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You can also try something like a ball point click pen.
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Jan 9, 2014 21:44
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:Got a chance to watch that video on fading a lure. I will try that out, but I don't know if Thor is actually smart enough/used to training enough to get it in 3 tries like that. I tried really hard to get him to follow my treatless hand after a couple with treats and he just stared at me like I was an rear end in a top hat. You could even use one of those "check if button is depressed for freshness" lids if it makes a noise thats audible but not startling. Or you could click using your mouth?
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Jan 9, 2014 21:45
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:Got a chance to watch that video on fading a lure. I will try that out, but I don't know if Thor is actually smart enough/used to training enough to get it in 3 tries like that. I tried really hard to get him to follow my treatless hand after a couple with treats and he just stared at me like I was an rear end in a top hat. Saying yes is just fine. Sometimes you kind of have to fool the dog into thinking there's food in the hand. Use some slight of hand to slip the treat out, lure with an empty but closed hand, then reward from your other hand. Surprise! There was no food in there! But here's some food! My chihuahua is dumber than a bag of rocks, so we had some difficulty fading the lure there too. Just keep at it and break it down into pieces if you're having trouble.
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Jan 9, 2014 21:45
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Yeah I stopped using an actual clicker years ago and just use "Good!" as a verbal marker. Mainly because I never remember to have a clicker on me ever no matter what.
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Jan 9, 2014 21:48
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False alarm?
Away all Goats fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jan 11, 2014 |
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Jan 11, 2014 02:32
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I took PG (now 12 weeks) to the vet for her booster shots. I mentioned the regression in potty training, how she quickly squats when we let her out, runs back in, then soon pees again later (and again later, and later...). She's not holding it as long as she should for her age. The vet guessed she might have a UTI so she gave us antibiotics and hopefully we will see some improvements soon. Unfortunately puppy play class didn't have any one sign up, so we are thinking of puppy kindergarten, but more likely puppy daycare since winter break is over and I am back to work for 9-10 hours a day  I don't want to leave her alone that long AT ALL, and this way she gets to play with other puppies and hopefully learn some bite inhibition.
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Jan 11, 2014 04:42
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Superconsndar posted:Yeah I stopped using an actual clicker years ago and just use "Good!" as a verbal marker. Mainly because I never remember to have a clicker on me ever no matter what. Yup, I just use praise. If I was trying to train for tricks and poo poo I'd use a clicker, but praise followed by pets or treats when she waits like she's supposed to works just as well.
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Jan 11, 2014 04:53
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I went to get 10 week old Sherlock today. I kinda can't stop taking pictures of him but he moves at lightening speed and in the low light it's pretty much impossible to take pictures of. Right now he's going NUTS in his pen like a cyclone of activity after waking up from his nap. edit: 10 minutes later he's sleeping again. luscious fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 11, 2014 23:45
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anaaki posted:The vet guessed she might have a UTI so she gave us antibiotics and hopefully we will see some improvements soon.
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Jan 12, 2014 03:05
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Riiseli posted:This would be my guess as well. The vet didn't sent a sample for a culture? Or even use urine test strips or microscope to check the urine for infection or bacteria? Just gave you antibiotics? They tried to catch a urine sample but didn't have very much luck. In better news... we found a day care very much near our work with reasonable rates! Going to check it out as soon as possible. No more Houdini dog eating cat food or litter-box snacks while we're at work!
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Jan 12, 2014 05:38
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anaaki posted:They tried to catch a urine sample but didn't have very much luck.
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Jan 12, 2014 06:46
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Riiseli posted:I always take urine samples at home using a sterilized (oven) glass jar and a similarly treated steel sauna ladle. But we've once done a needle aspiration at the vets, which could've been an option for you. Good to know. I thought they were doing a needle, because that's how my last vet took samples from my cat when he had a blockage. Hmm. This is a new vet for us. So far she seems nice but we've not run into any emergencies yet. We just moved to this area. My last one was amazing 
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Jan 12, 2014 17:41
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So even though it's really relatively warm right now (-1C / 30F) and he's wearing a warm coat and is able to warm up with a MagicBag after, Sherlock is still super upset by and freaking out when in the cold. The next week will be much colder and I'm thinking that I might actually have to build an indoor litterbox thing for him He's a tiny Boston Terrier and being outside even for a few minutes is enough to make us all shiver :/ I'm going to be moving soon and it will be warmer when I do. I still plan on introducing him to the outside and getting him used to being in the cold, I just worry that if I try to wait him out when it's this cold it will do my harm than good.
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Jan 12, 2014 22:40
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luscious posted:I just worry that if I try to wait him out when it's this cold it will do my harm than good.
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Jan 13, 2014 07:50
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Over the last few months my girlfriend and I have been working on getting our backyard finishes so we can adopt/foster a dog. What was previously a grey sand pit is now a small, green backyard, with garden paths down the side. Hours of blood, sweat and beers. In a couple of weeks it will be entirely finished in time for our new family member to come along and possibly undo all our hard work. Anyway, due to the size of the yard (small), we're looking at fostering (with possible foster failure) a larger (read: lazy breed) dog, rescued through the same group we foster cats and kittens for. That therein is where the problem lies. With little furry bastards through the house, what's the best way to introduce a dog who has been listed as cat friendly (ie, has been exposed to cats and reacts positively in previous homes) to new cats and vice versa? Real life situations and experiences preferred, rather than textbook best case scenario. We're initially going to start with supervised at all times when in the house, and leave out of the house while we're out, until we're 100% they can be trusted together unsupervised. Also, what cool dog stuff do I want to get them?!
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Jan 13, 2014 12:37
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Riiseli posted:Don't wait, move around as much as possible. If you can go for small walks do that. My friend has maybe a three pound (she's tiny still) minpin, which will relatively happily exercise in colder temperatures with her coat on, but doesn't want to stand around in the cold. You can also try fashioning socks from for instance fleece for him. Paws are p much the first part to cause discomfort in cold weather to any dog. We've been going for little walks and you're right... as long as we're moving it's fine - it's when we stop that he starts to cry. I take him for just a few minutes at a time and so far he hasn't gone poop or pee outside. In fact, it's pretty much the first thing that he does once we get inside. When I see it happening I ignore him and clean it up silently. I tried moving him to a "designated area" but he definitely didn't understand. I'm hoping that taking him out every hour and having our walks get longer and longer will eventually have him pottying outside. When that happens there will be a party. This is what he spends most of his days doing 
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Jan 13, 2014 17:03
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Hi PI! Two months ago I adopted a dog from our shelter, Dee! I was in the market for a laid back dog to be a companion, with a french bulldog in mind. Or maybe an old big dog. Something friendly. I got terrible social anxiety and had a great experience fostering a lzy chihuahua so I thought I'd give it a try. After six months or so of not being able to find the perfect dog in any area shelters(besides the "Frenchie rescue: 1500$ rehoming fee!" sort of "rescues") I decided to take everyone's advice and stop being so breed specific and just pick out a dog that I liked. I ended up with this  They told me she's a shiba inu. Her piggy tail breaks hearts. She bounced around a few shelters, apparently she was on the chopping block and the shelters just traded her off until a no-kill one picked her up. One of her medical papers says she's a shiba inu border collie mix. They are unsure of her age, one of the vet papers says she's a little over 2 years old, another one says she's 1.5 years. Bossy people at the dog park insist she is under a year old. I figure the veterinarians know better than these people  She's excellent for the most part. She came already potty trained and crate trained, she can sit and stay and wait and shake and high five. She learns very quickly, it only took about five minutes before she had high five down. We're working on "sit pretty". Only once has she had an accident in the house, and it was just a little bit! In the car she knows "scoot" which means "get away from me I'm driving". When we're at home she is either sleeping in my lap or nearby. I can leave the house and trust she hasn't shitted all over the place or destroyed my nice shoes. She's not once ever destroyed anything of mine. She loves hugs so much BUT there are some things about her I'd like to fix if possible. -Any time she meets a new person she barks nonstop for 10 minutes. Once she knows them, it's cool. She won't bark at them again. But at first, man it sucks. -If she's not asleep, she has to be the center of attention. Even with a new bone and a full kong to distract her, if I have my phone in my hand or have something important to do on the computer she'll come and be a nuisance until I give up on whatever I'm doing or put her in her crate for a little while. -She's also super high energy. She seems to do alright if I only take her out for 2 1 mile walks a day, but she's pretty needy and wound up if that's all she gets. On a normal day I'll take her for a morning half mile walk then we'll go to the dog park (or some other off-leash free run) for about an hour and a half. After work I take her for another half mile-1 mile walk and then before bed we'll circle the block a few times. This seems to relax her, but while we're at the off leash park she shows no signs of stopping. We could be out there all day and she'd still be running laps around the perimeter of the park. -She's toy aggressive. She's gotten into two fights because she refuses to share. "drop it" has been the most difficult thing to teach her, I've found the only way to get her to let go of something is to have a better thing to trade her for it. And when she does the trade, she snatches it and hides it away. -She destroys toys. 5 kongs, a dozen tennis balls, all sorts of "tough wear" toys. They're like 15 bucks a pop, those fancy "indestructable" ones. Most of them don't last the car ride home. The only ones that have lasted have been a large x-treme kong and a dollar tree squeaky thing. -When off-leash, she bolts. She never runs out of sight, and she never goes to "new" places, but she goes all over the places she does know. We like to go on off leash walks with a group of dog park regulars whose dogs are very well behaved and never stray further than 30 feet or so away, but Dee just goes nuts. Now she's gotten so used to the mile long trail that I can let her off at the beginning, wait a few minutes, and she'll come running around the end. (I never let her off leash anywhere near roads, these parks are out in the country or designated off leash dog friendly areas) I love her to death, she's a very sweet dog, but pretty much the opposite of what I was looking for in a companion. It's difficult to take her with me anywhere because the first impression anyone ever gets of her is her terrible screaming. Whenever I take her to the cafe to sit out on the patio, she's just jumping around the whole time and barking at anyone who walks by. She's the opposite of laid back. I've been told by a lot of people that the dog will mirror the personality of the person who owns it. Sounds a lil phony to me, but if it's true that means I'm doomed to only ever have high strung anxious dogs ! Is this behavior something she will grow out of with age, or as she gets more familiar with her new living situation? Can I work on this at home, or am I going to have to take her to expensive obedience lessons? I don't want to do that.Sorry for the super long post, I've got so many questions !
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Jan 14, 2014 04:52
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Who was the everyone that told you to stop being breed specific? That's crazy to me. You're going to own a dog for 9-14 years and probably spend tens of thousands of dollars on food, training, toys, vet bills, etc so it's okay to be really picky about what you want. Having the right dog is amazing. I wouldn't think you're a jerk if you took her back to the shelter and found a dog that isn't the opposite of what you were looking for, there should be lots of shelter dogs that are friendly and low-medium energy. Primitive breeds are a high maintenance dog. It'll have that level of energy for a long time. Our husky could still easily walk 10km in the snow until she turned about 11 years old. She would walk fine on a leash but you could never let her off of it, she would almost always saunter off wherever she smelled something interesting. If she got out of the house, she would get on the side of the road and keep going, Littlest Hobo style. You can condition her to like new people but it'll take a lot of consistent work to get rid of the reactivity. I'd stop taking her to places where she does it. Find her threshold (maybe she's okay with people at 100 yards but starts to get on edge when they're closer) and give her treats for being calm and try to slowly make that distance smaller. Search the dog training thread for reactivity, there's a lot of good info in there. If she's being a nuisance while you work, give her a dog bed nearby and ignore her. That shouldn't take long to fix. I don't know much about resource guarding. I think it's more on you to manage it (don't have toys around other dogs) than to try to train it out. Fresh antlers last longer than any other chew toy I've found but keep an eye on it as they can splinter eventually. Most people I've met with primitive breeds have to keep them fenced or on-leash. They just seem to have too much energy and independence to stay close. I'm sure it's possible to teach them good recall, I've just never actually seen it. There's a whole thread about their personality quirks here, http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3344325 I think dogs do mirror their owners to a certain extent, especially the more eager to please breeds that you get as a puppy but most people also choose a dog that matches their own energy level. Lastly, check out the dog training thread, http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3364451 There's lots of good reading about resource guarding, reactivity and recall.
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Jan 14, 2014 06:05
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Take the dog back. Be honest to the staff about why. Choose a dog that actually fits your drat lifestyle. There's no sense in keeping her if you're both going to be miserable. Seriously, there's a pretty wide array of dogs in shelters. You're bound to find one that fits you better. She needs to go to a home with someone more outgoing and active, maybe someone into training.
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Jan 14, 2014 16:56
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Please do not feel bad if a dog isn't working in your home and it needs to go back. It's not fair to you or the dog. This sounds like a dog that needs an somewhat experienced trainer that wants a sporting type dog. The dog is missing out on a potential perfect home by being in a house that doesn't fit. Most of your issues are trainable, but take time. If you wanted a Frenchie get a Frenchie from a good breeder. There was a French Bulldog in our training class that was really sweet and was being trained to be a therapy dog. Very laid back puppy. cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 17:37
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Pick a dog based on personality and activity level over appearances. If you make the choice to give back Dee (which sounds like the right choice for both of you), take your time and foster some more. If one of your fosters completely clicks with you and your lifestyle, adopt them.
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Jan 14, 2014 17:45
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She looks exactly like my beagle mix, who does a lot of screaming/barking. Sometimes I wonder if the mailman thinks someone is being tortured in my home If it is a good shelter they will take the dog back and help you find a good fit.
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Jan 15, 2014 00:38
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roads posted:I was in the market for a laid back dog to be a companion, with a french bulldog in mind. roads posted:One of her medical papers says she's a shiba inu border collie mix. Nthing "it's OK to take the dog back if it's not working out for you." Jesus Christ.
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Jan 15, 2014 23:02
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Hi! I'm not a PI regular, so bear with me if this is a fairly mundane or silly series of questions. I don't have any pets, but my roommate's got a dog. A golden retriever - she's about 2 years old at this point. She's an absolute maniac, which can be fun at times, but usually isn't - that's hardly the issue at the moment, though. She's got fleas. And has had them for nearly 2 months at this point. Since discovering that she had fleas (which she likely got after going to a local dog park), my roommate now gives her 2 different flea medicines, and insists that at this point, all the fleas should die off... eventually. The problem is, they don't seem to have gone away. As far as I know, he's reapplying the medication as indicated, but his dog fairly regularly scratches herself, and I do find fleas on her sometimes when I'm petting her. Up to this point, I trusted that the fleas would go away because of the medicine - my roommate explained to me that the medicine does 2 things: it kills fleas that bite her, and infects any that may lay eggs before dying in a way that would kill the eggs before they hatch. Is that correct? It sure doesn't seem it. Of late, I think I've started to get flea bites on my legs, which I assume is from the fuckers biting me when I pet her, or something. My second question is - what the heck can I do to help? We've got a 2 bedroom apartment, which is unfortunately carpeted, but the dog never goes in my room - she's not allowed, and she knows it. Like I said, I work from home, so I spend pretty much all day here, and it's pretty loving disgusting to be fleabitten in my own home (not to mention how badly I feel for the dog). What's the best way to fight off the bastards? What can I do to fleaproof my apartment, furniture, clothes, etc? In the future, how can fleas be prevented? Finally, should the dog be kept away from other dogs at this point? I'm guessing yes...
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Jan 16, 2014 05:19
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There are flea powders you put into your carpet, leave for x hours and then vacuum - fleas can live in your carpet for a long time. I always used a flea collar for extended protection when there was a problem. They stop the fleas getting past the neck and for some reason this kills them. Science? Consider taking the dog to the vet and getting him shaved and bathed in a heavy duty flea bath. At this point drops or pills are probably not going to cut it.
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Jan 16, 2014 07:27
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You guys should be vacuuming daily, and tossing the bags daily. Under couches and tables, in all the corners, especially where the dog frequents. Dog beds should be washed frequently and placed in the dryer daily. Food grade diatomaceous earth can be placed on carpets and then vacuumed up to deal with some of the infestation. http://www.ehow.com/how_5049476_use-earth-safely-pest-control.html You might want to look into another brand of flea meds. It's entirely possible for the strain of fleas it has to have grown resistant to whatever drug the dog is on, so he may want to talk to his vet again. (He DID talk to a vet, right, and not just buy something made by Hartz?)
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Jan 16, 2014 13:35
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a life less posted:You might want to look into another brand of flea meds. It's entirely possible for the strain of fleas it has to have grown resistant to whatever drug the dog is on, so he may want to talk to his vet again. (He DID talk to a vet, right, and not just buy something made by Hartz?) This. Do not use the over the counter stuff. It can actually be very harmful to the pet and does dick all when it comes to fleas. Talk to your vet. They generally know what medicine is effective for the area based on the immunities. Honestly the dog should be on flea meds all year round (If you live in a warm climate) or at least during the warm seasons. It prevents this sort of problem and also protects them from other diseases like heartworm.
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Jan 16, 2014 15:06
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Nuntius posted:There are flea powders you put into your carpet, leave for x hours and then vacuum - fleas can live in your carpet for a long time. Flea collars are basically a waste of money, sorry. The dog is most likely getting reinfested from carpet and bedding. OP, the advice about vacuuming and washing bedding is what I would follow, as well as checking with the vet for a different medication. Shaving the dog isn't going to help as fleas spend most of the day not physically on their host, also it's a golden retriever and if you shave it you'll ruin its coat.
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Jan 16, 2014 15:53
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Roger, thanks for the advice. Will begin to vaccuum vigorously. What about clothing? Will the washing machine do?
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Jan 16, 2014 15:58
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MrSaturn posted:Roger, thanks for the advice. Will begin to vaccuum vigorously. What about clothing? Will the washing machine do? I think the heat from the dryer is best for killing them. A wash + dry is probably ideal.
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Jan 16, 2014 16:06
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Will do. Thanks! loving fleas. I'll keep you guys updated on how this all goes. I'm going to recommend he takes the dog to the vet today when he gets back from work.
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Jan 16, 2014 16:16
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MrSaturn posted:Will do. Thanks! loving fleas. I'll keep you guys updated on how this all goes. I'm going to recommend he takes the dog to the vet today when he gets back from work. As everyone else has said, pretty much all old-school style flea methods are worthless or dangerous (flea collars, flea bombs, flea dips, cheap flea drops).
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Jan 16, 2014 20:15
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Sherlock has learned "sit" and "look at me". We are working on leash training and "drop-it" but he's not picking it up as quickly as "sit" and "look at me". 
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Jan 16, 2014 20:42
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I've got a question about the "right" dog for our situation. First off, my fiancee works from home and has loads of time for training and exercising. However, we have cats and live in an apartment (it has two floors, but still). We own 2 cats and a few caged reptiles. She really likes huskies and shiba inu, but with the cats and other animals I think that might not end well. She also likes GSDs and things that look like them but I'm not sure if that would work either. We are planning to move to a bigger house in about 2 years though. She'd be happy with a mixed dog but again, worried about the cats getting along with it. Had issues before with a rescue saying the dog was okay with cats but then attacked one immediately. I suggested a few other breeds but she's not keen on toy breeds or any of the more laid back large breeds like Newfoundlands. Is there anything that'd fit our situation/any suggestions or should we wait till we're moved out to the bigger place with more room to work with?
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Jan 16, 2014 21:05
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Well, theoretically any dog can be trained to be good around cats, or at least the cats they live with. I even know of a shiba breeder who socializes her puppies with cats in addition to people and children socialization, and multiple people who have one or more shibas as well as one or more cats. So on that front, if you guys train it from a puppy theoretically you can get whatever. An adult dog might be riskier, since at least some dogs learn to be friends with their cats rather than all cats so even on that was pals with its feline housemates might not take yours well. One of those things that you'll want to be careful about, at least. As for size of the house, from what I understand (I live in California so I haven't been able to own one as it's way too hot most of the year) huskies are the kind of dog that need a good-sized yard, because they are active as can be. Unless your fiancee wants to spend hours of the day walking/running with it, that might not be the best choice for your current situation. Shibas can also be active, but while they may zoom around the house they can handle apartment living much better, and some can be pretty laid back as long as they get a good walk or two a day. They have a reputation for being good apartment dogs. Also, your fiancee has good taste in dogs. Shibas and huskies are awesome. But, yeah. In my opinion at least, in your current situation a shiba inu puppy should be doable. A husky might not work out so well because they need space for exercise in addition to what they get from walks, though again, that's going based off what I've heard. People who don't live in a place with husky-intolerant climates can probably offer more advice here though.
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Jan 16, 2014 21:50
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Pew! Pew! posted:I've got a question about the "right" dog for our situation. Are you mainly interested in young adult/adult dogs or would you be up for a puppy? If your lease would allow it (and you find a group that's interested), you could give fostering a whirl with an organization that cat-tests dogs. One thing to keep in mind about adult dogs, though, is that they're not great generalizers and the cat-safe label is given based on either a history of living with cats or a quick simulated interaction with a dog-savvy cat (ideally both). You may not get a dog that will immediately leave your cats alone, but you should get one that will quickly learn cat boundaries. If your cats don't enforce those boundaries it's up to you to create them, which means that the dog's on a leash around the cats until they reliably ignore them or notice and bring focus back to you even when the cats are tearing rear end around the house. Even with that, I don't like to leave my cat and dogs together unsupervised for any substantial length of time. One of my dogs is buddies with the cat and she likes to nap on him, but she's always up for chasing neighborhood cats outside. I'd look at the German spitz breeds. They have the spitz look without the crazy prey drive and are a whole lot more biddable than the Asian spitzes (or Huskies). Your fiancee doesn't like toy dogs, so Poms are out, but an American Eskimo or Keeshond might be a decent fit. Eskies have grown in popularity recently; If you like this breed, find a responsible breeder. The ones I've seen come through the shelter have been puppy mill dogs that require a lot of work. If you don't mind the glamour-shot looks, all of the Keeshonds I've met have been really sweet dogs.
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Jan 16, 2014 22:23
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@Roland: We're definitely willing to socialize puppies. Shiba were one of my first choices because I heard about them being awesome apartment dogs. The only breeder I found of them was here and it looks alright. I migghht send them a message but I think she might've just fallen for Keeshonds after Lenk's post, haha. @Lenk: I just showed my fiancee Keeshonds and Eskies as she'd never seen or heard of them and she definitely likes them! I think the general "wolfy" look of Keeshonds really appeals to her as well. There's also a surprisingly large number of breeders that are close to SC to sift through. Thanks for the replies! We're gonna hold off a while and possibly foster since there's also a few breed-specific rescues near us looking for fosters and see how that goes, then decide from there.
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Jan 16, 2014 23:14
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a life less posted:I think the heat from the dryer is best for killing them. A wash + dry is probably ideal. Hanging things out in the sun for a day or two is also pretty effective. Obviously not if it's going to rain/snow though.
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Jan 18, 2014 03:59
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http://tinyurl.com/m9lpbum I found this little guy when I stopped to get gas in Beckley WV. He was following two men down the street and one of them turned around and kicked him. I grabbed him and eventually my dad adopted him so I still get to play with him a few times a year. Also, now Beckley WV is on my poo poo list.
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Jan 18, 2014 04:05
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My wife and I recently got our first dog, a 1 year old great pyr. He barks. He barks at everything. He barks at himself barking. We live in the suburbs outside a city, so he barks at every vehicle that passes by and every human who walks in sight or hearing range. He barks at our cats, whom because of this are terrified of him. He barks at the sound of any power tool being activated (I don't blame him for this one, that poo poo is loud). We understood the breed barks, but I think our expectation was a little less than this. What are the best ways to prevent this behavior? My wife and I are both becoming incredibly stressed out by this. In basically every other regard he is great.
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Jan 18, 2014 05:29
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