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JerryLee posted:Obviously it's a matter of style/interpretation but I don't think of melta or flamers as casting that much light, unless you're modeling the beam/fire shooting out of the gun. In my mind the holes and slots are mostly for ventilation around the interior barrel, and wouldn't radiate light the way, say, plasma coils or power cores do. Well, I planned on having the ports glow as if the weapon were a split second from firing, but I couldn't figure out how that would actually look, and I couldn't find an example on google anywhere of someone else doing it. I then thought of doing a similar effect on the mouth hole in his fist, treating it like a flamer, but I barely know how to do flames at all, and if I wanted to do that I shouldn't have glued the two fist halves into place first. Lessons learned I guess.
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Jan 25, 2014 20:39
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Dr. Lenin posted:I was going through my bitzbox and found some Cadian zombies I started on like 6 years ago: They are actually in the latest version of the CSM codex. Not terribly useful, but still.
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Jan 25, 2014 21:20
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What would be a good source for generic DND style minis? I have a few Hirst Arts molds that I've made some stuff with and want some minis for friends to use when we play. Bones seems like a decent option but there are so many individual models and very few sets available.
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Jan 25, 2014 22:12
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Crain posted:What would be a good source for generic DND style minis? I have a few Hirst Arts molds that I've made some stuff with and want some minis for friends to use when we play. Bones seems like a decent option but there are so many individual models and very few sets available. Dungeon Command or the minis board games by WotC. Or Bones.
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Jan 25, 2014 22:46
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Crain posted:What would be a good source for generic DND style minis? I have a few Hirst Arts molds that I've made some stuff with and want some minis for friends to use when we play. Bones seems like a decent option but there are so many individual models and very few sets available. Bones is perfect for what you want. Not sure what you mean by "sets" though. They have goblins, kobolds, orcs, etc. you could also try picking up old GW orcs on eBay cheap but it won't help for gnolls and the like.
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Jan 25, 2014 22:51
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Wargames Factory does acceptable sets of Orcs and Skeletons.
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Jan 25, 2014 23:25
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Cross Post from OATHES OATH COMPLETEIt looks like the saga of awful priming didn't damage the model too badly. I attempted the Jurnal with glowy eyes, multi-melta barrels and back vents, but I didn't really know what I was doing and had to quit after several attempts before I did any more damage. Painting red all over the skin was a pain, but not nearly as bad as trying to create convincing light sources and getting the white plating decent.    
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Jan 26, 2014 00:18
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It looks like Christmas came about a month late for your Hellbrute  That's a beautiful white though.
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Jan 26, 2014 00:20
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I have to say, while it's awesomely painted, a gold trim would have looked baller on that.
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Jan 26, 2014 00:23
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I'm always happen to see less black/gold on Chaos.
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Jan 26, 2014 00:29
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Well, it was supposed to go with my not-deathguard Deathguard, and I needed a color for the fleshy bits. I also had Khornate terminators and cultists, so red as a unifying color made sense!  The Christmas theme didn't hit me until after I had painted a few of the troopers. I've always been bad at color schemes, but I've painted enough for the oath thread that I'll just follow through with it and know better for whatever army I work on next. I do still have some Dark Vengeance chosen models I could do a Red/White/Gold theme on, since I was already taking a skittles approach.
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Jan 26, 2014 00:58
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To be fair, I wasn't thinking christmas until it was posted, and you've definitely got the raw, bloody flesh look down well. I'm pretty sure a group shot would look great in that scheme.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:23
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ijyt posted:To be fair, I wasn't thinking christmas until it was posted, and you've definitely got the raw, bloody flesh look down well. I'm pretty sure a group shot would look great in that scheme.   From the oath thread. You can see some of the not-deathguard in the middle row.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:56
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Yeah, definitely look way better in a group, because every part gives that unity. The death guard look like death guard but fleshier, which ties it in with the Khorne. Khorne flakes and milk. Also holy poo poo those 2nd Ed bases I love them.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:07
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The best part of your models is the use of smurf marine heads. But honestly, I really do love the fleshier colouring you used.
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Jan 26, 2014 03:03
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Bachtere posted:Make sure you are enjoying what you are painting. If it is becoming tedious, try something different, switch up techniques, try different colors. Early on when I was first starting, I basically burned myself out because I was painting an O&G army and it was the most tedious, pain in the rear end thing I'd ever done. I finished a Black Orc unit which consumed an entire month of my free time and didn't even want to look at a brush. What model is this? It looks awesome.
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Jan 26, 2014 03:09
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Harapan, Elephant Warrior from Reaper. It's a special edition figure, proceeds of it's sale went towards Tsunami relief back in 2005, I was lucky enough to get it in some random lot I bought on eBay.
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Jan 26, 2014 04:41
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Holy sheeeet, painting beads in dreadlocked hair at 28mm is hard.
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Jan 26, 2014 14:35
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Well after finishing some Ultramarine Sternguard last year I promised myself I was done with marines.....until I realised how many spare parts/odds & ends I had so put together a company champion (sword still to be painted) and another tactical squad. Then realising if I have a champion of a company I may as well finish the company. And a land raider.   Just 2 speeders, 4 bikes, 1 marine with a multi-melta, a banner bearer, and 5 rhinos to go. I'll be scrubbing poorly painted ebay stuff I think.
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Jan 26, 2014 16:34
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Finished another combat squad, finishing the second Tactical Squad:     The whole squad:  And a group shot of everything so far:  They come out to about 900 points as is, a little more if I deck out the second captain with more than just the relic bolter.
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Jan 26, 2014 20:24
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Dark elf Dreadlord on black dragon (converted from an old high elf special character).    I'd like to call him finished, but I only have one shade of purple on the skin. I'm hesitant to layer up on it as purple can be really blotchy and transitions are pretty tough. Other than that, if anyone has suggestions on something cool to do with the wings I'd love to hear it.
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Jan 26, 2014 20:48
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SRM, I want to take up a collection of one-pose 2e box set marines to mail you. Those are beautiful. I've been working on more Kings of War undead. The oath thread is fantastic, and it was a great kick to get me back into a hobby I enjoy. I'd been putting off a lot of painting projects because I never expected to have time to do them. And now I'm two (maybe three) units into the undead army I've wanted since junior high.  These aren't the best figures, but oh how I love their goony dumb skull faces!
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Jan 26, 2014 22:41
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I appreciate the offer, but I've probably got something close to half a company of "I love my bolter" Marines just hanging out in sundry places in my apartment! Those undead are looking good, even with their silly dogface skulls.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:52
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OB_Juan and I started a table today.  2 2'x'4 piecs of 1/2" MDF, gray asphalt felt folded over and clipped. Breaks down really easily.
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Jan 27, 2014 01:15
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Here, have an IG autocannon team.  Not sure what I'll end up using to base them, though it'll probably be the same as one of the platoons I've already got done to keep it thematically similar (3 infantry squads and a heavy weapons squad per platoon, like the US Army does)
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Jan 27, 2014 05:09
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. I posted these guys a number of months ago:  Anyways I'm about done converting them (about 20hrs of work making them look like cool legion vindicators). They look baller, but I wanted to comment on the quality. The company that makes them is puppetswar.eu. It's taken me a lot of work cleaning up the resin kits and merging them with the rhino chassis. If you look at those pictures you can see MASSIVE loving GAPS between the two parts. The parts themselves are of pretty good quality, but its worse than forgeworld when it comes to how well they mate together. I love the kit and think its grimdark as hell, but its a ton of work considering I paid about 30USD for each one.
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Jan 27, 2014 06:12
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SRM posted:Finished another combat squad, finishing the second Tactical Squad: I loving love your 2e style smurfs. One nitpick though: for the full 2e effect, they need squad markings on the right shoulderpads, and ~hazard stripes~ in random places.
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Jan 27, 2014 07:52
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Silhouette posted:I loving love your 2e style smurfs. One nitpick though: for the full 2e effect, they need squad markings on the right shoulderpads, and ~hazard stripes~ in random places. 
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Jan 27, 2014 08:33
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I really want to see some Noise Marines done up in leopard print and zebra stripes now...
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Jan 27, 2014 13:49
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Blend blend blend. Glaze glaze glaze. 
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Jan 27, 2014 15:40
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Lethemonster posted:Blend blend blend. Glaze glaze glaze. This is really really good and I hope its going to be the subject of a blog post. A very good example of multiple thin glazes giving a brilliant effect and how taking your time is very rewarding.
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Jan 27, 2014 16:07
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serious gaylord posted:This is really really good and I hope its going to be the subject of a blog post. A very good example of multiple thin glazes giving a brilliant effect and how taking your time is very rewarding. I painted up the giant Space Marine statue and did the shield in the same colours as an example, with both photos and video. I love procrastinating from exams. Edit: When I'm trying to glaze things I just use paint thinned with water, but it's thin enough that it dries when I blow on it. Then I just make sure I don't apply enough to form droplets on the surface, and keep a damp brush in my hand to sweep off any excess before it can dry. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 16:38
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That is incredible - I took a seminar from Justin McCoy at Nova last year where he explained and showed the group how to paint using thin glazes, and have tried on and off to replicate it with horrifying lack of success. I end up with paint that is considerably too thin, I think, and flows into the cracks of the model. Really nice job on that face.
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Jan 27, 2014 16:47
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It can't really be too thin, if it's flowing into cracks too much it means you have too much on the brush, not that it's too thin.
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Jan 27, 2014 16:48
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You want glaze medium, it realy helps with thinning the paint without getting the wash effect of flowing everywhere you don't want it.
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Jan 27, 2014 16:58
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Reposting from the Reaper thread. Finished the Undead Giant from the bones set. Bit messy but I was trying for speed more than anything.  Need to tidy up the base rim and maybe touch up a couple of details but whatever~ Also decided that Typhus Corrosion is one of the best things Citadel has put out in quite a while.
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Jan 27, 2014 17:06
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Is there an alternative to GW's texture paints? Something I can mix up in larger quantities?
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Jan 27, 2014 17:25
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Deviant posted:Is there an alternative to GW's texture paints? Something I can mix up in larger quantities? What texture do you want and how much do you want?
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Jan 27, 2014 17:27
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Lethemonster posted:What texture do you want and how much do you want? Something gritty, that I can paint around the edges of where I attach a building to a piece of foamboard or plasticard, to help the building 'blend in' to its base.  I want to put this 'missile base' piece onto some foamboard to stabilize it for example, but I'd like to paint the foamboard a dark gray and texture the edges of the buildings to help it look like a cohesive piece instead of just a building glued to a board.
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Jan 27, 2014 17:32
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Go to Home Depot or similar, and buy a small tub of stucco repair. It's already got a gritty texture, it'll only cost a handful of dollars, and it'll be enough to do all your terrain. Obviously it's not painted, so you'll have to actually paint it when it's done, but you don't want to be trying to do a whole table of terrain using tiny little ruinously expensive super-high-pigment miniature model paints. this stuff  e. Oh yeah, you can dilute it with water if it's too thick, and just wet your tools for spreading it etc. It dries reasonably quickly, is slightly flexible but not problematically-so, and it has a texture that works for dirt or sand at 28mm scale. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 17:50
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