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I went as far as a brand new pan on my last one. Eventually gave up. Engine mounts bolting through the oil pan is the worst design ever. The twins aren't super convenient to service either.
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Jan 26, 2014 20:27
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parid posted:Engine mounts bolting through the oil pan is the worst design ever. I have a hard time imagining this, that's just crazy talk.
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Jan 27, 2014 00:32
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I looked at the S4 Avant and... I liked it. They just did the timing belt/waterpump and it's a one owner. The only things I did not like was the obvious respray on the front bumper, ding on the driver door, and crappy kenwood deck. Most the offers were coming from the east coast and around the $11.5k- $10.5k range- the sales guy was one of the nicest I have dealt with, and it sounds like $11k would take it. After doing some reading, it seems KBB does not apply well to these, just like FD's. I'm going to think about it.
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Jan 27, 2014 01:51
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leica posted:I have a hard time imagining this, that's just crazy talk. They did it on the FCs as well. Made for an interesting oil pan job.
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Jan 27, 2014 02:24
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I'm a fan of Rob's pans @ Pineapple Racing that use a o-ring, I just need to drop the $ and grab one the next time I see him.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:48
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the spyder posted:I looked at the S4 Avant and... I liked it. They just did the timing belt/waterpump and it's a one owner. The only things I did not like was the obvious respray on the front bumper, ding on the driver door, and crappy kenwood deck. Most the offers were coming from the east coast and around the $11.5k- $10.5k range- the sales guy was one of the nicest I have dealt with, and it sounds like $11k would take it. After doing some reading, it seems KBB does not apply well to these, just like FD's. I'm going to think about it. I think the turbos in the 2.7Ts like to let go around the 100k mile mark or somewhere thereabouts. Most people I have bumped into that own or owned one have replaced them at least once. Still a fun car. You have mentioned an A3 a few times and while it is also a fun car, it is drat small once you start putting people/kids/stuff into it. My wife and I thought it would be just fine for when we had our first kid, and it took only a week for both of us to realize we needed something bigger for the family. The TDI sportwagon was at the top of the list, but in the end we bought a new Outback. It ticks all the boxes of big, comfortable, AWD, inexpensive to keep up, not exactly exciting. She likes it though and can't drive a manual anyway. I've tried numerous times to teach her. We would have kept the A3 for me to drive, but I couldn't stomach not having a manual. The DSG was nice, but I just declared mutiny on that one. If you go with an A4 wagon, well anything with the 2.0t VAG motor, try and pick up the newer version of it with a timing chain and reliable HPFP cam follower design\no oil burning issues. B8 chassis got them, and all the VW cars from 2009 on pretty much. You would want to check though. I would say get a WRX, but then I'm biased because I have one and it really only can hold a stroller in the back before you are stacking purchases in the floor of the backseat. I just pick the kid up from daycare though.
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Jan 27, 2014 14:37
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Thanks for the reply. I've decided against the S4. I love it, I love the color, but I can't justify the asking price/condition it's in. I've narrowed my search quite a bit and settled on two different cars to test drive: 1) 2011 Audi A3 TDI- I honestly just prefer the looks better then the Sportswagen. Dealer. 2) 2012 Sportswagen TDI - Has everything, 20k less miles than the A3, and more room. Private party. Both are $20k, auto trans, and one- owner. I started to do the math and over a six year period, the difference between buying a 20mpg Subaru Legacy GT and a 35mpg TDI is only $3k after maintenance, gas, and insurance. I would rather have the newer car for the same cost of operating a older car. I just have to remember I'm buying a commuter that will spend 5 days a week traveling 40 miles round trip each day. 10,600 miles just in commuting. I've decided to keep driving our 4x4 truck until it dies and use that for mountain trips/coast trips where I would want 4x4. A good set of tires and some basic maintenance should be all it needs for another 40k.
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Jan 28, 2014 07:04
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After three CL flakes, I'm just going to drive my truck for a bit, haha. I forgot how much I hated CL.
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Jan 31, 2014 21:18
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the spyder posted:After three CL flakes, I'm just going to drive my truck for a bit, haha. I forgot how much I hated CL. CL is such a weird place. I've met some of the nicest random people, but also interacted with some of the biggest assholes. I once got so pissed off at someone bugging me about something I was trying to sell that I told him I would rather destroy it out of spite towards him than let him own it 
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Feb 1, 2014 05:34
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Update time: I had to reschedule picking up the lifts :rage: due to weather. It's on for next weekend though. I got a random hair up my rear end and made my own 14-3/12-3/10-3 SJOOW/SOOW extension cords for fun. Don't ever do this.    I bought a full set of USA made deal-blow hammers for no good reason.  Oh and Amazon had Kant-twist clamps on sale! I've always wanted a set. Between these, the hammers, and the custom cords, I'm broke, haha.  Last weekend we did get some shop work done- 3/4 windows installed!          And then we got hit by the snowpocolypse here in Oregon. 8" + freezing rain. Awesome.   In other news, the hunt for a new car continues @14mpg (thanks truck!) and I got a ton of small things done around the shop yesterday- freezing my rear end off was worth getting out of the house for a few hours.
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Feb 10, 2014 05:40
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Oh and I really, really need to get the sheathing finished nailed and wrapped in house wrap.
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Feb 10, 2014 06:02
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Adorable little Ninja 250 spotted 
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Feb 10, 2014 06:32
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the spyder posted:I'm a fan of Rob's pans @ Pineapple Racing that use a o-ring, I just need to drop the $ and grab one the next time I see him. I thought about this today at work, and some 1775 b2 aircraft fuel tank sealant would be perfect for this job since its flexible, temperature resistant on both sides of zero degrees centigrade and won't get eaten by petrochemicals. Its made by Ppg and has to remain frozen until usage, though. 2 hours to set and forget. Its possible to use the same material to seal up the housings as well.
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Feb 11, 2014 02:10
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Guess what I happen to have? Haha. My old work used to make fuel doors for the F22/F35 and we had to use that sealant on the captive nuts. When it expired they let us take some of it home. Awesome stuff. Thought I would never want to try and remove the pan again. lol.
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Feb 11, 2014 02:21
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The stuff is near indestructible. you'll never have an oil leak again, I'll be surprised if you do. Idea: next build use wax to stuff up the coolant passages and use 870 c48 between the gaskets and the housings. Let dry for 2 days after cleaning up the squeeze out after assembly and use hot water to clear out the passages. 1775B 1/2 on the seams and let set for another day then pressure test. Don't do this with good parts obviously for the first experiment.
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Feb 11, 2014 02:57
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the spyder posted:Guess what I happen to have? Haha. My old work used to make fuel doors for the F22/F35 and we had to use that sealant on the captive nuts. When it expired they let us take some of it home. Awesome stuff. Thought I would never want to try and remove the pan again. lol. Have you ever tried Hylomar? Works good for stopping CAS leaks, I dunno about an oil pan though 
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Feb 11, 2014 06:34
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Lift acquired!
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Feb 16, 2014 17:38
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Rotary lift for rotary cars? That's excellent.
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Feb 17, 2014 02:47
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Super jealous. Really excited for posts regarding outfitting this thing with storage.
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Feb 17, 2014 02:52
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I'm curious about the mounting. I've often wondered how/why two-post lifts actually stayed in place. The torque where it meets the floor must be quite high. (So, so jealous...)
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Feb 17, 2014 11:29
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bolind posted:I'm curious about the mounting. I've often wondered how/why two-post lifts actually stayed in place. The torque where it meets the floor must be quite high. Since you're lifting right around the middle of the car, the torque where it meets the floor isn't really that high, due to the balance.
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Feb 17, 2014 11:52
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True, if you're talking about fore/aft. I'm thinking about the forces that try to make the two posts tip towards each other, perpendicular to the length of the car.
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Feb 17, 2014 17:59
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They have support in that direction too: Also they are pretty heavy and bolted to the floor.
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Feb 17, 2014 19:32
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And they're usually not a whole lot wider than the car they're lifting, so most of the force goes downwards.
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Feb 17, 2014 20:54
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How do you deal with mounting them to the floor and the under floor heating tubes?
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Feb 17, 2014 21:30
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Lightbulb Out posted:How do you deal with mounting them to the floor and the under floor heating tubes? Good planning the spyder posted:Busy weekend= heated floors installed. Rebar was loosely laid out.
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Feb 17, 2014 21:33
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Dumb question. What software did you use (if any) to do the radiant tubing routing? Every software package I've found fits one (or more) of these categories: * fundamentally broken/horribly written by an engineer who might be great at radiant design, but is abysmal at programming * holds the design files hostage until I buy materials from the company that wrote the software for an exorbitant rate (one company wanted me to spend something like $14k on PEX and routed floor panels alone. For ~1000sf.) * extremely expensive ($900 and up. Fine if you're doing this for a living, not so great if you're doing a single house and maybe a shop and another house in the future.) * completely nonfunctional. Some of the programs I found fit 3 of these!
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Feb 17, 2014 22:09
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Galler posted:They have support in that direction too: You mean the bars across the top? Those are rarely for any kind of support. 99% of the time those are just for easy routing of hydraulic lines and power cables.
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Feb 18, 2014 02:18
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Oh. The ones I've seen up close looked too beefy to just be a glorified cable tray but I've got no experience with them so I'll take your word for it.
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Feb 18, 2014 03:00
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Yeah they are usually just some thin gauge steel C-channel used for cable/hose routing and sometimes a height sensor to prevent you from crashing a customers vehicle into the ceiling, but I've used plenty of lifts without the top bar. With those generally everything is routed through a channel in the concrete with steel plates laid over top.
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Feb 18, 2014 03:16
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That's far enough up that the vertical posts act as a hell of a lever arm. You could probably keep them from tipping towards each other with a 2x4 at that height. So yes, it is for support... Figure the lever arm from each side post to the pads the vehicle sits on are ~2 feet long when picking up a "normal" vehicle. Figure the vehicle weighs 2500lbs. Assume you have to handle full weight with the right at the ground, and the posts are 10 feet tall. If you make these assumptions, and say that the pivot point for your system is the center of each post's mounting pad, you've got a 1250lb weight pushing at 90 degrees to a 2 foot lever arm, so 2500 foot pounds at the pivot point. The 10 foot vertical post, though, means you only have to push sideways with 250 pounds of force to keep the vertical posts from tipping inward and have zero torque at the mounting pad. A reasonably straight broomstick will do that job. But without the spreader bar between the tops of the vertical posts, you're going to have some issues with the mounting pads most likely. Might it handle it without the top crossbar? Possibly, but I wouldn't trust concrete with that, unless there was a lot of rebar in it per the lift manufacturers instructions. Especially when it's so easy to design to make it a non-issue by putting a fairly tame structural member between the tops of the two posts. Concrete is really lovely in tension, its main strength is being inexpensive and beastly strong in compression. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 03:19
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If that's what you think, then this product must give you nightmares https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz5Y34fUjlA
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Feb 18, 2014 04:16
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Those are fine, because the outriggers with the casters on them put the load within the footprint of the lift. If they were comparable to a two post lift without a crossbar, all the wheels would be directly under the post instead of having the two legs that stick out, and the thing would tip right over.
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Feb 18, 2014 04:34
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Plenty of two post lifts have nothing between the tops of the columns. If there's a section there, it's probably for chain/wires/hydraulic lines. If not, they are run either under a small panel resting on the ground, between the posts, or, for a more involved installation they're embedded in the floor. I know that the 8-12 concrete anchors in the base of each post is enough to withstand the torque generated, I'm just puzzled because it seems counter-intuitive. The dynamic loads must be in 1000kg + range, and that's before doing a safety multiplier.
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Feb 18, 2014 14:49
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kastein posted:Dumb question. What software did you use (if any) to do the radiant tubing routing? Every software package I've found fits one (or more) of these categories: When we ordered our kit from the Blue Ridge Company, they created a drawing based on a sketchup model of the floorplan. I did not interact with the software- but I did read about people who found the same things you did. I also read about quite a few people who never used software and based their design off some of the basic principals- balanced run length, edge of slab placement, ect. Ours is 100% overkill- literally twice as much tubing as is needed per the manufacture. Oh well .
the spyder fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 21:15
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My stupid purchase of the week showed up:    It's more so a replacement for my Miller I let a friend borrow over three years ago... (He gave me $$$ after two years of pestering him- no I do not loan out tools anymore, haha.)
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Feb 21, 2014 19:32
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I.lack.motivation. It's been a hellish past few weeks and it's not going to clear up probably until the end of this month. I've been putting in way to much time @ work, my old company is bribing me to help move their infrastructure to a new building they bought, and I have more car projects then I can take in. All of this and I still need to nail and house wrap the rest of the shop so I can pass my framing inspection. I need a vacation. And a new car. I took Friday off and with a friend got 1/4 of the nailing/wrap done.  When we were done for the day, we measured out the lift pad locations and cut some templates out. I was hoping to put this up next weekend, but I don't know if that will happen.  Saturday afternoon I helped my neighbor install the lift he bought from me.  And then the curse of the Mini Cooper returned. God drat it. Coolant reservoir cracked.  So I pulled the FD out and cleaned it up. I forgot how much I LOATHE Portland roads. If you're wondering where the wing went, I bought a used OEM spoiler to replace my fiberglass ebay special. I started to install it and then realized I need to drill two more holes, so for now I'm rocking it wing-less.  This is more DIY related- but the Accu link belts harbor freight sells are pretty awesome.   The black FD in the pictures is going to be in my nightmares this week. It came back for some simple things, the owner was not happy with how his local shop installed the fuel system. I started to tear in to it yesterday and god.drat.it. Someone T'd the map sensor line for a boost controller, mounted a HKS twin power with velcro, let AN lines rub through the TPS sensor plug wires, did not mount the fuel pressure regulator, and stripped out two bolts on the oil pan trying to "fix" a leak. It's the last part that kills me- the motor pretty much has to come out to fix it.  We'll see how damaged my liver is by the end of this week. the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Mar 3, 2014 |
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Mar 3, 2014 19:55
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the spyder posted:And then the curse of the Mini Cooper returned. God drat it. Coolant reservoir cracked. I would say "British Engineering, something, something, something" But this really belongs in the BMW thread, as its mostly German engineering anyways, "GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM!"
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Mar 4, 2014 00:45
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the spyder posted:And then the curse of the Mini Cooper returned. God drat it. Coolant reservoir cracked. This is why I bought an aluminum coolant tank
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Mar 4, 2014 02:17
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I would say "British Engineering, something, something, something" Yes that is most definitely a german cooling part right there. Bonus points if that isn't even under pressure during operation.
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Mar 4, 2014 07:09
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