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Not a picture. A video. This happened to my unlucky rear end while driving home this evening. Minding my own business and then "Where the gently caress did the road go?!?!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3UYO54nvCM Luckily it was a nice day and I already had the windows down. It must have looked like a Cheech and Chong movie from behind. Only saving grace is I had just topped that hill at the beginning of the video and from there it's down hill 6 blocks to my house. I coasted into my driveway with steam pouring out the windows and little momentum to spare. I'd been smelling a bit of coolant on the drive home but I saw steam pouring from a Kia in front of me on the freeway and thought it was them. Sadly, it was me too. Someone grabbed a pic of me coasting home.  I had the heater core replaced on this thing <2 years ago. This is not cool. I don't have the money to pay 8 hours labor for someone else to do it so I get to waste a weekend replacing a $35 part that should have lasted 20 years like the previous one. I should do the blower motor while I'm in there but that's around $200/new.
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Jan 10, 2014 01:55
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Geoj posted:OTOH how many people routinely leave the house in the morning with enough time to go around the perimeter of their car door breaking through a layer of ice without loving up the paint (especially if, like most people, you store your deicing equipment in your car)? What I've done in the past is smack the ice with the pinky size of my fist. Easiest if you hit a hollow spot so the door flexes and the ice breaks off. You can also soften the ice up a bit by resting your palm against it. But either way, once you get the process started it goes pretty quick. Just gotta work your way around the seam of the door until enough ice is gone that you can pull it open. Then once you get the defroster going it's just a matter of sitting and waiting for the windows to heat up enough that you can clear them off. If the water seeped into the weather sealing and then froze you're pretty well hosed though.
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Jan 10, 2014 01:57
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Kill-9 posted:heater core the parts market for rovers has gone to poo poo. if it has the britpart logo, it may as well be shitpart. Try stuffing some american/GM copper core in it this time. 
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Jan 10, 2014 02:04
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InitialDave posted:
Man, those outer pinion bearings are hosed to have given it that much of a self clearance fit. It must have pulled the pinion at least 1/8" into the diff. xzzy posted:What I've done in the past is smack the ice with the pinky size of my fist. Easiest if you hit a hollow spot so the door flexes and the ice breaks off. You can also soften the ice up a bit by resting your palm against it. A bucket of hot water can help a lot. Or if you're working with an old pitted/chipped windshield, even just warm water, or room temperature, as long as it isn't ridiculously cold out.
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Jan 10, 2014 02:22
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kastein posted:Man, those outer pinion bearings are hosed to have given it that much of a self clearance fit. It must have pulled the pinion at least 1/8" into the diff. HOLY MOLY do not do this unless you're about to immediately drive to a different climate.
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Jan 10, 2014 02:40
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I'm always afraid to try water because I'm not sure what capacity auto glass has to tolerate sudden temperature shifts. I'd guess regular cold tap water would be fine, but I really don't feel like being a test dummy for it. I've cracked a windshield running the defroster and stuff like that makes me a little gunshy. 
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Jan 10, 2014 02:42
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cursedshitbox posted:the parts market for rovers has gone to poo poo. if it has the britpart logo, it may as well be shitpart. You happen to know what American copper ones will fit in a Classic? I don't want to do this job ever again. From what I understand the story is: One day Land Rover placed a heater core in an empty room. Then they built a Range Rover around it.
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Jan 10, 2014 02:45
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Not offhand. I'll dig around and see what I can find though. RRC heater cores are a right of passage to ownership. with that said, gently caress doing them.
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Jan 10, 2014 02:54
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Polymerized Cum posted:HOLY MOLY do not do this unless you're about to immediately drive to a different climate. I've done it, and it worked. You do have to be careful though, if you pour water on it and wait too long, it will just freeze the drat door on more solidly. If you get in and crank the heat though it will be fine. Or if you just dry the door seal and the spot it presses against off with a towel once you get the door open. xzzy posted:I'm always afraid to try water because I'm not sure what capacity auto glass has to tolerate sudden temperature shifts. I'd guess regular cold tap water would be fine, but I really don't feel like being a test dummy for it. Same, sucks doesn't it?  It was before I even owned my truck... the owner (friend of mine) and I had just finished putting a new thermostat in it. The old one was stuck wide open and it was running at 120 degrees on the highway and getting something like 9mpg. We threw it in and (since our fingers were completely nonfunctional from the cold at that point) took it for a test drive to get it up to temp and warm our hands up. Got to a stop light, realized the heat was starting to work, cranked the defrost to 11, then the drat windshield cracked straight across almost from one side to the other. That experience is exactly why I put the warning about pitted or cracked windshields in. It sucked.
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Jan 10, 2014 03:26
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Every summer I spray a little bit of silicone grease and rub it into the rubber of the seals as part of the winterization prep for each car. I dunno if it really helps but it feels like it does. This year I had a new car, got busy on the run-up to winter and didn't bother doing it and now I have rear doors that won't unlock and sometimes freeze shut. I need to grease so many things this spring..
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Jan 10, 2014 03:29
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DO NOT USE HOT WATER!
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Jan 10, 2014 04:46
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Geirskogul posted:DO NOT USE HOT WATER! We need to determine the exact level of thermal shock that a windshield can handle.
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Jan 10, 2014 04:52
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Maybe not a car but definitely a hell of a failure. Probably also involved some goons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vm8Or_Yw5o
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Jan 10, 2014 13:17
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I liked the guy at the end of that blindly staring at the mig welder. Probably got home and wondered who tipped a truck load of sand into his eyes
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Jan 10, 2014 13:27
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The one shielding the arc with his hand?
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Jan 10, 2014 13:50
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Patton Oswalt and Jerry Seinfeld go for a ride in a DeLorean, which shits itself. Looks like all the coolant starts pouring from the exhaust: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh0S0PBUgDs (3 minutes in)
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Jan 10, 2014 16:31
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ultimateforce posted:The one shielding the arc with his hand? It looks to me like he has a little viewing window in his hand.
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Jan 10, 2014 19:21
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Ferremit posted:I liked the guy at the end of that blindly staring at the mig welder. You mean the same guy who was using the angle grinder with no guard or eye protection?
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Jan 10, 2014 22:09
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Sudo Echo posted:It looks to me like he has a little viewing window in his hand. He's recording video with his phone, hence the closeup footage, and looking at the phone screen.
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Jan 10, 2014 23:49
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Polymerized Cum posted:HOLY MOLY do not do this unless you're about to immediately drive to a different climate. It works if you're really in a pinch. But I prefer a heat gun. You can actually prevent this happening by coating the door seal in silicone, although if there is a continuous sheet of ice covering the panel gap then you'll still need to melt it.
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Jan 11, 2014 00:35
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I've heard that closing the door on some oversized plastic sheet will prevent ice from sealing around the door. But maybe you will just end up with plastic sheeting iced into your door, making your car look as ridiculous as it is unusable.
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Jan 11, 2014 01:11
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Polyethylene or any other "low surface energy" plastic (teflon, delrin, etc etc) would work, the whole idea is to make it so the water won't really stick to it and neither will the ice. If you aren't extremely careful about wrinkles though, all you'll do is form nice little channels that will let rainwater into the car.
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Jan 11, 2014 01:29
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Geirskogul posted:DO NOT USE HOT WATER! My mom used to do this, but it was in texas so it only happened once or twice each decade, and cold down there is nothing. On the other hand, in Kansas my sister's Cavalier split its windshield from just running the defroster one morning.
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Jan 11, 2014 01:31
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Colonel Sanders posted:My mom used to do this, but it was in texas so it only happened once or twice each decade, and cold down there is nothing. On the other hand, in Kansas my sister's Cavalier split its windshield from just running the defroster one morning. If it was a J-body, it was probably just biding its time; waiting for the perfect moment to strike.
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Jan 11, 2014 02:04
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Colonel Sanders posted:My mom used to do this, but it was in texas so it only happened once or twice each decade, and cold down there is nothing. On the other hand, in Kansas my sister's Cavalier split its windshield from just running the defroster one morning. My old Cavalier cracked the dashboard one night while cornering hard. Those cars have tremendous flex basically everywhere.
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Jan 11, 2014 02:24
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Hey Hey Subaru  gently caress you, Subaru E; yes, I know the belt is still on the alternator, I wasn't actually trying to remove it for the picture Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Jan 11, 2014 |
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Jan 11, 2014 22:26
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That bolt is comically long.
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Jan 12, 2014 05:28
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Replace it with all-thread for the next guy.
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Jan 12, 2014 05:40
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Uh, what is going on there?
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Jan 12, 2014 08:52
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Couldn't you remove that black plastic hose guide (?) or does the alternator bolt have another three inches before it clears?
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Jan 12, 2014 09:00
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The hose guide is part of the electric fan. He could just remove the electric fan. Later subies have slotted alternator mounts so you don't have to remove the bolt.
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Jan 12, 2014 09:45
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Yeah it's just incredibly obnoxious, all they would have had to do to avoid the problem entirely is move that bracket a half inch in either direction, but no, you gotta pull the fans if you want to remove the alternator.
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Jan 12, 2014 17:05
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A followup to my heater core exploding last week. All fixed with parts I had lying around the garage. I no longer have heat in the cab but Texas winters are pretty mild. I might wanna swap to copper instead of galvanized pipe sections if I'm going to leave it any length of time. I'm not planning on leaving it like that for long though. 
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Jan 13, 2014 23:22
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Kill-9 posted:A followup to my heater core exploding last week. The rights of Land Rover ownership passage..... Do you have the 3.9 or the 4.2? Once the weather breaks and I have some extra cash, I gotta do something about my 3.5 in my truck.
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Jan 14, 2014 00:14
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The rights of Land Rover ownership passage..... I replaced the 3.9 with a cammed 4.2 two years ago. When the new engine went in a new heater core was done at that point as it was just easier to do it with the engine out. Heater cores should last more than 2 years IMO. The shop that did it agrees but also agrees that it's out of warranty. *sigh*
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Jan 14, 2014 00:31
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No picture, but we had a guy with a Honda Ridgeline come in today sounding like a helicopter. Blew out the #2 spark plug which had promptly chewed up the cooling fan and smashed into the radiator hard enough to bend it.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:43
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Wait, how the hell did the spark plug hit the radiator fan? Did it swing around wildly by the plug wire, or are those things transverse mount or something? Oh, and that heater core explosion and repair reminds me of the time I was driving to a concert in Boston in my crapcan 98 cherokee. The heater core had been leaking a little for a while, so I usually drove it with the windows open (even in the winter... god that sucked) and suddenly it decided to finish itself off. Steam everywhere, so I'm driving down the pike like Ace Ventura. Fortunately the next exit was the one for rt30 and there is a Home Depot less than a mile from the highway, so I bought a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of channel-locks, two copper stubouts and fixed it in the parking lot. Still made it to the concert, gotta love ghetto heater core bypasses using home plumbing supplies I don't know why I put up with a slightly leaking heater core for like a year and no heat for another year and a half, when I finally sacked up and replaced it, it took me a whopping 4 hours. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 01:46
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with the ridgeline, think accord but with a different body.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:53
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kastein posted:Wait, how the hell did the spark plug hit the radiator fan? Did it swing around wildly by the plug wire, or are those things transverse mount or something?  Middle cylinder nearest the radiator.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:58
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The Ridgeline is for people who can't be seen driving an Odyssey.
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Jan 14, 2014 02:06
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