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Have you determined what it is made of? It looks a LOT like the Russian made cast iron anvils that are floating around... If it is cast iron, your only option is milling, but if it has a steel face, you will be able to weld it up. I used 9018 stick electrodes for mine instead of hardfacing rods.
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Feb 8, 2014 03:39
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Fellow Bridgeport/clone owners- what DRO would you recommend? I've seen everything from $500- $1000. Looking for X-Y, possibly Z depending on price. Hobby shop use.
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Feb 8, 2014 04:39
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iForge posted:Have you determined what it is made of? It looks a LOT like the Russian made cast iron anvils that are floating around... If it is cast iron, your only option is milling, but if it has a steel face, you will be able to weld it up. I used 9018 stick electrodes for mine instead of hardfacing rods. I haven't yet. I know that the owner of the anvil has had it for 20ish years and purchased it from an estate sale from somebody who'd also had it for at least 20 years, so I know it's fairly old. With vigorous sanding thus far I've gotten a shiny, if lumpy, steel face. I'll do a spark test/run a file over it tomorrow after the sun comes back up and it doesn't feel like my nuts are going to freeze off working outside. I think I have some 8016's floating around here that I picked up from a shipwright a couple years back, would that work in lieu of 9018's or hardfacing rods? If it's cast iron I do have a ton of nickle core brazing rods that i picked up purely because I liked the color of the weld pool it left (before I learned they were meant for cast iron work  ). Can I just burn 9 or 10lbs of rod into a new face and mill it flat?Fake Edit: Looking on anvilfire's review of russian anvils, there are some similarities between what they list and this particular anvil. I'll have to investigate further tomorrow. I also remember that when I struck it with my 2.5lb hammer, the anvil face was softer than the hammer head (it left a distinct impression due to it being a newish commercial hammer that I haven't milled the face off of yet to remove the concentric rings on it). It did have a muted ring to it and rebounded about three inches before my wrist prevented it from rebounding further.
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Feb 8, 2014 05:10
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Fun fact: if you google image search "lathe," the first of the little suggested similar searches at the top is "lathe accident." With thumbnails.
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Feb 9, 2014 05:24
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I did it. I had to go and loving do it. Why did I have to do it.
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Feb 9, 2014 05:27
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I don't mind that, everyone should be reminded of how dangerous they are.
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Feb 9, 2014 05:30
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suddenly my tiny lil taig lathe seems like super nice
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Feb 9, 2014 08:41
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Kasan posted:I have a question on anvil restoration. I've recently been given an anvil (my first and the last key component to start some hobbyist blacksmithing) but the poor thing has been pretty severely abused. That's a pretty hosed-up anvil. Best thing you'll get is a shiny hosed-up anvil like this guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJX-XK0VSqA If you really care, try to see if you're able to weld a new surface to it. I doubt that you'll be able to do so, since it's probably cast iron. Edit: Take an angle grinder to it, and post a picture of a shined up surface. I might be wrong. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 12:22 on Feb 9, 2014 |
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Feb 9, 2014 11:57
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I applied to blacksmith school  15-week full-time program covering all aspects of blacksmithing, as well as design and blueprinting classes, historical ironworking (plus reproductions), marketing and business classes tailored to the individual artisan, etc. I am so psyched
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Feb 9, 2014 18:38
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rotor posted:suddenly my tiny lil taig lathe seems like super nice And even then the "no long sleeves" rule still applies
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Feb 9, 2014 18:55
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I applied to blacksmith school Where is this happening?
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Feb 9, 2014 19:11
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CrazyLittle posted:And even then the "no long sleeves" rule still applies deffo, but at worst I'll bust up a finger or two instead of ... whatever happened to those dudes 
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Feb 9, 2014 20:13
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Here's another term you don't want to google image search - "degloving". I haven't checked the lathe accident GIS, and won't be, nor the one I just recommended, but I'd put money on that being what happened. Basically your arm gets snagged and dragged into the machine, it manages to grab your skin, and then it peels the skin off your whole lower arm, wads it up on the workpiece/chuck, and rips it off your hand too. It's a right barrel of laughs I tell you. Be careful around lathes and spinning shafts of all kinds.
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Feb 9, 2014 20:17
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Brekelefuw posted:Where is this happening? Fleming College, at their campus up in Haliburton. Apparently it's a pretty oversubscribed program and they only admit 16 students a year, plus they don't look at anything portfolio-wise and base admissions mostly off of highschool english marks (which I haven't thought about in years, at least i consistently got 80%+), so I'm nervous. But we'll see. If it doesn't work out for this year I'll probably look into those silversmithing courses you mentioned.
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Feb 9, 2014 20:25
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door Door door posted:Fun fact: if you google image search "lathe," the first of the little suggested similar searches at the top is "lathe accident." With thumbnails. I had a similar experience a while ago with "angle grinder." Full face shield for me, thanks.
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Feb 9, 2014 20:39
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A guy I work with lost a fingernail when he brushed a running surface grinder wheel. He now has a toenail for a fingernail
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Feb 9, 2014 20:43
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Sir Cornelius posted:That's a pretty hosed-up anvil. Best thing you'll get is a shiny hosed-up anvil like this guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJX-XK0VSqA Wow, that anvil looks horrible. Any reason to spray paint it? (or any reason not to?) I hit it with the angle grinder on the top, horn, and soft face, and some on the side where it looks like a plate has been set into the base. The sparks from the surface and side looked like "D" on this chart off wikipedia, which says "High Carbon Tool Steel". So I think I'm good on the surface?  Here's the pictures as it stands. (I don't think it counts as hot linking since it's my own tumblr account? If it is, I'll rehost them on imgur or on my webhost if need be)    I was going to hit the whole thing with my wire wheel, but I appear to have lost the key to my grinder, so I'll have to get a new one tomorrow. Assuming it is in fact tool steel, can I get happy with some welding rods this week and mostly restore the face to something usable? Obviously its going to be a lot of metal to lay down, and I'll have to mill the surface and sides to get the right angle and the curved side back, but I'm a little more hopeful now than I was.
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Feb 9, 2014 20:51
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Kasan posted:Wow, that anvil looks horrible. Any reason to spray paint it? (or any reason not to?) The only functional reason I could think of would be to keep it from rusting, but I can't imagine the paint lasting more than a few strikes anyway. The fumes when he sticks something hot on it are gonna be awesome, too.
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Feb 9, 2014 20:57
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Spark test interpretation is of questionable worth if you don't have either A) reasonable prior experience grinding a variety of steels or B) a selection of steels to actively compare the anvil to. The latter's easy to get- round up stuff like a wire nail (soft mild steel), tools or parts that are hardened as a matter of course (and therefore definitely not mild steel), maybe something of an actual known alloy like the tip of the handle of a decent-quality chromoly wrench or something like that. I have different types of drill rod and stock on hand so it's not too hard for me.
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Feb 9, 2014 21:31
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Sagebrush posted:The only functional reason I could think of would be to keep it from rusting, but I can't imagine the paint lasting more than a few strikes anyway. The fumes when he sticks something hot on it are gonna be awesome, too. Yeah, painting work surfaces is a terrible idea, but I've seen a few anvils with high-temp enamel on the sides.
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Feb 9, 2014 22:34
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Spark test interpretation is of questionable worth if you don't have either A) reasonable prior experience grinding a variety of steels or B) a selection of steels to actively compare the anvil to. The latter's easy to get- round up stuff like a wire nail (soft mild steel), tools or parts that are hardened as a matter of course (and therefore definitely not mild steel), maybe something of an actual known alloy like the tip of the handle of a decent-quality chromoly wrench or something like that. I have different types of drill rod and stock on hand so it's not too hard for me. To be fair, for something like an anvil the difference between cast and high carbon steel is huge and should be pretty easy for even an untrained eye to detect with at least a little bit of certainty.
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Feb 10, 2014 01:51
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Spark test interpretation is of questionable worth if you don't have either A) reasonable prior experience grinding a variety of steels or B) a selection of steels to actively compare the anvil to. The latter's easy to get- round up stuff like a wire nail (soft mild steel), tools or parts that are hardened as a matter of course (and therefore definitely not mild steel), maybe something of an actual known alloy like the tip of the handle of a decent-quality chromoly wrench or something like that. I have different types of drill rod and stock on hand so it's not too hard for me. I went back out after the fact and ground some on both mild steel and on a railroad spike, and the sparks matched the railroad spike almost perfectly. That still doesn't really answer my question on if I can weld a new face, or build up a weld on it to repair the damage. Tomorrow I'll take it into school with me and machine the face down until the pits are gone or at least reduced down that I can weld it with out worrying too much about pockets or cracking.
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Feb 10, 2014 02:47
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Hypnolobster posted:To be fair, for something like an anvil the difference between cast and high carbon steel is huge and should be pretty easy for even an untrained eye to detect with at least a little bit of certainty. Yeah, I'd generally agree, that mighta been a little patronizing, I just know I thought my mild steel brick first anvil was cast iron for a bit until I actually did a comparison.
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Feb 10, 2014 03:13
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Bad Munki posted:I did it. I had to go and loving do it. Why did I have to do it. oxbrain posted:I don't mind that, everyone should be reminded of how dangerous they are. This was about my series of reactions as well. And I don't know what happened, but it didn't look quite as bad as a degloving. The Discovery Channel has yet another new show about custom cars and one of the guys on it has a huge beard and never covers it up, even when using rotational tools. I cringe every time I come across it channel surfing.
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Feb 10, 2014 04:20
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If you look at the actual images for "lathe accident" it's far, far worse than any degloving could ever be, pretty much by definition. Spoilered description: The entire arm came off, possibly more. Gibs everywhere. At first I thought maybe his entire upper body and head got pulled through between the bed and the work piece, but I'm not 100% sure on that.
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Feb 10, 2014 19:49
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Anvil update! Did all the mill work and spend a fair amount of time filing and sanding. I'm pleased were it's at so far. Turns out the whole thing is high carbon tool steel and hard enough it eat three sets of carbide facing teeth. The machinist helping me wasn't to thrilled about that. Pics and a write are on my tumble ferrumetlucem.tumble.com. I'd rehost them but I'm on my cellphone and don't think I can do that easily.
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Feb 10, 2014 20:04
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So, speaking of horrible dismemberent and death by lathe... I want to buy my first lathe! I have been keeping my eye on craigslist lately and found a local sale of JET BD 920N with base and some tooling going for $1300. They seem to go for $2200-2500 new. I went by and looked at the machine and talked to the owner who seemed like a pretty nice/honest guy. But I don't really know anything about how to tell if its in good shape since I would be learning for the first time on this lathe if I end up getting it. He says hes had the machine maybe 15yrs, but has only seen light use making occasional spacers for his bike shop. It doesn't look particularly worn to the untrained eye.  Any recommendations for someone completely new to this? Does this seem like a reasonable deal?
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Feb 10, 2014 21:11
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Kasan posted:Anvil update! Did all the mill work and spend a fair amount of time filing and sanding. I'm pleased were it's at so far. Turns out the whole thing is high carbon tool steel and hard enough it eat three sets of carbide facing teeth. The machinist helping me wasn't to thrilled about that. Pics and a write are on my tumble ferrumetlucem.tumble.com. I'd rehost them but I'm on my cellphone and don't think I can do that easily. I think you meant ferrumetlucem.tumblr.com. The pics make your anvil look like new. Clean up the edges a bit and you'll be golden, the face looks gorgeous.
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Feb 10, 2014 21:26
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If lathes are anything like cars, that one should have approximately 8x horsepower.
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Feb 10, 2014 21:40
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Uncle Enzo posted:I think you meant ferrumetlucem.tumblr.com. The pics make your anvil look like new. Clean up the edges a bit and you'll be golden, the face looks gorgeous. Indeed I did. I'm quickly learning how much I hate autocorrect. 
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Feb 10, 2014 22:50
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 This looks great, Kasan. Nice job on the face and horn, but I feel sorry for your machinist friend. I can't believe you went through so many inserts just taking off 60 thou.
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Feb 10, 2014 23:24
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at the date posted:
I very pleased with the result. Tomorrow I'm going to whack the crap out of some railroad spikes I think and work on making some basic tools. I need to remember to pick up some round stock or bar stock from school tomorrow and make a set or two of tongs. Actually I should make the tongs before the other tools.
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Feb 11, 2014 02:31
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Three...sets of carbides? The face mills I'm familiar with usually have 3-7 individual carbide inserts, and each one can be flipped around to at least three different orientations. You mean he broke and had to rotate three inserts, right? Not that he actually had to throw away 18 of them...
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Feb 11, 2014 06:16
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Sagebrush posted:Three...sets of carbides? The face mills I'm familiar with usually have 3-7 individual carbide inserts, and each one can be flipped around to at least three different orientations. You mean he broke and had to rotate three inserts, right? Not that he actually had to throw away 18 of them... 6 tips, 2 rotations, 1 brand new set, 1 rotation. I guess the original set was worn down on one side already. I got an earful this morning from the machinist teacher about it.
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Feb 11, 2014 17:10
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That's like $100-150. : monocle: Taking off rough scale on have material that isn't actually that terrible. He probably should have run a lot slower though.
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Feb 11, 2014 18:06
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Makes me wonder what the gently caress the previous owners did to manage to wear down a tool steel face so badly.
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Feb 11, 2014 18:24
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oxbrain posted:That's like $100-150. : monocle: Yeah, I mean, tool steel is hard but carbide is harder. If he'd run it slowly with the proper coolant he should have been able to do it without ruining any inserts at all. I guess a surface grinder would have been a better choice, provided you had one big enough to fit the anvil inside.
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Feb 11, 2014 21:39
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Is sulfuric acid the only way to sharpen files? Will other strong acids, heh, cut it? e: Really should do more than a cursory googlin' before asking questions, but for the benefit of other posters, most acids will work, including acetic and citric; hydrochloric will work but is a bad choice because it does some weird chloride corrosion stuff if you don't neutralize the acid very thoroughly before rinsing it off; and you can even sharpen files with lant, aka collected and aged piss, like they used to do back in the day apparently. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Feb 12, 2014 |
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Feb 11, 2014 23:50
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Ambrose Burnside posted:and you can even sharpen files with lant, aka collected and aged piss, like they used to do back in the day apparently. I knew I'd find a use for that some day.
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Feb 12, 2014 01:46
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oxbrain posted:I knew I'd find a use for that some day. xD
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Feb 12, 2014 03:08
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