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dukeku posted:
Niiice. I'm always asking this because I'm an exposure dope but what did you meter for in these pictures? The dynamic range is insane. Like it looks like what you'd see on a HDR digital shot. Also "A view into the fish ladder" Something interesting I've found with MF/LF compared to when I shot 35mm is that I MUCH prefer the look of Ektar 100 now. I'm still a Portra groupie but from stuff I've shot on 6x6, I think the Ektar looks much better than it does on 35mm, which I was never impressed with. Quantum of Phallus fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 12, 2014 14:55
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Welp my Hassey just jammed up on me. Mirror is locked up, winding crank is all sorts of misaligned and loose, and because of all this the lens is stuck on the body. I'm sure it's just a spring that's messed up so I'll be shipping it off to David Odess for a CLA, which it was obviously due for anyway, but it's still a pretty big bummer. Does KEH have a warranty policy? I'm probably outside of it as I am creeping up on a year, but their customer service is pretty great and I wonder if they would do me a solid.dukeku posted:
These are loving killer. pootiebigwang fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 12, 2014 16:09
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pootiebigwang posted:Welp my Hassey just jammed up on me. Mirror is locked up, winding crank is all sorts of misaligned and loose, and because of all this the lens is stuck on the body. I'm sure it's just a spring that's messed up so I'll be shipping it off to David Odess for a CLA, which it was obviously due for anyway, but it's still a pretty big bummer. Does KEH have a warranty policy? I'm probably outside of it as I am creeping up on a year, but their customer service is pretty great and I wonder if they would do me a solid. Six months is their standard policy (just had to ship a camera back).
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Jan 12, 2014 17:20
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dukeku posted:
Great stuff man
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Jan 13, 2014 02:48
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Quantum of Phallus posted:I'm always asking this because I'm an exposure dope but what did you meter for in these pictures? The dynamic range is insane. Like it looks like what you'd see on a HDR digital shot. I just used an incident meter, standing in about the middle of each shot, pointing the top of the dome at the camera.
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Jan 13, 2014 04:20
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pootiebigwang posted:Welp my Hassey just jammed up on me. Mirror is locked up, winding crank is all sorts of misaligned and loose, and because of all this the lens is stuck on the body. I'm sure it's just a spring that's messed up so I'll be shipping it off to David Odess for a CLA, which it was obviously due for anyway, but it's still a pretty big bummer. Does KEH have a warranty policy? I'm probably outside of it as I am creeping up on a year, but their customer service is pretty great and I wonder if they would do me a solid. You didn't mount an uncocked lens on a cocked body (or vice versa) did you?
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Jan 13, 2014 04:27
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8th-snype posted:You didn't mount an uncocked lens on a cocked body (or vice versa) did you? Nah the lens hasn't left the body since I got it. It happened in the middle of a shoot, was on the last frame and the shutter wouldn't fire, tried to wind it but the winding crank felt really loose and the mirror never went down. I've since got the mirror to go back down but the lens is still stuck. There has to be a spring or something that has fallen out of the winding crank because it will not go back to it's original position and it has little to no tension when rotating it. The rear flap (the bottom one specifically) is also stuck open and will not close. It's pretty loving tragic and I have no idea what caused this to happen, I'm just going to call David Odess tomorrow and hear what he has to say and hope that he can repair whatever the hell went wrong.
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Jan 13, 2014 05:29
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pootiebigwang posted:Nah the lens hasn't left the body since I got it. It happened in the middle of a shoot, was on the last frame and the shutter wouldn't fire, tried to wind it but the winding crank felt really loose and the mirror never went down. I've since got the mirror to go back down but the lens is still stuck. There has to be a spring or something that has fallen out of the winding crank because it will not go back to it's original position and it has little to no tension when rotating it. The rear flap (the bottom one specifically) is also stuck open and will not close. It's pretty loving tragic and I have no idea what caused this to happen, I'm just going to call David Odess tomorrow and hear what he has to say and hope that he can repair whatever the hell went wrong. That sucks, was hoping it was just jammed. 
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Jan 13, 2014 06:16
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 Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr I'm actually convinced it was this man's intense gaze that caused my camera to spontaneously combust.
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Jan 13, 2014 06:55
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Goddamn it. I completely forgot to add an extra minute for my first developer (E-6) for constant rotational agitation as opposed to turning the development can. Ugh. 4 rolls of film and there's some good shots in there that I can't use because the density of the film is utterly impenetrable  At least the first mistake of the new year is out of the way nice and early.  A Deeper Kind of Slumber by falamh, on Flickr The Clit Avoider fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Jan 13, 2014 |
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Jan 13, 2014 12:53
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Spedman posted:Rad. I'm teaching a class at a community center and I'm talking about different types of cameras right now. I'd love to use this as an example of homebuilt technology. Would you mind if I saved these pics and showed them in class?
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Jan 13, 2014 17:28
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McMadCow posted:I'm teaching a class at a community center and I'm talking about different types of cameras right now. I'd love to use this as an example of homebuilt technology. Would you mind if I saved these pics and showed them in class? I wouldn't mind at all, heres some higher-res versions if you need them: http://mrstudent.tumblr.com/post/73059731438/ive-nearly-finished-my-second-home-made-8x10 Just post in here if you need anymore info on the camera. On the 8x10 stuff I'm doing, I've bought a box of X-ray film to do some shooting and alt printing with. Its the half-speed blue kind, so it has an ISO of around 12, and is sensitive to the blue/UV so will end up looking like a fairly high contrast wet-plate image. You can also get x-ray film in green sensitive (both in full and "half" speeds), where the full speed is around 100-200 ISO depending on your lighting conditions. And a box of 100 8x10 sheets is around $70, which includes around $35 shipping to Australia, and you can get it in huge sizes too, like 10x14 at really good prices. For the alt-printing, the high contrast negative you get from the x-ray film should suit really well.
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Jan 13, 2014 23:09
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Does anyone have any experience doing large prints from medium format film? I'm shooting 6x9 120 if that matters. The places around me (and the Epson V600/700) all seem to do something like 6400x9600 which is awesome, but not nearly as large as I was hoping to go. I was hoping for something like 8100x12000. My end goal is to get something poster size in print quality (27x41 or thereabouts). Do I need to go larger than medium format? For the magic shot that I want to print, is it worth paying a place to drum scan? Any color films I should go towards? I'm using Portra 400 now.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:01
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It all depends on how high dpi you're going to print, from my limited printing experience a lot of places will do up to 400dpi, so the scan res you're after seems like overkill.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:04
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I was guessing at 240-300, but then again I'm familiar with how pixels look like blown up. Film seems to be a different beast. Do I even scan for a large print, or do they make the print from the negative?
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Jan 14, 2014 01:07
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A 6x9 frame scanned at 3200dpi will be ~260dpi if the short end is 27" and in my experience that's plenty fine, especially for a large print. You can get optical enlargements but they'll be ridiculously, absurdly expensive for anything bigger than 11x14.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:21
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How are you planning on having this printed? Inkjet is a different beast from wet lab processes (which are each their own similar but slightly-different beasts). If you're not paying an arm and half a leg, you can be certain any wet lab process is going to be working from a scan. Printing optically requires a graybeard to venture into the actual darkroom, assuming the lab even still has a darkroom and an enlarger, and printing at that size is not without its perils and extremely long exposure times. In general, though, you probably don't need nearly as much resolution as you're thinking. Even 6400 px at 27" is 237ppi, putting you almost bang-on with the 240 ppi a whole bunch of lab equipment runs at. Edit: But if you love it enough to drum scan it, drum scan it. Flatbeds aren't bad, but a competently-operated drum scanner is a world apart. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 01:33
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I'm shooting MF for literally one shot. If I get it, it's getting printed, framed, and mounted in my living room. I wouldn't mind paying a few hundred $$ for scanning/printing it at that point. Everything else is pretty much practice for that shot at the moment.
luchadornado fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 01:43
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Helicity posted:I'm shooting MF for literally one shot at the moment. If I get it, it's getting printed, framed, and mounted in my living room. I wouldn't mind paying a few hundred $$ for scanning/printing it at that point. Everything else is pretty much practice for that shot at the moment. Then yes, pay for an archival wet-mounted drum scan on the best machine with the best operator (more important than machine) you can find.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:46
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Helicity posted:For the magic shot that I want to print, is it worth paying a place to drum scan? Any color films I should go towards? I'm using Portra 400 now. One thing -- if you're after the best possible resolution - and if that "magic shot" allows it, consider going slide, like Provia 100 or even Velvia 50, if the strong saturation doesn't bother you. Why? Because I'm regularly scanning Portra 160 and 400 on a dedicated MF scanner, and while it's no drum scan I can still (easily with Portra 400) hit the point where I'm basically limited by the film grain. No point scanning at much higher resolution; so if you want the best, you should at least be using Portra 160, Ektar 100 -- or, like I said before, slow slide film.
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Jan 14, 2014 02:30
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Thanks for all the tips everyone. I think this will be difficult, but I'm also thinking I'll be the only one getting up close MF shots of my subjects. This is likely the type of lighting environment I will be dealing with: I won't have a long time to get my exposure right, I'll probably just bracket 3-4 shots manually just to make sure. I'll look into the Velvia slide or something similar, but now ISO 100 is another problem with a lens that is only f3.5 (Fuji GW690ii). luchadornado fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 02:43
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Well gently caress. Got frustrated dealing with the shutter speed issues on my Yashica (it was just serviced! Whyyyyy is it sluggish again?!) and kinda wanted something with built in metering, so I went all in on a Pentax 67ii from KEH. My forthcoming crappy photos notwithstanding, someone tell me I made a good decision before it gets here and my girlfriend notices the new camera...
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Jan 14, 2014 03:10
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Shellman posted:Well gently caress. You made a good choice, but why the 67 II model? IMHO it adds little that's required for shooting and it costs a load more. Well I guess that means you can probably sell it for more, too. Probably. Still, any Pentax 6x7 or 67 is a nice camera.
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Jan 14, 2014 03:28
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Spedman posted:I wouldn't mind at all, heres some higher-res versions if you need them: Awesome, thanks! 
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Jan 15, 2014 16:03
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I have a bunch of Acros burning a hole in my fridge, so I decided to tape some to the film holders for my whole plate Century camera. It ends up with a 6x19cm negative, which is pretty neat. Heres one shot that I liked (hopefully it's not too wide to break tables):  Wide by mr_student, on Flickr I don't have a shutter on this camera, so I just stopped down to f/64 and used my hand for the 4s exposure.
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Jan 16, 2014 12:41
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Helicity posted:Thanks for all the tips everyone. I think this will be difficult, but I'm also thinking I'll be the only one getting up close MF shots of my subjects. This is likely the type of lighting environment I will be dealing with: You're going out to take a huge picture of a tornado?
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Jan 16, 2014 14:03
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Awkward Davies posted:You're going out to take a huge picture of a tornado? I've taken pictures of several dozen with crop sensor DSLR/mirrorless (including that one you quoted) - why not try for medium format film? I haven't seen it done before.
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Jan 16, 2014 15:21
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Jan 17, 2014 02:13
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VomitOnLino posted:You made a good choice, but why the 67 II model? IMHO it adds little that's required for shooting and it costs a load more. The metering is mostly what made me look at the 67ii (though I probably could have gotten an older model and a nice lightmeter too...) It probably isn't necessary, but having aperture priority and three different metering modes is pretty nice...I suppose there's also the bonus of it looking pretty drat new--KEH had it greated EX and I wouldn't have known that it had been used save for a few scratches on the battery door and the leatherette coming up in one place. KEH delivered it today to my surprise, and holy wow this thing is heavy. And loud. And I already feel totally vindicated in my purchase. Can't wait to shoot and develop a few rolls.
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Jan 17, 2014 02:14
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Shellman posted:The metering is mostly what made me look at the 67ii (though I probably could have gotten an older model and a nice lightmeter too...) It probably isn't necessary, but having aperture priority and three different metering modes is pretty nice...I suppose there's also the bonus of it looking pretty drat new--KEH had it greated EX and I wouldn't have known that it had been used save for a few scratches on the battery door and the leatherette coming up in one place.  You can get a metered prism on all the P67 bodies.
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Jan 17, 2014 03:18
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Casu Marzu posted:
From what I understood that metered prism didn't have spot/center weighted/matrix options, just averaged metering? If I'm wrong, guess that's a chance for me to return this and save some cash... Do most people just carry this around by the handle? I was debating hooking it up to my Blackrapid strap but just a little wary of having it dangle around from that. (More wary than having my dSLR hang from it for some reason.)
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Jan 17, 2014 03:23
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Shellman posted:From what I understood that metered prism didn't have spot/center weighted/matrix options, just averaged metering? If I'm wrong, guess that's a chance for me to return this and save some cash... Oh yeah, if you wanna get all snooty like that.  I either keep it in my bag until I need to take a shot or strap it onto my blackrapid.
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Jan 17, 2014 03:44
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Shellman posted:From what I understood that metered prism didn't have spot/center weighted/matrix options, just averaged metering? If I'm wrong, guess that's a chance for me to return this and save some cash... It does indeed "only" have averaged metering, but I found it to be spot on in all cases. Even with slide film I have yet to have it cock up. Of course the general meter restrictions apply, such as be careful around beaches, oceans and snow and black stuff etc., but those apply to your fancy meter, too. Not putting a fine point on it, basically besides the fact that having a newer body probably means better repair chances I fail to see the photographic benefit of this decision.
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Jan 17, 2014 03:53
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Casu Marzu posted:Oh yeah, if you wanna get all snooty like that. I used a blackrapid too, it works great.
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Jan 17, 2014 04:19
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Neat. What film are those?
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Jan 17, 2014 06:59
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This seems really strange. The lamps are lit, suggesting the sun is setting or rising. The very dark shadow areas suggest the same thing. Meanwhile the buildings in the background are brightly lit, suggesting it's high day. If this is really what you saw, then fine, but I don't think it's at all an interesting picture then. If it was actually getting dark then your processing doesn't indicate it.
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Jan 17, 2014 11:37
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nielsm posted:This seems really strange. The lamps are lit, suggesting the sun is setting or rising. The very dark shadow areas suggest the same thing. Meanwhile the buildings in the background are brightly lit, suggesting it's high day. If this is really what you saw, then fine, but I don't think it's at all an interesting picture then. If it was actually getting dark then your processing doesn't indicate it. It just looks like twilight to me. Nothing about it suggests high day at all to my eyes. I do, however, very much like it.
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Jan 17, 2014 11:55
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Interesting stuff, this guy made his own open-source 3D printed MF box camera: http://kekado.zapto.org/kevin/open.html Photos of the construction and film shots from it here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostedbutts/sets/72157638372089455/
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Jan 18, 2014 03:07
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Shooting sports on the Yashica is...challenging. 
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Jan 18, 2014 06:41
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Shooting sports on the Yashica is...challenging. First one owns.
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Jan 18, 2014 07:23
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