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This thing is seriously messing with my head.
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Jan 31, 2014 00:16
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| # ? May 25, 2024 09:43 |
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Stock drivetrain, but nothing mentioned about axles. Wouldn't you have to do something with the axles to make them fit an XJ that is 14" wider than stock? I don't see the point of this - Somewhere to finally use that 70" light bar? Wait, is that a loving snorkel?
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Jan 31, 2014 00:29
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Astonishing Wang posted:Stock drivetrain, but nothing mentioned about axles. Wouldn't you have to do something with the axles to make them fit an XJ that is 14" wider than stock? -3" backspace wheels...
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Jan 31, 2014 02:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:This thing is seriously messing with my head. I couldn't take it any more, I had to fix it. 
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Jan 31, 2014 02:28
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For winter time snow fun off road, do you still air down to 15 psi? This weekend is probably going to be muddy too in lots of spots. Talking stock jk tires here.
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Jan 31, 2014 03:21
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tuna posted:I couldn't take it any more, I had to fix it. Haha much better. The original is neat, but for the amount he probably paid in time and material it would have been better to just buy a Hummer H1--I see them for $50-60k from time to time.
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Jan 31, 2014 04:16
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Just gonna put this here: Build thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1094822 A drunken parking lot turbo build: quote:In reality we ran out of time to install the turbo before the event. So we packed up the pieces and headed off the Gainesville Florida. Once we were there the rumors started swirling that we might try to install the turbo down there. We decided as a team that it had to be done. Once we got back from a full day of autocrossing and concourse judging it was time to…drink. Then flash forward a few hours and NOW it was time to start installing the turbo. So at around 11 PM we all gathered in the parking lot and started pulling the stock parts off the Jeep and mocking up the turbo parts. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jan 31, 2014 |
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Jan 31, 2014 04:19
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That Jeep build is awesome--more info on where it's at today is here too: http://bangshift.com/blog/the-humbler-five-buddies-built-this-cheap-turbo-jeep-to-go-12s-and-destroy-on-the-autocross.html I love that the 240k mile 4 liter is just fine with a turbo and pushing 270+ HP now. Am I crazy for wanting an AMC Eagle SX/4 with a later 4 liter + turbo dropped in now?  
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Jan 31, 2014 19:21
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Megasquirt/turbo 4.0?
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Jan 31, 2014 21:32
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My YJ has a haunted fuel system. The rail pressure is way up over 60-80 instead of around 30 as it should be. Replacing the return line with a temporary hose brought the pressure down to normal. People say the return line outlet in the tank often gets plugged, so it seemed the fix would be straightforward. I dropped the fuel tank today. Blowing back toward the engine on the return line maaay have dislodged a blockage, but I think it was just the pressure of blowing gas uphill. It's certainly free now. Blowing through the return line on the pump assembly was fine. The fuel tank isn't spotless, but I don't see how the return line is getting obstructed in the special white tray at the bottom of the tank. I didn't test before removing the assembly, but I put it back into place and was able to blow through the return line freely. Most of the dirt is certainly from today's operation:   One of the vent connections can't reach the tank without the tank being raised back into place. I went ahead and fired it up with everything else connected, but I get 0 PSI. Should I flush out the fuel tank and hope for the best? I'm at a loss for what else to check. ManicJason fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Feb 2, 2014 |
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Feb 2, 2014 05:26
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Make sure your fuel pressure regulator (its the thing clipped to the rail right at the return line fitting) is working right, and that its vacuum reference signal hose is hooked to the manifold right and doesn't have any leaks or blockages in the hose.
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Feb 2, 2014 08:02
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I ruled out the regulator since the initial symptom went away when I replaced the fuel return with a hose going into a bucket.
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Feb 2, 2014 11:44
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I can't believe how bitchin my headlights are after ditching the sealed beams. Even with the bulbs my housings they are amazing. I'm still trying to decide if I want to replace the bulbs with something else. Either silverstars or hella offroad.
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Feb 4, 2014 06:55
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Post a few comparison shots if/when you get some. I'll be moving out to the boonies this year and could benefit from an upgrade on those dark, foggy back roads.
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Feb 4, 2014 07:04
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I don't have any before shots since my passenger side light was dimmer than the driver side and had a dead low beam but I can take some after pics tomorrow night. Trust me it's mind blowing.
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Feb 4, 2014 07:46
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I mean the bulbs; I've just got the stock 50/55 ones that came with the housings. Curious to see what some aftermarket ones look like, some IPF Fatboys or something.
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Feb 4, 2014 07:53
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You know how sometimes you get around to fixing and installing all 300 small things that you had been putting off forever? Yeah me neither it never happens. On another note, I'm looking at sports cages to add some protection for the driver/passenger on an JK Unlimited. I know reports are kind of hard to find with these sorts of things, but does anyone here happen to have any videos or photos or even anecdotes of cases where Jeeps have flopped or rolled with a bolt-in sports cage installed? I'm looking at an ORFab sports cage with streamer bars and also a b-pillar bar to help stiffen that area too. tuna fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 06:50
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tuna posted:You know how sometimes you get around to fixing and installing all 300 small things that you had been putting off forever? Yeah me neither it never happens. I have so many little projects to do, and now that I finally have the time off work to do them this winter keeps dumping snow on my jeep.
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Feb 5, 2014 06:55
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tuna posted:
I'd been considering one of these but was kinda turned off by people saying that they're mostly cosmetic.
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Feb 5, 2014 13:22
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Stupid Jeep question: on a 2000 TJ with an nv3550, can you do a 4 inch lift with just an SYE+double-cardan driveshaft, or do you need to drop the transfer case too? I'm going to do a short arm lift to get basically a new non-clunky suspension. Any recommendations or brands to avoid? I know that I'll need adjustable rear upper control arms to point the pinion up at the transfer case output, at least.
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Feb 5, 2014 16:15
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EightBit posted:Stupid Jeep question: on a 2000 TJ with an nv3550, can you do a 4 inch lift with just an SYE+double-cardan driveshaft, or do you need to drop the transfer case too? I'm going to do a short arm lift to get basically a new non-clunky suspension. The SYE & DV driveshaft is all you'll need in theory. I've read about people still needing a slight TC drop after adding the sye but I think that's maybe a fluke thing, or just people that don't know what they're doing and didn't set the pinion angle correctly. I have all adjustable uppers and all fixed-length lowers. I haven't found a need yet for the adjustable lowers, but if I had it to do over again I would at least get lower arms with some kind of Johnny Joint, flex-joint, etc. A lot of people love talking poo poo about some of the lower tier companies like Pro Comp and Rough County, but as long as you do your research you'll be fine going with them. If you have all the money in the world I'd recommend Currie products, but they're expensive AS FUUUUUUUUUUUUCK. E: Here is the SYE and driveshaft combo that I bought. The guy can't spell for poo poo but the driveshaft seems to be put together very well and the SYE seems very heavy duty (Teraflex.) You can't go wrong for $410. If you call him and give him the measurements over the phone he'll probably knock off a few bucks to avoid ebay. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 17:24
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I'm probably going to have a local company build the driveshaft. I've used Thrash before and had good results; they use high quality u joints etc. I was actually looking at some Currie kits, but I'd like to have some money left over for exhaust repairs 
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Feb 5, 2014 18:35
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kastein posted:Just gonna put this here: I love that XJ. It started as basically my '95, but with a 4.0L/auto instead of my 2.5L/5-speed. Same stripper trim level 2WD 2-door in white. I would love to do this to mine, but I actually need it as a truck. I have several RX-7s for go fast, turn good. But I really want to turbo the 2.5L, just to see what it'll do, until I swap in a 4.0. edit: Oh, I really like what they did with he bumpers, particualarly the rear one. Slick.  
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 20:00
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Sandbagger SA posted:I'd been considering one of these but was kinda turned off by people saying that they're mostly cosmetic. After seeing pictures of rolled Jeeps I'm fairly sure that a sports cage would help protect the front 2 seats in a rollover. I'm just wondering how much. I've heard of a few rollovers with them and heard they did good jobs, but Id love to see pictures.
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Feb 5, 2014 22:19
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I found a few pics and videos. First off, my nightmare of an endo roll, with just the stock JK cage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFb0bwyBNEM gently caress that. Here is a video of the same thing (albeit in a smaller jeep) with a sports cage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJkHELUa2QY  It seems this sports cage held up remarkably well, preventing a complete cave-in of the front. This cage was a Rockhard 4x4 bolt-in. Here is another sports cage after a less violent roll:  And here is the remains of a bad roll down a hill where the occupants died because they werent wearing seatbelts (and were flung out). However apparently the cage looks like it held up decently:  I think I'm sold.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:20
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The stock cages on Wranglers don't have any heavy tubing around the windshield, just depending on the sheet metal. This creates some pretty nasty crumpling if you flop it over completely. If you plan to do anything that might have you flop onto the roof, like a steep climb, or could have you roll down a hill, you want to add at least a bolt-in cage that will prevent the windshield from being the only structure between you and rocks. Guess I'll add one of those in with this round of  now that I've been reminded.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:48
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I'll be putting in the RockHard cage eventually. All the guys over at WayALife recommend it. They do some hardcore wheeling and I trust most of their recommendations even if they do have a hard on for EVO products. Here's his writeup of the install for the RockHard http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?2865-Rock-Hard-4x4-JK-Sport-Cage-Installation-Write-Up mattfl fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Feb 6, 2014 |
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Feb 6, 2014 00:51
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mattfl posted:I'll be putting in the RockHard cage eventually. All the guys over at WayALife recommend it. They do some hardcore wheeling and I trust most of their recommendations even if they do have a hard on for EVO products. The reason I'm looking at the ORFab cage over the Rockhard is that the ORFab has floor tie-ins along with connecting to the door frame. It seems like the Rockhard cage simply bolts to the door frame with 2-3 bolts.
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Feb 6, 2014 01:03
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tuna posted:The reason I'm looking at the ORFab cage over the Rockhard is that the ORFab has floor tie-ins along with connecting to the door frame. It seems like the Rockhard cage simply bolts to the door frame with 2-3 bolts. That is true. From all accounts over there, the ORFab cage is as good if not a little better than the RockHard. The ORFab I guess is harder to install/takes up some of the leg room/harder to keep the rest of the interior clean, I guess a lot of cutting is necessary to get all the trim pieces back in, they both look to be about the same price.
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Feb 6, 2014 01:12
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mattfl posted:That is true. From all accounts over there, the ORFab cage is as good if not a little better than the RockHard. The ORFab I guess is harder to install/takes up some of the leg room/harder to keep the rest of the interior clean, I guess a lot of cutting is necessary to get all the trim pieces back in, they both look to be about the same price. Interesting to hear about cutting a lot of the trim. I don't mind doing that really, its probably just a pain in the arse. It's a shame there's so much bad news about the Poison Spyder cage, it has some interesting features, but is otherwise a similar design to the ORFab/Rockhard products. There is also the PolyPerofrmance weld-in cage but dealing with the welding and painting, that's a whole other level of cost and time to go into it.
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Feb 6, 2014 01:34
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tuna posted:Interesting to hear about cutting a lot of the trim. I don't mind doing that really, its probably just a pain in the arse. It's a shame there's so much bad news about the Poison Spyder cage, it has some interesting features, but is otherwise a similar design to the ORFab/Rockhard products. Ya the only bad things I've heard about the PS cage is it's apparently noisy? And it's a bit more cost wise. RockHard is a sponsor at Jeep Beach here in Daytona in a few months so maybe I can get a good deal then.
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Feb 6, 2014 01:41
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mattfl posted:Ya the only bad things I've heard about the PS cage is it's apparently noisy? And it's a bit more cost wise. Ive heard that the instructions are vague in areas where they should be very precise. Also heard of some quality control issues, missing holes, holes drilled wonky, extra parts being included for no reason, no windshield tie-in which apparently makes reinstalling the top a little harder or something. Also it doesn't come painted which is another ballache.
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Feb 6, 2014 01:44
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tuna posted:Ive heard that the instructions are vague in areas where they should be very precise. Also heard of some quality control issues, missing holes, holes drilled wonky, extra parts being included for no reason, no windshield tie-in which apparently makes reinstalling the top a little harder or something. Also it doesn't come painted which is another ballache. Oh, well that for sure gets crossed off the list then lol.
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Feb 6, 2014 01:52
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I've been debating between the OR-Fab sport cage and just saving up and having something welded in. I'll probably go with a welded full-cage because I assume I'm going to keep upgrading my Jeep and it only gets crazier from here 
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Feb 6, 2014 01:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:I've been debating between the OR-Fab sport cage and just saving up and having something welded in. I'll probably go with a welded full-cage because I assume I'm going to keep upgrading my Jeep and it only gets crazier from here God there's so much that I want to do to mine that I'm not even close to crazy territory yet. Just off the top of my head. Gears/lockers Rubi axel swap(pro rocks maybe) 37s(eventually once my 35s are done) Cage New rock sliders(smittybilts have taken a beating) Mid arm upgrade Tie rod/track bar/misc steering component upgrades Ugh
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Feb 6, 2014 02:00
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Astonishing Wang posted:I've been debating between the OR-Fab sport cage and just saving up and having something welded in. I'll probably go with a welded full-cage because I assume I'm going to keep upgrading my Jeep and it only gets crazier from here Have you looked at any prices? I don't even know how much someone would charge to weld in something like the Poly Performance cage. Is $3k a ballpark figure for the cage + labor + rattlecan paint totally inaccurate?
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Feb 6, 2014 02:16
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tuna posted:Have you looked at any prices? I don't even know how much someone would charge to weld in something like the Poly Performance cage. Is $3k a ballpark figure for the cage + labor + rattlecan paint totally inaccurate? $3k seems seems a bit high to me. The shop I go to has quoted me about $1,700 to do the Poison Spyder sport cage and $300-400 more to do the Poly because of the extra work going through the dash.
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Feb 6, 2014 03:30
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Kastivich posted:$3k seems seems a bit high to me. The shop I go to has quoted me about $1,700 to do the Poison Spyder sport cage and $300-400 more to do the Poly because of the extra work going through the dash. That's not too bad. Maybe I'll ask around to see what people throw out. Considering you have to strip out basically the entire interior to weld in the full Poly cage, I'm guessing people here will quote me a lot more than that though. Good thing about ORFab style cages is I can install it myself. [edit] I found another account of how a sports cage managed to hold up, this one without floor tie-ins, on a TJ: http://www.stu-offroad.com/guards/sportbar/roll-4.htm tuna fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Feb 6, 2014 |
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Feb 6, 2014 05:35
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OH poo poo I want one of those AMC badges. EightBit posted:The stock cages on Wranglers don't have any heavy tubing around the windshield, just depending on the sheet metal. This creates some pretty nasty crumpling if you flop it over completely. If you plan to do anything that might have you flop onto the roof, like a steep climb, or could have you roll down a hill, you want to add at least a bolt-in cage that will prevent the windshield from being the only structure between you and rocks. I don't really do any crazy stuff that is likely to roll me but I've had the desire to eventually set up my windshield to make it easily drop-able in the summer but in a way that still affords me a small about of protection and eliminates the need to unbolt spreader bars and other things. I'll probably just find someone to fab one up to my specs when I get the money for it. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Feb 6, 2014 |
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Feb 6, 2014 15:32
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| # ? May 25, 2024 09:43 |
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Yeah, I'd put that on my Jeep. I looked on eBay, couldn't find that exact one, but there are several sellers with the same logo, but the Jeep brand name. and they're loving expensive - $50-60
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Feb 6, 2014 15:36
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