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Seat Safety Switch posted:That looks pretty good. I never could figure out how wrinkle paint works but I can't argue with the results. Laying on the paint really thick and baking the parts is the only way to get it to wrinkle up properly... I think if I'd closed the garage door to my left it would be even more pronounced. Had a pretty cold draft wafting in the whole time
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Feb 3, 2014 01:13
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| # ? May 29, 2024 13:12 |
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Looks great, and I have a ton of respect for you because I would go insane trying to clean that if I cared enough to paint things for any reason other than rust prevention.
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Feb 3, 2014 01:30
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drukqs posted:^yeah I actually blasted out my throttle body yesterday too... Made a HUGE difference in smoothness/performance. Really astounding. Seems kind of ironic that you care about this since BOVs generally make the car run shittier unless the ECU uses speed density. v  v
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Feb 3, 2014 04:45
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Larrymer posted:Seems kind of ironic that you care about this since BOVs generally make the car run shittier unless the ECU uses speed density. v Gen 3 motor uses a MAP sensor so put down your pitchfork. The stock intake isn't even provisioned for recirculation as far as I can tell. Since you're aware that Gen 2's choke with bovs vented to atmosphere you should really also be able to identify a Gen 3 motor. drukqs fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Feb 3, 2014 |
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Feb 3, 2014 19:52
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In general most turbo cars will run lovely with a BOV and a MAF because it's letting out metered air. It looked like that's what you were doing, so I commented on the irony of the situation. I'm no MR2 expert. What's the silver pipe with the electrical connection right by the air filter? I'm genuinely curious if it isn't the MAF sensor.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Feb 4, 2014 |
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Feb 4, 2014 13:49
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What did I do today? I ruined it.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:06
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drukqs posted:What did I do today? I ruined it.  In a similar vein I bought some white wheels a while ago. Discovering some tire damage pushed me into actually prepping them to put on the car finally. White alone wasn't ricey enough for me, so I've been working on this all day:  Ignore that it'll just look black 99% of the time when mounted and that the paint job isn't so hot, but it'll at least camouflage brake dust back there a bit. If not blue I was gonna do black anyway (for the same reason), but I wanted to work some color in cause I'm a dork.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:39
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I'll bet you blue yourself too.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:50
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Somebody from the MR2 Owners Club facebook page was describing to me an alternate way of quieting down a loud fart cannon... Basically I'd yank and discard the silencer. Then drill two pairs of holes (each offset a smidge) in a "+" pattern through the exit portion/tip of my fart cannon. Run some long bolts through, forming a "+" which he claims quieted his friends RB26 Skyline down from 115db to a more legal 95 by somehow diffusing the outgoing exhaust gasses "breaking up the pressure." Probably wouldn't be too difficult to do a dry run without actually drilling any holes, I'm tempted.
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Feb 6, 2014 08:52
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drukqs posted:Somebody from the MR2 Owners Club facebook page was describing to me an alternate way of quieting down a loud fart cannon... Basically I'd yank and discard the silencer. Then drill two pairs of holes (each offset a smidge) in a "+" pattern through the exit portion/tip of my fart cannon. It wouldn't be hard to test but I'm doubtful it'd make any real difference. This made me think of the silencers that used to be fitted to the old turbojet airliners' nozzles in the 50s and 60s, and I wondered if anyone mode scaled-down versions for car exhausts and whether it'd be effective.
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Feb 6, 2014 09:28
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Time for my next project.
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Feb 8, 2014 20:33
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FatCow posted:Time for my next project. What I did to my friend's ride today. e: gonna pour some soju out
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Feb 8, 2014 22:07
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Got the car back with my shiny new front bumper and headlights and did a detail today. Now I get to try to not scrape the poo poo out of it on every dip. 
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Feb 9, 2014 02:57
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[img][/img] Edit: goddamn, that's huge. A link, since I don't know how to resize on an iPad/imgur. Fail http://i.imgur.com/ztXnNFC.jpg Apparently I need to slow down just a tiny bit. That red mailbox is beside my driveway. I thought I did some damage for sure, thankfully not. surivdaoreht fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Feb 9, 2014 |
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Feb 9, 2014 13:09
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Add a lowercase "l" (for large) to the imgur url to get a reasonable size. Like this - and the forums autolink to the full size when you paste the "l" imgur image: 
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Feb 9, 2014 13:18
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What part do you add the 'l', to? I know you said the URL, but when I look at the URL of what you posted and what I tried to post - they look the same? Haha Thanks for the help, by the way. It'll be good to know how to do this once and for all. Haha Very nice! Thanks. surivdaoreht fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Feb 9, 2014 |
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Feb 9, 2014 14:32
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It goes just before the .jpg - for example hosed.jpg would become fuckedl.jpg.
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Feb 9, 2014 15:43
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Kill-9 posted:Trying to track down a weird sound/rumble/clacking in the '61 Thunderbird. Found it. It was the oil pump dying. I've now got zero oil pressure. Damnit.
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Feb 10, 2014 20:20
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Drilled out the bolt that holds down the jack and stuff under the rear seat in the Cherokee. Some dipshit previous owner spilled something back there and didn't dry it out, so any exposed metal rusted up under there. It's a through bolt, so I just drilled it to the tap size, chiseled out the little remaining bit, and chased the threads with a tap. Found a brand new jack and handle in a Grand Cherokee, and a clean bolt last yard visit. All I had time for last weekend. I've got a rear wiper and switch, wiper delay box, and fog light switch waiting to go in when I have time and the cold isn't making all those plastic bits brittle. Oh, and a factory roof rack. Then I need to find a headliner.
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Feb 10, 2014 20:53
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Kill-9 posted:Found it. It was the oil pump dying. I've now got zero oil pressure. Damnit. Dang. Did you find it before an engine damage?
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Feb 10, 2014 20:54
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Kill-9 posted:Found it. It was the oil pump dying. I've now got zero oil pressure. Damnit. So now you're gonna replace it with a 427 with dual quads, right? 
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Feb 10, 2014 21:42
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Sitting in the drive-thru this morning when all of a sudden the engine starts to chug like an old Bug. It moves but man it's rough. Power is down too, as you would expect. Got it to AutoZone and it throws codes for intermittent misfire and multiple misfires (cylinders 3 & 4) plus a Honda specific code that points to either EGR (my specific car doesn't have it, oddly enough) or valves out of clearance (possible, it has been a long time). FFffffffffffuck. I bought some wires and plugs as a starting point. It's been a year and a half at least, so no harm. I pull the #4 plug first and it's all nominal - light brown, not wet - the gap is a little out compared to the new one but not egregiously so. I set the new plug and go to swap the corresponding wire when this happens:  Well poo poo, that could be part of it. I decide to investigate further and see if water ingress has been an issue. After pulling the cap I get another clue:  Get it? I didn't until I looked back at the now-naked distributor. Normally the rotor doesn't just pop off with the cap.   Oh dear.  Oh, dear.  Let this be a lesson I guess: when buying cheap distributors from eBay, make sure the screws are torqued down but good.
Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Feb 10, 2014 |
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Feb 10, 2014 22:08
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Raluek posted:So now you're gonna replace it with a 427 with dual quads, right? Only if it's a Cammer, of course. A friend of my dad's built an ERA Cobra kit with a 427 SOHC in it. I got an all-too-short ride in it as a kid (it ran a bit hot at the time, to say the least) and even then it was something bordering on a religious experience.
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Feb 10, 2014 22:09
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Panty Saluter posted:
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Feb 10, 2014 22:19
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Oh, yes, the whole thing snapped off when I was trying to plug in the new wire. This is as good an excuse as any to buy a bitchin' clear plastic Mr. Gasket cap and rotor. 
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Feb 10, 2014 22:31
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Darchangel posted:Dang. Did you find it before an engine damage? I sure hope so. I won't really know until I start digging into it. I started it again and it was even louder so I listened around a bit then realized that the sound was from both sides and what it probably was. I pulled a valve cover and turned it over with the cover off. Nothing. Got out a bunch of rags and cardboard and covered everything in sight then started the engine expecting to throw oil everywhere. Nothing. Totally dry. gently caress. Dropping the pan to get to the pump requires lifting the engine to clear a cross member. I haven't quite figured out how I'll accomplish that. A floor jack and a pile of two by fours I guess. The car is really low so the whole thing could be a real challenge without a lift.
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Feb 10, 2014 23:13
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Panty Saluter posted:
 Usually the screw backs all the way out, falls out, and lets the rotor pop off. Leaving you wondering why it stalled, and why it backfires when you try to restart it. Don't overtorque it! That screw is a complete bitch to get out when it seizes. Put a dab of low strength loctite on the new one, though I think there's supposed to be a lock washer in there too.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:03
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Yeah I gave up on replacing rotors in the OE distributor. I think the screw was all the way out and everything was tight enough that it kept running...somehow. Now that you mention it I believe there was a lock washer on the OE screw. Might have been one here too, it's just part of the metal dust you see now.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:19
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Had an O2 sensor replaced. I didn't feel like loving with it in my cold rear end garage so I paid to have it done. Took like 30 minutes instead of the hour I was told so labor wasn't too bad. Car's back to idling normally again.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:27
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Panty Saluter posted:Yeah I gave up on replacing rotors in the OE distributor. I think the screw was all the way out and everything was tight enough that it kept running...somehow. Which engine was that anyway? I definitely recognize it as a 90s Honda distributor cap + coil cover, but I've been away from them long enough that I can't  ID a B, D, F, or H distributor merely by pictures of the cap anymore.  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Feb 11, 2014 |
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Feb 11, 2014 05:30
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Just a lowly B18B1. This is perhaps the only time I've really wanted a distributorless ignition, I think.
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Feb 11, 2014 14:29
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I recently paid $2,800 for a 26 year old Skyline. Some of you may scoff, but I've always over-paid for my cars, and it's pretty clean so I'm happy with it. I had it on the road for perhaps five days. I decided to err to the side of caution, and do what needed doing before something bad broke. In this case it was the tail shaft. So pulled it so I could have one car on the road: need to sell my Chaser so I can get some cash back together.. of course this is the exact time that my Chaser's battery decides to start making GBS threads it's-self. So I'm working shitloads at the moment, and my only mode of transport has decided to start being an rear end in a top hat.  Will take some photos of the Skyline soon.. it's all right angles and long planes 
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Feb 11, 2014 18:49
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Guess I'll pull the motor on the Protege and re-re-do that rear main seal I've been putting off since like November. The loving Lexus has a code for the O2 sensor I replaced. gently caress it, I'm just gonna have a shop do it, I'm not contorting my poo poo underneath that shitbag for multiple hours again.
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Feb 11, 2014 19:14
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Got the cap and rotor replaced to today and she runs like a scalded dog. Thank the Black Baby Jesus it wasn't anything more expensive or complicated. I did get one weird bog that almost felt like a fuel cut at one point and the tach is a little screwy but I haven't reset the ECU yet so we'll see.
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Feb 13, 2014 03:28
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Chinatown posted:Got the car back with my shiny new front bumper and headlights and did a detail today. Looks fantastic!
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Feb 13, 2014 06:06
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Panty Saluter posted:Just a lowly B18B1. Panty Saluter posted:I did get one weird bog that almost felt like a fuel cut at one point and the tach is a little screwy but I haven't reset the ECU yet so we'll see. Tach isn't driven by the ECU on the B18A or B18B; it gets its signal from the same wire that provides signal to the ECU. The B18B ECU never really advanced beyond "we did just barely enough to make it OBD2 compliant" either. If by "screwy", you mean the tach is twitching like Michael J Fox... start shopping for a new igniter (sometimes sold as ignition control module). It's easier to pull the distributor to swap it compared to swapping it with the distributor on the engine, just use a sharpie to mark the position (that way you don't have to re-time it). IIRC it's 3 or 4 screws, and 4 or 5 wires. The one time I had a jumpy tach that wasn't related to the ignitor on a Honda... it was the distributor itself taking a poo poo. That was on a B18A (91 Integra). And when that happened, the car didn't even make it 30 miles before completely crapping out. If you mean the tach is just nose diving to zero (and staying there), then it's probably the cluster itself, or the harness. But "screwy tach" + "almost felt like fuel cut" mimics everything I've seen on a Honda with a failing igniter. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:16 on Feb 13, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2014 12:07
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Well it's been weird for a while, although the latest adventure probably didn't prolong its life at all. Again, this is what I get for buying a cheap eBay distributor. I'll see about just replacing the ICM soon.
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Feb 13, 2014 13:53
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Today I changed my Mazda 6 Atenza's turbine speed sensor that shat itself. Took 2-3hours and 2 youtube videos to figure it out, but I saved two hours of labour at the local auto-sparkies.
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Feb 14, 2014 06:53
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Gone. Baby.  Gone.  God, what a poo poo job that was. New clutch on the Pug, and while in there we changed the rear main seal, since it was weeping quite badly.
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Feb 15, 2014 00:00
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I have a disease - my inner ricer will not die (it probably doesn't help that I feed him with F&F marathons and Initial D). More decals! (Since it's still under warranty.)   A new shift knob - the stock one had an obnoxious chrome trim ring that would reflect sunlight into my eyes all the drat time.   gently caress Jeep for the press fit design of the factory knob. Almost needed a full face helmet for removing it.
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Feb 15, 2014 04:58
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