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Are these gaps between the vertical hull sides and fenders? Those might just be there due to the shape of the hull, my T-34 that I just posted has that too, but you really can't see it when the model is assembled. Post pictures.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:10
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It's not quite a airliner, but I'm pretty proud of my little cardboard building I continue to make progress on. Painted and added storefronts last night, turned out nice! Pencil for scale.  Added a couple coats of FUTURE to the tiles to make them look tiley.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:17
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Are you able to show any pictures? the gaps are pretty small. I had a hell of a time getting the thing that is over the tread on so it doesn't meet the hull like i expect it should. I will post some images when i get home tonight.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:37
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Here are a couple of shots of what i was talking about earlier.  Also something i noticed is that in the pictures swanny has of his white putty it looks much more maleable in his shots. I am not sure if that is just me seeing things, him doing something to it before using, or maybe i got a bad batch. his:  mine: 
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Jan 22, 2014 02:25
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Do you use it raw from the tube? If it is Tamiya white putty it is recommended that you thin it down slightly with alcohol/thinner.
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Jan 22, 2014 04:19
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its squadron white putty, the directions don't say anything about thinning. I can give it a shot though
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Jan 22, 2014 04:36
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Baron, I love that building. I wonder how well your techniques would apply to HO scale, as we've got some empty spaces on the club layout that could use some temporary buildings...
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Jan 23, 2014 02:34
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Baronjutter posted:It's not quite a airliner, but I'm pretty proud of my little cardboard building I continue to make progress on. Painted and added storefronts last night, turned out nice! Pencil for scale. That's pretty damned cool. I love scale-model stuff like this.
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Jan 23, 2014 02:36
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Boomer The Cannon posted:Baron, I love that building. I wonder how well your techniques would apply to HO scale, as we've got some empty spaces on the club layout that could use some temporary buildings... Temporary?? Man how much more detail do I have to add??
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Jan 23, 2014 05:17
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Baronjutter posted:Temporary?? Man how much more detail do I have to add??
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Jan 23, 2014 16:21
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I didn't mean to insult your work, and I'm sorry if that's how it came across. How did you do the tile on the ground floor out of cardboard?
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Jan 24, 2014 01:30
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Just a coat of future to make them nice and shiny.
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Jan 24, 2014 02:21
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And for the texture, to get the lines between individual tiles? Hell, what weight of cardboard/thickness are you using?
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Jan 24, 2014 04:25
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It's been a while since I've done anything model wise or even posted in this thread but I got a 1:35 Ferdinand for X-mas of the wife and it's a lovely kit so I threw my self right onto it. I decided to try out the modulation technique since I've seen it done and talked about so much. I thought I would share some WIP progress pics with you lot through the build if that's okay. Some build shots:    First stage layering the modulation with black and then red primer:   First layers of the dunkelgelb     Where I am now. Ready to start detailing/oil paints and then a general yellow filter all over to tone down.   
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Jan 26, 2014 22:13
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Please explain this "modulation" thing in more detail.
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Jan 26, 2014 22:28
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Modulation is, in a nutshell, applying colors in gradiants to the different surfaces of your model. It provides another level of visual interest and depth in a model, to varying degrees. I personally don't care for it, as I think it makes models look even more artificial, as if each surface is independently lit from it's own personal light source. It's quite a popular technique though, pioneered in the spanish school and promoted heavily by Mig Jiminez.
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Jan 26, 2014 22:37
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Yeh what he said! Basically if you look at this picture look how the bottom left of the model is dark but it's "lit" from the top right.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:07
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Boomer The Cannon posted:And for the texture, to get the lines between individual tiles? Oh sorry I didn't quite understand. Everything to do with the model is laser cut. So for full cuts I use X power level and for engraving I use a very low power level. When designing the vector file you can colour your lines and then when you go to laser it you can set the speed/power levels and order for those cuts. Laser cutting is great. The cardboard is a really nice crafting/art cardboard called TASKBOARD, it's fantastic stuff and about 1/16 thick. For the windows and finer details I use a waterproof laminate flooring underlay called POLYBAK that's basically just cardboard impregnated with a plastic resin instead of the usual glues they use for making paper.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:46
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I see. Thanks. Does that make it look slightly weird if viewed from the wrong angle like with NMM so beloved of GW minis or does it look more natural than that?
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Jan 26, 2014 23:48
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big_g posted:Yeh what he said! Cool. How come the gun is white? Are you going to paint it separately?
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Jan 26, 2014 23:50
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I need some help with historical colors Goons, this seems to be a good a place to ask as any. I have a Searchlight, a Flak 37 and a Pak I need to get painted, but I'm having problems with the paint. I ordered some paint samples for RAL 7028 (Dunkelgelb), 7027 (Sandgrau), 7021 (Schwarzgrau), 8020 (Gelbbraun) and 8000 (Gelbbraun). I forgot to order 7008 (Graugrün). It's glossy because it's fresh-ish. It's meant to turn matt after about a week, but I don't have a week to waste, so I need some input from people more familiar. Scenario they're being painted for is Tropical 1942-43 (North Africa/Sicily), save for the Pak, which is eastern front (Panzergrau?). What is the base paint that we should be going for? Picture 1; Samples around an original plate, the grey is postwar added, the light paint in the center is wartime.  Yes, the lighting is poo poo. But here's what the colors are meant to be, in a counter clockwise order starting top left. 7021 Schwarzgrau; 8000 Gelbbraun; 7027 Sandgrau; 8020 Gelbbraun; 7028 Dunkelgelb; 7027 seems to be matching the plate the closest, but 8020 should be the correct base color for that period, no? That or 7028, which later became the standard base color from the factory. These are the conclusions I've reached, but I'm hoping someone will know better then me, and help make the historically correct choice. Working off the assumption that the paint company got their color mixes correct.
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Jan 27, 2014 16:26
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It largely depends on what they thinned the paint with when applying it, and that was both a product of German wartime industry (full of bomb craters) or applied at the front with whatever was at hand (so tank fuel, water, booze, piss...). Also bear in mind that most of the original stuff has faded in the 70+ years since it was made. Just make it look "rightish".
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Jan 27, 2014 16:56
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Arquinsiel posted:Just make it look "rightish". Boss insists on using the "Correct RAL Colors" 
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Jan 27, 2014 17:24
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Well... good luck.
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Jan 27, 2014 17:42
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Arquinsiel posted:I see. Thanks. Does that make it look slightly weird if viewed from the wrong angle like with NMM so beloved of GW minis or does it look more natural than that? It seems to be fine from any angle and doesn't need the model to be presented in any special way. Here is a decent video showing the technique if your are interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRUlAr2ehWM
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Jan 27, 2014 20:38
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Here is what the Dunkelgelb looks like when protected by a layer of gray paint for a few decades. The gray may or may not be the right shade, it was repainted for a Soviet exhibition of captured vehicles so I figure they knew what colour it was supposed to be.
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Jan 27, 2014 20:59
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I'd be wondering how they got it off without damaging the paint under it.big_g posted:It seems to be fine from any angle and doesn't need the model to be presented in any special way.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:06
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Arquinsiel posted:I'd be wondering how they got it off without damaging the paint under it. In my experience? They didn't. They matched the paint and repainted the whole thing again.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:09
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N17R4M posted:In my experience? They didn't. They matched the paint and repainted the whole thing again.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:15
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Arquinsiel posted:Yes but that's exactly my point. How did they get undamaged paint to match? Anything exposed would be at least somewhat faded via light damage and anything stripped runs the risks of chemical damage. Scape it off with a scraper/knife/sandpaper. No the color won't be 100% exactly the same as wartime, but it'll be close enough for all intents and purposes. As I mentioned earlier, reason we're not doing that because we're told to go by the color codes, which is a pain.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:21
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Arquinsiel posted:I'd be wondering how they got it off without damaging the paint under it. You have to match the fragments you see underneath the paint that are more or less intact.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:23
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N17R4M posted:Scape it off with a scraper/knife/sandpaper. No the color won't be 100% exactly the same as wartime, but it'll be close enough for all intents and purposes.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:32
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Arquinsiel posted:We're kind of back to "rightish" then. It's been over a decade since I bothered to try colour match stuff industrially, but I presume there has been some progress made. Has the thinner been mandated for you and are you receiving the paint as a thick paste or is it just turning up as a can of ready to apply paint? We're using industrial grade ship paint, to be mixed with hardener before application. I leave the type of paint at the discretion of our sprayer, and this is the stuff he suggested.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:42
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/14488898@N02/12175137956/
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Jan 28, 2014 03:28
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Anyone have experience with the Mig Productions rain effects or mud? I'm thinking about trying them out to give my tank/terrain an early spring look.
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Jan 29, 2014 19:28
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Commissar Canuck posted:Anyone have experience with the Mig Productions rain effects or mud? I'm thinking about trying them out to give my tank/terrain an early spring look. I literally just bought both of these try on the Ferdinand I posted earlier. I'll make sure to let you know how I get on with them.
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Jan 29, 2014 22:16
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big_g posted:I literally just bought both of these try on the Ferdinand I posted earlier. I'll make sure to let you know how I get on with them. Excellent! I look forward to hearing how that stuff turns out. Another question for anyone in the thread: what brand makes the best 1/35 British tanks? Specifically Crusader tanks.
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Jan 30, 2014 05:59
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British doesn't seem to be a very common subject. One single store next to me has a vastly overpriced 70s Tamiya Matilda, and an even more overpriced Trumpeter Valentine. Another has a very cheap Maquette Valentine, but it's not the type I want. I don't think I've ever seen a Crusader.
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Jan 30, 2014 06:59
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Italeri did one but I never opened the box on it to see how it looked. (was working in a model shop for awhile.)
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Jan 30, 2014 09:04
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Based on some super-quick, super-limited research, it looks like Crusaders are pretty hard to come by. Bronco Models has four in production: British Cruiser Tank A34 'Comet' A13Mk.I Cruiser Tank Mk.III A13 Mk. II/Cruiser Tank Mk.IV A13 Mk. II/Cruiser Tank Mk.IVA (Early/Late)Production Italeri has three: Crusader III AA Mk.I Crusader Mk.I Crusader III Both Bronco and Italeri make good stuff, so you could really go with either. If I had to choose though, I'd probably go with a Bronco.
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Jan 30, 2014 09:04
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