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Welp, time for my yearly "Guys I'm totally going to paint my Deathguard this time I promise I won't get distracted and forget like the last 3 years" post in this thread. Is The Duplicolor Sandable Automotive Primer still the best white primer, or is this one that I saw mentioned many, many pages back any good: http://www.michaels.com/Liquitex%C2%AE-Spray-Paint-Titanium-White/fa1683,default,pd.html
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Jan 20, 2014 23:13
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I'm about to paint a pureblood warpwolf and I want his skin to look "ghostly". Based on what I have, I was going to go with reaper MSP misty grey, then a wash of thinned down citadel teclis blue and a highlight of Vallejo model color off white. Just writing it out here I already feel like its not going to work how I think it will. I guess I'm going to need to buy some more paint but what? Basically, I think light grey, light blue wash then off white highlight but I'm just guessing based on other paint jobs I've seen. I feel like I'm going to need a glaze...
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Jan 21, 2014 04:02
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Hobby time! So with work and school I have had precious little time to work on my Space Wolves , however today I able to base all of my models and work more on Njal.  (the ear fell off when someone accidentally knocked Njal out my hands)   
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Jan 21, 2014 07:14
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Post 9-11 User posted:Bavius: the finished models turned out gorgeous. The models didn't look "finished" without bases, and the subdued colors used on your finished bases make the tones on your minis pop. Thank you very much. I really enjoyed painting them and I'm glad they turned out okay. Also got a kick out of that article, nothing like a gullible government to ruin things.
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Jan 21, 2014 09:13
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I am starting to line up some of the larger bones minis to paint and have decided I want to learn how to better use my airbrush for the minis. Previously I have only really used it for terrain, space tables and priming. For those of you that use an airbrush, is there anything you like to use it for in particular aside from priming and basecoats, particularly on large models? I am definitely going to be trying out some airbrushing on Kaladrax, but may experiment with a couple things on some of the giants as well if it seems worthwhile for either the end result or just to learn.
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Jan 21, 2014 15:46
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nesbit37 posted:I am starting to line up some of the larger bones minis to paint and have decided I want to learn how to better use my airbrush for the minis. Previously I have only really used it for terrain, space tables and priming. For those of you that use an airbrush, is there anything you like to use it for in particular aside from priming and basecoats, particularly on large models? I am definitely going to be trying out some airbrushing on Kaladrax, but may experiment with a couple things on some of the giants as well if it seems worthwhile for either the end result or just to learn. Watch all these videos, profit thereby: Buypainted channel on YouTube
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Jan 22, 2014 01:17
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nesbit37 posted:I am starting to line up some of the larger bones minis to paint and have decided I want to learn how to better use my airbrush for the minis. Previously I have only really used it for terrain, space tables and priming. For those of you that use an airbrush, is there anything you like to use it for in particular aside from priming and basecoats, particularly on large models? I am definitely going to be trying out some airbrushing on Kaladrax, but may experiment with a couple things on some of the giants as well if it seems worthwhile for either the end result or just to learn. Don't start on Kaladrax imo. Start on a smaller large model that you'll be able to finish in a decent amount of time. I'm painting Kaladrax for spaceinvader atm and although it's fun to paint, I feel like it will never end and even sat painting for a few hours every day I feel like I'm getting no where. Otherwise get yourself some low tack sticky tape and blu tak and use your airbrush to paint everything.
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Jan 22, 2014 03:51
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Leperflesh posted:Watch all these videos, profit thereby: Buypainted channel on YouTube He glues right over his paint.  how does that even work? 
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Jan 22, 2014 04:47
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Doctor Zero posted:He glues right over his paint. DO NOT QUESTION THE ALL POWERFUL BUYPAINTED! In all seriousness it's superglue and I do that all the time. It's a LOT easier to paint models in separate pieces; especially if you do airbrush work, and if you don't apply a ridiculous amount a.k.a. too much drat glue and keep it in an open area when it dries the chance of getting that white powder stuff is pretty minimal. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 05:02
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On the other hand I feel like most of Buypainted's stuff is for display rather than heavy tabletop use. I think it's easy and harmless to just cover the area where pieces will be glued, with some blue painter's tape or some bluetac/putty, and then peel it off to expose bare plastic when you're ready to glue it.
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Jan 22, 2014 06:07
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Doctor Zero posted:He glues right over his paint. Plastic glue will melt right through most paints and the plastic underneath to make its bond. I do it all the time too.
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Jan 22, 2014 07:12
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I'm doing a semi-coherent blog series on my adventures with Kaladrax. Hopefully it will include lots of useful information on the Bones material and how to deal with huge models like that. http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/
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Jan 22, 2014 09:46
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Lethemonster, your blog is rad as hell. Thanks for sharing it. Fake edit: trying something new with this spiny thing and my Minotaur models, uploaded from my phone. Threw dull coat on them so my fan was on killing the fumes (mute it). Spinning Minotaurs
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Jan 22, 2014 11:28
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Lethemonster thats some good prep work. Having never worked with bones before is that the normal level of fixing required or is this model just terrible?
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Jan 22, 2014 13:42
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serious gaylord posted:Lethemonster thats some good prep work. Having never worked with bones before is that the normal level of fixing required or is this model just terrible? This is the only Bones I've played with so far. I think it's just a case of the model being so big and complicated. It's gorgeous when put together and really good fun to paint, just arduous to get to that stage. If I was doing the equivalent amount of plastic in normal sized miniatures I would have done the same amount of work - much more, really - but I'd have a collection of 'finished' prepared minis by now, and a number to go. The only significant issue unique to this model was the fact that there were four very obvious mold lines running down each section of tail, and the tail is massive. I don't even know how you get four mold lines but they managed it! Thankfully removing mold lines from the material I find to be easier and nicer than doing so on plastic or metal models. You need to do it slightly differently, but it's super simple and quick to get down to a smooth surface.
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Jan 22, 2014 14:10
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I need advice. I would very much like to try to recreate something like this image:  My FLGS has this mini:  I think it'd make for a good base for it, but I'm not sure the best way to go about altering it. Should I use sandpaper on the fur, or something chemical like acetone? Would it be best to get clay to make the tail, or is there another mini that has a snakelike/dinosaurlike tail I could cut off? Any good ways to make the werewolf's claws longer?
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Jan 22, 2014 14:28
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Lethemonster posted:This is the only Bones I've played with so far. I think it's just a case of the model being so big and complicated. It's gorgeous when put together and really good fun to paint, just arduous to get to that stage. What do you use to get the mold lines off? I've found these work a lot better than metal files.
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Jan 22, 2014 14:51
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JackMann posted:What do you use to get the mold lines off? I've found these work a lot better than metal files. Goddamn, I really wish I had known about these before. I've always used a small metal file that ended up taking off a bit of detail or flattening rounded areas.
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Jan 22, 2014 16:18
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Bavius posted:Lethemonster, your blog is rad as hell. Thanks for sharing it. That is a way better way to show off a group of models than the 360' view thing. It shows how they interact with each other on the table top from different viewpoints. Also, great idea putting a water transfer on the back of the banner, I never considered it before. Iunnrais posted:I need advice. I would very much like to try to recreate something like this image: To be honest, I don't see much of a match between the two models at all other than the basic bone structure. It would be easier to make an armature from scratch, since much of the wolf model would need to be trimmed off or sanded away. You could try looking through the Lizardmen model line of Warhammer Fantasy.
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Jan 22, 2014 16:36
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Iunnrais posted:I need advice. I would very much like to try to recreate something like this image: Try this instead: http://www.infinitythegame.com/infinity/en/2011/miniatures/the-anathematics/
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Jan 22, 2014 17:53
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My ancient pot of Skull White is about to finally give up the ghost. I usually stay away from pure white and use off-whites, but I should have a pot of white around. Who makes the best white? GW Ceramite? P3 Morrow? VGC Dead? Something else?
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Jan 22, 2014 18:28
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JoshTheStampede posted:My ancient pot of Skull White is about to finally give up the ghost. I usually stay away from pure white and use off-whites, but I should have a pot of white around. Who makes the best white? GW Ceramite? P3 Morrow? VGC Dead? Something else? I love GW Ceramic White, unfortunately can't comment on the others. Just stay away from White Scars and Pallid Wych Flesh. Chalky crap.
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Jan 22, 2014 18:39
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I have no complaints with Reaper's Pure White, but I haven't tried anything else.
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Jan 22, 2014 18:47
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JoshTheStampede posted:My ancient pot of Skull White is about to finally give up the ghost. I usually stay away from pure white and use off-whites, but I should have a pot of white around. Who makes the best white? GW Ceramite? P3 Morrow? VGC Dead? Something else? Vallejo model air white.
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Jan 22, 2014 18:49
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Lethemonster posted:I'm doing a semi-coherent blog series on my adventures with Kaladrax. Hopefully it will include lots of useful information on the Bones material and how to deal with huge models like that. Thanks Lethemonster, you rule! (minor niggle: thespaceinvader, all one word, no caps, please =) ) You're doing so much more than I would have done, I'm astonished and extremely grateful.
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Jan 22, 2014 20:02
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Thanks for the links and I am definitely interested in seeing how Kaladrax goes for you. Mold line cleaning on bones has been a pain so far without taking of too much so that will be good to hear as well. I chickened out on the airbrush last night and started on the fire giant queen with a regular brush instead. When I finish her today (hooray for snow closings!) I am hoping to try out the airbrush on one of the other fire giants.
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Jan 22, 2014 20:06
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Vulich the Subtle posted:Try this instead: Hrm. But I'd wonder if it'd really be easier to mold biological features (like abs) onto a robot looking thing than to take fur off of a werewolf. And I still need a tail. (the head I can likely get from a skeleton or similar and add horns)
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Jan 22, 2014 20:29
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I can say with certainty that Liquitex Matte Varnish sprayed through an airbrush is the new best matte varnish of all time. It dries instantly so there's no chance of over spraying and clouding up, it's way cheaper than Testors Dullcote and there's no horrible lingering toxic fumes.
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Jan 22, 2014 20:42
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Really if you head swap a scary horned skull into an Alien Xenomorph body you'd be all set. And there's no shortage of either component in miniatures gaming.
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Jan 22, 2014 21:00
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How do you go about changing the color when you use the Citadel Agrellan Earth? Do you mix AE with a different color first and paint that on, or paint on AE first and paint over that with what you want?
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Jan 22, 2014 21:16
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Oh, huh. That's actually a good question. I'd think that painting over it would be a problem with a brush, because you'd risk removing the flakes. It might be do-able with an airbrush but at the risk of obscuring the detail of smaller cracks. I'd say give a go with mixing in a colour on a small patch so you don't go accidentally ruining your paint.
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Jan 22, 2014 21:58
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Pacheeco posted:I can say with certainty that Liquitex Matte Varnish sprayed through an airbrush is the new best matte varnish of all time. It dries instantly so there's no chance of over spraying and clouding up, it's way cheaper than Testors Dullcote and there's no horrible lingering toxic fumes. I've had a lot of trouble with minor but noticeable clouding, but I think I may be staying too far away and drying it before it hits the model. When you spray it do you see a wet layer on the model before it dries?
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Jan 22, 2014 22:05
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JoshTheStampede posted:I've had a lot of trouble with minor but noticeable clouding, but I think I may be staying too far away and drying it before it hits the model. When you spray it do you see a wet layer on the model before it dries? Not in any noticeable way that made me go "I need to let this sit and dry". I spray my varnish pretty close, probably between 4-6 inches and the Liquitex Matte was drying pretty much the instant it hit the model. I could actually watch it dry on the model it happened so fast. I use a Badger 100 with a .75mm needle and about 30 PSI to spray varnish. Matte varnish, I've learned, doesn't need a heavy or even medium coat to do it's job. A single quick, light pass seems to do the trick 95% of the time. If your matte varnish is clouding up that (probably) means it's pooling which means you're spraying too much varnish. If it becomes all gross and white and chalky that usually means it's drying in the air before it hits the model or it's having a bad humidity reaction. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 22:34
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moths posted:Really if you head swap a scary horned skull into an Alien Xenomorph body you'd be all set. And there's no shortage of either component in miniatures gaming. A google search is not showing me who still makes xenomorph minis besides Horrorclix, which seems sub-ideal. I'm finding a number of mini makers that USED to make xenomorphs prior to a cease and desist...
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Jan 22, 2014 22:41
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Pacheeco posted:Not in any noticeable way that made me go "I need to let this sit and dry". I spray my varnish pretty close, probably between 4-6 inches and the Liquitex Matte was drying pretty much the instant it hit the model. I could actually watch it dry on the model it happened so fast. I use a Badger 100 with a .75mm needle and about 30 PSI to spray varnish. Matte varnish, I've learned, doesn't need a heavy or even medium coat to do it's job. A single quick, light pass seems to do the trick 95% of the time. If your matte varnish is clouding up that (probably) means it's pooling which means you're spraying too much varnish. If it becomes all gross and white and chalky that usually means it's drying in the air before it hits the model or it's having a bad humidity reaction. The issues I've had with airbrushing the Liquitex aren't so bad that I would really call them frosted or cloudy, just a slight washing out of colors and maybe minute chalkiness. Next time I'll err on the side of too heavy than too light and see if that fixes it or ruins it in a new and exciting way 
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Jan 22, 2014 23:19
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JoshTheStampede posted:The issues I've had with airbrushing the Liquitex aren't so bad that I would really call them frosted or cloudy, just a slight washing out of colors and maybe minute chalkiness. Next time I'll err on the side of too heavy than too light and see if that fixes it or ruins it in a new and exciting way Matte varnish is always going to mute the color very slightly; It's more pronounced if you are putting matte varnish on gloss varnish because gloss makes everything contrast and pop more. Under normal operating conditions things shouldn't get chalky; that's a sign something has gone wrong: the varnish is drying in the air, there's humidity problems or the gloss varnish (if you Gloss then Matte) isn't completely dry and cured. Check out http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/liquidtex-matte-varnish.html, there's some information on Liquitex Matte and some pictures of "correct" and "incorrect" matte varnish finishes.
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Jan 22, 2014 23:34
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Yeah it looks fine when I brush it on so it's definitely a problem with the spraying, not the varnish itself.
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Jan 22, 2014 23:55
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Speaking of brush-on matte varnish, I've some Daler-Rowney and I've no idea how much or how long I need to shake it. After about 2 minutes it looks like the white substance has mixed with the liquid, but there's always a bit left on the bottom of the jar.
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Jan 23, 2014 00:00
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Flash kills everything but I am excited to finally paint something after several months that wasn't Dwarven Forge or terrain and I didn't want to spend the time to set up a lightbox. I have always really liked this model and I like it even more now that I have finally painted it.
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Jan 23, 2014 01:41
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JoshTheStampede posted:My ancient pot of Skull White is about to finally give up the ghost. I usually stay away from pure white and use off-whites, but I should have a pot of white around. Who makes the best white? GW Ceramite? P3 Morrow? VGC Dead? Something else? GW Ceramite White is awesome when you paint it on, but gently caress does it dry out in the pot fast. Had it less than 4 months and it's already a stodgy sludge that needs watering.
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Jan 23, 2014 02:35
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