helpful and super dangerously enticing. If only I had a nicer workspace to do hobby things in. And a more convenient place to fly.
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Dec 30, 2013 17:13
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Mantle posted:How are the third party batteries working? Can you charge them with the Syma USB lead? Where did you order the batteries? I've already lost one of my X1's spares. I'm also realizing that my X1's hover is way unstable - it really wants to go forward or left, or back, with no real rhyme or reason. Each time it starts to drift I try to trim it in midair, but that does very little. I land it, adjust the trim, and it seems to drastically react. Even if I do just one or two trim beeps in a direction, it goes way off-base. Is there anything else I can try? I was thinking of just making a bootleg prop balancing stand and just cleartape-balancing the props. Barnsy posted:I think under 'voltage' for the battery area you should be putting optimal cell load (4.2v) rather than 3.7v. As it is the calculator thinks you're running discharged lipos. That voltage was what the dropdown populated for the battery... if I was to put in this one: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9500__Turnigy_3300mAh_3S_30C_Lipo_Pack.html then should I change the voltage to something other than the default 3.7? Also this may sound dumb, but if I'm doing calculations without drive, should I include the weight for the battery? MJP fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Dec 30, 2013 |
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Dec 30, 2013 17:42
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MJP posted:Where did you order the batteries? I've already lost one of my X1's spares. These are the batteries that I got as extras. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=33259 Are you 100% sure that your putting the x1 down fast enough for the gyros to level? Because I've gotten 2 now (mine, my dad's) and haven't had to even touch the trim buttons. Putting it down level as fast as you can after it's plugged in is critical because the gyro levels out quickly. Also, as soon as I turn it on I put the controller into High mode because Low is basically worthless. It's so slow to respond that it just puts you in trouble right away. And in low mode, any kind of drift basically makes it hard to control because you can't counter whatever drift shows up.
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Dec 30, 2013 18:21
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rotaryfun posted:These are the batteries that I got as extras. Not 100% - I usually have it upside-down to push the battery in. I'll give it a shot later with having it just at barest minimum amount before I put in the battery. I thought the calibration period was strictly the rapid flash, not the steady flash right after it goes in?
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Dec 30, 2013 18:32
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Honestly couldn't tell you when it happens. I've just read about people having similar issues and when they quickly leveled it the problems went away. I put the battery in upside down but just because I've read so many thing online about not hovering, I have always hurried to lay it flat on the ground.
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Dec 30, 2013 19:34
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Just put the battery in most way, then flip it onto a level surface and push it all the way in.
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Dec 30, 2013 20:22
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MJP posted:
Yes you should include the weight, the battery accounts for a major part of the bird's payload. Try putting 4.2V. If you get a more realistic flight time, that's where the issue lies. You should have 4.2 for the 3S lipo as well (same for all lipos).
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Dec 30, 2013 23:51
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Here's my Best FPV of 2013: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDBWo6gKWnk Subscribe for even more in 2014! http://www.youtube.com/user/VitaminJyo Copyright free version http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aXlqPRHcn4 Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Dec 31, 2013 |
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Dec 31, 2013 19:51
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Vitamin J posted:Here's my Best FPV of 2013: Cool video. Looks like you had a fun year. I love the gimbal footage on the skyhunter. Makes me want a bigger plane...
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Jan 1, 2014 04:18
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Yeah, very cool...one day, maybe 
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Jan 1, 2014 07:54
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Just got back into R/C flying after owning a Blade CX2, MCX2 and various other Syma 107g's etc. for a while. After some research on might be a good next step up I bought a DX8 and Nano QX. I then impulsively bought a Nano CP X about 5 days later to learn more collective pitch. I'm having a lot of fun with it so far, not regretting the purchases yet! The Nano QX is insanely fun to fly, it's so stable and precise and the ability to fly in two modes makes it that much more awesome. I am almost able to fly my Nano CPX in small circles in my living room after about 30 packs through it. Although unfortunately the tail motor is developing a twitch now. The learning process is really fun. I'm tempted to get Phoenix 4 eventually but I've been reading through this thread a lot and I'm seeing mixed opinions. I've only spent like 2 minutes on it at a local hobby store and the physics definitely don't feel 100%, but I could see how it could be an amazing learning tool. I feel maybe I should be trying inverted flight on Phoenix first. Do I need a simulator to learn inverted flight? Any advice would be great. Vitamin J posted:Here's my Best FPV of 2013: I've checked out a good amount of your videos as I browsed through the thread, and they made me want to learn airplanes and make an FPV system badly! Cool setups man. Opinionated fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jan 2, 2014 |
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Jan 2, 2014 03:40
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Barnsy posted:Try putting 4.2V. If you get a more realistic flight time, that's where the issue lies. You should have 4.2 for the 3S lipo as well (same for all lipos). The default values in ecalc are correct. It does the calculations based on charged batteries and you can select from fully normal or low in the box right next to the battery capacity box. If he is getting results under 4 minutes and seeing low voltages it is because of the load. A 6 lb quad as speced out will need a ton of power. Perhaps a diet will improve the flight times or a more suitable power system.
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Jan 2, 2014 04:01
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Opinionated posted:Just got back into R/C flying after owning a Blade CX2, MCX2 and various other Syma 107g's etc. for a while. After some research on might be a good next step up I bought a DX8 and Nano QX. I then impulsively bought a Nano CP X about 5 days later to learn more collective pitch. I'm having a lot of fun with it so far, not regretting the purchases yet! The Nano is really good fun, but eventually the brushed motors give out and it can't fly well anymore. It's certainly great for learning, but you'll realize that it's very twitchy as you move into larger helis. If you're still hesitant to move on to a 450 or so heli, the brushless mcpx is a great little flier to move up to, it's similar to the Nano but with more power and stability. Phoenix 4 is almost a necessity if you're interested in 3D flight with helis. The physics aren't dead on, but the difficult thing with helis is the orientation. Once you get the orientations on the sim, it becomes a whole lot easy to get the real thing to fly how you want it. Barnsy fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jan 2, 2014 |
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Jan 2, 2014 14:08
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Got a flitetest Spitfire speed build kit from my sister for Christmas. Man are the kits so much easier/quicker to put together. Not having to transfer plans is awesome. When I was putting the wing together, I immediately noticed how much larger this thing was going to be compared to the other 2 swappables that I've already made.  Not 100% but getting close. Can't wait for a nice day to get out and fly. It'll be the biggest thing I'll have flown so far. 
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Jan 2, 2014 14:19
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Barnsy posted:The Nano is really good fun, but eventually the brushed motors give out and it can't fly well anymore. It's certainly great for learning, but you'll realize that it's very twitchy as you move into larger helis. If you're still hesitant to move on to a 450 or so heli, the brushless mcpx is a great little flier to move up to, it's similar to the Nano but with more power and stability. Where should you go from the Nano if you want to stay in quads? For whatever reason I like the idea of flying quadcopters much more than the idea of flying "regular" copters.
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Jan 2, 2014 17:36
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Build your next quad. Start by picking out a frame and then finding other peoples builds of it to base your power selections on. Building and tuning a quad is very satisfying, and really not that hard once you learn how everything works.
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Jan 2, 2014 22:26
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ease posted:Build your next quad. Start by picking out a frame and then finding other peoples builds of it to base your power selections on. Building and tuning a quad is very satisfying, and really not that hard once you learn how everything works. I agree with this: building a quad is pretty fun and you'll save money compared to a RTF model.
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Jan 2, 2014 22:51
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Absolutely build your own. You can decide on the flight controller based on the features you want. If you just want a fly around quad get a KK2 if you want to start getting into automation etc you could look at the apm etc. Make sure you look at replacement parts and repairability for the frame. Being able to just swap an arm when you crash it makes life a lot easier than having to start from scratch with some all in one design.
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Jan 2, 2014 22:57
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So, I might have been a little reckless flying my Nano QX today, and ran it into a wall a little more quickly than the blade guards could handle. How do you go about replacing one of the motors? I think the motor got burned out because a hair got wrapped around it and I tried to fly it once before catching that, but it might have been damaged by knocking it into a wall. It's not clear but either way I should have been more careful, I know. It looks like you just pull them out and pop the new ones in? That seems way too easy... Arcturas fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 3, 2014 |
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Jan 3, 2014 03:12
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Quick question: Got my y adapter from lazertoys.com and used it when setting up my new spitfire. However, when I turned it on for the first time to center the servos I noticed one of the ailerons not responding. Also a slight burning electronics smell coming from the same. I looked at the y adapter and noticed that the leads on that side of the y were reversed (red/black wires). Did this burn up or short my servo or was this something else? The servo did work correctly before installing it in the plane. Picture of the y adapter 
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Jan 3, 2014 04:53
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Thank you for the info Barnsy, appreciate it.Arcturas posted:So, I might have been a little reckless flying my Nano QX today, and ran it into a wall a little more quickly than the blade guards could handle. How do you go about replacing one of the motors? I think it's just that simple. You just have to get the right motor whether it's a CW or CCW motor. I've also heard a new engine might cause a little issue with it being new and the other 3 being older, but I've yet to see for myself. I ordered a new frame and 4 new motors, supposedly off a brand new Nano for 24 dollars on Ebay. It appears the guy is all out of them now. Also be careful with the wiring as I tried to remove a blade on my Nano before and snapped the wires on the motor as the motor came loose. I think my blades came glued on or they are just ridiculously hard to get off. Fortunately I was able to just rewire the motor but it was not a good feeling!
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Jan 3, 2014 04:57
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Yeah, I managed to get a blade off, but that was tough.
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Jan 3, 2014 05:03
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rotaryfun posted:Quick question: Yup, reversed DC polarity casts the spell to release the magic smoke. You're probably going to need a new servo for that side. If you replace it with a different brand, I suggest replacing both paired servos so they stay the same relative response time & angle.
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Jan 3, 2014 05:12
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So should I not be using that y adapter? Can I pop the 2 pieces out and swap them to line up the red/black? Why would they ship it that way? They sent me 2 and they're both like that. I did try connecting the smoked servo just straight to the receiver to test it after without the y and it still didn't work... trash? rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jan 3, 2014 |
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Jan 3, 2014 05:19
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Not sure, but to reverse a servo you need one of these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17033__Turnigy_Servo_Signal_Reverser.html?strSearch=servo%20rever (And still, the y-cable shouldn't have red/black flipped).
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Jan 3, 2014 05:28
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rotaryfun posted:So should I not be using that y adapter? Can I pop the 2 pieces out and swap them to line up the red/black? Why would they ship it that way? They sent me 2 and they're both like that. Yup trash. The y cable was defective. Santa's elves must have been working overtime in Guangzhou and hosed up the order.
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Jan 3, 2014 07:28
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I've had three things now from HK with hosed up wiring harnesses. I always double check them now. Two things fried and the last was a boardcam that I thought was faulty until I tried it in my own wiring harness and realized there was a short between signal and ground in one of the supplied cables connections. I guess wiring is one area where the lack of QC can really bite you in the rear end.
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Jan 3, 2014 11:51
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rotaryfun posted:So should I not be using that y adapter? Can I pop the 2 pieces out and swap them to line up the red/black? Yes to both questions. Try using a No.11 Exacto blade to lift up the little plastic tabs that hold the ends in place. They should easily pull out. If your cable end has no plastic tabs keeping the leads in place then you're poo poo out of luck 
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Jan 3, 2014 17:20
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Widdershins posted:Yes to both questions. Yeah they crossed the wires inside one of the male sockets, so he would have to take the socket housing apart to get at it... Probably easier to just get another y-harness.
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Jan 3, 2014 17:57
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I'd have to order a new one. As they sent me 2 with the exact same issue problem. I'm thinking about just using 2 channels instead of a y adapter. How hard is that to program in the 9xr? I've tried finding examples online but haven't had luck. I imagine I just plug into aux on the receiver and then mix that in right?
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Jan 3, 2014 18:08
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Hopefully the parts for my Phantom will be here by Monday or so. I'd like to try out attaching the GoPro to it. Paddle faster, China-to-America shipping guy!
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Jan 3, 2014 18:29
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rotaryfun posted:I'd have to order a new one. As they sent me 2 with the exact same issue problem. Yep. Simply set the new channel to the same input as the other one.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:34
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I guess I'm confused as to how I identify that channel on the controller. I plug the servo into aux on the receiver, but how to I tie the aux channel from receiver to something on the controller?
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Jan 3, 2014 18:36
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rotaryfun posted:I guess I'm confused as to how I identify that channel on the controller. I plug the servo into aux on the receiver, but how to I tie the aux channel from receiver to something on the controller? Your controller will have an AUX channel programming setting. What remote do you have?
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Jan 4, 2014 01:10
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rotaryfun posted:I guess I'm confused as to how I identify that channel on the controller. I plug the servo into aux on the receiver, but how to I tie the aux channel from receiver to something on the controller? Turnigy 9XR Manual PDF WARNING I think what you'll want to look at is page 24 and 25. Maybe?
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Jan 4, 2014 01:55
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If you have the Orange DSM2 RX/TX it'll be CH5 or 6
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Jan 4, 2014 02:02
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