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is that right front tire mounted backwards?
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Jan 14, 2014 19:25
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JQADDINGMACHINE posted:is that right front tire mounted backwards? Even if it is, it's definitely not the most backwards thing on the car.
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Jan 14, 2014 21:47
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BrokenKnucklez posted:And engine conversions in pretty much every 90's car. God dermit, I don't get this check engine light, lets put a carb on for five-huntret horse powar!!!! TBI and 90s Vortec EFI were pretty garbage from the factory, though (at least, with respect to making power). No street-driven LS motor should be carbureted though, IMO.
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Jan 14, 2014 22:29
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JQADDINGMACHINE posted:is that right front tire mounted backwards? It doesn't have fenders mounted yet, they may have just thrown wheels and tires on to roll it around. I'm going to stop hijacking the OPs loving amazing Bricklin thread now...
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Jan 15, 2014 03:54
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Raluek posted:TBI and 90s Vortec EFI were pretty garbage from the factory, though (at least, with respect to making power). No street-driven LS motor should be carbureted though, IMO. I do agree they were turds, but they did away with all the bullshit carbs normally gave.
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Jan 15, 2014 06:47
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I do agree they were turds, but they did away with all the bullshit carbs normally gave. That was still the overlap period when people were accustomed to dealing with finicky carbs. They got pissy with FI systems that couldn't be kajiggered into running right and (usually) required part replacement to be fixed, so they converted to what they knew.
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Jan 15, 2014 07:33
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After doing even more research, I came across a company that sells reman transmissions for a very good price. They have an ebay store with 99.5% positive feedback with 750+ reviews, and they have a website that doesn't look like a 5th grader made it 10 years ago. So those are both encouraging. The best part is the price or a "hi-performance" reman 4l60e with converter is $1,098 shipped with no core charge. I would just need to find the exterior bits like the manual lever position sensor and linkage elsewhere. Company's site, with trans at the bottom: http://www.schabsparts.com/HI-PERFORMANCE.html Description of that transmission is as follows: RAYBESTOS HI-ENERGY CLUTCHES AND STEELS, HARDENED SUN SHELL BEARING STYLE PLANETS, DOUBLE ROLLER INPUT SPRAG AND SUPERIOR HI-PERFORMANCE SHIFT KIT WITH A COMPLETE SONAX UPDATED VALVE BODYAC/DELCO/BORG WARNER SOLENOIDS AND WIRING HARNESS WITH A STOCK CONVERTOR. STALL CONVERTERS AVAILABLE I'm still learning about auto transmissions and GM parts in general, so I don't really know what half that stuff is. I'm approaching this transmission as basically being a thousand bucks for a working, possibly slightly stronger than stock 4l60e that I can use as a core down the road when it breaks. Seems like a good deal to me considering a used one locally will be $1,200-$1,400. They also sell a rebuilt 4l80e for $1,600 shipped which is a great price too. The only weird thing is I can't find a single review or case where someone on a forum has used one of their transmissions. Strange considering their high number of ebay feedbacks. I understand why a company that rebuilds transmissions would have a core charge, but what I don't get is when companies are selling straight up USED transmissions on "exchange". It's not like they're in the business of rebuilding transmissions, so what are they gonna do with an old broken one? That's basically how all the used transmissions on car-part.com are sold. "Only $850 with exchange for your broken one!"
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Jan 16, 2014 00:31
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BoostCreep posted:Description of that transmission is as follows: Clutches and steels are just that, the clutch packs are an alternating clutch disk, steel disc, clutch disc, etc. The 3-4 clutch pack tends to fail under heavy loads and judging by the description they are using a Raybestos Z-Pak as an upgrade. The sun shell (reaction shell) is also a failure point (normally strip the gear teeth) so the fix for that is a hardened shell. The input (forward) sprag (one way clutch) is a wear part and tends to fail under heavy loads. And finally the valve bodies are known for valve spools binding in the bores (especially the TCC valve so they used the Sonax kit to update it.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:28
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BoostCreep posted:I understand why a company that rebuilds transmissions would have a core charge, but what I don't get is when companies are selling straight up USED transmissions on "exchange". It's not like they're in the business of rebuilding transmissions, so what are they gonna do with an old broken one? That's basically how all the used transmissions on car-part.com are sold. "Only $850 with exchange for your broken one!" It's because they are scrapyards and are in the business of aluminum and steel.
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Jan 16, 2014 05:09
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BoostCreep posted:RAYBESTOS HI-ENERGY CLUTCHES AND STEELS, HARDENED SUN SHELL BEARING STYLE PLANETS, DOUBLE ROLLER INPUT SPRAG AND SUPERIOR HI-PERFORMANCE SHIFT KIT WITH A COMPLETE SONAX UPDATED VALVE BODYAC/DELCO/BORG WARNER SOLENOIDS AND WIRING HARNESS WITH A STOCK CONVERTOR. STALL CONVERTERS AVAILABLE In addition to what Beer said, a shift kit makes the shifts a lot firmer. This is good for longevity, and especially good in a high performance application, as a firmer shift = less slipping when shifting = less wear on the clutches = less heat. I actually really like driving an auto with a shift kit. 
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Jan 16, 2014 07:12
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Swiller of Beer posted:Clutches and steels are just that, the clutch packs are an alternating clutch disk, steel disc, clutch disc, etc. The 3-4 clutch pack tends to fail under heavy loads and judging by the description they are using a Raybestos Z-Pak as an upgrade. The sun shell (reaction shell) is also a failure point (normally strip the gear teeth) so the fix for that is a hardened shell. The input (forward) sprag (one way clutch) is a wear part and tends to fail under heavy loads. And finally the valve bodies are known for valve spools binding in the bores (especially the TCC valve so they used the Sonax kit to update it. Great info, thanks. So I guess I'll bite the bullet and see how this transmission works out.
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Jan 16, 2014 20:32
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While doing so, again, buy the biggest gently caress off cooler you can find for it. Even if you poo poo this tranny out, you can still use it with the 4L80E.
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Jan 16, 2014 20:40
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I got the engine bolted in today. The engine mounts need some reworking and reinforcement, but it's bolted in! It's almost perfectly straight. The transmission will help make it exact once I get it mounted. (oh and purchased)  Here's what the mount looks like for now. I'm going to remake the bottom part so it doesn't look so ridiculous and has more structural integrity. That'll come later though.  Nice and level:  Clearance pics: Firewall  I'll be switching to electric fans, but even if I didn't the stock fan would still fit. The radiator slots in the channel there to the left.  Driver side clearance:  Passenger side clearance.  Oil pan:  Bottom of the oil pan. Lines up perfectly with the frame crossmember.  Hood: I'll have to change the oil filler to a shorter F-body style.  So anyway, glad that seems to be working for now. I got lucky that it fits so well without needing major surgery. I'm ordering the transmission tomorrow, then I get to go back to the drawing board for fuel and wiring. Yay progress. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jan 20, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 04:12
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BoostCreep posted:Hood: I'll have to change the oil filler to a shorter F-body style. Doesn't that upward extension unscrew? It's possible the filler cap might screw directly into the valve cover.
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Jan 20, 2014 05:02
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I marathon-ed all 17 pages, and this is awesome. Do you have the headers yet? Are they going to clear? Also, I don't remember seeing it mentioned, but are you going to be able to use the stock, unmodified hood? I think driving a 350+ HP V8 Bricklin would be dick-shriveling enough, yet alone with a turbo or two. Keep up the good work! edit - I'm not a DSM fan, but I would like to see some pictures of your Talon. Dr.Caligari fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Jan 20, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 16:50
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Fucknag posted:Doesn't that upward extension unscrew? It's possible the filler cap might screw directly into the valve cover. I think it presses in, I don't think any GenIII valvecovers have the ability to attach the cap directly to them because the coil packs leave you nearly no room around the filler.
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Jan 20, 2014 17:53
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Dr.Caligari posted:edit - I'm not a DSM fan, but I would like to see some pictures of your Talon. I would post them, but I'm on my phone. BoostCreep wrote the DSM mega thread and has a bunch of pictures posted over there.
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Jan 20, 2014 19:29
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Dr.Caligari posted:I marathon-ed all 17 pages, and this is awesome. Do you have the headers yet? Are they going to clear? I don't have any headers yet. I wanted to see what kind of clearance I'd get once the engine was bolted in. I'm going to work out the exhaust after I get the fuel system and wiring figured out. The hood will work, though I'm concerned about heat on the acrylic once the turbo/SC gets worked out. As for my Talon, here's a link to roughly where I started the actual build. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3380267&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=15#post411626527 Fucknag posted:Doesn't that upward extension unscrew? It's possible the filler cap might screw directly into the valve cover. I'm not sure. I did a 30 second search and saw that F-bodies have shorter versions, so I figured I'd need that one.
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Jan 20, 2014 20:54
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Just read through this. So great to see all the progress on such a unique car. Gives me motivation to finish my project (and makes me thankful mine is so much simpler  ).
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Jan 20, 2014 23:51
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Transmission purchased. I went with some upgrades to help drivability until I slam it with boost down the road. This rebuilt transmission with all new parts costs about the same as a 100k mile used transmission locally. It's a steal. I spoke with the owner of the shop and he seemed pretty interested in the project. He also said he'd gladly upgrade the transmission later on once the engine requires it. Now I just need to sell the Magnum T-56 and accessories...
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Jan 25, 2014 01:45
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Buyer for the T-56 fell through, so I guess I'm going to have to try the Ebay/Craigslist thing and see if I can sell this stuff. Project will be on hold until I can move this transmission, so hopefully I can sell it quick without losing my shirt.
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Jan 27, 2014 20:10
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Any of this any use? http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4307296983.html Don't know how hard Bricklin specific parts are to find.
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Jan 30, 2014 00:22
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Wow. That's a lot of Bricklin parts.. here is that guy's parts website, for when the CL ad goes down. http://www.calovini.com/bricklin.htm e; That CL ad is teaching me all kinds of stuff.. quote:In June, 2003 the Canadian mint issued a $20 sterling silver Bricklin coin with selective gold plating. I'll be damned. Sure Enough Dr.Caligari fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jan 30, 2014 |
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Jan 30, 2014 01:29
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 Guys. Leaves. Leaves, guys.
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Jan 30, 2014 19:51
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http://jonesboro.craigslist.org/cto/4296829303.html I know it's rough, but damnit, this thread makes me wish I had $3,500 right now.
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Jan 31, 2014 12:15
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I pulled into my office today and saw this sitting in the back yard. I guess my transmission arrived. That pallet didn't hold up so great. I pulled the plastic off and it definitely looks like an $1,100 transmission. The exterior is a bit grimy. They sure didn't spare any time to clean the aluminum bits, and I'm pretty sure they just spray painted over whatever dirt was already there.  There is a small crack on the bellhousing where the starter goes. Does anyone who knows these transmissions think this might be a problem? I literally know nothing about RWD automatic transmissions, but this seems like not a huge deal and bell housings are less than $50 on ebay.  Another chunk missing on the bottom:   I need to figure out all the external bits that I need to get like the linkage.  I suppose there's no way to easily tell whether the transmission was actually rebuilt or if they just power washed a used unit and sent it on its way. Hopefully the grime and dirt is just because they put the time and money on the internals and not the case itself. Of course I ordered this transmission before I decided to sell my Jeep and buy a Ford Fiesta. Now I need to figure out how to get it home to my garage. I guess I could put down the rear seats in the Fiesta, but something about having a 150lb chunk of metal flopping around in my brand new tiny car makes me nervous.
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Feb 12, 2014 01:11
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I'm just now catching up on this thread, still somewhere around late 2012 chronologically, but figured I'd throw out that I have a set of rear wheels for this car, if you find yourself needing spares. Why do I have Bricklin wheels? gently caress knows, ebay and drinking don't mix well.
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Feb 12, 2014 02:36
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BoostCreep posted:Pictures of a rattlecan rebuild. I would be loving LIVID if someone shipped me a "rebuilt" transmission in that kind of condition.
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Feb 12, 2014 03:28
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MrYenko posted:I would be loving LIVID if someone shipped me a "rebuilt" transmission in that kind of condition. Yep. After thinking about it I've sent an email to the company I bought it from. I requested a replacement bell housing as well as written assurance that the transmission has been properly rebuilt inside with the correct parts I ordered. Short of completely disassembling it there isn't much I can do other than take their word for it. It does come with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty, so I can lean on that if something isn't right.
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Feb 12, 2014 04:17
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MrYenko posted:I would be loving LIVID if someone shipped me a "rebuilt" transmission in that kind of condition. Yep. The spare, very much not rebuilt $40 gearbox I bought for an Opel GT on eBay came in better shape than that. Of course it was still small enough to pack in a shitload of newspaper in a box...
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Feb 12, 2014 05:51
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The "sat in the garage for 5 years after I gave up on my 5 speed swap, guy I got it from let it sit for at least 3 years" transmission I bought a couple of years ago looked better than that, though it didn't include the bonus tire marks (but it did ship in a giant rubbermaid container... which was more packing tape than plastic by the time I got it). (trans wound up being garbage, but I still think the guy I got it from didn't know it was trash) That one photo makes it look like they never even removed the pan, just painted over it. And uh.. last I checked, you usually have to pull the pan to really get to any of the internal voodoo. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Feb 12, 2014 |
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Feb 12, 2014 09:36
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This is the reply I got. "I am sorry that you received the transmission beat up the way it is FedEx must have dropped it and dragged it because the dirt is over clean paint. We would like to ship it back here and make sure there is no other damage. To the transmission. Please contact me at your earliest convenience so I can have it picked up." So I guess you can read into that statement as much as you want. They either accidentally sent the wrong transmission and are covering their tracks, purposely sent the wrong transmission and are covering their tracks, or there was some sort of mixup and they are covering their tracks. Either way it looks like I'm sending this one back and getting a different transmission. Sucks that I'm going to be on hold for another 2-3 weeks. I really need to sell the Magnum T-56 in the meantime.
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Feb 12, 2014 22:45
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Take what you can get, though I agree it looks more like the "jetwash and rattlecan" end of the scale in terms of rebuilds. Even if they don't go all-out on refurbishment, it's not like a small blasting booth and some glass beads is a major investment. Incidentally, with cracks like that, a good technique is to drill a hole at the end of it to prevent it propogating further, even if you have someone run a weld on the crack itself.
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Feb 12, 2014 23:25
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Double post
FullMetalJacket fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Feb 13, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2014 00:09
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InitialDave posted:Take what you can get, though I agree it looks more like the "jetwash and rattlecan" end of the scale in terms of rebuilds. Even if they don't go all-out on refurbishment, it's not like a small blasting booth and some glass beads is a major investment. Drilling a hole is a bandaid solution at best, and isn't welding cast pieces a bad idea?
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Feb 13, 2014 00:10
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FullMetalJacket posted:Drilling a hole is a bandaid solution at best, and isn't welding cast pieces a bad idea? How would you fix it? It's not like you have a whole lot to lose, your only ideal solution is to replace the component.
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Feb 13, 2014 00:40
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Good welders can handle all sorts of cast stuff. Before:  After: 
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Feb 13, 2014 00:42
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That looks like someone got stupid with a prybar and a sledgehammer trying to get the engine and trans to come the gently caress apart. Been there, but realized I missed a bolt before I broke anything. Also it looks like a rattle canned junkyard transmission. Check if the RTV/gaskets and seals are new, if they aren't, ask for a refund and buy from someone else, you can't trust them. There should be at least slight tool marking (or imprints in the dirt/scale/rust) on all the nuts and bolts on the pan and housing, too...
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Feb 13, 2014 01:14
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InitialDave posted:Drilling holes to prevent cracks continuing is a fairly common technique, though it only has value if you get it right (right size hole in the right place), and of course it's a bandaid solution - it's meant to stop things getting worse, not to actually fix them. As for welding a casting, on something like that, I don't see why a decent welder with a TIG couldn't do a good enough job on it. If you can replace it, why not? Saves you time and headache of the piece possibly breaking again. Just seems like adding more material and possibly annealing that one area would add unintentional stresses. I'm not stating that it's impossible, just not the best practice.
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Feb 13, 2014 01:18
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Also there is no way in hell I would ever run that bellhousing, not without dye checking it to find the end of the crack, stop drilling it, then grinding out the crack and welding it back up. I broke a bellhousing in half WITHOUT it having damage to start from, and my motor made 175hp/235tq stock... 23 years and 250k miles ago. You don't want that bellhousing in your car.
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Feb 13, 2014 01:28
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