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Yeeaahhh... the monitor went to black (backlight was still on, just no picture) and wouldn't display anything again until I "rebooted" it (unplugged it and plugged it back in) I guess I should go monitor shopping.
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Feb 1, 2014 20:16
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Not too worried about the data because I have backups of all but the one hosed up (and redundant) photo file in question, but curious what's going on here... so first, I have a 3TB drive with 8 pending reallocated sectors/uncorrectable reads. I don't think that's too weird for a drive that has a lot of activity but 1-2TB of files that rarely changes, it just means those sectors haven't gotten hit with a write in a long time so the drive can't tell if the sector needs to be reallocated or the data got corrupted some other way, and the count hasn't changed in a while either. Recently I noticed the drive would randomly disappear from Windows every few days, though, so of course I immediately made sure I had current backups of everything and then made a fresh extra copy for peace of mind. Doing the copies I noticed the drive would totally drop out of Windows until a restart, and narrowed it down to when it would hit one particular file... even rebooting and immediately trying to delete the file would make the drive drop out, it's just a 1MB image file. Am I correct in assuming the drive is just spazzing and trying to protect itself when it has an uncorrectable read, has anyone else seen this behavior before? It's a 3TB Seagate I bought in Dec 2012 so I assume it's just barely out of warranty, so once I'm sure I have everything on it safe I was going to long format and see what happens. edit: this is also particularly weird to me because I've spent hours/days recovering as much as possible from at least 3 large hosed up drives (not mine!) very recently and never seen any behavior like this, usually file operations just stall/take forever Straker fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Feb 1, 2014 |
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Feb 1, 2014 20:47
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Straker posted:Not too worried about the data because I have backups of all but the one hosed up (and redundant) photo file in question, but curious what's going on here... so first, I have a 3TB drive with 8 pending reallocated sectors/uncorrectable reads. I don't think that's too weird for a drive that has a lot of activity but 1-2TB of files that rarely changes, it just means those sectors haven't gotten hit with a write in a long time so the drive can't tell if the sector needs to be reallocated or the data got corrupted some other way, and the count hasn't changed in a while either. Recently I noticed the drive would randomly disappear from Windows every few days, though, so of course I immediately made sure I had current backups of everything and then made a fresh extra copy for peace of mind. Doing the copies I noticed the drive would totally drop out of Windows until a restart, and narrowed it down to when it would hit one particular file... even rebooting and immediately trying to delete the file would make the drive drop out, it's just a 1MB image file. Am I correct in assuming the drive is just spazzing and trying to protect itself when it has an uncorrectable read, has anyone else seen this behavior before? It's a 3TB Seagate I bought in Dec 2012 so I assume it's just barely out of warranty, so once I'm sure I have everything on it safe I was going to long format and see what happens.
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Feb 1, 2014 21:47
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Alereon posted:Your drive has failed and needs to be replaced. 8 pending sectors would mean any drive has failed, Seagates never log errors until the drive is completely hosed to reduce warranty replacements, so once a Seagate drive starts reporting errors it is dead and gone. Seagate drives do have much different behavior when failing compared to other drives for this reason. I'm obviously not trusting the drive any more, just curious what's going on here. I assume it's hosed but at the same time it's acting the least hosed of any hosed drive I've worked with in a long time, but I don't think any were Seagates. Like, as long as I avoid that one file it's been pretty painless to deal with; there's no way it's silently pretending copying everything is going fine and ignoring millions of CRC errors or anything, right? That kind of thing would be grounds for nobody buying Seagate drives again ever. Now I kind of feel like I need to verify everything I copied...
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Feb 2, 2014 03:05
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Lines are running down one side of a brand new work monitor and terminal setup. They show up with both a DVI cable and VGA cable. Does anyone know if this looks like either a monitor or video hardware issue? edit: changed huge embedded image to link Peteyfoot fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Feb 2, 2014 |
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Feb 2, 2014 03:48
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terre packet posted:Lines are running down one side of a brand new work monitor and terminal setup. They show up with both a DVI cable and VGA cable. Does anyone know if this looks like either a monitor or video hardware issue? It looks like it might be the cable, grab another one if you have one laying around and see if the problem continues? Cheapest way to test anyway.
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Feb 2, 2014 04:08
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My gut feeling would be monitor, does that junk look any different if you change the resolution or run any kind of 3d benchmark or anything like that, and do they change color or anything? I've had a couple cards with bad RAM/other stuff before and never anything like that, it doesn't really seem like an ordinary artifact if it's statically making entire lines the same color. Actually trivial way to test would be running the monitor without a video source - hopefully that monitor has some kind of obnoxious "no video source detected!" or manufacturer logo or something that bounces all over the place, or maybe you can get the OSD to overlap the screwed up part?
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Feb 2, 2014 04:36
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On the topic of failing hard drives, I'm curious about something maybe someone knows definitively. SMART keeps track of reallocated sectors, reallocation events (total of successful and failed reallocation attempts), and pending reallocations. My first question is why doesn't a drive immediately try to reallocate a sector that it knows needs to be reallocated? My understanding is that it sits in pending until the next read or write attempt on that sector. How did it get into pending in the first place? If the number of available spare sectors is used up, will pending reallocations simply increase as more bad sectors are discovered, because the drive can no longer attempt a reallocation? If a pending reallocation fails completely while there are still spare sectors, where is that tracked in the SMART attributes? Is that "Offline Uncorrectable"?
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Feb 2, 2014 20:00
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DNova posted:On the topic of failing hard drives, I'm curious about something maybe someone knows definitively. It got into pending because it took an extra-long time to respond when the I/O operation was requested. Until it's used again, the drive doesn't know whether it was the sector failing or just random chance. It doesn't immediately try to reallocate probably because of an incentives problem: a pending sector is worrisome but not fatal to a drive. Once that sector has had to be reallocated, the drive has failed and it's a guaranteed RMA the company has to fulfill. Reallocation doesn't repair a drive, it just sticks a temporary bandage on. quote:If the number of available spare sectors is used up, will pending reallocations simply increase as more bad sectors are discovered, because the drive can no longer attempt a reallocation? Drives have a LOT of spare sectors compared to how many the drive can lose before failing (which is just one). As reallocations are tried and fail, sectors will start being counted as Uncorrectable. quote:If a pending reallocation fails completely while there are still spare sectors, where is that tracked in the SMART attributes? Is that "Offline Uncorrectable"? It is tracked - SMART Attribute C6 Uncorrectable Sector Count.
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Feb 2, 2014 20:21
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DNova posted:SMART questions
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Feb 2, 2014 20:26
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Thanks guys. I wanted to make sure that my understanding was complete and I figured I would get a quick and reliable answer here.
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Feb 2, 2014 20:38
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I bought a USB 2.0 hub because it had per-port on/off rocker switches, but it's only connecting at approximately USB 1 speeds that I've noticed with the connected drive (which is using its own power supply and connects at full speed through other hubs and any other USB configuration on the machine). USBDeview (nirsoft.com) says it's connected at USB 2.0 and Device Manager isn't showing any device alerts so I suppose there's no handshake problem. Probably just a case of getting what ya pay for, but might I have any expectation of getting normal USB 2.0 speeds if I can dig up an AC adapter for the USB hub itself?
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Feb 3, 2014 03:26
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DNova posted:My first question is why doesn't a drive immediately try to reallocate a sector that it knows needs to be reallocated? My understanding is that it sits in pending until the next read or write attempt on that sector. How did it get into pending in the first place?
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Feb 3, 2014 04:07
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I just built a new computer at the beginning of January. I have lately however been getting a single line appearing as if there is some graphical issue. It doesn't happen very often but I'd like to try to deal with this while stuff might be under warranty. I know this is a bit sparse but the parts were picked out of the PC part thread and I'm not sure what else to provide. Could be a monitor issue since it is old but I'm not sure.
Xeras fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Feb 4, 2014 |
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Feb 4, 2014 09:18
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Xeras posted:I just built a new computer at the beginning of January. I have lately however been getting a single line appearing as if there is some graphical issue. It doesn't happen very often but I'd like to try to deal with this while stuff might be under warranty. I know this is a bit sparse but the parts were picked out of the PC part thread and I'm not sure what else to provide. Could be a monitor issue since it is old but I'm not sure. Try taking a screenshot when the line appears. If it shows up in that, then it isn't a problem with the monitor. Otherwise the easiest steps for that sort of display issue (which you may already have done) are: 1)Reseat the monitor cable at both ends, making sure it's plugged in tightly. 2)Uninstall the video card's drivers using driversweeper, download and install the latest version from the card's manufacturer. 3)Switch out the cable for another. Test on another monitor if that doesn't work. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Feb 4, 2014 |
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Feb 4, 2014 13:03
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My new computer will be going in my room which has two plug sockets, one of which is taken up with personal items (Shaver etc ...) and the other I'm planning on using for the computer and it's peripherals. Is it safe running the computer and everything else (Potentially a new TV) through a good plugboard? What about sticking another plug board on to that one?
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Feb 4, 2014 14:12
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Entropy238 posted:My new computer will be going in my room which has two plug sockets, one of which is taken up with personal items (Shaver etc ...) and the other I'm planning on using for the computer and it's peripherals. Is it safe running the computer and everything else (Potentially a new TV) through a good plugboard? What about sticking another plug board on to that one?
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Feb 4, 2014 17:57
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Entropy238 posted:My new computer will be going in my room which has two plug sockets, one of which is taken up with personal items (Shaver etc ...) and the other I'm planning on using for the computer and it's peripherals. Is it safe running the computer and everything else (Potentially a new TV) through a good plugboard? What about sticking another plug board on to that one?
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Feb 4, 2014 18:37
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A wee question I have if anyone thinks they may know the answer: In the process of finding my gpu's stable overclock, I've noticed that when the system is under load something is spinning up and making a distinctly loud amount of noise. However, I can't figure out what it could be. I'm using liquid cooling but the only part of the system that's PWM is the rear exhaust fan; the radiator fans and the pump are not PWM, they're manually controlled. At first I thought it was the rear fan making the noise, but the noise still persists even after I unplugged it. The only remaining moving part I could think of is the PSU, but I'm a bit surprised a Seasonic X series unit would be spinning up to such a noise level for one gpu. I would have thought it would have ample wattage to power one gpu without much effort. Given that every other moving part that I can think of is manually controlled, (or unplugged at the time) I can't think of anything else it could be.
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Feb 4, 2014 18:40
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El Scotch posted:A wee question I have if anyone thinks they may know the answer: Edit: Yeah, that's why it's always recommended to size your power supply so you're not spending significant time past 50% load. Alereon fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Feb 4, 2014 |
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Feb 4, 2014 18:45
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Alereon posted:It's probably the power supply, are you sure you allowed enough capacity? What videocard and power supply do you actually have? After doing a little looking around I'm pretty sure it's the PSU too. The x-series fan ramps up pretty aggressively passed 50% so it's the most likely culprit. In normal games it's not loading up like that so c'est la vie.
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Feb 4, 2014 18:49
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I have a weird problem. I just put together a new system with a gryphon z87 mobo with a seasonic x series psu . The thing is, it will not shutdown and stay off. I shut it down (Windows 8.1) and everything goes off, then about 3 seconds later the psu clicks and everything turns back on. I get no errors in Windows or weird boot behavior. It's all normal. If I turn off the psu switch then flip it back on it says off and doesn't spontaneously boot. I've never had this problem before so I'm not 100% where to start. Any advice would be great.
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Feb 5, 2014 05:07
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Nondescript Van posted:I have a weird problem. I just put together a new system with a gryphon z87 mobo with a seasonic x series psu . The thing is, it will not shutdown and stay off. I shut it down (Windows 8.1) and everything goes off, then about 3 seconds later the psu clicks and everything turns back on. I get no errors in Windows or weird boot behavior. It's all normal.
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Feb 5, 2014 07:20
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Nondescript Van posted:I have a weird problem. I just put together a new system with a gryphon z87 mobo with a seasonic x series psu . The thing is, it will not shutdown and stay off. I shut it down (Windows 8.1) and everything goes off, then about 3 seconds later the psu clicks and everything turns back on. I get no errors in Windows or weird boot behavior. It's all normal. Some piece of hardware or program might be deciding it doesn't wanna go to sleep. Try looking in your event viewer's system logs for entries by Power-Troubleshooter. Or opening a command prompt and typing in powercfg /lastwake. If it turns out to be a piece of hardware, see if you can find it in Device Manager. Then open the properties, go to the Power Management tab and uncheck the checkbox that allows the device to wake the computer.
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Feb 5, 2014 09:52
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HalloKitty posted:Nah, Haswell is a different socket, and since you already put a decent overclock on the thing, it wouldn't be a worthwhile upgrade in terms of performance either - you'd need a little bump over stock clocks an a 4670K to have the same performance you have now, so while you could get the same or slightly better, Haswell is not exactly known to be the best overclocker. I wound up getting a SSD last week - Fry's had a decent sale on the 120GB Samsung Evo 840 ($89.99). Grabbed the last one on the shelf (never, ever a good idea at Fry's); my PC now takes about 30 seconds from pressing power to usable desktop (and most of that is POST). Thanks for backing up what I suspected - I knew Ivy Bridge wasn't worth the money over what I had, and suspected Haswell wouldn't offer much either. New GPU will definitely happen, though the current $35 GT 520 handles CounterStrike:Source @ 1920xwhatever perfectly. I remember dropping over $300 on a video card that struggled to handle CS:S at 1024x768 ages ago... oh, memories!
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Feb 5, 2014 11:52
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I hope this is a quickie. I have an XP machine that ran Malwarebytes and is now getting the 0x7B stop error. Pretty sure it's an issue with the MBR or Boot sector. The issue I"m having is when I try to load an XP installation disk to get to the recovery console, it gives the same stop code. Is there a good external resource (Maybe a Live CD or some such) that I can use to fix the MBR to see if we can get this computer to boot?
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Feb 5, 2014 17:44
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Gothmog1065 posted:I hope this is a quickie.
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Feb 5, 2014 17:46
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Alereon posted:Confirm the harddrive isn't failing by running a bootable diagnostic or connecting it to another machine and running Crystal Disk Info, usually that would indicate the drive was dying and Malwarebytes pushed it over the edge. Double checking that now, but it showed fine earlier. e: Seagate quick pass and CDI both show fine. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 17:47
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Alereon posted:Use good quality surge protectors (NOT just cheap generic power strips) and make sure you don't overload the circuit (~1200W total in the US) and you should be okay. I wouldn't even worry about a UPS because modern power supplies don't really care about input voltage and will just adjust current draw to achieve the same wattage. If you have an obsolete power supply with a voltage switch on the back replace it ASAP. Okay, consumer electronics isn't my strong suit so bear with me. PSU won't be a problem because I'm building a new rig with one of the Seasonic G-Series PSUs. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Surge-Master-1-Way-Cube/dp/B0001GYNJC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1391620950&sr=8-2&keywords=surge+protector This single surge protector on Amazon comes with a "Lifetime £35,000 Connected Equipment Warranty to give you peace of mind" which is pretty reassuring and an 861 Joule energy rating. Do I buy one of these, plug it in to the wall and then plug in the four socket power board or would it be better ordering one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Surg...#productDetails then just plug everything in through that. There's a £50,000 connected equipment warranty on it and it goes up to 714 Joules. My intuition is telling me the latter but I just want to be sure I'm not doing anything stupid. I live in the Republic of Ireland if it makes any material difference. Maximum wattage going through the plug the computer is on at any one time will be around 700-800 Watts. Will be using a hair dryer in the other plug in the room (i.e. the one without the surge protector equipped) when I need to beautify myself in the morning and a hoover as well. Entropy238 fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 18:33
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It's purely anecdotal, but the warranty on surge protectors is essentially "give us your whole office setup and we'll gently explain to you how it's not our responsibility because reasons." Being in the Republic of Ireland may change your rights as a consumer, I know a lot of countries have better consumer protections, but it's still an insurance policy they're offering, and they'll likely try to not pay if something gets fried. SurgeX makes some air gap inductor models for like $300+, instead of the MOV type, but you've really got to want one of those units. Oddhair fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 22:54
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The main deal is you want a good quality surge protector, which means one where the rated specs on the side of the box actually mean something versus being entirely fictitious like on an unbranded model. In the US good brands are APC and Tripp-Lite, I don't know what's good in Ireland. Belkin isn't "good" but it's probably at least passable and is not a scammy brand. At the end of the day these are passive components, unlike something like a UPS, so it doesn't need to be great just about as good as it claims to be on the box.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:37
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Oddhair posted:It's purely anecdotal, but the warranty on surge protectors is essentially "give us your whole office setup and we'll gently explain to you how it's not our responsibility because reasons." Alereon posted:The main deal is you want a good quality surge protector, which means one where the rated specs on the side of the box actually mean something versus being entirely fictitious like on an unbranded model. In the US good brands are APC and Tripp-Lite, I don't know what's good in Ireland. Belkin isn't "good" but it's probably at least passable and is not a scammy brand. At the end of the day these are passive components, unlike something like a UPS, so it doesn't need to be great just about as good as it claims to be on the box. Okay, thanks for the input. I'll go with http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=P5B%2DUK then. Am I right in saying that providing the overall wattage going through the plug socket in the wall is kept to a reasonable level, any extension cables I plug in to the surge protected plugboard are A-OK?
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Feb 6, 2014 01:52
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Got another odd one. Got an older laptop of mine I reformatted. Everything went onto it fine, except the wireless. In device manager it shows up as "network controller" and will not let me install any drivers for it, even went to the PCIdatabase to get a lead on the driver there. Any one seen this? Win Vista Basic Dell Inspirion 1526
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Feb 6, 2014 15:27
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Gothmog1065 posted:Got another odd one. Got an older laptop of mine I reformatted. Everything went onto it fine, except the wireless. In device manager it shows up as "network controller" and will not let me install any drivers for it, even went to the PCIdatabase to get a lead on the driver there. Any one seen this? I don't mean to undermine you, but have you tried the drivers from Dell's support site? Do you mean it won't let you install drivers for it by trying to manually update them through device manager?
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Feb 6, 2014 20:04
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An Unoriginal Name posted:I don't mean to undermine you, but have you tried the drivers from Dell's support site? Do you mean it won't let you install drivers for it by trying to manually update them through device manager? Yes. Yes. Yes. Is that too many yes's? It would not take. None of the dell drivers on the site would work or take at all. The download from getting the hardware IDs and going to PCI database would work. The proper driver from that site would not read the card. In the end, I think it was a motherboard problem, I got another wireless card from a friend's older laptop (same era), got the proper drivers, and it did the same thing, though the card worked fine in his computer. I ended up slapping a USB wireless dongle in there and saying gently caress it.
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Feb 7, 2014 01:08
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Question: I want to put an SSD into my laptop to help with my large photoshop document performance. I have a 1.5TB external harddrive and about 350 gig internal HDD. Having the external, I don't desperately need extra storage, but I'm wondering if having the HDD still installed along with the SSD will add any additional performance, at least enough to justify removing the DVD drive and installing an HDD bay adapter? I don't mind giving up the HDD if it's not worth the trouble but I don't really use the dvd drive so if it has any benefit other than some extra storage I wouldn't be apposed to it. Thanks!
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Feb 7, 2014 21:20
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You will get more storage but not more performance.
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Feb 7, 2014 21:37
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If the external drive is interfaced through USB 2 and you expect you're going to have to move your bigger projects there because of the size of the SSD, keeping the internal drive might have its speed benefits. If the projects you're working on simultaneously will fit on the SSD and/or the external drive is USB 3 or eSATA or something equally not retardedly slow, it doesn't matter.
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Feb 7, 2014 21:54
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I'm not sure that this is the best place to ask but here goes: What I want to do is listen to my TV via my laptop so that I can hear game sounds from the tv and listen to Youtube/podcasts etc at the same time through headphones. I bought a double-ended headphone jack cable, connected one end to the headphone jack of the TV and the other to the mic/line in of the laptop. I made sure the output in the TV menu was set to line out and, when prompted by the popup on plugging the lead in, selected line in on the laptop. When I do this I can hear absolutely nothing despite the TV being on and playing sound. Am I barking up the wrong tree? I thought the simple line out - line in would be enough but maybe I'm just too stupid. If anyone knows anything about this I'd be grateful. Google is almost exclusively filled with results for people looking to play their laptop through the TV.
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Feb 8, 2014 00:37
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This will vary with your particular audio driver, but the essential problem is that inputs are not played through the speakers by default. You need to go to the input's properties (either using Windows' sound mixer properties or using the driver control panel) and allow playback/play-through. If you cannot find an appropriate driver option, you can probably make something work using Virtual Audio Cable. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Feb 8, 2014 |
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Feb 8, 2014 01:02
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