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Kernel posted:How harsh is the suspension supposed to be on a 690 SMC? It seems like every time I take it on a bumpy road I'm in pain. Is this just something I deal with? Is it worth figuring out how to dick about with the suspension settings? I did notice I forgot to bleed the forks for a while which may have exacerbated the problem but I do remember it being fairly harsh even after bleeding the forks. It's pretty harsh stock. Im considering a revolve and respring to soften it up.
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Jan 21, 2014 16:32
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My suspension on my Husky sm610 is way to soft for my 250+ pound rear end, but I keep it that way for commuting since I'm not wrecking twisties or at the track. I tighten it when I go race, or if I'm taking a trip to Deals Gap or something. All I do when riding to school or work are wheelies and stop at red lights anyway.
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Jan 21, 2014 18:05
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How do you adjust it on a DRZ? I'm 190lbs-ish so I could do beefing it up a little.
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Jan 21, 2014 19:41
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Do you have the operators or service manual? It explains it in there. Its all just turning screws at the end of the day, but knowing which way you're going is the important part. Also, periodically bleeding the air out of the forks via the air bleed screws helps as well.
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Jan 21, 2014 20:22
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Bazacko posted:I got to ride one of my favorite supermoto spots yesterday: Man, with every sumo video I see, I lean closer and closer towards getting one instead of an SV or something for my next bike...
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Jan 21, 2014 21:16
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M42 posted:Man, with every sumo video I see, I lean closer and closer towards getting one instead of an SV or something for my next bike... YUSSSS. WR250X that sumbitch! Either that or DangeR-Z, but those have carbs and are made of dinosaur bones. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 21:22
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This is for sale near me. http://www.donedeal.ie/motorbikes-for-sale/honda-cr500/6201598 
echomadman fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 02:07
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echomadman posted:This is for sale near me. To bad that is in Europeland or I would actually buy it! I'm in the market for an old 500cc smoker. Also, for the guy considering a sumo instead of an SV, I say find someone with one and take it around the block (if they will let you) and if you aren't convinced then don't buy it. I asked around on supermoto junkie in local ride alerts for anyone selling a bike for my first sumo. Some guy posted up and was willing to let me ride his Husky before I drove 2 hours to go test ride one to make sure it's what I wanted. Needless to say I been hooked just from that ride around the block.
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Jan 22, 2014 06:12
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Another good thing about sumos is you only replace the front tire half as often as the back.
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Jan 22, 2014 06:17
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Well bleeding the forks and setting them back to stock made things considerably better. The forks are still a bit harsh though. A co-worker who rides bikes suggested that I might change the pre-load but as far as I can tell that requires me to open up the forks and I can't be bothered right now. Anyway had way more fun riding it today than yesterday so I'm call this a success.Z3n posted:It's pretty harsh stock. Im considering a revolve and respring to soften it up. If you do that, I'd like to hear how it goes.
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Jan 22, 2014 06:25
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Do you have the operators or service manual? It explains it in there. I don't. Bike suspension sort of weirds me out, maybe I should just take it to a reputable shop or something. 
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Jan 22, 2014 06:45
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Incursus posted:To bad that is in Europeland or I would actually buy it! I'm in the market for an old 500cc smoker. Also, for the guy considering a sumo instead of an SV, I say find someone with one and take it around the block (if they will let you) and if you aren't convinced then don't buy it. I asked around on supermoto junkie in local ride alerts for anyone selling a bike for my first sumo. Some guy posted up and was willing to let me ride his Husky before I drove 2 hours to go test ride one to make sure it's what I wanted. Needless to say I been hooked just from that ride around the block. My bike isn't even a real proper sumo, and I was still instantly hooked. Long-travel suspension and thumper torque, what's not to love?
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Jan 22, 2014 07:57
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Minty Swagger posted:I don't. Bike suspension sort of weirds me out, maybe I should just take it to a reputable shop or something. Here are the relevant pages out of the owners manual. This will at least tell you how to get your suspension back to stock settings  
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Jan 22, 2014 15:50
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For the one person who owns a 690 in the other hemispheres of the earth, you should buy a G2 throttle tamer. Yes, it's 100 bucks, but it makes an amazing difference off the bottom with the X400 cam. Low speed snatchiness is basically completely gone. Very cool.
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Jan 23, 2014 18:03
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Here are the relevant pages out of the owners manual. This will at least tell you how to get your suspension back to stock settings Thanks! Ill see if I can combine this with a youtube of most likely a 16 year old holding his camera phone in one hand and fumbling with a screwdriver in the other to get the gist of it. Else I might just call around to some shops, ha. 
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Jan 24, 2014 04:45
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Z3n posted:For the one person who owns a 690 in the other hemispheres of the earth, you should buy a G2 throttle tamer. Yes, it's 100 bucks, but it makes an amazing difference off the bottom with the X400 cam. Low speed snatchiness is basically completely gone. Very cool. Not sure if you're talking to me, but that definitely sounds like it's worth looking into. I've kind of gotten used to it but it is still irritating. Also here's photographic evidence that there is at least 3 690SMCs in the US (this is pure coincidence I have no idea who the other riders are.) 
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Jan 24, 2014 05:20
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Yeah. It's pretty staggering how much of a difference it makes. I sort of thought it was BS, but I realized when I let a bunch of friends ride the bike and they all had difficulty adjusting to the harshness in downhill throttle modulation that it might be a worthwhile investment. And it is. I'll pull it off if I sell the bike and keep it for the next one that I need to smooth out.
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Jan 24, 2014 05:22
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690 crew Kernel, is that your bike on the right? If so, get some crash bungs, they will save your forks and swingarm when you inevitably fling it down the road. I went about smoothing the snatchiness by disabling the O2 sensor and fiddling a few values in TuneECU with a laptop. It's a lot better now, also clearing up the stalling issue that bothers some bikes. One of these days I plan on getting a G2 throttle tube, see if it makes it even better, I wish someone just made a cheap all plastic unit with the X400 cam profile. I can totally recommend the Rally Raid Manual Cam Chain tensioner if you have significant rattle from the engine. KTM just doesn't seem to be able to get hydraulic tensioners right, and if you make a lot of short trips they can even collapse like mine did. The manual one is a bit of a bitch to fit with the engine in frame but it is possible with the right slim sockets and extensions.
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Jan 24, 2014 09:06
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ReelBigLizard posted:Kernel, is that your bike on the right? If so, get some crash bungs, they will save your forks and swingarm when you inevitably fling it down the road. Left actually. The PO fitted them after crashing it. It has a nice gouge in the swing arm from the side stand. The stock exhaust has been replaced since the picture was taken. ReelBigLizard posted:I went about smoothing the snatchiness by disabling the O2 sensor and fiddling a few values in TuneECU with a laptop. It's a lot better now, also clearing up the stalling issue that bothers some bikes. One of these days I plan on getting a G2 throttle tube, see if it makes it even better, I wish someone just made a cheap all plastic unit with the X400 cam profile. Mind sharing what you did? I currently have a wings exhaust and the akro map loaded. I've been considering physically removing the SAI and O2 sensor, but I don't know if it is worth it. I know the procedures from reading advrider but didn't know if those were worth doing if you weren't fitting tons of aftermarket parts on. ReelBigLizard posted:I can totally recommend the Rally Raid Manual Cam Chain tensioner if you have significant rattle from the engine. KTM just doesn't seem to be able to get hydraulic tensioners right, and if you make a lot of short trips they can even collapse like mine did. The manual one is a bit of a bitch to fit with the engine in frame but it is possible with the right slim sockets and extensions. Hmm, might look into it. The engine definitely rattles a bit but I don't know if it's significant, I don't think it's gotten worse in the time I've owned it. At how many miles did you have trouble? I'm currently approaching 9k miles.
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Jan 24, 2014 15:58
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They're not quiet bikes to begin with, trust me when I say you will know if your cam chain tensioner collapses. Here's my old post about it.ReelBigLizard posted:Posted about this in the What did you do to your ride today? thread but it's probably of use/interest to more people in here. For the TuneECU work I just followed this ADVrider guide, it's about as technically challenging as updating the firmware on a router. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358449&postcount=13
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Jan 25, 2014 15:12
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Going to be looking at a WR250R today. It's a 2011 with barely over 900 miles on it for $4500. Anything I should check for on this specific year/model?
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Jan 25, 2014 16:44
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kloa posted:Going to be looking at a WR250R today. It's a 2011 with barely over 900 miles on it for $4500. At 900 miles this thing should be barely broke in. Do you have an ad we can look at?
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Jan 25, 2014 16:47
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Kernel posted:Not sure if you're talking to me, but that definitely sounds like it's worth looking into. I've kind of gotten used to it but it is still irritating. I know 5-6 people within an hour and a half that all have 690's. They aren't as rare as you might think, they just never sell them! Actually scratch that, one of the guys got hit by a car and totaled it, now he has a WR 450. So maybe 4-5 people.
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Jan 25, 2014 16:49
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Incursus posted:At 900 miles this thing should be barely broke in. Do you have an ad we can look at? http://neworleans.craigslist.org/mcy/4294955061.html
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Jan 25, 2014 16:55
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ReelBigLizard posted:For the TuneECU work I just followed this ADVrider guide, it's about as technically challenging as updating the firmware on a router. I was actually more asking about whether physically removing the SAI system and O2 sensor was worth it. I am quite familiar with TuneECU but I find the concept of just "blindly" trying values in the map to be a bit terrifying. I have actually been building a rudimentary datalogger in the hopes that I can gather some empirical data. If nothing else I can make some pretty graphs of my riding.  Incursus posted:I know 5-6 people within an hour and a half that all have 690's. They aren't as rare as you might think, they just never sell them! Actually scratch that, one of the guys got hit by a car and totaled it, now he has a WR 450. So maybe 4-5 people. Oh I know, I'm mostly joking. I've definitely seen at least 3 different 690SMCs around SF and a few SMs. There are presumably a fair number more in the surrounding areas from my craigslist watching. I don't actually know anyone in person that has one though.
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Jan 25, 2014 18:30
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I'll be doing a wideband tune on the 690 soonish. Probably sooner now that the daytona is done for a bit  will post up when I start.
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Jan 25, 2014 23:46
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Do all these DRZ400s torque specs apply to the DRZ400sm? http://dwulet.com/bikes/docs/Torque_DRZ400S.PDF This guy seems to think, for example, the upper/lower triple clamp bolts should both be 16.5 ft/lbs, compared to 21.5 and 23 on the linked sheet. epswing fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 21:48
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Not all, no. Forks are different on the E/S and SM.
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Jan 27, 2014 01:48
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I just decided to yank the connector for the o2 sensor today and it seems like the bike is smoother at small throttle openings. Hopefully not just placebo effect. Idle still sucks when cold.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:04
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Kernel posted:I just decided to yank the connector for the o2 sensor today and it seems like the bike is smoother at small throttle openings. Hopefully not just placebo effect. Idle still sucks when cold. It probably is. With the Husky sm610 that I have, it's pretty much unridable until you bypass the O2 sensor. Stupid importation laws and such.
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Jan 27, 2014 07:45
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Kernel posted:I just decided to yank the connector for the o2 sensor today and it seems like the bike is smoother at small throttle openings. Hopefully not just placebo effect. Idle still sucks when cold. Yeah, the jerkiness is the ECU switching from closed to open loop, pulling the sensor locks the ECU into open-loop mode. You'll want to use TuneECU to turn off that FI warning light that you're seeing now. You may find talking about this on the internet will elicit derogatory comments about how you're dumbing down your ECU but the truth is that the ECU only uses the sensor for a small amount of the time. It uses the O2 sensor to lean out the motor at very small throttle opening (like idling) and when the throttle is steady for a while (like when you're cruising at a specific speed). Since disabling the O2 sensor, fitting slip on, pod filter and remapping with a tweaked Akro map, I have only noticed something like a 5-7% drop in fuel economy. A small price to pay for smooth riding and no stalling. Kernel posted:I was actually more asking about whether physically removing the SAI system and O2 sensor was worth it. I am quite familiar with TuneECU but I find the concept of just "blindly" trying values in the map to be a bit terrifying. I have actually been building a rudimentary datalogger in the hopes that I can gather some empirical data. If nothing else I can make some pretty graphs of my riding. Sorry, I was in a rush the other day. Removing the sensor, as you have found, is an immediate improvement on throttle feel. The Secondary Air System does nothing of use, especially if you have swapped to an exhaust without a catalytic converter; the SAS redirects air from the airbox into the exhaust for around 4 minutes at startup in order to heat up the catalytic converter quick enough to pass emissions tests. Without the SAS it takes something like twice as long, which isn't quite fast enough for the testing regulations. It also adds another annoying hose to the valve cover which you have to unclip before checking the valves.
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Jan 27, 2014 16:56
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Put it up on a crate, loosen everything, grip the front wheel with your knees and twist the bars until everything is in alignment. Don't loosen them too much or the forks will drop out of the triples. You should be able to eyeball the bars to tell if they're hosed enough to need replacing. Did this. Loosened too much and the forks almost dropped out of the triples . That was fun to fix. The wheel and forks and triple clamps are all aligned now. Bars are still off, and it turns out that the bar is straight, but the part that clamps the handlebar clamps to the top triple is bad. Took those off, and on one of them, the rubber part (bushing?) is borked, which borks the handlebar clamps, which borks the handlebars. I hope all that makes sense. I'll try and find a picture to clarify. Something I noticed after torquing all the pinch bolts to spec was, I could still hold the wheel with my knees and with some force, bend the alignment of the forks just a little bit (as in, there's a little bit of play there). When I let go, everything aligns properly. Normal? epswing fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 18:29
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You're typically supposed to torque down the outer bolt, torque down the inner bolt, and then retorque the outer bolt - there should be instructions on that somewhere in the manual. As you torque down a pinch bolt, you squeeze the mating surface down and that makes the outer bolt looser. If you really reef on the handlerbars, it should twist, but you shouldn't be able to easily knock it out of alignment. A little play is normal. It's hard to tell if you're seeing the play in the assembly letting everything twist slightly, or if you're too light on torque. ReelBigLizard posted:Yeah, the jerkiness is the ECU switching from closed to open loop, pulling the sensor locks the ECU into open-loop mode. You'll want to use TuneECU to turn off that FI warning light that you're seeing now. You may find talking about this on the internet will elicit derogatory comments about how you're dumbing down your ECU but the truth is that the ECU only uses the sensor for a small amount of the time. It uses the O2 sensor to lean out the motor at very small throttle opening (like idling) and when the throttle is steady for a while (like when you're cruising at a specific speed). I've got a fully stock setup, with the akro map, o2 sensor disconnected, and the bike runs quite nicely, although it's a touch fluffy below 3k. I'm eventually going to toss the wideband on and lean out that area but for now, it's quite nice. With the G2 throttle tamer, it's a downride doddle to ride.
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Jan 27, 2014 18:38
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Re: disabling the O2 sensor, won't that kill the ecu's ability to re-tune itself for changing conditions (i.e. altitude)? I that is the case for my bike, even though the o2 sensor does indeed make it shuddery cruising at low speeds. Or do these bikes have another sensor for their learning abilities?
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Jan 27, 2014 23:08
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Pretty sure the MAF/MAP is responsible for figuring put the air fuel ratio. Well, the air bit of it at least.
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Jan 27, 2014 23:46
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Yup. O2 sensor just adjusts idle and steady cruise, the ECU has other sensors for altitude and air temp/pressure.
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Jan 28, 2014 10:07
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Z3n posted:I've got a fully stock setup, with the akro map, o2 sensor disconnected, and the bike runs quite nicely, although it's a touch fluffy below 3k. I'm eventually going to toss the wideband on and lean out that area but for now, it's quite nice. With the G2 throttle tamer, it's a downride doddle to ride. Whoa, are you running the stock exhaust with the akro map? I've heard warnings against going that, as you end up getting the stock exhaust even hotter. I'm sure I remember hearing about someone setting something on fire doing this.
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Jan 28, 2014 10:17
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All of this really makes me consider eliminating the O2 sensor on my XTX. But wouldn't I have to get a Power Commander and a remap as well?
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Jan 28, 2014 10:38
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KozmoNaut posted:All of this really makes me consider eliminating the O2 sensor on my XTX. But wouldn't I have to get a Power Commander and a remap as well? Try just unplugging it. The bike should work but throw a warning. See how it rides. Looks like you can just get an eliminator; a dummy sensor which should stop the ecu throwing an error: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oxygen-o2-sensor-eliminator-Yamaha-XT660-R-X-04-09-/251012801715
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Jan 28, 2014 13:48
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I've definitely noticed that it has a much smoother pickup from idle or a steady cruise when running in open-loop mode while warming up, than when it's fully warmed up and in closed-loop mode.
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Jan 28, 2014 14:39
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