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IF you can remove the brake nut using vise-grips without deforming it & the flare, and IF the rounding-off isn't too severe, you may be able to file the faces flat again. It's an extreme long shot. However, it you're at the vise-grip stage, you are probably looking at a cut/new nut/reflare with a double-flaring tool.
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Jan 5, 2014 21:24
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Being that I'm the only person on the loving planet without a proper set of vise-grips (although I do have one of these), I'm seeing a purchase in my near future. Any excuse for another tool, right? I'm not too concerned with cutting it off completely if I have to, though. It will just give me an excuse to replace my old factory brake lines  .
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Jan 5, 2014 22:14
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Being that I'm the only person on the loving planet without a proper set of vise-grips (although I do have one of these), I'm seeing a purchase in my near future. Any excuse for another tool, right? I'm not too concerned with cutting it off completely if I have to, though. It will just give me an excuse to replace my old factory brake lines Also get these, They are amazing http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1388956834&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40
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Jan 5, 2014 22:21
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Geirskogul posted:Also get these, They are amazing Seconded. I end up using this thing at least once a week.
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Jan 6, 2014 00:10
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Seconded. I end up using this thing at least once a week. Thirded, I don't know how I survived for so many years without these.
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Jan 6, 2014 01:51
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How does anyone with a proper spanner set need one of these? It doesn't seem anywhere near as useful as actual vice grips, and can't do anything that channel locks/proper spanner/decent sized normal adjustable can't do.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:34
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Great for plumbing, or to get a better grip on a fastener that a correctly sized wrench is a bit loose on since you can adjust it tight and then lock it down. Basically, some of the benefit of vise grips without nearly as much risk of damage to the fastener. Also useful when you can't bring a whole wrench set for whatever reason.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:42
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Slavvy posted:How does anyone with a proper spanner set need one of these? It doesn't seem anywhere near as useful as actual vice grips, and can't do anything that channel locks/proper spanner/decent sized normal adjustable can't do. I came to ask the exact same question. I can't think of a job where I didn't have the right sized wrench or socket to break it free. Edit:apparently I type slower when eating a popsicle and typing with one hand.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:44
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If rust is a thing that exists in your world having an adjustable wrench is very useful. That nut might have started out perfectly fitting the wrench but it sure as gently caress doesn't fit now. Having it clamp down hard makes it much more useful in that it will actually stay in place unlike a normal adjustable wrench which will loosen up or fall off all the time. Especially when trying to get in some awkward position.
Galler fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jan 6, 2014 |
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Jan 6, 2014 02:55
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StormDrain posted:I came to ask the exact same question. I can't think of a job where I didn't have the right sized wrench or socket to break it free. A "popsicle", sure. Also, buy one and you will be a believer. Also, when it is 5 degrees and your fingers are numb it works so much better than the drat spiral gear on a normal crescent wrench.
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Jan 6, 2014 06:40
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Cakefool posted:Any goons here that work in aircraft maintenance? I attended a little talk at work a couple of weeks ago that talked about how the designers took "maintenance" and "what is humanly possible" and no part exists in isolation" into account when designing systems, fastenings, plumbing, routing etc. It was all very interesting & they showed some cad walkthroughs of an engine mounted on a wing, maintenance doors opening, human arm and recommended tool comes into view, bolts & brackets get removed, parts come out & in again. I do this for real in real life and we have things like huck guns, sockets, and mig torches modeled up and occasionally we check if you can actually use them not airplanes tho
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Jan 6, 2014 06:48
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For stubborn brake line fittings you firstly need a brake line/flare wrench. THEN, if it is not coming loose, you take the vice grips and clamp them onto the outside of the flare wrench really tight. Obviously you have to do this before it gets rounded off.
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Jan 6, 2014 07:17
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 Well that's a new one...
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Jan 6, 2014 08:04
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 This is what happens when you take your stuff to the Bonneville salt flats and run it for one week. This engine was freshly built prior to that, with no visible corrosion or wear. It still has salt on it. Lesson learned is that anything you take there has a (very) limited life span.
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Jan 6, 2014 08:12
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Could you have hosed it down after it had cooled to help keep corrosion from occuring?
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Jan 6, 2014 08:35
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Yeah, the salt flats are brutal. Honestly that looks like the underside of any 4-5 year old car here though, I wouldn't expect much trouble working on it. Chassis/bodywork/electrical, oh boy that's a completely different story. They go to some pretty extreme lengths to seal water away from even the ends of wires, here's a great description of why: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html There's a pic partway down of a piece of wire hung over the lip of a jar full of salt water for 24 hours. There's a visible pile of dried salt residue under the end from saltwater wicking up into the other end, through the insulation and conductors, and down out the other end. It gets literally everywhere through any microscopic hole and corrodes horribly. This is why I won't buy a flood car, if the wiring works at all when you get it (hint: if the battery was left connected, it probably won't) it won't last more than a couple years without completely falling apart invisibly inside the insulation and splices and will exhibit the most maddening shorts and intermittent opens because of it. They even use special wire (mil/space/avaiation spec, usually mil22759 series) with dual layer insulation, inside layer blue outside layer white, so that they can tell if there is a nick in the insulation. As for brake line fittings... if it's still got flat spots, use that adjustable locking wrench. If it doesn't, grab your vise grips, set them as tight as you can manage, try turning it. If it starts rounding, walk the vise grips back and forth (attempt to tighten/loosen around 10-15 degrees) a few times to wear some low spots into the fastener, then release grip and tighten the adjuster screw as much as you can again. Repeat as necessary until it comes undone, every time you do this you'll make the flattish spots deeper and the fastener more football shaped. If you just keep trying to turn it instead of walking the jaws back and forth upon failure, you'll round it too evenly, but if you do this, it gets football/egg shaped and eventually you're going to have enough of a diameter difference that the jaws will grip and it'll either come out or shear off. When you get the new line make sure you check the fittings, M10 brake line fittings look real goddamn close to an SAE 3/8 and will thread in about a turn and a half before they stop, leaving you wondering what the hell happened. That was a fun evening.
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Jan 6, 2014 08:41
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Citycop posted:
Is that an actual offenhauser head? 
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Jan 6, 2014 08:49
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 Friends' pressure plate exploded. Moral of the story: Don't use cheap parts if you're gonna race it.
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Jan 6, 2014 09:49
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I bet that made a hell of a noise. My father once had a flywheel come partially though the tunnel in his drag car, it put out one hell of a show at the end of the track in the dark. He was lucky and now uses a scatter shield. Slavvy posted:Is that an actual offenhauser head? Yuppers. There's a good reason you don't see a lot of old speed stuff anymore. It was used up doing what it was designed to do.
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Jan 6, 2014 10:12
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Slavvy posted:How does anyone with a proper spanner set need one of these? It doesn't seem anywhere near as useful as actual vice grips, and can't do anything that channel locks/proper spanner/decent sized normal adjustable can't do. They're one of those tools I don't always need, but when I do, they're the best things going. I won't touch brake fittings without one on hand.
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Jan 6, 2014 11:47
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Also: oxygen sensors. O2 sensor wrenches just bend open when the thing is (inevitably) rust-welded on there.
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Jan 6, 2014 14:55
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Geirskogul posted:Also: oxygen sensors. O2 sensor wrenches just bend open when the thing is (inevitably) rust-welded on there. Hose clamp around the wrench 
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Jan 6, 2014 15:04
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Didn't realize I'd kick off brake fitting/vise-grip chat. I'll beat on it a little more this weekend, but I'm honestly not worried about it. The lines are 40+ years old and most/all of the brake stuff is getting replaced anyway. If I have to cut it off and replace it, so be it. Thanks for all the input.
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Jan 6, 2014 15:17
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Oh poo poo.
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Jan 6, 2014 17:48
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BlackMK4 posted:Hose clamp around the wrench   You just blew my goddamn mind, that's fuckin' brilliant.Splizwarf posted:Oh poo poo. 
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Jan 6, 2014 18:06
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InitialDave posted:Doesn't your forklift have solid tyres though?  I'm mildly concerned about the sidewall.
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Jan 6, 2014 19:43
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well. Atleast its in the proper thread. 
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Jan 6, 2014 19:46
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I really ought to park it somewhere till I can sort out the tires, but I really ought to do a lot of things... 
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Jan 6, 2014 19:51
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Is $14.xx for that wrench a particularly good price, or typical? I want to hold off a bit but if it's gonna shoot back up to list price I'll just get it now.
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Jan 6, 2014 19:58
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Typical. A year and a half ago they were $11. I've probably sold a thousand dollars worth of those for them and I don't even work at a store, I just tell people on forums/at the junkyard/on the trail to buy them because they're fuckin' awesome. DrPain, I definitely wouldn't take that forklift on the highway without replacing the tires
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Jan 6, 2014 20:27
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Godholio posted:Is $14.xx for that wrench a particularly good price, or typical? I want to hold off a bit but if it's gonna shoot back up to list price I'll just get it now. it's been lower: http://camelcamelcamel.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/product/B00009OYGZ
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Jan 6, 2014 20:29
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Geirskogul posted:Also: oxygen sensors. O2 sensor wrenches just bend open when the thing is (inevitably) rust-welded on there. I bought a crow's foot sensor wrench, and it seems like it'd be sturdy enough to avoid this: 
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Jan 6, 2014 21:02
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I use a ratcheting wrench for 02 sensors. you have to slip the plug through the end and slip it on down, but it makes it oooooooooo easy.
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Jan 6, 2014 21:42
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atomicthumbs posted:I bought a crow's foot sensor wrench, and it seems like it'd be sturdy enough to avoid this: Nope. You're in for a fun time!
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Jan 6, 2014 22:01
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If you're taking the old one of couldn't you just cut the cable and slip a deep socket over it? Disclaimer: never changed an O2 sensor.
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Jan 6, 2014 22:30
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Cakefool posted:If you're taking the old one of couldn't you just cut the cable and slip a deep socket over it? Yup, but it doesn't help you tighten up the new one.
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Jan 6, 2014 22:32
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Veeb0rg posted:Yup, but it doesn't help you tighten up the new one. Which won't be rusted into place...
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Jan 7, 2014 13:59
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Lady at work claimed her elderly neighbor hadn't moved his older car in about 2 weeks. He went to back out this morning, and the treads were frozen to the driveway and tore right open.  Is that even possible?
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Jan 7, 2014 15:13
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I once helped a friend remove an O2 sensor from the downpipe on his 2nd gen RX-7. He brought it to me because he couldn't get it loose with a standard wrench. "No problem, I've got an O2 socket. You should invest in one. They're handy!" My particular O2 sensor was an impact O2 sensor socket. Plenty of room for a breaker bar, so I slipped it on and... holy poo poo it won't budge! We both tugged on it and did nothing but flex the 3' Craftsman breaker bar. I grabbed a floor jack handle and used it as a cheater handle for the breaker bar. We both put everything we had into it and... SNAP! The O2 socket shattered. As I try to comprehend WTF is going on and wonder if the O2 sensor is welded in place, I look at the sensor up close and personal and realize the O2 sensor bung in the downpipe is not round, but is hex and the O2 sensor JUST happened to line up exactly in the with the bung so my socket went past the sensor and we were trying to wrench the welded in bung loose! I went and got my cheap-rear end HF O2 socket, placed it at the correct height on the sensor, and I accidentally loosened it when I put the ratchet on it. It was apparently not much tighter than finger tight.
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Jan 7, 2014 15:24
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FogHelmut posted:Lady at work claimed her elderly neighbor hadn't moved his older car in about 2 weeks. He went to back out this morning, and the treads were frozen to the driveway and tore right open. Only if your tires look like this. . . DrPain posted:
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Jan 7, 2014 15:35
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