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The sti in other markets has had a twin scroll equal length manifold for years. I'm assuming they will have a low front mount turbo like the LGT, which means no UEL headers are going to work there unless you purposely add it weird extra bends.
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Jan 9, 2014 02:30
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I believe the Forester XT which already has the FB20DIT has an underslung turbo mount like the LGT so I wouldn't be surprised if the WRX shares it. Shorter runners only makes sense to me - the power band has gotten a lot fatter and the torque peak comes on much sooner now, even without the twin scroll it'd be a lot more responsive.
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Jan 9, 2014 03:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I believe the Forester XT which already has the FB20DIT has an underslung turbo mount like the LGT so I wouldn't be surprised if the WRX shares it. Are the newer STi's not very responsive down low? In my 98 I'm already at full boost (16psi) at 3k rpm with a VF24. I thought the low-end responsiveness was one of the big selling points for these cars?
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Jan 9, 2014 03:46
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VelociBacon posted:Are the newer STi's not very responsive down low? In my 98 I'm already at full boost (16psi) at 3k rpm with a VF24. I thought the low-end responsiveness was one of the big selling points for these cars? The turbo doesn't start adding anything until around 2500 in my 2012.
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Jan 9, 2014 05:14
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There's a chart somewhere comparing the 2010 LGT power curve to an STI that I will try to find. Both make similar peak numbers but the lgt makes a shitload more torque and it comes in way sooner.
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Jan 9, 2014 05:52
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Cat Terrist posted:No, you need UEL to REALLY get *that* sound. Otherwise they sound more like a loving throaty but still nail board screechy 4 banger. It's definitely one of those agree to disagree type of deals; youtube videos paired with microphones without proper dynamic range don't really help. I'm biased towards my side due to having EL headers on for a couple months now.
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Jan 9, 2014 07:24
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pctD posted:I live in the SF Bay Area and I recently just got into snowboarding. I'd like to take my STI up to the mountains but most of the drive (~150 miles) there is freeway with no snow worries. I know I shouldn't use the summer tires that come on the car but I don't think a set of snow tires is really necessary. I'd like a set of tires/wheels I can throw on for the winter season that would be good in the light snow and on the freeway. Any suggestions? I ran ContiExtremeContacts year round on my 9-2x in MN, was really quite impressed with how well they handled in the winter even when things got really dicey. Definitely much better than I expected them to. Not sure if they still make them, or if they've been replaced with the ExtremeContact DWS, which look similar. Of course, they did replaced the RE92 that came stock, which are probably the worst all-season tires ever made. So it's possible any tire would have seemed amazing after driving on those for a year. 
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Jan 9, 2014 09:22
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Extreme Contact DWS are, from what I've read and from having them on my G35, pretty well the best high performance all-seasons in the snow. Tirerack did a comparison test with them and some others and the Conti's did significantly better than anything else.
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Jan 9, 2014 16:29
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Just got replaced my RE92s with Conti whatever DWS and I'm very happy with them in all the snow and ice we've been getting in CT. My commute is 30min of very hilly, twisty, and fast back roads and the tires have made it home drama free that night that we got 8+ in. There was 2-3in on the road and I got home fine going 25mph the whole way, passed quite a few stuck cars. Couldn't have asked for more, would recommend.
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Jan 9, 2014 19:32
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Conti DWS are the M-series stock tires aren't they?
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Jan 9, 2014 19:56
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VelociBacon posted:Conti DWS are the M-series stock tires aren't they? Like BMW M? They mostly run some variation of Michelin Pilot Sport. The ContiSportContact is a closer tire to that than the DW, the DWS's summer brother.
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Jan 10, 2014 00:39
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The DWS is a competent all season tire and adequate in the snow, but a really lovely performance tire with a very soft sidewall. Be warned - I sold mine after a winter season.
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Jan 10, 2014 01:33
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I have the DWs (not DWS) and they're super badass and I love them.
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Jan 10, 2014 02:07
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blargle posted:The DWS is a competent all season tire and adequate in the snow, but a really lovely performance tire with a very soft sidewall. Be warned - I sold mine after a winter season. I agree with this. I bought the DWS after seeing people love them in this thread. The sidewalls are trash and I had one bubble on me. I'd much rather run dedicated snows + anything else vs new DWS's. They aren't a bad tire and they performed well in the winter I ran them, but I'd much rather buy 3/4 spent CL snows and nice summers instead.
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Jan 10, 2014 03:16
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Yakattak posted:I have the DWs (not DWS) and they're super badass and I love them. +1. They're fantastic and I haven't noticed any issues with soft sidewalls on my very light car.
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Jan 10, 2014 06:36
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I am entertaining the idea of purchasing new wheels for my (white) '13 WRX within the next couple of months. I'm looking at staying stock 17", so should I just pick up a set of RPF1s? What other wheels would look good on it?
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Jan 10, 2014 15:59
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Do you specifically not want the stock wheels? Because I'd say a good option would be to look for someone taking their stock 17s off for cheap over at NASIOC if you want a second set. If it's for looks, I have OZ Ultraleggeras in Matte Graphite I got on clearance a while back which I think look great.
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Jan 10, 2014 16:13
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I usually think Michelin tires aren't quite worth the price premium. That said, the new Pilot Sport A/S 3 are other worldly and godlike. They perform better as a summer tire than the DW (and I mean the DW, not the DWS) as well as many other dedicated summer tires and can be used in winter weather including light snow. So, if you live in an area where you only see very light snow, have a beater with dedicated snow tires but don't want to completely give up driving your performance car over the winter, or simply live an an area where you only need dedicated snow tires for an extremely short period of time (but it is too cold for summers for a much longer span), there's simply no other choice on the market right now. I have these on my 2002 and while I haven't tired them in snow, they laughed at other conditions. They will, without a doubt, be replacing the stock summers on my '11 when the time comes. I'll be able to use them as an all-year tire, only using my 2002 with snows when it gets really bad. If it was my only car, it would allow me to go much further into the fall before having to swap out to winters and allow me to switch back far earlier.
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Jan 10, 2014 17:54
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si posted:If it's for looks, I have OZ Ultraleggeras in Matte Graphite I got on clearance a while back which I think look great.
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Jan 10, 2014 18:39
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Fifty Three posted:Where did you find them? I'm going to be in the market for gold Ultraleggeras in a few months. I got mine from TireRack when they first stopped carrying (or OZ stopped making?) them something like 4 years ago. TireRack now sells them again, but they're nearly twice what I paid at the time.
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Jan 10, 2014 19:06
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2008 Legacy, NA engine, synthetic oil. I'm finally getting away from the short interval changes. I think I'm on 8k miles or so now. I'd like to change the filter and drive it another 5k miles before a change. Question is can I change the filter on this engine full of oil without a huge mess?
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Jan 10, 2014 19:13
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Sten Freak posted:2008 Legacy, NA engine, synthetic oil. I'm finally getting away from the short interval changes. I think I'm on 8k miles or so now. I'd like to change the filter and drive it another 5k miles before a change. Question is can I change the filter on this engine full of oil without a huge mess? Nope.
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Jan 10, 2014 19:17
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si posted:Nope.
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Jan 10, 2014 19:19
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Pulling off the filter is the same as just changing the oil. Level in the pan is below the filter so it's not like oil will continuously pour out or anything. So you'll lose the oil in the filter and a little in the passages above it. I haven't ever bothered trying to change filters midway through though and just change everything every 5-8k miles.
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Jan 10, 2014 19:33
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Yup - which is always 'huge mess' for me, so maybe that scale isn't fair. It's not one of those nice inverted top-of-engine filters with a handy spill catch pan around them though.
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Jan 10, 2014 19:36
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Can anyone shed some light on their manual boost controller preference? I'm currently looking at both Hallman and Grimmspeed's offerings, with the intent to switch over to a hybrid control setup, from my current EBCS 3 port system. Is a MBC just a MBC, or am I missing out on something here? They all just look like adjustable restrictor valves to me. I'm primarily just looking to eliminate EWG flutter while being able input fine tune adjustments, nothing fancy here. Jamal, do you carry either of these, or something similar?
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Jan 11, 2014 10:23
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VelociBacon posted:Noticed a bit of what looked like oldish oil around my valve covers, I had that overheat about a month ago when I blew my radiator up in the middle of nowhere, I turned the car off as soon as I could but is there a chance I need to redo my valve cover gaskets? What are they made of in these motors? (EJ20K). There's been absolutely no sign of any HG issues on either side; no high temps, no visible leaks, no smelly exhaust, no oil in coolant, no loss of coolant or oil. So I noticed today that I'm about a half quart of oil low and topped it up. Is it common to have valve cover issues after an overheat? e: Checking my coolant as soon as the temp is down enough to do so. e2: Coolant looks A-OK. Did I burn out my gasket somehow on the valve cover? VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jan 11, 2014 |
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Jan 11, 2014 17:01
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VelociBacon posted:So I noticed today that I'm about a half quart of oil low and topped it up. Is it common to have valve cover issues after an overheat? It's reasonably common to need to redo the valve cover gaskets & spark plug gaskets on the US NA 2.5L motors at higher mileage. I had to do them on the RS, but it was my spark plug gaskets that were leaking. We don't really have much exposure to the non-US motors though.
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Jan 11, 2014 17:57
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VelociBacon posted:So I noticed today that I'm about a half quart of oil low and topped it up. Is it common to have valve cover issues after an overheat? Turbo Subarus generally chew through oil in my experience. Do JDM cars have a PCV system?
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Jan 11, 2014 18:05
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si posted:It's reasonably common to need to redo the valve cover gaskets & spark plug gaskets on the US NA 2.5L motors at higher mileage. I had to do them on the RS, but it was my spark plug gaskets that were leaking. We don't really have much exposure to the non-US motors though. I guess my question is more whether it's common to redo them after an overheat. I just hope I didn't warp the head.
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Jan 11, 2014 18:08
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VelociBacon posted:I guess my question is more whether it's common to redo them after an overheat. I just hope I didn't warp the head. I have never heard of valve cover gaskets or spark plug gaskets being an issue after overheating. That usually leaks at the HG instead.
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Jan 11, 2014 18:39
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Well my shop is going to take a look at it on Thursday. I guess we'll see!
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Jan 11, 2014 19:19
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I pulled apart my headunit today, and turns out the dude who installed it just left all the wires bare and did a crap solder job, most of it's coming apart. No wonder it doesn't work. Also they didn't do their research and connect the antenna amp for the rear window antenna. How hard is it to connect a wire to the harness, this is literally the first time I've done anything like this. Should I just take it to a shop? It's not the OEM headunit so I'm assuming this sort of guide wouldn't apply.
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Jan 12, 2014 06:11
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It's not hard at all, depending on how much of a mess the previous person left it. If you can identify all of the stock wiring (from the guide you linked), then you can certainly wire it properly into a harness. Just strip, twist, solder, and tape/heatshrink as appropriate. The hardest thing for me with working on wiring in the dash area is really just prepping the area to work. If you don't get things comfortable, good light, put down some covering and such, you can get really frustrated trying to solder in there. Give yourself plenty of time, etc. I would not trust a shop for exactly the mess you have now.
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Jan 12, 2014 06:29
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I pulled apart my headunit today, and turns out the dude who installed it just left all the wires bare and did a crap solder job, most of it's coming apart. No wonder it doesn't work. Also they didn't do their research and connect the antenna amp for the rear window antenna. How hard is it to connect a wire to the harness, this is literally the first time I've done anything like this. Should I just take it to a shop? It's not the OEM headunit so I'm assuming this sort of guide wouldn't apply. Definitely do this yourself it's very simple. You'll need:
Go through wire by wire, put the heat shrink on first (cut it down to length) then twist the ends of the appropriate wires together, at the end go through with your soldering iron, hold the iron to the wires and contact the wires (not the soldering iron) with the solder until you see it flow into the twisted together wires. Bring the heat shrink up to cover the soldered joint and pass your soldering iron around it to shrink it down. Rinse + repeat!
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Jan 12, 2014 06:35
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The only thing I'd be worried about is if I stuff up I have to pay for it which is highly likely seeing as I've never soldered before and it's really awkward to get at anything in there. This is probably a dumb question but do I need to solder? What if I just twist the wires together and heatshrink it? I think I might just get a new harness instead of fixing the mess. http://www.manualslib.com/manual/86237/Kenwood-Kdc-Mp443u.html?page=18 I found that online, I think I could maybe use that and the other thing to get it right. Can you get universal harnesses or something if I can't find a kenwood one? underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 12, 2014 06:52
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:The only thing I'd be worried about is if I stuff up I have to pay for it which is highly likely seeing as I've never soldered before and it's really awkward to get at anything in there. This is probably a dumb question but do I need to solder? What if I just twist the wires together and heatshrink it? If you already have wires soldered around by the PO it makes more sense to just solder everything without buying at 'kenwood to Subaru' harness adaptor. And yes, you need to solder it. It's very easy and an important life skill. You're asking for electrical gremlins with unsoldered connections. It's fun to solder anyways so just do it.
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Jan 12, 2014 07:25
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I don't have light to do it tonight but I guess I'll go find someone who owns a soldering iron who will let me borrow it tomorrow morning then.
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Jan 12, 2014 08:40
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The previous guy just cut out the original plug in the dash and soldered all of the wires directly to the head unit? That is annoying. I just installed a Alpine KTP-445U amp yesterday, and used the breakout harness from ae64.com. It made things really easy and also no permanent changes to the car's wiring. I haven't soldered much in my life, but its not that hard. But also I was working at my kitchen table and not inside of a dash. Soldering is the best, but you can also crimp butt splice connectors. But soldering is the best. Basic soldering guide http://www.whoolie.com/solder.htm If you have one of those soldering irons with the pointy end, use the fat part further up the shaft, you get better heat transfer. Also clean the iron with the sponge between solders. If you leave the solder on the iron, chemicals react and it will literally eat away at the tip and you'll have to get a new tip. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 12, 2014 16:53
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I need your help with a vexing issue: my battery died and had to be replaced, now my abs, ebrake and dccd lights are on. I did the diagnostic procedure and it gives dccd code 25. How can I get this to go back to normal?
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Jan 12, 2014 18:47
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