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West SAAB Story posted:Stepping motor for the air distribution. It happens once in a very great while in my '99 9-5. The Auto + Off also does some sort of calibration, and it's always been enough to fix the problem for me even if it didn't throw out any codes.
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Jan 7, 2014 18:44
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NFX posted:It happens once in a very great while in my '99 9-5. The Auto + Off also does some sort of calibration, and it's always been enough to fix the problem for me even if it didn't throw out any codes. There is also a good 'blower motor going out? Rev the car to at least 4500 rpm.' fix, too. It seems to work better on the automatics, I've had inconclusive (works and doesn't) results on a 5 speed manual, but every 4 speed auto I've done it to that didn't have a cooked blower, it worked. E: Got other one done. The plastic was somewhat thin on this one so I reinforced the back with some liquid electrical tape to ensure that it kept water and dirt out.  
Viggen fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jan 8, 2014 |
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Jan 7, 2014 19:10
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Another Saabaru bites the dust. I just heard from my friend who had bought my '05 9-2X Aero back in October. He managed to waffle a deer over the past week and it sounds like Geico is going to total it citing lack of available body parts.  RIP Swedish Ebony Golfball, you will be missed. In other news, my suspension overhaul project on my '00 9-5 Aero has been bumped up. I replaced both my front tires today due to the fact the driver's side had a nasty leak and both had some bizarre wear patterns on both of them. Figuring I was also due for an alignment, I had the shop throw my car on the machine and check the numbers and hooo boy do I need one. I don't have the data sheet available, but I'll try to scan and upload it later. So now the question is do I go ahead and replace all 4 shocks/struts/springs AND do the bushings/ball joints? Especially since this is my beater and I'm only hoping to get 3 years/30k out of it? I'd probably also go ahead and do a full rotors/pads since the appropriate parts will be exposed. I'm guessing it's going to cost me $1000 in parts alone to do this myself. JayKay fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jan 8, 2014 |
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Jan 8, 2014 19:18
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https://vine.co/v/h3hjthQE9KX Backing out of my sisters snowy-rear end driveway I slid sideways into the gate and the plastic casing broke off my driver's side mirror. 'Cause the only things holding the plastic onto the mirror frame are four pretty weak plastic mountings. That broke. I glued it back together and hopefully can somehow fit it back on my car and not have to buy a whole new goddamn mirror but you'd think there would be a bit more reinforcement there nigga crab pollock fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 08:30
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All you need is a bit of epoxy for that, provided you have your broken tabs. You can also cut some not-quite-as-good tabs from a coke can, epoxy it onto the unit and just bend the tops over so it grips when you shove it into place. Nobody is going to see that, anyhow. I did the same thing with my ZX2, but that broke the entire mirror off with a light tap.  E: I don't remember what car you have, but it looks vaguely like part 12845125 to me. That is a $40 part new, unpainted. Viggen fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 21:27
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It's an '02 9-3. Didn't think of using a coke can, that's better than my original plan of just using a shitload of glue. For $40 though I could just buy a whole new mirror off of ebay
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Jan 9, 2014 21:48
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nigga crab pollock posted:It's an '02 9-3. Didn't think of using a coke can, that's better than my original plan of just using a shitload of glue. For $40 though I could just buy a whole new mirror off of ebay  It won't match if you do that.You may want some slightly stronger metal than a coke can - but those are pretty easy to source. There are various different epoxies that work for this repair, I'd strongly suggest an epoxy plastic bonding agent.
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Jan 9, 2014 22:39
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For the struts/shocks/springs replacement, is there anything else I need besides Parts: 2x Struts 2x Front Springs 2x Shocks 2x Rear Springs Special Tools: Spring Compressor Are there any 1 use bolts I should order also?
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Jan 9, 2014 23:06
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Extrapolating from the NG900/OG9-3, so this might not all apply, but consider if you will need: Strut mounts / bearings (no better time to replace them if they are at all marginal) Ball joint nuts (single use) Axle nuts (single use) Pipe wrench / chain wrench / etc. to hold strut and remove large nut holding cartridge Ball joint separator tool or other method to separate them
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Jan 10, 2014 03:13
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9-5 Front, and Rear. Pretty pictures to go along with it, too. E:  Why you gotta be a BW35? WHY? 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Jan 10, 2014 |
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Jan 10, 2014 05:40
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Leaky sunroof usually means blocked sunroof drains, correct? I discovered a few drops of water on the front passenger's seat on the way home from work. Looked up and noticed a small water water spot in the headliner next to the sunroof trim on the passenger side. When I opened the sunroof there was a little bit of water/moisture in the front channels but the rear drains were bone dry. I used a can of compressed air to blast both front drains, however since my car had already been sitting in my garage after driving in the rain, I can't tell if the water on the floor is from the drain, or just from the car. I'll probably give it a shot again later today once my car dries out.
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Jan 11, 2014 14:15
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JayKay posted:Leaky sunroof usually means blocked sunroof drains, correct? Check that, and also try to roll it back and make sure none of the tracks are broken. It won't seal well if it can't properly close. There are two little sliders on either side (as viewed from the top with the sunroof open) that tend to get twisted and the plastic locks sometimes snap. I'd start with the tracks, first, myself. Also, I did a thing. From this:  to this:  Yellorange is for wimps and communists.
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Jan 13, 2014 03:12
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Our '99 9-5 wagon has 195k on the clock and my wife wants me to craigslist it in the next month or two because she wants to get a newer car. A newer car being a less than 5 year old Saab wagon with under 50k miles on it.  
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Jan 13, 2014 05:18
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West SAAB Story posted:Check that, and also try to roll it back and make sure none of the tracks are broken. It won't seal well if it can't properly close. There are two little sliders on either side (as viewed from the top with the sunroof open) that tend to get twisted and the plastic locks sometimes snap. I'd start with the tracks, first, myself.
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Jan 13, 2014 05:25
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Francis Baconator posted:Oh. I though you were implying you had control over the snow. Oh, I do. Even in the FWD only ones. 
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Jan 13, 2014 07:19
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Can somebody have a look at this 2002 9-3 convertible and tell me what could possibly go wrong? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saab-9-3-SE...=US_Cars_Trucks It's a local listing by a big dealer in the area. My '97 900 shat the bed with major clutch and suspensions repairs coinciding, and I need something as soon as possible. The 900 was my first car and my uncle gave it to me, so I know fuckall about buying used and less about buying from a dealer. The pictures show an automatic but the ad states manual 5-spd a bunch, I don't know what's going on there.
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Jan 13, 2014 17:39
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Engine Sludge. Here is a list of vehicles it plagues: 1999 - 2003 Saab 9-5 with the turbocharged 2.3 liter four-cylinder engine. 2000 - 2003 Saab 9-3 with the turbocharged 2.0 liter four-cylinder engine. 1999 Saab 9-3 Viggen with the turbocharged 2.3 liter four-cylinder engine. Not to say that the engine WILL sludge, they are just more prone to sludging issues. The later model 2.0/2.3's were ironed out. For the price and miles on it though, it's a sweet car, I would just be aware of the sludge issue so you can take preventative measures against it. edit: Oh, also the SID's are prone to dead pixels and the alarms are prone to having the batteries replaced, except it takes a specialized battery that you have to unsolder and resolder back into place. That's not a specific model issue though, that's a saab general issue. Also window rollers loooooove to bust, but that's $10.00 and 20 minutes to fix. If you really don't feel like screwing with alarm batteries, you can also just pull the fuse under the hood, though you'll get a "service theft alarm" message on the SID, but that's better than it going off at random times like in my case driving down the road when I finally had enough and pulled the fuse. keykey fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jan 13, 2014 |
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Jan 13, 2014 20:30
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Pretty much everything keykey said. If you have the remnants of a dealership nearby, see if they still have TIS access. If so, ask them to run a warranty history on the VIN, which is YS3DF78K127000221. Here's a free carfax, courtesy of Google. It had an accident in 2010, but I'm not sure to what degree. It wasn't salvaged. That VIN is for a 4 speed automatic. The 4 speeds are pretty bulletproof, fwiw. I love my sludgers. I really do. I'm on my second 9-5 sludger, which is now at 130k (last was at 187k-192k when it was taken from me), and I have a 9-3 'vert with about 105k on it. Since I am prone to scaring people off from 'too good to be true' deals, take this all with a grain of salt. The SID issues are a piece of piss, really. Just pop it out from behind, remove a handful of screws, heat the ribbon cable and push it into place. Worst case, you get a 95% fix - for essentially free. Don't bother buying a rebuilt if you have ANY mechanical ability at all. It is drat simple. You can get replacement ribbon cables at a rape-price of about $10 on eBay. You can replace the alarm batteries yourself, and I have done it once with my old 9-5, but I can't say I really enjoyed that job. It wasn't difficult, either - needed about 5 minutes with a soldering iron, but getting it in and out was a bit of a pain. You can get the good window rollers for about $10/set, as mentioned. There are cheaper ones, but they don't last long. You need to remove the door card, gently pull away the sound deadening, and stick your hands in and pop the old rollers out, and put the new ones in. I've got that down to a science. First time, you'll probably spend half an hour on it, just being very careful (the plastic door trims like to crack if you tug on it like a deranged monkey). It is just another maintenance part. I've heard of people using the Volvo square sliders with good luck, but, meh.  That car looks a bit strange with 2008 wheels on it.
Viggen fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jan 13, 2014 |
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Jan 13, 2014 21:04
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Window roller tip #1000, NEVER take the clip out of the new one to slide it on then push it back into place, it is a god awful pain in the rear end. Just put the new roller into place, then press the piece back on, you'll hear a click and you're good to go.
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Jan 13, 2014 23:09
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keykey posted:Window roller tip #1000, NEVER take the clip out of the new one to slide it on then push it back into place, it is a god awful pain in the rear end. Just put the new roller into place, then press the piece back on, you'll hear a click and you're good to go. Yep. I actually had to yell at a few people who had HOWTOs with 'remove the clip' in it. Good job, ace, you done hosed up.  You should get two clicks if you leave the clip on. Otherwise it may not be fully seated.
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Jan 13, 2014 23:20
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keykey posted:Engine Sludge. Here is a list of vehicles it plagues: Thanks to the both of you. It seems the damned thing sold before I ever had the chance to look into its accident, or to have a shop do a pre-purchase inspection of the oil pan. Oh well, it's not like there's some shortage of old SAAB convertibles. If anyone knows of one in north central Colorado, send it to me and I'll probably buy it. Thanks to keykey and West SAAB Story for the invaluable tips, mainly the oilpan sludge check, and the free history report! I am so abominably cheap I wouldn't have known of the accident until an hour before writing the check. All your tips are going into my 900/9-3 text file, but it's usually major systems which worry me most when buying used. My 900 came with a failing fuel pump, failing clutch, bad front suspension, rusted-through handbrake cable, rusted-through brake lines, and broken clutch cable. And I still loved the poo poo out of that car. The car was priced like almost two grand over KBB. Is this typical of a car with a like-new interior that's had some attention paid to it? I wasn't going to offer more than 800 over kbb.
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Jan 14, 2014 02:56
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agarjogger posted:The car was priced like almost two grand over KBB. Is this typical of a car with a like-new interior that's had some attention paid to it? I wasn't going to offer more than 800 over kbb. That really depends on the locale. If they think they have gold, they'll ask what they can. They're obviously a bit dumb about SAABs. You either get an awesome car for cheap, or an overpriced car that is missing maintenance that will cost you even more money. The first gen 9-3 isn't that much different from your NG900. Avoid any '95 convertible like the plague, though. It was a mechanical-only setup rather than hydraulic, and they've all eaten their gears. Every single one of them. If you are interested in any SAAB, I hope you are near Broomfield. These guys are awesome. They tried like hell to buy my car from me, and programmed my system for free because the lead tech was drooling over my car. 
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Jan 14, 2014 04:02
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agarjogger posted:Is this typical of a car with a like-new interior that's had some attention paid to it? I wasn't going to offer more than 800 over kbb. Yes and no? It depends on the car. Saab's have uhh.. Interesting.. Resale values. They aren't for sale in the states as of now so the prices dip into insanely low territory. The KBB suggested retail on my wife's 9-5 wagon is $1800. Realistically, I can probably get around $2,500-$3,000 for it. So, just take Saab values with a grain of salt. That said, you can get 2012 models insanely cheap that still look and perform like brand new with 30k or less miles on them. She's been looking at newer Saab wagons and found a 2011 9-3 sportcombi with 40k miles on it for $13,500. Like all things KBB, your mileage my vary since we live in the middle of CA and can pull from Bakersfield to Sacramento and over to the bay for a reasonable purchasing distance and there is seemingly no shortage of Saab's for sale.
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Jan 14, 2014 17:23
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keykey posted:can pull from Bakersfield to Sacramento and over to the bay for a reasonable purchasing distance and there is seemingly no shortage of Saab's for sale. Do you have a truck and a trailer? Follow 80 a bit farther. Tahoe tends to have a ton of them, but Reno is pretty bare. I probably own 10% of them registered in Nevada.
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Jan 14, 2014 22:11
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Decided to have a go at my cabin fan motor and quickly discovered that gear pullers are pretty much required to get the wiper arms off. Apparently 14 years of exposure to the elements spot welds the arms to the posts. Oh well, will give it another go once I get a gear puller set in.
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Jan 15, 2014 09:15
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JayKay posted:Decided to have a go at my cabin fan motor and quickly discovered that gear pullers are pretty much required to get the wiper arms off. Apparently 14 years of exposure to the elements spot welds the arms to the posts. Don't bother with that. Take the bolts off, and with the meat of your palm, give a good rap to the bottom side of the wiper (below the post, obviously) while gently pulling back on the arm. I've never had this fail, and never broke, or cracked a windshield yet. On the '96, it took 3 smacks for the passenger side. Usually I can get them dislodged in one.  E: Unrelated - I finally got a copy of the Saab-Scania story. $2+shipping for a "very good, nearly mint" copy with no marks and an intact dustjacket? I think I can afford that. This was nestled inside the book:  How cool is that? Viggen fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 19:32
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Had another go at the windshield wipers with your palm method, no dice. Even tried using a rubber mallet and some PB blaster with no luck. These arms are REALLY on there and do not want to come off.
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Jan 16, 2014 02:06
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JayKay posted:Had another go at the windshield wipers with your palm method, no dice. Even tried using a rubber mallet and some PB blaster with no luck. These arms are REALLY on there and do not want to come off. Well, poo poo. Can you get any pictures of how bad the corrosion is? I mean my '96 sat outside all seasons (and was a right mess by the time I got it in Q3/12). The trick I've found is to hold the arm below the bend, and to pull up gently while giving it a good rap. If a mallet didn't help after letting PB soak, I'd be a bit concerned, myself. Just be drat careful with the puller, if you end up going that route - wiper transmissions are already becoming difficult to source (unless used).
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Jan 16, 2014 02:10
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I managed to get the driver's side wiper off using a pair of vice grips and there was a ton of gunk/corrosion on the post. There was a topic on Saabcentral that suggested to loosen the nut, and take a pair of channel locks, 1 on the nut, 1 below the arm and this method actually worked for me. The passenger's side however still refused to budge. I decided to take a break and just soak it with PB Blaster and give it another try later. Quick question, I'm trying to do the removal with the wipers in the off/stowed position. I saw it mentioned somewhere that people are trying it with the wipers in the on/all the way up position, however it would require you to reindex the arms on reassembly. Also, should the wiper arms be in the folded up position? With the hood up, the passenger side wiper cannot be fully folded up due to it being blocked.
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Jan 16, 2014 04:10
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JayKay posted:Quick question, I'm trying to do the removal with the wipers in the off/stowed position. I saw it mentioned somewhere that people are trying it with the wipers in the on/all the way up position, however it would require you to reindex the arms on reassembly. Also, should the wiper arms be in the folded up position? With the hood up, the passenger side wiper cannot be fully folded up due to it being blocked. You're overthinking this. I stick a piece of black electrical tape under/over the arm where the blade meets before removal. You can use the gunk/buildup/dirt as a guide for the one you already removed. E: If its not aligned properly, well, I suppose you could do the 'stop at the top', but I've never seen anyone that nutty. Ever. If it scrapes too far, just grab the arm and tug it down before you completely tighten the bolt for the next decade or so. Also, since you're taking the wipers off, anyhow, give them a little rub with some steel wool, then spray them with Rustoleum BBQ black. Viggen fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 04:17
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So the transmission went on my mother's beloved Saab and we can't afford to have it fixed. The car is a 92 9000s and in rather good shape for its age. My mother would rather see someone take the car that could either fix it or part it out rather than go to the scrapper, but we have to get rid of it quickly. I don't know much about cars, so I'm not sure if it is even worth trying to sell or where to advertise. We are located in southern New Hampshire.
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Jan 16, 2014 14:20
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Thesaurus_Rex posted:So the transmission went on my mother's beloved Saab and we can't afford to have it fixed. The car is a 92 9000s and in rather good shape for its age. My mother would rather see someone take the car that could either fix it or part it out rather than go to the scrapper, but we have to get rid of it quickly. I don't know much about cars, so I'm not sure if it is even worth trying to sell or where to advertise. We are located in southern New Hampshire. Sad. You might try one of these guys (this list may be years out of date). Do you have a 4 speed auto, or a stick? That will make a bit of difference. Craigslist for your local area is going to be the cheapest. You can sell via SAABnet, but that is not free - many other SAAB related forums are. I hate to tell you, but a 22 year old non-turbo S (probably an automatic) isn't going to fetch much cash, especially with a broken tranny. If any locals are not interested in it for parts (somewhat unlikely), you're going to be selling it to a dismantler/pick-n-pull.
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Jan 16, 2014 14:37
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Yeah, I kinda figured it wasn't worth much, it is an automatic and nothing special. Thanks for the list though, I'll check around and see if anyone bites.
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Jan 16, 2014 14:43
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Fuuuuuuuuuuuck yoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooou!  Ended up using this Battery Terminal Puller to get the passenger side wiper off. I actually had bent the handle but it got the job done. Managed to strip one of the plastic screws (wtf?) and also broke 3 of the windshield clips but was able to successfully swap out blower motors. Threw some anti-seize on the windshield wiper posts since I'll have to take the fucker apart again to replace the plastic clips. But at least I have working heat/air now!!! 
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Jan 17, 2014 23:36
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It's amazing how little room there is in there, i was unsure of which end of the new blower i should stick in but i somehow managed to get everything in place. Today my mom gave me this book, "How i get the most out of my Saab", tips and tricks for the Saab 93  
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Jan 19, 2014 17:05
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Things I accomplished today: 1) Swapped out front passenger door lock actuator. I now have 2 working power locks! 2) Fixed the backwards wiring on my heated seats. Now the correct switches correspond to the correct seat. 3) Removed old faded hood emblem and replaced with a shiny new one. Things on my schedule in the upcoming week(s) 1) Oil Change 2) Transmission Drain/Fill 3) Coolant flush/fill, Coolant Bypass Valve replacement, Thermostat Replacement 4) SID/ACC refurbishment (pixel fix, bulb replacements) 5) Replace the 3 broken windshield tabs on the cowling. Also try to figure out why there's a rattle coming from my newly replaced cabin fan motor. 6) Cabin filter replacement 7) Valve cover gasket, new head bolts. 8) Fuel Filter Things on the horizon 1) All 4 struts/shocks and springs 2) Going to try and drop the Oil Sump again. If successful, replace oil pickup and O-ring. 3) Rear door lock actuators 4) Recirc motor resistor fix 5) Transmission mount, various suspension bushings JayKay fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Jan 20, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 10:56
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underlig posted:Today my mom gave me this book, "How i get the most out of my Saab", tips and tricks for the Saab 93 Man.. I wish I could find something like that beauty here. I seem to be amassing literature, but all of my is (mostly) 16 valve+. (The top one that you can't make out is Made in Trollhättan Still waiting on my '99 manuals that shipped, oh, almost a month ago. One day, I shall have a '78 99. Oh yes.  JayKay posted:Things I accomplished today: Was yours already setup for heated seats, and just plugged in backwards? I'm trying to find if the 2K 9-5 had the harnesses in all of them, even if they weren't originally with heated seats. I am too lazy to tear into mine to check right now, because I know I'll start fixing MORE things that don't need to be messed with until the weather is above freezing. JayKay posted:4) SID/ACC refurbishment (pixel fix, bulb replacements) I did a ~96% pixel fix just by sticking a couple of metal washers onto a dowel with a screw, heating them, and pressing down on the ribbon cable. It was all of $free. With all of your other to-do projects that cost money, I can say that I do recommend it. It is a drat shame we're all so far apart - It'd be nice to be able to afford a timeshare rental with lifts and such. E: JayKay posted:1) All 4 struts/shocks and springs Thanks for reminding me just how broke I am (and am likely to be). Not so worried about the sump in this beast, bue the rest has to be done. Viggen fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jan 20, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 18:38
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West SAAB Story posted:
It was already set up for heated seats. I apparently got my harnesses crossed when I had replaced my center console trim and central locking switch a few months ago. West SAAB Story posted:
Yeah that's what I'm planning to do, reheat and then put some sort of foam/double sided tape. I'd say my SID is at 80% but if I can get closer to 100%, I'd be happy. West SAAB Story posted:E: It is a drat shame we're all so far apart - It'd be nice to be able to afford a timeshare rental with lifts and such. It has crossed my mind a few times that it might be cheaper to fly you out here and fix my car than it would to be take it to a specialist.  Edit: I actually had tried dropping my sump last year but literally got hung up.....on a turbo stud. The top 2 were able to come out in one piece but the bottom one only had the nut come off. Because of this, I can move the exhaust side to side but the flange catches the stud and can't be dropped. Some posters at SaabWorld suggested undoing a few motor mounts and raising the motor and I'll probably give that a shot next week. I had already PB blasted the crap out of it and tried the 2 nut method, no dice. Once I can confirm that there's a distinct lack of sludge, I'll probably go ahead and do my suspension JayKay fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 23:59
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JayKay posted:It has crossed my mind a few times that it might be cheaper to fly you out here and fix my car than it would to be take it to a specialist. I wouldn't do that. I'd go for someone competent. For really ugly/nasty jobs, I tend to outsource stuff that I just can't do. This includes bad evap leaks, tranny replacement, anything that requires a Tech2 to program, and really nasty electrical gremlins. $600 Tech 2 (clone) on Amazon from China, or bid on a REAL one starting at $1k on eBay from a US seller with no history, and opened account less than a month ago. Mmmhmm.
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Jan 21, 2014 22:36
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West SAAB Story posted:I wouldn't do that. I'd go for someone competent. There's a thread over on SaabCentral on clones. Might want to check it out Basically $350ish direct from China. JayKay fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 23:53
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