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HotCanadianChick posted:It's not, really. Performance is pretty much the same as a normal sport package 330i, though they do feel a bit sportier due to the slight suspension differences and shorter final drive. The ZHP package is US only, but Canada got more or less the same thing under that M-performance package moniker. They're nice if you can get a good deal on one, but don't overpay too much on one, they don't really add significant performance (I own and love my ZHP, but I got it for a decent price). I appreciate the info. How short is the final drive? I've been driving around for a year with a very short final drive and it's almost too much (around 3.7k rpm at 60mph). What RPM would you be doing at 60mph on the highway in 6th gear?
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Feb 17, 2014 04:32
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Stumpus posted:Here's one that just popped up in my area. Aside from the rims, which I'm not a fan of, it looks pretty legit. Is this around the price you would expect? Flip out DVD player? Different non factory alloys and a questionable auto? 8k? No. Stop. And don't. With out records, I wouldnt touch it. Definitely for that price.
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Feb 17, 2014 04:32
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Stumpus posted:Here's one that just popped up in my area. Aside from the rims, which I'm not a fan of, it looks pretty legit. Is this around the price you would expect? It's looks likely that it's been in a wreck. You can tell from the seams on the body on the drivers side where the fender and bumper meet. It also looks to have a sport steering wheel and no sport seats. Those rims turn me completely off, as does the aftermarket shift knob. New DISA and Cooling System is good, I highly doubt he dropped $80 every 3000 miles, I'm pretty meticulous and I only do oil changes ever 6-7500 miles. (1/2 of BMW's recommended service interval) 35mpg on the highway is completely laughable, I doubt it even got that when the car was new. It honestly looks like a teenagers/hooligan's car with the combination of automatic transmission shift knob/rims/clear corners/spray tint on the rear lights/dvd player. I'd run as far away as possible from this car if I was you. You really need to read this and answer the question: SuperDucky posted:I've never really disagreed with Viper as we tend to be the welcoming chorus but I would advise against a 46 in that price range as your first experience in the marque. If you're buying this as a "status car" well, you've missed the boat by a decade. These are getting on 12+ year old cars with sometimes frustrating electronics. You must be willing to DIY or it is absolutely not worth it to own one. Most of us drive these cars because we love them, the way they drive and/or we hate ourselves.
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Feb 17, 2014 04:36
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Thanks for the advice. Those things were red flags to me too but I figured I could replace those niggling issues, especially if it had been meticulously maintained. In answer to your question, however, I just like driving the BMW. I like the way it looks and feels. I don't think you need much more than that for a car. Also, relax.
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Feb 17, 2014 05:38
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I feel like I have to share. So I ended up buying a manual 93 E36 325 for those who remember me asking a little while back and by now I must have put a couple of thousand miles on the odometer in the space of a month and half. I can't say that every day has been unadulterated pleasure but all in all what's the most telling for me is that it's been a car that's I am planning my journeys to incorporate taking mountain roads even if they are relative detours to get to my destination. Coming from an econobox driving appliance the ride is different experience in a very good way, the added power is enough to be fun without being lethal to a relatively inexperienced driver like me and that exhaust note is just pure joy. I think I get terrible (compared to my last econobox, though honestly not as much as I thought it would be) mileage just because I can't resist making the thing sound sweet. I am mechanically inexperienced and I'll just have to do my best to pick up skills while taking it to the shop for every other thing that I don't have the time/know-how to do, but since I've started working it's falling well within my budget. My only complaint is that it's summer and the a/c is shot, and I haven't had a quote but I assume it's both beyond the skills of a newbie and disproportionately expensive for the value of the car. But I live in a fairly temperate climate and there isn't any situation where i can't either wind down the windows or put on another jersey to make the cabin bearable. All in all. It's been a fun buy, and a fun little indulgence that I plan to hopefully last me at least last me the next 3-5 years as a introduction to see how much I really like RWD coupes and whether I should save up some more for something even more exciting. I have to say it's been both educational and enlightening.
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Feb 17, 2014 05:56
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Stumpus posted:Here's one that just popped up in my area. Aside from the rims, which I'm not a fan of, it looks pretty legit. Is this around the price you would expect? I'm in the zip code over from this posting. If you're local to Utah/salt lake there is a relatively decent Facebook group called Utah BMW enthusiasts. There is a mix of kids that are looking to do 'sick mods' but also some more mature guys that like a tasteful factory approach and are knowledgeable. It's a decent resource to post ksl listings since there is often people that know who it belongs to and can give better insight to how it was maintained. A number of us got together for cars and coffee this Saturday (my first as a BMW owner) and it's a really excellent local scene and good community to be a part of. Aside from that, it is photographed well and in a clean garage which are good signs. The wheels and stereo and auto trans are enough to say no. Having a cooling system replaced by BMW of pleasant grove is about the best thing going for it.
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Feb 17, 2014 06:03
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This last page has been very informative. I have 8k ready to buy something to replace my E34 and that puts me squarely in E46 territory. I'm happy to see the list of faults more or less includes in the usual (omg cooling system) plus a few other minor ones.
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Feb 17, 2014 07:04
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VelociBacon posted:I appreciate the info. How short is the final drive? I've been driving around for a year with a very short final drive and it's almost too much (around 3.7k rpm at 60mph). What RPM would you be doing at 60mph on the highway in 6th gear? I turn over 4500 @ 80. Stumpus posted:Here's one that just popped up in my area. Aside from the rims, which I'm not a fan of, it looks pretty legit. Is this around the price you would expect?  Walk away.
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Feb 17, 2014 17:09
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I'm about to test drive a 2008 328i and 2007 328i. Anything specific I should know about? Edit: both are around 75k miles and seem to have a clan Carfax report. Both are similarly priced at 14-15k. http://www.todey.com/2008_BMW_3%20Series_224894244.veh http://www.bluerhinomotors.com/detail.aspx?id=4038853&PrefID=0&.aspx http://www.bluerhinomotors.com/detail.aspx?id=3932272&PrefID=0&.aspx Just a few I'm looking at. Hand of the King fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Feb 17, 2014 |
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Feb 17, 2014 17:10
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Hand of the King posted:I'm about to test drive a 2008 328i and 2007 328i. Anything specific I should know about? They're all about the same spec, the last one seems to have xenon headlights and power seats. Some of the early n52 motors had a lifter problem that can be expensive to fix, google about it. They are all in range of needing a water pump/thermostat, they fail anywhere between 60k and 100k in these cars from what I have read. You're also in the range of changing all the fluids (trans, differential, coolant if the pump hasn't been done). BMW calls the trans and diff fluid lifetime, but if you want to hold onto the car do the maintenance. I bought a 2010 328xi about a year ago and I'm generally happy with it. I don't like the run flat tires, they ride and wear like poo poo. Then if you want to change over to regular tires, there is no spare. Also, I don't think any of the cars you listed are going to have folding rear seats. I knew that when I bought my car and got a roof rack, but in hindsight it's my biggest regret about the car. In good news, I still love how the car handles and accelerates. It's an animal in the snow with decent tires. Just know that maintenance will be a little more expensive than you expect if you're coming from a non-German car.
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Feb 17, 2014 17:48
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TacoHavoc posted:They're all about the same spec, the last one seems to have xenon headlights and power seats. Some of the early n52 motors had a lifter problem that can be expensive to fix, google about it. They are all in range of needing a water pump/thermostat, they fail anywhere between 60k and 100k in these cars from what I have read. You're also in the range of changing all the fluids (trans, differential, coolant if the pump hasn't been done). BMW calls the trans and diff fluid lifetime, but if you want to hold onto the car do the maintenance. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm about to head out to the dealers and hoping to come back with the car. I hope none of them give me crap with asking for a PPI. I'm pretty good about DIYs for my Lexus RX 300 - is it much harder for BMWs? Also is 14-15k reasonable price for the cars I posted? Hand of the King fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Feb 17, 2014 |
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Feb 17, 2014 18:20
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VelociBacon posted:If it's got a slipping clutch that's a service item, probably no more than $1k all together if you do absolutely none of the work yourself. Anyway, I did zero of the work myself and while I can't remember exactly how much it cost I'm pretty sure it was something like $600 or $700 in my e36 328is. I'm guessing the clutch isn't terribly different in an e46 323. A clutch that gradually wears out, in my experience, doesn't feel dramatically different because you don't notice the tiny differences day-to-day until it starts to really slip, badly. Your mechanic, assuming they're honest, might have suggested it for reasons of mileage ("well, the clutch has got [service interval] miles on it, we'll put the recommendation to the customer") or because their test-drives felt very different from other, similar cars that they'd recently worked on. I'd say try to sell it at some reasonable middle-of-the-road price, warn any potential driver that your mechanic thinks the clutch is about due for replacement - don't say "the transmission needs work", say "the clutch probably needs replacing sometime this year" - those are very different things! Let any potential buyer decide for themselves how that clutch feels on a test drive. Also those tests Crustashio, Ziploc, and VelociBacon described. Which are things a savvy buyer will do on a test drive anyway. 8ender posted:I have 8k ready to buy something to replace my I'm borrowing a (very generous - thanks Phil!) friend's 2002 Ford Focus wagon for a trip, and while the extra space in the back is very handy, I badly miss my car every minute in that Ford. It's very much an apples-to-oranges comparison, but mein Gott, having actual throttle response is something I'd been taking for granted for too long!
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Feb 17, 2014 19:06
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One of the many perks of RWD over FWD is that clutch jobs tend to be less laborious and thus cheaper, even on "fancy" cars like BMWs. But yeah anyone that tells you that your clutch "is going out within x miles" without physically inspecting the clutch disc by dropping the transmission bell housing is full of poo poo (unless x is 1 mile because its slipping so bad already but that is very very obvious). At which point they'd have already done more than half of the work of replacing the clutch. The manual transmissions themselves in most BMWs are pretty drat stout and tend to last the life of the vehicle. The clutch is a wear item and its life will depend on your driving and how high-powered the car is, but most factory clutches should last well over 100k miles.
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Feb 17, 2014 19:21
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Hand of the King posted:Thanks for the quick reply. I'm about to head out to the dealers and hoping to come back with the car. I hope none of them give me crap with asking for a PPI. I'm pretty good about DIYs for my Lexus RX 300 - is it much harder for BMWs? Just doing a quick glance, those are extremely overpriced. There are 9 for sale within 150 miles of those with less than 60k miles on them for 15k or less. Just go to cars.com/autotrader.com and look around. It's pretty easy to find used cars these days.
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Feb 17, 2014 20:24
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The clutch job on an e46 will be a bit of a pain to do on your own from what I can tell, mainly because you've got to drop the exhaust pipes. I guess that's better than the time where I had to cut the exhaust with an angle grinder to be able to drop the transmission on my fiat, but then there are like, 12 bell housing to block bolts on the bmw trans, and they're all torx heads. I bet the transmission isn't that light either -- 100 lbs, maybe? But if you're doing the clutch, replace the giubo too.
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Feb 17, 2014 20:34
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Is there anything about the E86 (non-M) I need to look out for besides general BMW I6 maintenance? Looks like my E46 is probably totaled and I'm looking for something a bit newer.
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Feb 18, 2014 01:48
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I'm really interested in a 98 M3 I found. The only problem is that it has 171000 miles. That's a big red flag for me, but the pickins are slim around these here parts. The previous owner has had the following done to the car: Maintenance within the last 1000 miles... -New El Ring headgasket -ARP Headstuds -Head Refurbed (Decked,Valves refaced, All new seals etc) -New upgraded Stainless Water pump -New Hood Cable -Coolant Flush -Lubro Moly 5w40 synthetic oil change -New Rubber intake elbow -Vanos checked Maintenance Done Within the last 2 years... -Behr radiator -All New Coolant hoses -Behr Expansion Tank -Thermostat -Fan -Aluminum Thermostat housing -Rear Shock tower reinforcement plates -Zimmerman rotors and Akebono pads all around -Royal Purple Diff Fluid Change -Royal Purple Trans Fluid Change -Oil changes always done (Mobil 15w50 or Lubromoly 5W40) -Lemforder Guibo -New Windshield -Rear shock mounts -Diff Speed sensor -Shifter Bushings -Valve Cover gasket -Fuel Filter -All Belts replaced -Clutch Pedal bushings -Clutch Delay Valve Removed and new rubber clutch hose installed -Spark plugs To me it seems like most of the common maintenance problems have been addressed. Is there something else I should be looking for when I go check the car out? I'm planning on daily driving the car, that's not too stupid of a thing to do, right?
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Feb 18, 2014 07:16
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Scorpio posted:To me it seems like most of the common maintenance problems have been addressed. Is there something else I should be looking for when I go check the car out? I'm planning on daily driving the car, that's not too stupid of a thing to do, right? Only thing I'd be questioning is why all that maintenance and then sell the car? The last two years stuff is the kind of maintenance you do when you plan on keeping your M3 for a long time. The maintenance done in the last 1000 miles would have me worrying that there was a catastrophic cooling failure and head gasket problem, maybe both at the same time. If they're unloading it after all that work I'd be worried something was done wrong and the engine still has issues. Be very careful.
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Feb 18, 2014 07:27
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Yeah I was gonna say the same thing. Who puts that much work into a car just to flip it? I wouldn't necessarily write it off, as that list seems to address a lot of the common maintenance concerns (a big one for me was the cracked intake boot). It may be worth it to hold out for awhile. If you're serious about an M3 start expanding your search area, you'll be surprised by price difference if you're willing to pickup a car. I daily drive my e36 M3 (well except winter, then it's the e30) and I love it. Just keep up on maintenance and it's not too bad. Parts cost more but it's not unreasonable if you're willing to put in a little effort to DIY.
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Feb 18, 2014 07:45
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I'm gonna put this here in the hopes it gets empty quoted every time someone goes to buy an Look, people. We're at the stage of life of these motors be they m10,20,42,50,52,54 etc. That there can be no telling what the hell/GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM issues they've had, regardless of mileage. If you want to be sure of the health of any BMW motor you buy, the People in this world are dishonest. Even moreso when it comes to selling cars. Caveat emptor.
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Feb 18, 2014 08:11
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 (Old pic as most of my photos are of it with the bonnet up) '85 build 325e that I picked up cheap a few years ago. It's a slow labour of love as it's pretty rough. The radiator flexed up and down quite badly until I dropped a new one in and the cooling system - WTF? The expansion tank has a habit of threading if I'm not careful so I dropped a new one in. Currently it's a sunshine only car because I have water leaking into the boot and a bit of rust in the rear wheel-wells that needs to be cut out. I'm going to take it off the road, strip it and sort the rust out, fix the BBS body kit so that it fits a bit better (it really is a crap fit) and then do something with the eta motor and slushbox. I have an 885 head in the garage and am thinking of boosting the M20 and backing it with a 5 speed or tossing the lot and dropping a Beams motor into it. Part of me wants to stick with a 6 cylinder though, my DC2R provides all the high-revving fun I need. The car is actually quite decent, and more than comfortable enough for a Sydney to Melbourne drive. (BTW, I really am tempted with a Jap implant because of the stupidly convoluted BMW cooling system!)
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Feb 18, 2014 08:55
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That body kit is so delightfully 80s that I want one very badly for my 325es now 
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Feb 18, 2014 15:50
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Saw this t-shirt and thought of letting folks here know about since usually the shirts they sell are kind of lame (IMO). For 2002 fans: http://blipshift.com/
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Feb 18, 2014 16:37
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I bought an E36 M3 in the fall and immediately stored it without getting a leakdown test. Pray for me.
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Feb 18, 2014 16:43
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I've money shifted mine. Twice. Still runs like a top.
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Feb 18, 2014 18:41
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Crustashio posted:I've money shifted mine. Twice. Still runs like a top. I read an article that says that money shifted M3s with bent valves still run smoothly. 
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Feb 18, 2014 19:36
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A fun online toy: http://www.bmwarchiv.de/vin/ Lets you see your equipment list, and if you have a relatively modern model, it will autogenerate a pic of your car and interior. Mine is spot on: 
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Feb 18, 2014 20:06
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I worried about that at first but stopped caring after I did a summers worth of track days and slaloms. If it breaks I will get another s52 and have this one as a rebuild project. It wasn't a redline moneyshift so I only went into the mid 7000s.
Crustashio fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 20:23
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evobatman posted:A fun online toy: http://www.bmwarchiv.de/vin/ That site is really loving broken. It listed my E46 330 coupe as a convertible with a black top. And a sunroof. Also, it listed the car as having both the Business CD player AND the Navigation system - two mutually exclusive options.
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Feb 18, 2014 21:19
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MrChips posted:That site is really loving broken. It listed my E46 330 coupe as a convertible with a black top. And a sunroof. Also, it listed the car as having both the Business CD player AND the Navigation system - two mutually exclusive options. Try www.etk.cc and see what it says. It could be your record that's messed up. My car and all the cars of my friends have been consistent and correct through 4-5 of these vin decoder sites.
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Feb 18, 2014 21:49
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evobatman posted:Try https://www.etk.cc and see what it says. It could be your record that's messed up. My car and all the cars of my friends have been consistent and correct through 4-5 of these vin decoder sites. That's why I said it in the first place; every other VIN decoder site is correct for my car (including the one you mentioned).
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Feb 18, 2014 22:06
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Any cheap tire recommendations? Hit a pot hole that popped the front passenger and the other day I noticed a bulge on the back one. I need a cheap fix to hold me over for a little bit. Also I have the 205/50 r17s
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Feb 19, 2014 00:13
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Stupid Post Maker posted:Any cheap tire recommendations? Hit a pot hole that popped the front passenger and the other day I noticed a bulge on the back one. I need a cheap fix to hold me over for a little bit. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+Z+III&partnum=05YR7HTRZ3XL http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...romCompare1=yes I've been running the HTR Z III for awhile now and its a great tire. That said I live in San Diego so there is rarely anything but dry pavement.
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Feb 19, 2014 00:33
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evobatman posted:A fun online toy: http://www.bmwarchiv.de/vin/ Well the picture is right, but it has the wrong wheels. 2 lines under my optional equipment that I don't know... S823A Hot climate version S319A Integrated universal remote control What? It's translated from German obviously, but what? edit --- ahh yes, garage door opener. The thing I felt like I was break my garage door trying to calibrate, and never even succeeded in doing. Binge fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Feb 19, 2014 |
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Feb 19, 2014 03:15
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Remote control is probably a garage door opener.
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Feb 19, 2014 03:19
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Ok I'm having a hard time deciding on what to spend money on here. I've got my winter wheels/tires, and now I'm gonna get a summer combo. I plan on going to a driving school at Watkin's Glen racetrack, and maybe 2 or so autocross's, and whatever else I feel comfortable with this summer. I don't want to overdo anything since this is my one and only car. It's an 08 e90 335xi. I'm going to get some Hawk HPS pads in a couple weeks, just had my cooling system flushed last week, changing the oil soon (just waiting for it to warm up). I plan on changing the water pump later in the summer (which I'm sure I'll post about frantically when I'm prepared to do it) So I've given myself until friday to decide what wheel/tire combo to get before I hit purchase. I like posting this here to see opinions, and if I'm likely about to make a bad decision. My car is titanium silver. Windows are tinted, got black roundels, going to vinyl wrap the chrome trimline around the windows when it's warm, and now I want black wheels. I like someone of the ones with silver/chrome trim, (although I do not like the outer ring being silver). So this is what I'm tentatively got ready to go in tirerack's cart:   With the TPMS, mounting and shipping it's like 1300 bucks.
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Feb 19, 2014 04:11
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Binge posted:Ok I'm having a hard time deciding on what to spend money on here. I've got my winter wheels/tires, and now I'm gonna get a summer combo. I plan on going to a driving school at Watkin's Glen racetrack, and maybe 2 or so autocross's, and whatever else I feel comfortable with this summer. I don't want to overdo anything since this is my one and only car. Those are good tires, rims are preference if they're not really heavy, I would caution you against the hawk HPS pads if you're doing track driving with it - they aren't really as good as a lot of people think. With the investment you're putting into this you might be well served to pick up some proper track pads and use the HPS for your auto-x and DD. Also if you ARE going to run HPS pads just get whatever color rim you want because within a week it'll be black anyways 
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Feb 19, 2014 05:10
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1998 M3 What is the normal death process of a crank sensor on our cars? I have gotten a p0355 code on three separate occasions when the car has acted up. No power, won't rev ect… It has happened each time when the weather has been transitioning rapidly hot/cold. I thought when they went bad they would just drop dead. If the car is shut off it will start back up and run normally. BFC is a hot mess dog pile of opinions. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Feb 19, 2014 |
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Feb 19, 2014 05:38
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Binge posted:Ok I'm having a hard time deciding on what to spend money on here. I've got my winter wheels/tires, and now I'm gonna get a summer combo. I plan on going to a driving school at Watkin's Glen racetrack, and maybe 2 or so autocross's, and whatever else I feel comfortable with this summer. I don't want to overdo anything since this is my one and only car. If you're looking for seriously good tires, I wouldn't go with anything but Michelin pilot super sports, but they will be quite a bit more expensive than what you're looking at currently (in the $900-1000 range for a set of 4). Additionally, if you're using your stock wheels for winter tires, you may want to think about using those wheels for summer and getting another set for winter. Unless you're looking at high end wheels, they probably weigh less than anything else.
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Feb 19, 2014 05:44
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I put Michelin Pilot Super Sports on my E46 and goddamn are they good tires. If you have the means I highly recommend them. I was able to get them for around $850 after rebate from TireRack.
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Feb 19, 2014 05:46
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