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Oh, gotcha, yeah. I actually ended up with one of these that I'm going to stick under my saw. Should be about as minimal in the fuss department as I can get for installing dust collection on that thing.
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Jan 12, 2014 05:19
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I'm planning on revamping my saw a bit... 1) Replace the factory melamine right side extension (which has sagged over the years) with a mini-torsion box version. 2) Finally make an outfeed table extension that extends past the motor then folds down. 3) Replace the factory metal stand with an MDF or plywood cabinet painted to match the saw with built in DC port and maybe a small amount of storage. 4) Add a shelf underneath the right extension table. 5) Scotchbrite & WD40 the cast iron top and extension. It isn't rusty just stained and turned dark over the years.
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Jan 12, 2014 08:08
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My current table saw setup (my dad's actually) is a 1960's craftman with the cast iron grill wings and a fence that you need to use a square every time. The motor runs in the opposite direction so the belt has a twist, and the only way to turn it on and off is to plug/unplug it. Yesterday it hopped the pulley 5 times in three cuts and the height adjustment wheel stripped its threads and fell off. . . I soooo want to buy a newish delta cabinet saw! Edit: Just looked at the prices of delta table saws on Amazon and realized why that dream will never happen. . . any 2nd place saws I should look at (cabinet style). Blistex fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 12, 2014 16:46
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Blistex posted:My current table saw setup (my dad's actually) is a 1960's craftman with the cast iron grill wings and a fence that you need to use a square every time. The motor runs in the opposite direction so the belt has a twist, and the only way to turn it on and off is to plug/unplug it. Grizzly. How much do you want to spend?
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Jan 13, 2014 00:14
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ShadowStalker posted:Grizzly. How much do you want to spend? Under 1K. Anyone here tried using a Polar Bear? (G0715P) Reviews seem to be positive for the most part.
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Jan 13, 2014 01:47
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Are you stuck to buying new? I see at least a dozen Delta's on craigslist by me for $400-900.
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Jan 13, 2014 19:58
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Until my shop is done and I can bring over my 56' Atlas 10" Cabinet saw, I've been using my dad's old 1970's Craftsman 10" Contractors saw. It sat behind our shop and outside for... two years. Mostly covered.... We used it for ripping cement board and 2" foam a few months back. My OCD kicked in this weekend while I was waiting for a friend to help me fix one of the new garage doors and I remembered we had some Boeshield T9. Here's the results. Before:      Now, I ended up doing a few extra steps. After I applied the acid based cleaner and rubbed it with a scotch brite, I sprayed the top down the WD40 and used a scraper to remove anything else. Then I degreased the entire saw, blew it off with the air chuck, and wiped the entire thing down with blue shop towels. After I got nothing on the towels, I applied the topcoat spray on wax/sealer. After 30 minutes I buffed that down and applied a 2nd coat. The top's now incredibly smooth. While I waited for the 2nd coat to dry I also waxed the gears/threads. I realize this is a bit overkill for a $50 saw, but at least this way I can start making some shop furniture, like a stand for my planer. I did toss a cheap Irwin Marathon 40T $15 blade on it and for the price, it's amazing. I can't wait to try the Marples 50T I ordered. The temp shop.  I also got bored and made new sacrificial strips for the fence, tsquare, and my drill press. Ignore my friend in the background, haha. 
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Jan 13, 2014 20:08
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the spyder posted:Are you stuck to buying new? I see at least a dozen Delta's on craigslist by me for $400-900. Northern Ontario, specifically the Sudbury area. Only results I have been seeing on craigslist and kijiji are at opposite ends of the spectrum. $1.5k cabinet saws and $150 portables.
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Jan 13, 2014 22:39
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Stultus Maximus posted:Dumb question but what do you use to make the wheels? No such thing as a dumb question. First I use a forstner bit to make the indent in the center, then cut out the wheel using an appropriately sized hole saw. Then it's a matter of sanding and making attaching them to the axels. I promised some woodshop porn. Here's my home for the next 6 weeks: One half:  The other:  And from the other side:  And the cabriole leg that we had to carve as our first assignment: 
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Jan 14, 2014 03:12
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Blistex posted:Northern Ontario, specifically the Sudbury area. Only results I have been seeing on craigslist and kijiji are at opposite ends of the spectrum. $1.5k cabinet saws and $150 portables. I don't own any Grizzly machines but I would. By all reports they have exceptional customer service.
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Jan 14, 2014 04:01
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I own a Grizzly bandsaw and have been happy with the tool quality and what little support I've needed for it.
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Jan 14, 2014 04:21
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I'm probably going to snag a 8" helical jointer in the summer from them. Really decent tools. A product engineering told me years ago that every brand comes from the same casting house. The only differences are the finishing refinements and quality control. Jet is top tier, Grizzly middle, HF lowest.
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Jan 14, 2014 05:45
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SO what is the general consensus for decent table saw blades? My brother ran a few pieces with nails threw my brand new blade.
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Jan 14, 2014 06:52
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I've never heard people complain about Freud blades, but we need more info on what you're going to be doing, and what is your wood of choice. Read this first: http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=691
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Jan 14, 2014 07:01
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That article is great, and my thought is that if you bother owning a TS at all, then all your cuts should look like the left one in image B. That is, rips should all be smooth and cross-cuts should almost look burnished, like sanding them will rough them up. If that's too much to ask, you may want to just own a Bandsaw and disc sander. I've owned a few blades, including Freud. Once I got a Forrest WWII, I never looked at anything else. They are not THAT much more expensive than others, and they can be resharpened like new several times. Just know that they don't make flat-bottom cuts if you intend to cut perfect slots, but that's never been an issue for me. Also, you may be mildly upset at your brother, but have a serious shop-safety talk with him.
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Jan 14, 2014 07:18
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jvick posted:SO what is the general consensus for decent table saw blades? My brother ran a few pieces with nails threw my brand new blade. The Woodworker blades pretty much win every shootout with Freud a very close second. In the middling price category, the new Marples blades get good reviews from users, some Amana blades generally do well, and the Dewalt blades are actually excellent to my surprise. I have a couple Dewalt construction series blades, not even their best, one on my miter and one I sometimes use on the table saw and they do an excellent job.
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Jan 14, 2014 08:17
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I went with a Tenryu Gold, only because I found one half price locally from a fellow who "tried" wood working and ended up being allergic to most sawdust. He only found this out after spending $$$$'s on tools for his retirement. http://www.amazon.com/Tenryu-GM-25540-Carbide-Tipped-Blade/dp/B000FXY38M
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Jan 14, 2014 16:27
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Blistex posted:I've never heard people complain about Freud blades, but we need more info on what you're going to be doing, and what is your wood of choice. Thanks for the article, I'll take a look. I only do this as a hobby, so most of my cutting is either ripping or angled cuts. I also have a RAS, and jointer for length cuts and surfacing. I rarely work with maples, and oaks, so I'm nothing super dense. Mostly various pines, some cherry, etc. jvick fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 18:13
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I find this chair intriguing and imagine sitting on it around a campfire but looks like it would split all to hell. http://www.peter-jakubik.com/2011/01/panton-s-homemade-arbor-chair.html
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Jan 14, 2014 21:49
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That looks really sturdy to me. Looks to be oak, I bet it has very little flex.
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Jan 15, 2014 00:28
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Blistex posted:Under 1K. Anyone here tried using a Polar Bear? (G0715P) Reviews seem to be positive for the most part. A little late to the game, but I have one and I give it about a 4.5/5. The red coating on the insert plate rubs off eventually, and you'll need to get it re-powdercoated. The riving knife is great and easy to remove, the blade guard is not great, got rid of it a month after I got it. It will cost an extra $100 or so to get it to going on 110V, with the fuse conversion, new plug, and an extension cord if you need it. Assembly wasn't terrible, a couple of weeknights. I've had it for almost two years and it hasn't given me any trouble than the belt loosening once and making me think a capacitor was blown. Plenty of power for anything I've done. Cut a solid door like butter. It's heavy as poo poo, get the mobile base. Ask me anything specific you got, but I would definitely buy it again if I could timetravel.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:40
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Good to know. I think I'd just wire up a 220v and skip the extra $100. My mom was just telling me today that she thinks we need a new table saw and was wondering if I wanted to go 50-50 on a new one with her. I think my family might qualify as the world's smallest hackerspace.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:44
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Having switched all my tools over to 240 that I could, and adding a couple more, I can say that 240 is awesome. Of course, part of my love is that so many things ended up on their own circuits instead of sharing, but still.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:46
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I'm in a detached 17'x17' shop and ran 3x 20amp lines underground, then built a deck over the ground where it's buried. Now I want more power. I have regrets. We should have a "Show me what you're working with" thread. Give everyone a reason to clean up their shop.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:54
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Three 20A 120V lines, or three 20A 240V lines? Because you could at least convert the former to the latter without changing the buried lines at all, and you'll find any tools that can be switched over use half the amperage at 240V. You just have to be sure to mark the former-neutrals as hot any place they can be accessed.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:58
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With all the times people have asked about building tables, this pdf from Popular Woodworking would be good for the OP. http://d2amilv9vi9flo.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/BuildaTable.pdf edit: indirect link just in case http://www.popularwoodworking.com/how-to-build-a-table wormil fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jan 18, 2014 |
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Jan 18, 2014 07:46
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wormil posted:With all the times people have asked about building tables, this pdf from Popular Woodworking would be good for the OP. Nice, thanks for the information! I found something similar on basic cabinetry. http://www.kregtool.com/prodImages/basic_cabinetmaking_booklet.pdf
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Jan 18, 2014 17:26
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It's bloody cold and I could only stand about an hour in an unheated garage, so I had to keep this session short. I bought two Rotring pencils and decided classy implements like these should have fitting holders. I hate to throw walnut away, no matter how small the scraps are, so I decided this would be a good recycling project that I could finish before my fingers froze. A simple upright with a felt-lined interior to keep the pencils from scratching. It's totally black walnut, but looked too boring with just one colour, so I took a blonde streak and inlayed it into the front.  Just a classic open-faced holder with a felt lining. 
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Jan 19, 2014 05:16
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Blistex posted:It's bloody cold and I could only stand about an hour in an unheated garage, so I had to keep this session short. I bought two Rotring pencils and decided classy implements like these should have fitting holders. I hate to throw walnut away, no matter how small the scraps are, so I decided this would be a good recycling project that I could finish before my fingers froze. Nice work. I bought a ceiling mount radiant heater for my garage this winter on sale at Canadian Tire. It doesn't heat the whole garage, but I point it at myself while I work and it keeps me warm enough that I don't freeze.
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Jan 19, 2014 15:55
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So, I have a Norm's Adirondack chair almost done. Just gotta plug the holes and attach the seat slats. It's make from mahogany and I'm debating if I need to treat it with any kind of outdoor protection, since it will mostly be outside year round in the midwest. I know a lot of the cheaper wood ones end up getting outdoor paint put on them but obviously this wood look nice enough that if needed I'd like to just make sure it'll last a good 30 years outside. Opinions?
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Jan 19, 2014 15:55
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Anubis posted:So, I have a Norm's Adirondack chair almost done. Just gotta plug the holes and attach the seat slats. It's make from mahogany and I'm debating if I need to treat it with any kind of outdoor protection, since it will mostly be outside year round in the midwest. I know a lot of the cheaper wood ones end up getting outdoor paint put on them but obviously this wood look nice enough that if needed I'd like to just make sure it'll last a good 30 years outside. Opinions? I'm jealous. Did you order/find plans?
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Jan 19, 2014 20:39
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My Morris chair is starting to take shape, it can even stand on it's own. I still need to figure out what to do with the arms, my bandsaw doesn't have the power to resaw 6" cherry. I need to buy a new one or find someone with a big one soon...
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Jan 19, 2014 21:50
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the spyder posted:I'm jealous. Did you order/find plans? The library had a set in a book I checked out but I ended up using someone's helpful PDF where everything was scanned in and blew up to life size already for easy printing it at kinkos. That way I could just double side tape it to some mdf and make a complete jig set. Right now I'm leaning heavily towards teak oil unless someone knows something I don't.
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Jan 19, 2014 22:26
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http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/August_05_Norms_Adirondack.pdf was this the helpful pdf?
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Jan 19, 2014 23:39
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MrPete posted:http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/August_05_Norms_Adirondack.pdf No, Norm actually did 2 shows on the adirondack chair. The first one was one of his first ever projects I think in season 1 or 2. The second show was Anubis fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Jan 20, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 02:26
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The original is on Youtube. I'm planning on building four this summer and would love to find plans.
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Jan 20, 2014 02:31
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Since Home Depot is doing 20% off, I used a cardpool gift card for another 8.5% off and bought a Makita track saw for $300 shipped. I wanted one during the Amazon winter deal- when it was $375, but it was not a good enough deal. This one I could not pass up.
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Jan 20, 2014 02:33
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the spyder posted:The original is on Youtube. I'm planning on building four this summer and would love to find plans. I too would like to build a few, although I also want to build a scaled-down small one for my daughter. 
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Jan 20, 2014 02:36
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Any tricks for taking off a corner of square piece of wood like a 4x4? Part of the issues is that I only need to do it to about 1/4 of it's length. Need to remove the red area in pic. I've most of the normal tools including a table saw etc.. 
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Jan 20, 2014 05:57
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Tindjin posted:Any tricks for taking off a corner of square piece of wood like a 4x4? Part of the issues is that I only need to do it to about 1/4 of it's length. Set your table saw blade to the required angle and add a stop block at the required length.
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Jan 20, 2014 06:05
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