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Slow is Fast posted:Take it on the highway for a bit and try again. It's probably fine, but mine only acted up when it was warmed up. Yeah I would never notice the problem when I first hopped in, but after a few miles of 45+ speeds pulling into a parking lot was not fun. Mine got so bad it would actually stall the engine if I left the clutch in and made too sharp of a turn below 10mph.
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Feb 13, 2014 18:41
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I currently have an eBay catless downpipe on my '07 WRX. Lots of other stuff done to the car including a Blouch 16G turbo. Custom tune, obviously. I'd like to move to a catted downpipe eventually- would I need a retune?
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Feb 14, 2014 04:08
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Fifty Three posted:I currently have an eBay catless downpipe on my '07 WRX. Lots of other stuff done to the car including a Blouch 16G turbo. Custom tune, obviously. I'd like to move to a catted downpipe eventually- would I need a retune? Yes, and with all the money you've spent on the car it makes sense to tune it to get the most out of it.
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Feb 14, 2014 04:22
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Luckily the previous owner was the one who spent all the cash on mods and I picked it up for the price of a stock WRX.  But thanks, will do.
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Feb 14, 2014 06:33
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Has anyone had any issues with the rack and pinion on their Subaru? We have a 2010 WRX with 63k and a few days ago it started vibrating whenever the wheels were turned. The power steering pump also whines a bit, especially when it's under load. I took it in to a nearby mechanic and they jacked it up and showed me what was going on. I think it was a blown top seal on the pinion (my terminology may be wrong, I have zero experience working on steering). They said it would need a new rack and pinion assembly. The part runs in the neighborhood of $700 so after everything is said and done with labor and an alignment, it's coming to $1200. Normally, I wouldn't mind trying to do it myself, but I neither have the time or the space. I called the dealership today and asked them about what it would cost to have it done there as well. They came up with a similar figure although they have to order the part which will take a few days (same as the other shop). If it's the same price as the other shop, should I go with the dealership? I was going to take it down there tomorrow to have them actually look at it and give me an accurate quote. Is this unusual for this to happen with this amount of miles? My wife and I do not drive this car hard at all.
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Feb 14, 2014 09:15
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Update on mismatched tires and whine: I got new tires yesterday and the whine went away. I'm pleasantly surprised, shocked really. I'm sure there's still some damage, likely the transfer case bearings from what I'm hearing here and other places, but with the same tires the case isn't having the strain that leads to the noise it appears.orinth posted:Has anyone had any issues with the rack and pinion on their Subaru?
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Feb 14, 2014 15:46
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orinth posted:Has anyone had any issues with the rack and pinion on their Subaru? Mine has 270k miles on it, assuming it is the factory rack, which is likely based on the PO's attitude to maintenance. Doesn't seem to have any issues beyond some weirdness when it's cold. I did notice one of the seals had started leaking the other day.
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Feb 14, 2014 15:53
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Did another slow turn test after being on the highway for 10 minutes and 80kmh roads for another 15 and it still feels like it should. The only resistance was the steering wheel wanting to reset. No noise except the engine and the wheels. Next on the list is fighting out how to get at the fog lights without vision because my head doesn't fit under the front of the car and I don't have a jack or stands that haven't been sitting in a shed for 10+ years rusting. After that installing the stupid hella Supertones I impulse bought.
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Feb 15, 2014 01:53
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Did another slow turn test after being on the highway for 10 minutes and 80kmh roads for another 15 and it still feels like it should. The only resistance was the steering wheel wanting to reset. No noise except the engine and the wheels. 03 blobeye right? Use a screwdriver to pop the fog light surrounds off the bumper and then its 1 or 2 10mm bolts holding the whole fog lamp in. And don't worry about your centre diff, there will be nothing wrong with it. The transfer bearings will eat the pain before the centre diff does and if theyre hosed then you'd already hear it.
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Feb 15, 2014 02:00
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ChunksNensja posted:03 blobeye right? Use a screwdriver to pop the fog light surrounds off the bumper and then its 1 or 2 10mm bolts holding the whole fog lamp in. A good test is to clutch in at about 60 MPH. It sounds like medium pitch whine.
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Feb 15, 2014 03:01
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You can just do that? Sweet. The service manual tells you to go from underneath and remove the mud guards or whatever from the wheelarch. I'll do that clutch test on the highway on the way to work
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Feb 15, 2014 03:02
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Just wanted to chime in and thank everyone for the recommendation on the Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires for our 2011 Outback 3.6R. Holy poo poo these things must be made from Unicorn glue and black magic, all seasons should not have that much grip on snow and ice.
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Feb 15, 2014 03:39
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:You can just do that? Sweet. The service manual tells you to go from underneath and remove the mud guards or whatever from the wheelarch. Well, that's how I found out. My mechanic put the car on the lift and drove it to find out definitively. Even the smallest cut made the loudest noise in my car. Wait, are we still talking about transfer case bearings?
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Feb 15, 2014 04:04
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Yakattak posted:Well, that's how I found out. My mechanic put the car on the lift and drove it to find out definitively. Even the smallest cut made the loudest noise in my car. Wait, are we still talking about transfer case bearings? Fog lights too now  No noise when I clutched in on the way to work, yay I'm alg.
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Feb 15, 2014 07:59
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Fog lights too now Yeah. You would know. My car whined like a dog. I didn't notice it until a song changed. I'm very attuned to the sounds my car makes, so I know the normal whines versus the abnormal ones.
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Feb 15, 2014 12:43
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Yeah the only abnormal noise is apparently my clutch getting old and poo poo according to people I've asked.
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Feb 15, 2014 12:57
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My RA has no soundproofing, thin glass, and currently winter tires and I can barely hear myself think inside of it with no music on or anything.
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Feb 15, 2014 13:35
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Yeah the list of poo poo that rattles and squeaks on my car at 190k miles and 16 years is pretty long. It's more listening for new noises at this point.
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Feb 15, 2014 13:46
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Saw a new STI at the Pittsburgh auto show yesterday and I do admit it looks really nice in person. It almost made me forget about the ancient lump under the hood...almost. Then it just made me depressed.
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Feb 16, 2014 18:21
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So I've decided that I'm getting another car, mainly for winter. I've been driving a miata for the last few years and I'm tired of dealing with a bucket + 6 point in a daily. So, I'm looking at 00+ imprezza, outback, and legacies. I'd prefer to stick with an imprezza, as I don't need the extra room of the legacy, but I'm open to it if the right one pops up. It's going to be a daily driver so the miata can become the summer toy. I know I need to watch the head gaskets on the NA 2.5, but are there other major problem areas? I'm in Ontario with about 3K to spend. I know I should be looking for timing belt receipts on anything with more than ~160k km's, and I'm going to find something with a safety inspection (which includes wheel bearings & ball joints) & valid emissions test (which would flag knock / o2 sensors / exhaust issues). e: Open to 5spd foresters too. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Feb 16, 2014 |
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Feb 16, 2014 20:03
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When you do a test drive be sure to do 5-10 minutes of 45mph or more and then take it to a parking lot and make tight circles, listening for any clunking or binding in the driveline. If you detect any, run.
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Feb 16, 2014 20:21
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Terrible Robot posted:When you do a test drive be sure to do 5-10 minutes of 45mph or more and then take it to a parking lot and make tight circles, listening for any clunking or binding in the driveline. If you detect any, run. What's this looking for? Problems with the center differential?
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Feb 16, 2014 20:41
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TrueChaos posted:What's this looking for? Problems with the center differential? That or the previous owner added a clutch type front or rear diff. edit: They didn't, not on an na.
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Feb 16, 2014 21:01
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TrueChaos posted:What's this looking for? Problems with the center differential? Yup. There was a pretty in depth discussion about it a page back. Basically if the PO didn't change all 4 tires at the same time or didn't rotate them every oil change or so then the VC has probably cooked itself to death, which means $$$.
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Feb 16, 2014 21:01
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I have a quickish question: I'm replacing the cam seals (and doing the timing belt and water pump while I'm in there) on my 1997 Subaru Outback Legacy 2.5 DOHC wagon. I accidentally purchased this timing belt kit instead. It looks like (so far, I haven't received the kit in the mail yet) the only difference between the two years on the DOHC engine is the tensioner, because I have a tensioner like this kit has. If I decide to reuse my old tensioner, do I need to send the kit I ordered back? Or is there something else different between the two? Here's a photo-log of what I've done so far. Sorry about the picture quality, Galaxy SII. Also I think my power steering pump is leaking, as the center cover right below it has a dirty spot and the plastic has expanded and been eaten away by the harmonic balancer where it was dirty. The sad thing is that the timing belt in there still has all of the markings on it, so it's probably not that old. Besides the oil fouling, it looks near new. I've only had the car 10k.
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Feb 16, 2014 21:33
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Crosspost from stupid questions thread: Two stupid questions as I do my first brake job on the Saabaru: The Stoptech pads I bought come preassembled with all the shims/layers/whatever but didn't come with a new set of clips (the ones on the side that hold the pad in the caliper assembly). OK to reuse the old ones? They also didn't come with any brake grease. Should I grease the old clips (or new ones if I get some)? Anything else I need to grease?
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Feb 16, 2014 21:56
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TrueChaos posted:So I've decided that I'm getting another car, mainly for winter. I've been driving a miata for the last few years and I'm tired of dealing with a bucket + 6 point in a daily. So, I'm looking at 00+ imprezza, outback, and legacies. I'd prefer to stick with an imprezza, as I don't need the extra room of the legacy, but I'm open to it if the right one pops up. It's going to be a daily driver so the miata can become the summer toy. Get an impreza or a pre 00 legacy. Light chassis. The 2.2 and 5mt is a relatively bulletproof combo that makes for a great slut to beat on all the time.
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Feb 16, 2014 22:47
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blk posted:Crosspost from stupid questions thread: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOpb_E9_JXI That same guy has a rear brakes video. If your rear rotors are giving you a hard time, try loosening the parking brake adjusters. You can also use books from elsewhere on the car to push a stuck rotor off.
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Feb 17, 2014 00:49
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Is it common for the banjo bolt/washer on early subaru models to leak? I've got A Whole Bunch Of Fluid which seems to be power steering fluid sitting on top of my timing belt cover and the coolant hose right under the banjo bolt has a spot of dampness there.
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Feb 17, 2014 01:07
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Slow is Fast posted:Get an impreza or a pre 00 legacy. Light chassis. http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2000-subaru-impreza-outback-sport-W0QQAdIdZ566972002 How much of a fool am I? Price is high, but I think I can talk him down. No word on the timing belt yet though, waiting on a few answers...
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Feb 17, 2014 03:42
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TrueChaos posted:http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2000-subaru-impreza-outback-sport-W0QQAdIdZ566972002  Union jack
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Feb 17, 2014 03:50
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Rear quarter panel rust spotted.
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Feb 17, 2014 03:54
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I know, in Ontario none the less. I need to go over it with a magnifying glass as that, the smoked tails, aftermarket intake, and WRX exhaust make me nervous, but I'm at a price range where I can't be too picky and the goal here is a beater that will do 15,000km a year with minimal worry, lots of ski hill and back trips. I'm only looking for 2-4 years out of it. E: pained drums on the rear by the looks of it. Plus a lot of stickers to come off. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Feb 17, 2014 |
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Feb 17, 2014 03:56
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That's not too bad. I'd make an offer on it and clean the tint off the tail lights. 00 has the updated interior which is nice. Try to get it for closer to 2 and make sure the quarter rust hasn't spread to the bumper mounts or the fuel filler neck.
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Feb 17, 2014 03:57
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Just sold my 1991 honda civic I've had for 5 years, and my DGM wrx hatchback should arrive at the dealer this Thursday. I never thought if buy a new car. So god drat excited/nervous.
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Feb 17, 2014 04:03
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That car would be worth 4 in Australia, gently caress me.
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Feb 17, 2014 05:48
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:That's tiny! Surely the tires would get worn unevenly by more than that in daily driving? That's funny hosed. My tires are approx 3 mm apart which is double that but the size of them new are identical. Yeah, I always wondered about that too. I saw a test online once where a guy measured the diameter of the tire while letting out air and found something like -2psi dropped it ~1/32". With all the people out there that don't pay attention to their tire pressure, you'd expect to see a lot more exploding diffs (assuming the test was accurate).
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Feb 17, 2014 19:49
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Terrible Robot posted:Yup. There was a pretty in depth discussion about it a page back. Basically if the PO didn't change all 4 tires at the same time or didn't rotate them every oil change or so then the VC has probably cooked itself to death, which means $$$. poo poo, I put on a used set of snows this winter that had some variety: One at 6/32, two at 8/32, and one at 9/32. I think the matched set is on the left and the mismatched on the right (unidirectional tires). I've put a few thousand miles on them so far, including lots of 70mph+ highway. Is this bad enough to warrant throwing the more evenly worn all seasons back on? ----- What I actually came here to ask is if anyone can recommend an external antenna for a '06 outback. The in window one has been getting shittier and shittier. I found broken traces tonight and reconnected them with copper strands and silver laced epoxy, but I'm not too hopeful. Is there a decent external antenna that I can install instead?
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Feb 18, 2014 05:37
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Hillridge posted:What I actually came here to ask is if anyone can recommend an external antenna for a '06 outback. The in window one has been getting shittier and shittier. I found broken traces tonight and reconnected them with copper strands and silver laced epoxy, but I'm not too hopeful. Is there a decent external antenna that I can install instead? Junkyard run and grab an actual antenna from a different car (doesn't have to be another Subaru even,) and patch it into the harness? Might have to be creative with mounting it but that would be the only issue.
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Feb 18, 2014 06:27
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Hillridge posted:Is this bad enough to warrant throwing the more evenly worn all seasons back on? Yes.
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Feb 18, 2014 12:09
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