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Fucknag posted:Bro, you got those fancy heatshrink butt connectors, get yourself a heat gun (or be reeeeaaaaaaal careful with a lighter) and seal 'em up; you don't wanna do this job again after a winter's worth of road salt corrodes the ends of those wires. Yeah also the size is way too big for the OEM side. I just wrapped it back up in the plastic shroud and taped it until I rebuild my OEM alternator, or figure out what's going on here. At the very least I'm going to redo it with butt splices with two different gauges on either end. Most likely I'm ordering an OEM one cause I don't want to do this again when the autozone rebuild shits itself.
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Dec 26, 2013 15:54
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Tried to fire up my ebay Eberspacher heater in my landrover for the first time and found that it wont start  Hopefully my battery is just too flat (it has sat for 3 months so fingers crossed!) and it isn't faulty. You can't even read the codes off its ECU without the special code reader either I shall ring round some of the local chandlers tomorrow and see if any of them have a diagnostic reader.
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Dec 27, 2013 20:44
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Scrapped it. Good riddance to bad garbage.
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Dec 27, 2013 22:06
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Fucknag posted:Scrapped it. Oh poo poo, what's next?
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Dec 27, 2013 23:37
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Finally put the 04 STI takeoffs into the '03 TS daily driver NA beater. I sold every other car over the summer so this is it for car work for me for the time being. I spend a lot of time thinking about what I want to get next, but these aren't terrible cars. 170 ft-lb of torque makes fourth gear a giggle. Last summer I picked up two sets of 04 STI struts, two sets of 04 STI springs and a set of Tein S-Techs, along with one set of 04 STI tophats. The rest of the summer was spent dismantling, inspecting and greasing the rear struts. One of the rear cartridges was totally dead and another rear strut turned out to be from a WRX and wasn't even inverted. The rears were drilled and tapped for Zerk fittings so that they could be regreased as needed, as the housings had worn their brass bushings down to the point that they were leaking grease under compression (as any high-mileage inverted damper on an STI does) and there needed to be a way to refill it with grease. After several trips to my buddy's house the struts were assembled and ready to be paired with springs and top hats and then lobbed into the car. To make up for the fact that I was putting sedan suspension into a wagon, I added 1/2" Paranoid Fabrications spacers and extended studs to level out the rake. Fun fact: the studs for a Subaru strut tophat are the same as the wheel studs for a Geo Metro. In the Subaru, you must only torque the nut that holds these studs to the body at 14.5 ft-lb. I am never driving a Geo Metro again. Took this artsy-fartsy picture that I feel contrasts the salty, rusty, dented PO mess that is my daily driver with the nice bright STI suspension in the background. I've just recently got the cheque from the responsible party for the drivers' side mirror and am waiting to get the glass from a friend before I do the work. I can kinda still see behind me if I use the right broken shard of glass... I do a lot of shoulder checks.  The problem that precipitated this mess was that the rear struts were totally dead and clunked like a furious bastard. After dropping them out of the car they both vaguely looked like this. They went in the trash without any further disassembly, because gently caress putting spring compressors on that gross poo poo to get a pair of $25 93-03 strut tops into my spare parts pile. The front struts weren't a lot better, but they weren't audibly clunking so I thought they were better off than they ended up being. Those joined the rears in the dumpster.  Then we finally replaced that bastard PCV valve. I tried to do it a few months ago (when it was warm) and hot drat that bastard was a huge pain in the rear end. At some point Subaru laid into some phenomenal crack and decided to make the PCV thread into a press-fit pedestal into the top of the crankcase. That means that if you cranked on the PCV hard enough when it was stuck into the threads, it would turn the pedestal and nothing would happen. I tried with a half dozen different techniques to hold the pedestal still and then crank on the PCV with a breaker bar (it has a 21mm wrench flat, just to taunt you) before we finally hit upon using a 22mm wrench (because neither of us had a 21mm) and an air impact to pop it loose. Replacing it took me from massive crankcase blowby to actual crankcase vacuum at idle. The valve in the old PCV still rattled, but before the valve, on the crankcase side, was solid caked on oil, laid on layer after layer with crankcase pressure. I took a dentist pick to the built up oil and nothing happened. I wisely threw it in the trash, closing this chapter of my life. The new one got a dose of Teflon tape and went right in.  I also replaced a tail light bulb but hopefully nobody wants pictures of that. The STI suspension feels really good, if a little bobble-heady which the stock 04 suspension is known for. Maybe I'll replace them with used RCE Blacks and a revalve or something over the summer, but for now I'm pretty happy. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Dec 28, 2013 |
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Dec 28, 2013 02:14
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Rhyno posted:Oh poo poo, what's next? Crawl out of my depression for the Nth time and get the Protege sorted; still have to pull the motor and re-do what I think is the rear main seal leaking, though there's a remote possibility it's the slave cylinder (clutch still feels strong so I doubt it, but we'll see.) In the meantime my mom has her new car, so I'm driving the Lexus for the time being, which we'll sell once the Mazda's back on the road.
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Dec 28, 2013 03:08
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Crossposting from the MZR thread... Swapping a junkyard Ford Duratec 2.3 into my wife's Mazda 6. Her engine somehow got out of time enough (probably a VCT malfunction) that the intake valves smacked the pistons in 3 out of 4 cylinders. Ford's Duratecs are licensed reproductions of Mazda L engines so the two are pretty much 98% identical, the only parts we had to swap were the valve cover, side timing cover, intake cam and oil pan.
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Dec 28, 2013 05:57
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Spent hours inside scrubbing down the leather with some cleaner and then followed up with some leather conditioner (Lexol brand for both). The rear seat head rests feel so much better and are no longer 'sunburned' feeling and the seats grip you much better than sliding around. BMW murdered at least 10 cows per car I swear there was so much effing leather. I feel much better about the cold dry air on it though.
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Dec 28, 2013 06:37
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Made an iphone bracket for my Aygo out of a bit of universal exhaust bracket strapping (sprayed black). It bolts onto one of the steering column bolts then runs round the trim so that I didn't have to cut any holes. It also moves with the column adjustment. I did buy one of these but it was poo poo and wouldn't stay put. Mine is better   I also welded up all the cracks in the frame of the rear door of my landy then fitted the spare wheel to it using some M16 threaded bar (through a big spreader plate) and then adjusted the latch so it actually stayed closed. It feels much nicer with the weight on it. 
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Dec 28, 2013 21:23
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Washed the Civic Si. Halfway through my hose nozzle decided it didn't want to do that anymore (be a nozzle) so I had to finish rinsing by bucket because I couldn't get the motherfucking nozzle off the hose. Love it. I go through a nozzle per year, somehow. $1 nozzle, $10 nozzle - doesn't matter: I only get a year's worth out of any of them.
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Dec 28, 2013 23:32
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Got it out of the garage: After getting it running a few days ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zk9BHf9VpPA The engines in these older Volvos are amazing. I didn't touch the bottom end, but even though it has 240K on it and it was horribly overheated it still started on the first crank. I still need to replace a few vacuum hoses and double-check the torque on a few nuts on the exhaust, but considering that this is the first headgasket replacement I've done I'm pretty happy with the outcome. 
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Dec 29, 2013 01:22
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Crustashio posted:M3 has never seen a winter so an an impact + a few wobble extensions make quick work of those. On my rusty 328 I had to cut the midpipe off below the headers because the nuts rounded off instantly. So I'm finally at the stage of getting the transmission out of the car. I managed to get a socket and breaker bar to hold the starter nuts and all of the bolts I can see are out. However the transmission continues to be stubborn and seems to be held in by what I think is a dowel above the starter. Does this seem right? There isn't a bolt shown on any diagrams I can find and can't see anything there (though it is tough to see). EDIT: I re-adjusted the angle of the engine and tranny and it came off fine.  Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Dec 30, 2013 |
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Dec 30, 2013 20:10
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Installed this today http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MEXBT3100P-Bluetooth-Digital-Receiver/dp/B0090EC7BM  havent really gotten a chance to mess with it yet but the sound quality is definitely better than my previous sony HU... and its going to be very nice not to have to always remember to unplug my phone every time I leave the car. quite a bargain for the features it has... I paid $180 for a clarion head unit that had basically the same features, without any form of a disc player
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Dec 31, 2013 06:36
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In a similar vein, I installed this: http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/25/121/61/DEH-X6600DAB/page.html  DAB digital radio (Absolute Radio 80's and PlanetRock in the car, yay!), iPod/Android control, customisable colour, so it matches the orange of the Alfa's dash. My year-old plus 4 days Philips head unit control knob was borked and unfixable, so Halfords exchanged it for the Pioneer, plus £20. Also fixed the headlight washers - for some reason Alfa seemed to have plumbed them in with fuel hose - so that's all been replaced with 8mm bore silicon tubing and a new NRV. reddeathdrinker fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Dec 31, 2013 |
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Dec 31, 2013 07:24
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reddeathdrinker posted:In a similar vein, I installed this: Oh man I like the look of that front face a lot... Much classier than mine. I went for a quick drive tonight and I was bathed in blue light... Not a good look. drukqs posted:Installed this today Sound quality is absolutely unreal. Not even going to bother changing the EQ settings, its fine as-is. So much better than the Xplod I'm about to dumpsterize or donate to a friend... Its nutty. Only $120 too.
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Dec 31, 2013 09:58
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drukqs posted:Installed this today I've got the MEX-GS600BT ready to go in my GMC once I get the wiring sorted, and I've had a BT2800 in my Ranger for closing in on three years. No complaints here!
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Dec 31, 2013 20:16
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drukqs posted:Oh man I like the look of that front face a lot... Much classier than mine. I went for a quick drive tonight and I was bathed in blue light... Not a good look. General choice these days seems to be bright blue or red faceplates - my old Philips was customisable, which was one of the first things I looked for in a new unit. Philips had a range of preset colours, the Pioneer is infinitely adjustable. Philips was £79, the Pioneer was only £99...
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Dec 31, 2013 22:05
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this morning 8am when the car wouldn't start  my passenger side seatbelt is all loose and it was caught in the door, didn't notice it last night, drained the old battery completely... Was due for replacing anyway, not too mad.
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Dec 31, 2013 22:11
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I'm not really sure you should use a yellow top for a starter battery, they are deep-cycle batteries. Red tops are meant to be drop-in batteries for vehicles.
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Dec 31, 2013 22:13
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EightBit posted:I'm not really sure you should use a yellow top for a starter battery, they are deep-cycle batteries. Red tops are meant to be drop-in batteries for vehicles. Means you get more "Oops, drained the battery!" moments before you've killed it!
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Dec 31, 2013 22:30
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaM7exZmzKY I have a *little* extra load than normal, according to the video "when in doubt use the yellow top" Actually O'Reilly told me the red top was more advanced and intended for people with serious car stereo systems... So they blew that one and I probably bought more battery than I needed.
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Dec 31, 2013 22:35
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Greased up my front sway bar bushings. They were bone dry and creaking like crazy, now they smooth. Forgot to tighten up one of those collar things that allegedly hold the bar in place or something? Ah I'll get that next year.
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Dec 31, 2013 23:48
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drukqs posted:without any form of a disc player I consider that a benefit these days. Kind of lovely that digital media receivers still (inexplicably) command a premium.
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Jan 1, 2014 00:17
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:I consider that a benefit these days. Kind of lovely that digital media receivers still (inexplicably) command a premium. yeah you'd think that without an optical drive I'd get a seriously massive beautiful screen but it was pretty standard... I believe the only added bonus was additional wattage sent out to the component speakers. 35w would be standard this thing did 45 iirc
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Jan 1, 2014 00:20
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Happy Goon Year! I installed the Pioneer double DIN I got my wife for Christmas in her Kia Spectra5. There was nothing really wrong with the factory radio, but she wanted Bluetooth for the phone, and iPod control. It's a little bright, but you can adjust the color to mitigate that. I love the single giant knob in the middle for the primary control. Easy to use while driving. Also replaced the weak power for lock motor in my Cherokee.
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Jan 1, 2014 21:05
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God drat it. ('89 325i dumping coolant all over my carpet)  Was really hoping not to have to replace the valve since the parts dude at the dealer I'm tight with told me it's NLA, but weeeeelp.
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Jan 1, 2014 21:29
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Dudes that have been around a while, I finally got the engine back into the 56 IH. Also got the brakes working, all today.
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Jan 2, 2014 02:06
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Found a nice, local, friendly and reasonably priced garage around the corner from my boyfriend's house and got my winter tyres mounted. They even remembered to give my locking hweel nut key back and remind me the rear pads are worn. 
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Jan 2, 2014 16:25
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I finally figured out what the terrible creaking from my front driver side suspension was. It turns out that heim joints on track bars just LOVE to be lubricated and they start to complain when they get dry. That was a ton of noise from just one little joint. I used powdered graphite and it fixed it right up. Then I washed the mud off of my jeep, hosed the poo poo out of the joint, and hit it with liquid wrench dry lubricant to make sure it is well taken care of.
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Jan 2, 2014 18:04
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Installed a flush kit (plastic T that you hook a garden hose to) and flushed out my heatercore only. On the upside, I blasted some stuff out and had heat for a short time. Still don't have heat, though. Either more debris that was elsewhere in the system came up and got trapped in the heatercore again, or I'm low on antifreeze. I've driven it but not let it cool down enough to see if I need more. Going to check it in the morning and see what it does and go from there.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:53
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drukqs posted:this morning 8am when the car wouldn't start What car is this and where is the rest of your engine?
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Jan 6, 2014 03:06
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shodanjr_gr posted:What car is this and where is the rest of your engine? That's probably why it wouldn't start. "Looks like you've only got half an engine son."
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Jan 6, 2014 03:07
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shodanjr_gr posted:What car is this and where is the rest of your engine? It's on the other end.
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Jan 6, 2014 03:10
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shodanjr_gr posted:What car is this and where is the rest of your engine? Toyota MR2. Engine is in the back.
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Jan 6, 2014 03:11
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Geoj posted:Toyota MR2. Engine is in the back. Ok, mind-gently caress resolved. I assume that there's some removable padding cover thingie that turns that space into a frunk?
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Jan 6, 2014 03:13
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shodanjr_gr posted:I assume that there's some removable padding cover thingie that turns that space into a frunk? Kind of...if you go without your spare you might be able to fit two grocery bags or an overnight bag in the space for it.  e: previous picture was from the wrong generation... Geoj fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 6, 2014 |
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Jan 6, 2014 03:20
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shodanjr_gr posted:Ok, mind-gently caress resolved. I assume that there's some removable padding cover thingie that turns that space into a frunk? Not really. The spare is stored there. There is a small trunk behind the engine on the SW20
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Jan 6, 2014 03:21
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Cleaned it off and filled the gas tank up with fresh 92 octane and HEET additive. Meanwhile charged up the battery and then fired it up for the first time in almost a week. Given the forecast for tomorrow, I figured it would mean much less work in getting it moving this weekend for when I can get the time and space to do the much needed clutch overhaul. Fingers crossed.   Soon. 
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Jan 6, 2014 03:50
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I had some of that teen below weather last month, delightful stuff. You let the engine warm up and the heat blow, then shift into gear and it feels like molasses.
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Jan 6, 2014 03:57
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I moved to an apartment complex and while nice (to me) and having a detached garage... I'm very suddenly demotivated to do any basic work to my car. Like I need to put in one control arm bushing, cut out my old blower motor and put a new one in, put in a new intercooler coupler... are there any Dallas goons that know of a good shop or, something, for this sort of stuff? I'm really dreading this bushing man.
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Jan 6, 2014 15:45
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