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Snowdens Secret posted:No, I agree the current MS3 looks silly inside and out. It does. However, the trim pieces are easily replaced with the regular ones from any other Mazda3 of that generation. The only problem are those garish seats... But you're sitting in them and driving the car, not staring at the seats, right?
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Feb 14, 2014 20:04
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I test drove and fell in love with a 2010 S4 Prestige with the 6 speed, 40k miles. It's had one owner who maintained it at a dealer a few miles away. Are there any reasons I should run away from this thing, or am I safe to indulge myself? Is there anything to look out for on the B8s? I'm coming from a WRX and need something a little more grown up.
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Feb 15, 2014 17:18
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I assume it's a CPO?
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Feb 15, 2014 19:35
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It's on a Chrysler dealer's lot; they got it as a trade-in. That said, it's got a bit of the factory warranty left, and I've considered buying an extended warranty. I've never owned a VW/Audi or followed the brands, and I think my only apprehension comes from a (possibly undeserved?) stereotype of poor reliability.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:11
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Prior to 2010 or 2011 reliability was worse. CR doesn't have any reliability data on the 2010 S4. If you want any info from Consumer Reports let me know How does the KBB compare to their price?
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Feb 15, 2014 21:00
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Anything that CR might say about the S4 or Audi in particular would be helpful; I don't really know what info CR even has. The motortrend/C&D-type sites all have positive things to say of course. I know these aren't cheap to maintain, I just want to make sure I'm not in for a stream of constant headaches. A buddy of mine has a 2007 and his advice was that it's not too bad, but that when/if major equipment goes south, it'll be $1000+. I had a few older BMWs awhile back, so I'm familiar with the German car "tax." The dealer has it listed for $35k USD, and they claim to price their used cars carmax-style so they don't negotiate. If I plug in all the options, KBB says 34.5k, so that seems close enough to me, especially for a clean, one-owner vehicle.
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Feb 15, 2014 22:11
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They don't have much, but a few pages ago I posted the same chart for the A4, so I would check that one as well. It tends to get much better in the more recent years.
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Feb 15, 2014 23:17
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I received and installed my P3cars vent gauge today and I am very impressed.  The neighborhood cat helped me install it.  Also now for the first time I actually have something that shows boost pressures and whoa does the turbo on a TDI spool up quickly.
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Feb 16, 2014 01:05
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I changed out a dead headlight bulb the other day, and found that at some point the screw-on access cover must have gotten loose and fallen off - I looked around with a flashlight, but it seems to be long gone. Anyone know where I can pick up a cheap replacement?
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Feb 16, 2014 23:42
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Any of you guys use fuel additives you'd recommend? I've been using BG Supercharge II but wanted to see if you guys used anything different.
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Feb 17, 2014 00:53
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VERTiG0 posted:It does. However, the trim pieces are easily replaced with the regular ones from any other Mazda3 of that generation. The only problem are those garish seats... But you're sitting in them and driving the car, not staring at the seats, right? The pattern itself is a matter of taste, and the lights in the previously posted picture certainly make it stand out, but in anything other than bright sunlight it doesn't catch the eye so much. Which is the most I can say in it's defense, I guess.
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Feb 17, 2014 01:54
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Today I'll be paying my VW mechanic $650 AUD (let's say around $450 US) to replace my timing belt, labor included. How badly am I being screwed? Is this something I could have done myself with no experience, or is it as complicated as the price suggests? EDIT: '04 Mk4 Golf.
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Feb 17, 2014 02:55
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Hoopy Frood posted:Today I'll be paying my VW mechanic $650 AUD (let's say around $450 US) to replace my timing belt, labor included. How badly am I being screwed? Is this something I could have done myself with no experience, or is it as complicated as the price suggests? I'm not well versed with how complicated the MK4 timing belt replacement is but that seems about in line with most cars. Replacing the timing belt on my Subaru cost me about $200+ USD in parts and took me a few hours. That quote seems fine assuming they're replacing everything that needs replacing.
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Feb 17, 2014 03:07
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I'm going to repair and powdercoat my winter wheels this summer, and I wonder if any of you has a suggestion when it comes to colour? Maybe some kind of light gunmetal grey? I really like white wheels, but who has the time to keep them clean? Pic of the wheels: 
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Feb 17, 2014 11:05
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Hoopy Frood posted:Today I'll be paying my VW mechanic $650 AUD (let's say around $450 US) to replace my timing belt, labor included. How badly am I being screwed? Is this something I could have done myself with no experience, or is it as complicated as the price suggests? Make sure they're doing the water pump too.
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Feb 17, 2014 14:41
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Hoopy Frood posted:Today I'll be paying my VW mechanic $650 AUD (let's say around $450 US) to replace my timing belt, labor included. How badly am I being screwed? Is this something I could have done myself with no experience, or is it as complicated as the price suggests? That's a pretty good deal. You're not getting screwed.
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Feb 17, 2014 23:57
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actionjackson posted:Prior to 2010 or 2011 reliability was worse. CR doesn't have any reliability data on the 2010 S4. Is there any info on the 1998 A3? Failing that, A3s in general would be nice. Thanks.
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Feb 18, 2014 14:06
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Hoopy Frood posted:Today I'll be paying my VW mechanic $650 AUD (let's say around $450 US) to replace my timing belt, labor included. How badly am I being screwed? Is this something I could have done myself with no experience, or is it as complicated as the price suggests? That sounds about right if they are doing the waterpump and tensioners and all that. When my waterpump let loose under warranty it cost me 300ish to have them go ahead and do the timing belt and everything else while they were in there.
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Feb 18, 2014 16:26
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I have a question that I hope someone might be able to give me some ideas about. Earlier this winter when I was making a very slow left turn, I heard a horrible screeching sound after I turned that sounded like I was dragging a piece of thin sheet metal under my car (2011 audi a4) It stopped when I stopped, and went away after I went a bit farther. I checked, and there was nothing under the car, in any of the wheel wells etc. I drove it around the next day and it was fine, couldn't reproduce it. Sometime after that it happened again when i was making a left at an intersection, again went away after I had gone a short distance. I told my dealership about it when I went in to get my winter tires put on and they said they couldn't find anything wrong. I made a trip down to BC from AB and all was fine. Then a couple of weeks ago it happened again as I was just getting home and pulling into my parking space (a left turn, slow speed) It only happens on left turns, only makes the sound when I'm moving, apparently random, and the car otherwise drives fine. The only thing that i can think of that might have caused it is that at the beginning of winter when i was still on my summer tires I slid into a curb with my rear tire on the passenger side very gently. It lightly scuffed the wheel but it was not a very hard impact. Any ideas what could possibly cause this?
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Feb 18, 2014 16:57
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Serpent Fag posted:Is there any info on the 1998 A3? Failing that, A3s in general would be nice. Thanks. They only have info for the 2006, presumably because the vehicle only comes out every few years. I was considering a 2013 A3 diesel hatch but passed because it didn't have quattro. quote:Audi A3
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Feb 18, 2014 17:27
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asmallrabbit posted:It only happens on left turns, only makes the sound when I'm moving, apparently random, and the car otherwise drives fine. The only thing that i can think of that might have caused it is that at the beginning of winter when i was still on my summer tires I slid into a curb with my rear tire on the passenger side very gently. It lightly scuffed the wheel but it was not a very hard impact. Any ideas what could possibly cause this? Is it while moving slowly and making fairly sharp turns? I feel like I had something like that happen, and it ended up being an axle making the noise (which didn't cost that much for parts or labor).
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Feb 20, 2014 01:58
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Only happens when moving, when it happens. If I stop it stops until i start moving again. Only happens after a left turn too.
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Feb 20, 2014 21:22
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The wife's passat wagon exhibits a similar symptom; all of the cv boots are torn in the front so I've been waiting until it's been warmer to attempt that job.
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Feb 20, 2014 21:58
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2003 2L Jetta. Doing the engine bay motor mounts- will I need to jack the motor up much or just hold it in its normal resting position? I know some cars you need to lift the motor up to get new mounts on. Thanks in advance.
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Feb 20, 2014 23:18
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You can just use a jack or engine hanger to hold the engine in place, be careful of the aluminum oil pan, the passenger side is easy but the driver side is harder, I think you have to take out the airbox and move to wire loom for the engine harness to get to the hidden third bolt for that mount. Also about those passat cv boots, if all 4 are really torn just save yourself some time and get refurb axles instead.
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Feb 21, 2014 16:58
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Who the gently caress says Hey guys, lets throw the battery under the drivers seat! Turning a 15 minute job into a one that starts with Step 1: Remove drivers seat. It's not like they were pressed for space in the engine compartment.
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Feb 21, 2014 18:17
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As a side note for anyone considering getting a P3 gauge who is cold-blooded and likes to run the heater a bunch: you may want to install the control computer in the kickpanel instead of the fuse compartment. Enough heat seeps into the fuse area from the vent right next to it that the display controller can malfunction.lightpole posted:Who the gently caress says Hey guys, lets throw the battery under the drivers seat! Turning a 15 minute job into a one that starts with Step 1: Remove drivers seat. It's not like they were pressed for space in the engine compartment. German engineering! Why make it simple when complex will do?
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Feb 23, 2014 18:20
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lightpole posted:Who the gently caress says Hey guys, lets throw the battery under the drivers seat! Turning a 15 minute job into a one that starts with Step 1: Remove drivers seat. It's not like they were pressed for space in the engine compartment. You don't need to remove the whole seat. The seat is on a hinge, you only need to remove the front 2 XZN10 bolts and the seat folds back. This is the proper way to replace a battery on a Q7. http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-q7-66/removing-battery-q7-121477/#post1394163
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Feb 23, 2014 20:43
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Brain Issues posted:You don't need to remove the whole seat. The seat is on a hinge, you only need to remove the front 2 XZN10 bolts and the seat folds back. This is the proper way to replace a battery on a Q7. http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-q7-66/removing-battery-q7-121477/#post1394163 Point still stands. Is there a reason they did that, Im really curious now.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:13
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lightpole posted:Point still stands. Is there a reason they did that, Im really curious now.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:24
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lightpole posted:Point still stands. Is there a reason they did that, Im really curious now. If it was a BMW I'd say to get 50/50 weight distribution but I don't know Audi well enough to know if they sperg about that as much.
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Feb 24, 2014 00:05
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8ender posted:If it was a BMW I'd say to get 50/50 weight distribution but I don't know Audi well enough to know if they sperg about that as much. mk1 v6 TTs got the battery in the trunk, even though they left the battery holder intact under the hood.
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Feb 24, 2014 00:18
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Along with the battery thing, lets heat the wiper fluid nozzles but not put heat trace on the lines. This is even dumber, I can handle the battery. Also, if there are any Audi engineers reading, I would love it if wiper blades sat in some type of heated cradle to prevent them from freezing. For all the attention to detail and tiny crap the luxury car makers are adding, and especially for Audi since they make a point of the ability to handle snow or whatever, those two things are absolutely shameful. There's no reason I should be having to work to see the road in adverse weather conditions. It just has to keep the blades above 32, add in a tiny heated pad or some type of dock, something to keep it warm when I am not using them so ice doesn't build up. Also, seriously, heat trace is cheap. There's no excuse.
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Feb 24, 2014 04:03
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lightpole posted:It just has to keep the blades above 32, add in a tiny heated pad or some type of dock, something to keep it warm when I am not using them so ice doesn't build up. Also, seriously, heat trace is cheap. There's no excuse. Heated windshields are magical. I don't know who else you can get them from other than Land Rover but dammit they work great.
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Feb 24, 2014 04:19
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I don't really care about the windshield, just as long as the blades don't freeze is all I care about. Once you get some ice on them their effectiveness drops precipitously.
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Feb 24, 2014 04:41
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lightpole posted:I don't really care about the windshield, just as long as the blades don't freeze is all I care about. Once you get some ice on them their effectiveness drops precipitously. My point was that a heated windshield pretty much eliminates that issue along with others (like clearing it before the car heats up and/or keeping it clear without cranking the heat). It not only keeps the blades clear of ice, but eliminates the "ice dam" that often builds up when your running wipers as it's snowing or sleeting. I would murder someone for a heated windshield in my plow truck for exactly these reasons. Or figure out how to fit and push an 8 foot plow to a Discovery 2 without it overheating every 15 minutes. The latter is probably the easier path (yes still likely impossible).
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Feb 24, 2014 04:56
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Honestly I'm amazed we're still using wiper blades. They've got to be the one piece of car equipment that has evolved the least since their invention. I know there are things like mercedes' extending monoblade but it's the same concept.
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Feb 24, 2014 05:28
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Motronic posted:My point was that a heated windshield pretty much eliminates that issue along with others (like clearing it before the car heats up and/or keeping it clear without cranking the heat). It not only keeps the blades clear of ice, but eliminates the "ice dam" that often builds up when your running wipers as it's snowing or sleeting. Yeah, sorry, I was just looking for a cheap option but if the easiest way is to heat the whole thing Im all for it. For all the propaganda they've sent bragging about all the random little poo poo they do to make driving safer Im pretty shocked at some of the issues they did not think about.
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Feb 24, 2014 10:10
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VelociBacon posted:Honestly I'm amazed we're still using wiper blades. They've got to be the one piece of car equipment that has evolved the least since their invention. I know there are things like mercedes' extending monoblade but it's the same concept. McLaren is trying to make an ultrasonic force field.... http://www.gizmag.com/mclaren-ultrasonic-windshield-wiper-washer/30205/
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Feb 24, 2014 11:27
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I live in Minnesota - while there isn't much snow on the road, it has been quite icy/slippery lately. Should I turn off my ESP in these conditions?
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Feb 24, 2014 |
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Feb 24, 2014 19:07
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