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kastein posted:Those are my favorite factory jeep wheels, aside from old 80s turbines that only look good on some jeeps. So it would be more of a Urinal Jeep. Wont be completely crap, but enough to piss ya off occasionally 
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Jan 16, 2014 19:58
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I like how the new Toilet Jeep (apparently) has a better place to live and have open heart surgery done than the previous one.
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Jan 16, 2014 22:40
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That's the corner of the shop at work. I just have to make sure none of the fun stuff I do at work is in the shot when taking pictures. Instead of riding like a trampoline of hoopty death, it rode quite nicely just now when I went to pick up 250 pounds of 2x3 1/4" angle iron for fixing the house. In fact it was still sitting a bit above normal XJ ride height. I could get used to this.
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Jan 16, 2014 22:50
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So let me get this straight... Instead of welding a tube through the chassis/ unibody and then installing a bushing and a thru bolt with a nut they used a bolt into a captive nut? What kind of insanity is that?
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Jan 17, 2014 09:55
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Ferremit posted:So let me get this straight... Instead of welding a tube through the chassis/ unibody and then installing a bushing and a thru bolt with a nut they used a bolt into a captive nut? What kind of insanity is that? A captive nut that's then sealed in its own pocket outside of the "frame" rail. Thus making it totally inaccessible without cutting something.
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Jan 17, 2014 13:27
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It's because the XJ chassis has the leaf springs outboarded for more stability and... also is made out of a giant pile of stamped sheetmetal bits, spot and tack welded together. So they take the leaf spring eye pocket and drop an M14 nut into a blister on it from the outside, slap a couple fat MIG tacks on it, then spotweld that whole mess to the outside of the sheetmetal unibody frame rail. Leaving the nut completely inaccessible. I know many people who have had the nut break free and spin forever, or the bolt break off in the nut. Either one, as veeb0rg described, means you get to hack and slash to get at it, then patch everything up after.
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Jan 17, 2014 14:02
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How familiar are you with the AW4 transmission and diagnosing? I have an A340 in my 4Runner and it is having issues. Symptoms are pointing towards solenoids but I want to rule out other things.
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Jan 17, 2014 14:39
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A thread I posted about the AW4 is the third or fourth google result for "AW4."  I don't know the Toyota solenoid/sensor system on the A340 quite as well as I do the AW4, but describe the symptoms. Also, try disconnecting the wiring from it and see if it runs fine. If it has 1st, 2nd, and OD but no torque converter lockup in any of them, that's normal, at least for an AW4 with no electronics connected. That would point towards it being an electrical issue.
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Jan 17, 2014 15:18
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kastein posted:A thread I posted about the AW4 is the third or fourth google result for "AW4." I will have to read that... On days warmer than about -10c and after driving for a somewhat variable time it stops downshifting from third unless the shifter is moved into L. Then it will shift into either 1 or 2 seemingly at random. It does not have lock up in this case. I don't have my multimeter to test the solenoid resistance at the connector, which was going to be my next step. I will try driving around with the connector disconnected. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jan 17, 2014 |
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Jan 17, 2014 16:45
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Since we're asking AW4 questions ... mine is 200k+. It's not showing any signs of damage/wear, but I'd like to formulate a plan, for if/when it does. Is my best bet to buy a junkyard and get it rebuilt? Are there any aftermarket options worth throwing at it while doing so?
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Jan 17, 2014 19:06
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No one is making new torque converters, so check your fluid and catch it early, because if you need one, you're ending up with a low mileage takeout or a reman. If you catch it before you plug it up with bullshit from the blown transmission, you can probably just flush the thing out and reuse it. As far as I know most service parts are still available. People make upgraded clutch discs for them, there's a few shift kits out there, too. That's about all I can think of. They are goddamn bulletproof (I've killed two, but one wasn't even fully dead when I got rid of it, and I thought I had killed my third a few weeks ago but it turned out to just need 1.5 quarts of fluid) and basically have to be severely abused to die. I've heard of them being run for several hours on the highway while full of stream water instead of ATF without apparent damage, and they will withstand being driven with a fluid leak until they literally stop moving due to slipping clutches and zero line pressure at least once, sometimes twice, just fill it back up and keep going. The one that's currently in my XJ has had the following abuse heaped upon it: 1. drive with 4 of 6 cylinders firing for 10-15k miles, foot on the floor, pumping horrible torsional vibrations into the transmission. 2. repeated alternating neutral drops into reverse and drive every ten or twenty seconds for several minutes straight or until burning transmission fluid is smelled. Drive out of the woods with throttle pegged to avoid getting stuck again. 3. continue hammering on it with 4 cylinders operating for several more months. 4. install new motor, continue beatings until morale improves. 5. never, ever, ever change fluid. at all. or even check it. It's at 230k with nasty burnt fluid in it that has probably been in there since 1998. I don't care, it is coming out to be replaced with an AX15 and it won't kill it anyways. 6. drive it for several weeks with it slipping into second gear on the first shift and slamming into 1st from every stop sign and light. Discover that it is 1.5 quarts low on fluid, top off, continue driving. To this day (I've put another 5k miles on it since topping it off) it shifts perfectly every single time and never slips or overheats. If you kill an AW4 you have either horrible luck or are very, very, very abusive. Don't count on it happening. Oh, and you can usually find them for anywhere from $0 to $100 on NAXJA's classifieds. No one wants manuals and they generally don't sell well when people part out a rig because no one really needs one. I'd have no qualms about grabbing a junkyard unit (after checking for debris in the pan - no abnormal debris = good transmission) and slapping it in without doing more than replacing the seals. The A340 in Toyotas is the same basic unit with a few changes and they've been known to stand up to 1000hp in Supras. Some Supra A340 parts will fit in an AW4 as an upgrade, too, just like the people who put 47r and 48r type Chrysler slushbox parts into 44r and 46r trannies to make them live for longer than they otherwise would. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jan 17, 2014 |
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Jan 17, 2014 19:26
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Oh hey, have some wiring harness snuff porn. Backstory: I've been smelling an odd electrical burning smell for several weeks, on and off. Every time, I pull over, check everything, find nothing, and assume it was someone in front of me, since I randomly smell brakes burning and it usually ends up being a truck panic stopping as well. My rear lighting started acting up, as did the interior lighting and the rear speaker soundbar on the ceiling. Alright, something's definitely up. But I couldn't get it to act up while I was actually debugging it, only while driving late at night on days when cops are out doing sobriety checks. I've talked to cops in drat near every town I've driven through on a Friday night in the last two months. Every time, I'd get home and discover that everything was working fine again. Tonight I finally said gently caress this, I'm digging into it and not stopping till I find the cause.   That hole is about 1/2" wide. I have no idea how it EVER worked like that. The wires were burnt way back, too. Connector for the soundbar/dome light:    Cut it all out, cut all wires back till I found clean copper, spliced straight through with adhesive lined heatshrink butt splices (  ) and a good ratchet crimper. Not coming apart again on my watch.All my rear lights work again! Also found out why my trailer wiring doesn't work, the two relay sockets for the factory harness adapter had dropped down inside the rear quarter panel. You know, the one with the giant rust hole at the lowest point, that's constantly full of nasty mud and salty slush. It was all I could do to pry the relays out of the sockets and several of the terminals in the sockets simply turned to dust and fell out when I did. Guess it's a good thing I have a factory wiring harness diagram here, I'll have to head home to get my spare relays and sockets however. Haven't taken pictures of that part yet, will probably edit this post with a few if I bother to take any.
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Jan 18, 2014 02:53
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My A/C worked for several years with sockets like this:  Yes, the second one shows the copper prongs stuck in the wrong side of the connector pair. Guess I get to track down a whole new set of A/C knobs, and the junkyards in San Antonio never have Jeeps. Kastein, any compatible vehicles I can rip this poo poo from?
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Jan 18, 2014 07:47
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Yeah that's a pretty common problem. Don't know where you can get all the knobs but try same-year dodges and chryslers, just pull em out till you find one that looks the same. The connector looks like nothing I have ever seen before. I would have assumed it'd be the same as an XJ, ZJ, WJ, or Dakota/Ram of the same year, but yeah that one is new to me. All the poo poo I fixed works nicely now, it was great to not get pulled over on a friday night for the first time in forever.  Before dry vinyl wrapping  After. Looks kinda like a boa constrictor ate a small dog, doesn't it? kastein fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Jan 18, 2014 |
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Jan 18, 2014 09:04
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kastein posted:Also found out why my trailer wiring doesn't work, the two relay sockets for the factory harness adapter had dropped down inside the rear quarter panel. You know, the one with the giant rust hole at the lowest point, that's constantly full of nasty mud and salty slush. It was all I could do to pry the relays out of the sockets and several of the terminals in the sockets simply turned to dust and fell out when I did. Guess it's a good thing I have a factory wiring harness diagram here, I'll have to head home to get my spare relays and sockets however. Haven't taken pictures of that part yet, will probably edit this post with a few if I bother to take any. The factory trailer wiring adapter uses relays? Interesting. I'd like to see that. I need to replace the aftermarket one in my '95 Cherokee, because it doesn't play well with the LED bulbs I've installed. It was feeding the turn signals back through the brake lights, probably to make the signals and hazards work correctly on the trailer when the brakes were on. I added a diode to the brake lead between the adapter and the the vehicle. That fixed the brake lights flashing with the signals, cut now the hazards don't work on the trailer. That's all that doesn't work, but it irritates me. I was going to see about building my own adapter (using relays, natch) because I don't feel like spending $30 for an adapter that may or may not work. Most of them seem to note one way or another if they can deal with LEDs. Is the OEM trailer adapter in the service manual, and is it a '97+ thing? edit: found it in the manual. Nice, simple circuit that I can build with no problem. It does look like the trailer's brake lights will continue flashing if the hazard lights are on and the brakes applied, though, unless I missed something. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 09:59 on Jan 18, 2014 |
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Jan 18, 2014 09:29
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I'm not sure if you're talking about the actual way it's wired together or just how the bulbs were flashing, but I've seen turn signals flash brake lights when the ground to the turn signals goes bad.
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Jan 18, 2014 09:37
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This is more curiosity than anything, since the vehicle is long, long gone. An old roommate had a 95 or 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0 - I guess that'd be the 42RE. His stepmom killed the original trans around 150k, and my roommate got it with about 250k on it. Drove fine for awhile, then it would upshift just fine all the way to 4th, then drop into 3rd around 50, and refuse to go back into 4th until about 65. No slipping, fluid looked fine. He drove it like that until his girlfriend wrecked it with far north of 300k on it, and he was actively trying to kill it the entire time he had it. Any idea  happened there? I assume it was something electrical, and not actually something inside the trans, since it would shift like clockwork into 4th the moment the speedo tickled 65's ball sack.
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Jan 18, 2014 09:42
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some texas redneck posted:This is more curiosity than anything, since the vehicle is long, long gone. Seems like a bad overdrive controller, most older transmissions would have a range of engagement speeds depending on the throttle position. Like my Blazer would shift into OD right at 43 at light cruise, flooring it would delay that until about 65. Maybe a bad TPS input into the trans controller?
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Jan 18, 2014 09:47
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Opensourcepirate posted:I'm not sure if you're talking about the actual way it's wired together or just how the bulbs were flashing, but I've seen turn signals flash brake lights when the ground to the turn signals goes bad. It was how the adapter was wired. I unplugged that and everything was fine. They were using the brake light bulbs on the truck as a ground source for the hazards so that they would stop flashing when the brake lights were on, I think, since they were doing the conversion with no relays. All passive components, apparently. Wouldn't work with the LEDs, because diodes.
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Jan 18, 2014 10:03
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97+ vs 96- trailer lighting is slightly different, but yes it's in the manual and yes it uses relays - there's a few reasons. One, it makes it so the negligible draw of the relay coils doesn't affect the blink rate of the turn signals, and two, the jeep chassis uses two separate filaments for turn/brake signals while 4-pin and most other trailer light wiring systems use a single bulb on each side for it. So the relay coil is wired between the stop light and turn signal for each side, respectively, which very cleverly creates an XOR (one, and only one of the stop/turn for each side must be on to illuminate the trailer taillight - basically this inverts the turn signal flashing if the brakes are on, like a Ford) logic gate with a single relay. And yes it causes incredibly goofy issues when a ground floats, because some vehicles have turn signal switch assemblies that ground the turn signal flasher wire when not turning the bulb on and +12 feed it when turning the bulb on, so if the ground floats, suddenly when you hit the brakes everything lights up like a christmas tree because it's backfeeding everywhere willy nilly. I had so many bulbs acting up on the back of the jeep that I knew it had to be a floating ground somewhere, I just didn't expect it to involve a severely charred connector. Off to tractor supply for a new trailer light wiring connector (7 prong round) and then the junkyard for some other poo poo I need. e: As for the 42re question - probably a sensor, or possible the governor pressure sensor or solenoid. To understand the 4xre series transmissions, you only need to know that basically they're an old hydraulically operated torqueflite 727, but with horrible curses added to the mechanical elements and a solenoid valve and pressure sensor strapped on instead of a throttle valve cable. Basically what happened was, chrysler engineers said "we have this perfectly good transmission and need to electronically control it. Strap on a sensor so we can tell what the governor pressure is right now, strap on a solenoid valve we can pulsewidth modulate to adjust the pressure. Wham, that hydraulically shifted transmission is now an electronically shifted one!" And then everything exploded because the transmission internals don't handle abuse as well as a tf727, everyone still thought they should put dex/merc in them instead of ATF+4, and no one remembered to adjust the bands. Oh and the solenoid and sensor are known for failing. Presto, you have millions of flaky failing transmissions. The solenoid and sensor both get wired directly to the PCM on a Chrysler/Dodge, and on 4cyl Jeeps other than 87-90 automatic XJs/MJs and 6cyl automatics other than XJs/MJs/93.0 ZJs. Those vehicles are awesome and got AW4s/A340s with a separate TCU that manages their functions directly. kastein fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Jan 18, 2014 |
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Jan 18, 2014 14:41
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Turns out that fuse #20 (the one that actually powers the trailer lights, the relays just switch that power to them) was also burned out. So the damages were: rear right taillight harness completely smoked, dome light/speaker bar harness completely smoked, trailer connector was a pile of corrosion, relays for trailer harness were completely trashed, and the fuse was blown. It now works perfectly. Since I had the trailer rented already (to pick up my buddy Jack's motorcycle in CT tomorrow) I said the hell with it and picked up my new-to-me welder from a friend. $100 got me a massive old AC/DC 200 amp stick welder that also supports TIG welding with HF start, a pedal, torch wand, and a random old gas bottle regulator. The unit has ports for cooling water. I need to look up what the hell I just bought and figure out if I can find a service manual for it - I jumped on it at this price because I figured worst case I could rip the TIG goodies off of it (HF start electronics and torch + cooling water system) and strap it onto my snapon YA212 which also does TIG, but only scratchstart and has no torch.
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Jan 18, 2014 23:22
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So you decided against the airlift springs huh? Would have been a lot easier, but at least you did it the right way instead of taking the easy way out like me
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Jan 18, 2014 23:54
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Yeah, it looked like it was going to cost more or around the same amount and I'd rather fix it right. It towed great today with the new springs and shocks. Can't wait till they break in a bit and give a less jarring ride though, a stiff ride is fine in the comanche since it's the offroad toy but I'm hoping the DD ends up riding more like it did when it left the factory. The OEM springs were exactly the same arch height as the replacements (which are the 1.75" lift UpCountry OEM equivalents) when lying on the floor, so the fact that they make it sit 5-6" higher in the back tells me that the old springs were simply completely trashed and re-arching them wouldn't have done a drat thing. An add-a-leaf/helper spring or "bastard pack" probably would have been a stopgap at best, as well.
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Jan 19, 2014 00:03
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I never really understood the bastard pack, if you're gonna go through all that trouble you might as well just put new springs on it, especially if you had to hack away at the frame to get the loving things off.
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Jan 19, 2014 00:59
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The beauty of an add a leaf or a bastard pack is that you can put together without ever removing the main leaf from the jeep - you just stack the leafs up while it's still attached. I was seriously thinking about doing that and then realized I'd just be stacking up a pile of spanked stock leafs to fix my problem with spanked stock leafs. gently caress that.
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Jan 19, 2014 01:03
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Ah, ok. But still that's seems like a lot of work to do just what you said, add a bunch of hosed leafs on top of an already hosed leaf
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Jan 19, 2014 01:06
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Post photos of your welder or it didn't happen, I gotta see this beast. 
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Jan 19, 2014 01:47
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Do you guys get the 7 pin flat connectors in the US? I had a 7 pin round on the back of my rear bar and it kept getting the poo poo beaten out of it offroad, so I went for a 7 pin flat and an adaptor to go back to round when needed and it hasnt been hit since.
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Jan 19, 2014 01:50
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It's fuckin' dark out or I would take pictures. Maybe tomorrow. I don't know about 7 pin flat, the normal ones here are 4 pin flat (these suck), 7 pin round (6 blades around a round center pin), and some number of round pins in a circle. The OEM hitch used a 7 pin round so I replaced with the same one, figure it'll last another decade no problem, at which point this turd hopefully won't be my problem anymore. e: it is a Eutec-Arc model 201 Eutectic Magna-Trans. They sure didn't make that easy to google for manuals... kastein fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jan 19, 2014 |
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Jan 19, 2014 02:57
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Theres 3 different ones in use in Aus- 7 pin flat  )7 pin Large round  And 7 pin small round, which is just a 7 pin large with smaller connectors in a tighter arrangement  The 7 pin flats awesome because its so compact and easy to tuck up out of the way, but 7 pin round is pretty much the norm country wide.
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Jan 19, 2014 03:28
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I think the only one we have in common is the small 7 pin round. The one I have is this: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hopkinstrade%3B-connector-vehicle-end-7-pole Tomorrow it's leaf spring breakin time - towing a trailer 150 miles, loading up a motorcycle and some other stuff and towing it back. I get to pretend to be a trucker again. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jan 19, 2014 |
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Jan 19, 2014 04:30
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Welder pics as requested  I can't find any sort of info on it, anywhere, no matter what I search for. This thing is the least google-able lump of iron and copper I have ever purchased. E: the md301fed was apparently common in government shops, they are everywhere as surplus, I am guessing mine is similar since it is an md201. I bet the "fed" part of that model number is because the federal government asked for a bid for ten million 300 amp welders built to their specs. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jan 19, 2014 |
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Jan 19, 2014 16:02
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HELL YES. Waiting in anticipation for posts of metal fused to other metal.
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Jan 19, 2014 19:24
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Fucknag posted:Seems like a bad overdrive controller, most older transmissions would have a range of engagement speeds depending on the throttle position. Like my Blazer would shift into OD right at 43 at light cruise, flooring it would delay that until about 65. Maybe a bad TPS input into the trans controller? Not entirely sure. It would downshift just fine if you laid into it, and upshifting seemed appropriate for the speed + throttle input. It literally shifted like it was brand new until you hit 50 and it decided "oh hey, I'm gonna drop into 3rd". Once you got going fast enough for it to upshift again, it drove perfectly (until you slowed down below 65; it'd drop into 3rd again at that point, then upshift into 4th once you slowed below 50). That thing was a clusterfuck on the best of days though; the only usable thing on the cluster was the speedometer (every warning light lit, every gauge doing something it shouldn't have been doing), even the radio went wonky and started scanning for stations nonstop whenever it was running. Worked fine if the engine was off. 
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Jan 24, 2014 10:09
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some texas redneck posted:Not entirely sure. It would downshift just fine if you laid into it, and upshifting seemed appropriate for the speed + throttle input. It literally shifted like it was brand new until you hit 50 and it decided "oh hey, I'm gonna drop into 3rd". Once you got going fast enough for it to upshift again, it drove perfectly (until you slowed down below 65; it'd drop into 3rd again at that point, then upshift into 4th once you slowed below 50). These are the things I thought of as I read this post: Hmmm, probably bad grounding Yeah, bad grounding Definitely bad grounding just how many of the ground wires have come loose? are there any ground wires left? THIS HAS TO BE BAD GROUNDS JESUS CHRIST  I would almost stake my life on it. That is a severe case of grounding issues.
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Jan 24, 2014 12:42
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I need to either put multiple race style fuel pickups in the tank on the XJ or keep at least a half a tank in it, it seems. I'm starving for fuel on exit ramp corners with a third of a tank  Who says you can't make a crapcan XJ go fast?
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Jan 25, 2014 04:58
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Hah, that welder looks like it weighs a ton. Did it come with consumables and everything you need too? Do you already know how to TIG or is this your first go?
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Jan 25, 2014 07:05
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I dont have anything yet. Need to get a bunch of stuff... but probably just check it out and make sure it works first. It weighs probably 300lbs, I decided to unload it from my friend's pickup into the trailer I brought myself and it went better than expected. I don't know how to tig weld... yet. So yesterday I went to the junkyard and got a RARE part to put on the XJ. Super, super rare. Becausee the plastic hose barbs break off them the second they leave the factory. I rarely see them intact. Cherokee owners are now chuckling... What I am saying is that I got a replacement rear wiper motor bezel with its washer fluid passthrough barbs intact. There were four donors at the yard, half were already broken and I broke another trying to take the hose off it very gently. Got lucky on the last one though. Also, I replaced my drivers door dome light plunger switch, which had developed a severe case of lucasitis. It went from having two settings (on, off) to three (off, flicker, dim) to four (off, flicker, dim, dim flicker) and then stopped working entirely. Quite nice to have working lights again. No major work, just more incremental repairs to the boring DD. Today I need to get ahold of a buddy in CT and find out if he still has a motor for sandbagger. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 16:22
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kastein posted:What I am saying is that I got a replacement rear wiper motor bezel with its washer fluid passthrough barbs intact. There were four donors at the yard, half were already broken and I broke another trying to take the hose off it very gently. Got lucky on the last one though. You gonna dip the barbs in epoxy to get some strength? I did that to my Miata dipstick, gave it four treatments and it simply refuses to break, unlike the stock part that snaps if you brake hard.
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Jan 26, 2014 16:50
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I already installed it, so probably not. I kept the old one, if the new one breaks I will through-bore the old one and press in a small piece of stainless tubing from a hobby shop.
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Jan 26, 2014 17:04
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