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Blistex posted:Decimal places. Decimal inches work fine. 
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Feb 25, 2014 05:44
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You know our measurement system is in denial when engineering calculations are done in kilopounds.
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Feb 25, 2014 14:32
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Super Waffle posted:You know our measurement system is in denial when engineering calculations are done in kilopounds. I was gonna post "what you mean a kip?" kinda sarcastically but then I looked it up and realized I was a moron 'cause kip literally stands for kilo pounds. :mind blown: I've used kips in calcs for years and never realized that.
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Feb 25, 2014 15:00
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1 liter of water = 1 kilogram which is pretty awesome when dealing with water storage and structural engineering. A little easier to remember than 1 gallon = 8.33 pounds. Basically, metric is so easy that even ridiculous conversions which are totally useless are easy for even a 10 year old to do in their head. Teacher: "How many millimeters in two point five kilometers?" Billy: "Two million, five hundred thousand!" The fact that the US is still kicking around Fahrenheit is also a testament to how behind the times they are, or how much clout the old fogies have. Water freezing and boiling at 32 and 212 respectively? Hell in the rest of the world it happens at 0 and 100 degrees! In all honesty, even Canada is never going to totally rid themselves of the imperial system as long as there is a construction industry.
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Feb 25, 2014 15:06
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The best bit is that America notionally follows the metric system. It's just that an entire nation went "Nah, fuckit, it's too difficult." and they kept using the British system, only they kept the old units and definitions, instead of the ones updated in the 1800s. It's ok though. It's not like any space ships have crashed because of it.
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Feb 26, 2014 02:12
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Frogmanv2 posted:The best bit is that America notionally follows the metric system. It's just that an entire nation went "Nah, fuckit, it's too difficult." and they kept using the British system, only they kept the old units and definitions, instead of the ones updated in the 1800s. People who need to use metric use it, people who don't don't have to. Same with SI, cgs, and whatever other measuring systems are in use out there. It's not really a huge deal to use several different systems in different contexts. 
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Feb 26, 2014 02:22
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Only took me a month, but I finished putting together the twin screw vise I got for my birthday. Clamps nice and tight, much better than having to clamp everything using quick clamps. I also took the time this weekend to rearrange my shop, I'm never going to park a car in this garage so I figured I'd utilize the space better. Pulled all my stationary tools off the walls and putthem in the centre. I'm going to put my new bench (when I build it) behind the lathe. Then I'll be able to keep my drill press, bench grinder, sander and scroll saw on my current bench without having to shift them around.  Easy access to my wood storage, canoe and a few half finished paddles. 
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Feb 26, 2014 02:26
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I'm glad to see I'm not the only one using a Workmate as a stand for a planer. I've got mine held on with a couple of c-clamps.
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Feb 26, 2014 04:57
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Frogmanv2 posted:The best bit is that America notionally follows the metric system. It's just that an entire nation went "Nah, fuckit, it's too difficult." and they kept using the British system, only they kept the old units and definitions, instead of the ones updated in the 1800s. I honestly hate the English system and have been frustrated a couple times by not easily being able to find rulers, squares etc with with metric. Sure I can more easily estimate distances in inches but in the shop I'm not trying to estimate, I'm trying measure things accurately or often, divide something in half etc. Metric is just a ton easier for that.
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Feb 26, 2014 05:27
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asdf32 posted:or often, divide something in half etc. Metric is just a ton easier for that. 1cm / 2 = 5mm, 5mm / 2 = 2.5mm, 2.5mm / 2 = 1.25mm, 1.25mm / 2 = 0.625mm, 0.625mm / 2 = 0.3125mm 1" / 2 = 1/2", 1/2" / 2 = 1/4", 1/4" / 2 = 1/8", 1/8" / 2 = 1/16"  
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Feb 26, 2014 05:31
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Bad Munki posted:1cm / 2 = 5mm, 5mm / 2 = 2.5mm, 2.5mm / 2 = 1.25mm, 1.25mm / 2 = 0.625mm, 0.625mm / 2 = 0.3125mm This argument is a lot easier to make when you're cooking, honestly. With carpentry, you're often dealing with weird distances. Or at least, I am. Quick, what's half of 9 5/8"?
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Feb 26, 2014 05:55
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4 1/2" + 5/16" That's literally how I do it in my head.  Really I'm just kidding, I wish we used metric, but halving is one of the few okay things about this system.
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Feb 26, 2014 06:13
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Bad Munki posted:4 1/2" + 5/16" That's exactly how I do it in my head too! A while back there was the talk about bending and I mentioned we're doing some in a class I'm taking. This is ~1/8" veneer over two 1/2" slices of bendy plywood. We glued it up and then used a vaccuum to bend it around the forms. On Monday, we trimmed it to sides and then mortised it (it's the top of a small cabinet).    (tough to see due to lovely pic but it's the form we used)
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Feb 26, 2014 07:05
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Bad Munki posted:4 1/2" + 5/16" Didn't they redefine the inch in terms of metric units? We *are* using the metric system!!  Everyone is right!
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Feb 26, 2014 07:08
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Right tilt vs left tilt saws- outside of the obvious downside of the right tilt when ripping @45 and pressing the cutoff towards the fence- am I missing anything? I have the choice between a free (from my dad) 1950's 10" 3hp Atlas left tilt cabinet saw with 52" besi clone fence or a $400 1993 10" 3hp Delta Unisaw 36-812 right tilt saw with a Unifence.
the spyder fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Feb 26, 2014 |
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Feb 26, 2014 08:17
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Glueing question: I have a bamboo lath and some hickory ready to be joined together (for a laminated bow). So, I've read that hickory is hard to glue. What would you recommend? PVA, 2-component adhesives or hideglue? Drying time is not an issue.
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Feb 26, 2014 11:25
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Did your nail get chipped in the shop?
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Feb 26, 2014 13:13
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JaucheCharly posted:Glueing question: I have a bamboo lath and some hickory ready to be joined together (for a laminated bow). So, I've read that hickory is hard to glue. What would you recommend? PVA, 2-component adhesives or hideglue? Drying time is not an issue. I don't know much about bow making, but I would suspect a pva glue or expoxy would be best. Most UF or UF alternatives cure very hard and would make the bow brittle (At least, that's what I think.) Didn't we have a bow maker in this thread?
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Feb 26, 2014 16:20
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the spyder posted:Right tilt vs left tilt saws- outside of the obvious ripping @45 and pressing the cutoff towards the fence on the left tilt- am I missing anything? I have the choice between a free (from my dad) 1950's 10" 3hp Atlas left tilt cabinet saw with 52" besi clone fence or a $400 10" 3hp Delta Unisaw 36-812 right tilt saw with a Unifence. What is $400 better about the Delta? I was under the impression that left-tilt saws were far more common and generally preferred these days. Also, free.
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Feb 26, 2014 17:13
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I made several bows, but did no glueing with hickory so far (which needs special care with being glued?). Bamboo and maple I did join with epoxy. Plus, I'm working on a magyar hornbow atm. I know a few things about glueing with hideglue, but not so much about modern stuff.
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Feb 26, 2014 17:22
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Stavrogin posted:Did your nail get chipped in the shop? Yeah, but it wasn't a machine, I was moving some heavy 8/4 and my hand slipped. I do joke that my nails are a safety device 'cause if I trail a finger on the jointer, the nail would hit first and save my finger.
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Feb 26, 2014 17:44
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I clarified my post a bit. I'm going to end up with the Delta regardless it seems. Long story: It's coming from the estate of a family friend's late husband. He was a carpenter and passed away rather suddenly several years back, and at the time I thought his "friends" came and cleaned out his tools. Anyways, I was visiting the family friend and mentioned I was getting in to wood working and she asked if I wanted a large table saw. None of the kids are interested in wood working and apparently several boxes of stuff have already accidentally made it to the dump  . The saw's essentially new inside, but it's been sitting in a uninsulated shed for the last… 20 years when it was bought new and has some serious surface rust. It's all there, miter/fence/guard, even a stack of blades and mobile base. It's a 36-812 3HP saw, big Made in USA sticker on the front. Maybe I should just bolt the two back to back, haha.
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Feb 26, 2014 18:50
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the spyder posted:Maybe I should just bolt the two back to back, haha. This is exactly what you should do!
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Feb 26, 2014 19:58
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the spyder posted:Right tilt vs left tilt saws- I have a right tilt and cut on the right side all the time, angles too, it's not as big a deal as people make it out to be; and especially if you have an ambidextrous fence (Bies or clone).
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Feb 27, 2014 04:50
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In non-table saw news, a Delta 6" Jointer 37-195 followed me home last night. My Jet has a broken bell crank and I've been too lazy to replace it. It's a 99 model, still made in USA. The original owner let it sit on his porch for a few months while he remodeled and the table surface rusted pretty bad. The neighbor who bought it referb'd it/put new knives in it and then realized he was buying 99% dimensional lumber. For $150, I can sell the Jet and wait until I come across a 8" to upgrade to later. Plus it matches my table saw, rust and all, haha.  
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Feb 27, 2014 19:27
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So I had no idea these old Craftsman 113 table saws had a following. Ours has always had terrible vibration problems, which is pretty common. I decided to try the Harbor Freight sold Accu-Link belt to see if it would help.   These are awesome. At first I installed it too loose (had to remove two more links) and backwards. Once I swapped it around right, the saw is 10x better. The insert plate still rattles, but that's it. I highly recommend them, but only if you have a 20 or 25% off coupon.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:06
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the spyder posted:So I had no idea these old Craftsman 113 table saws had a following. That's funny because I did the same, installed it backwards then had to remove 2 links. The link belt made a big difference on my Delta. Even without the coupon the HF belt is cheaper than other sources, at least it was when I bought mine. The 113's have a following because they are pretty decent saws for the price (used) and common. One of the better bang for the buck choices.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:46
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Finally had a chance to really test out my twin screw vice. It's life changing having a proper vice and not having to quick clamp everything to my bench. I did some cross-cuts, rip cuts, edge planing a board and chiseling out a mortise. It worked amazing for all those things. Here's a pic of me cutting the mortise(?) for a bridal joint. 
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Mar 8, 2014 17:32
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Congrats on the new vice and it looks like you got a new bench grinder. Finally a warm day so I went to the shop with the intention of making a mallet but two unfinished projects beckoned so I knocked those out. Nothing significant, a new table for my disc sander and part of balance beam for the kid's school project. Then I cut 5" off the bottom of my benchtop router table and holy cow, wish I had done that years ago, so much nicer to use now. Never did get around to the mallet. This is the mallet I want to make, from issue 156 of Wood. Theirs is made from Bolivian rosewood and ash, I have neither so I'm substituting ipe and ? (maybe maple or oak). 
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Mar 9, 2014 03:45
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I think I'd be afraid to work in your shop because most of your tools are nicer than my finished projects.
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Mar 9, 2014 06:37
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kaiger posted:I think I'd be afraid to work in your shop because most of your tools are nicer than my finished projects. You'd laugh if you saw the truth of it because my shop is decrepit, though I do have a few nice tools mostly from swaps. The mallets I've been using for the past decade are yellow pine and getting beat up. My wife told me to quit making furniture except to sell and I don't want to sell furniture, so I end just piddling around on smaller projects. My next project was wood Kant Twist clamps but John Heisz stole my thunder (not really, I'm going to do it anyway). An orrery has been in the back of my mind.
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Mar 9, 2014 08:38
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wormil posted:
I'd really like to club a baby-seal with that beautiful thing. Voting oak instead of maple.
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Mar 9, 2014 19:46
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Sir Cornelius posted:I'd really like to club a baby-seal with that beautiful thing. Voting oak instead of maple. I was leaning oak but all I had was thin pieces, then found a big maple board I had forgotten about and used that, it's drying now. Won't be as pretty but it's going to be heavy and tough. Next up is trying to flatten the ipe without a jointer, wish me luck. edit: not much luck wormil fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Mar 10, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 20:35
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I'm in Minnesota and was talking to a fellow resident about black walnut and he says that all the walnut used for furniture and rifle stocks comes from the south. The walnut from Minnesota is no good because of our short growing season making the growth rings too tight. Has anybody ever heard of anything like this, or is he possibly confusing black walnut with something else? No part of his statement made any sense to me.
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Mar 10, 2014 00:18
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I've never heard that about walnut, I thought it came mostly from OH, PA, etc., area but then I've never thought much about it. Sounds like BS to me. According to Roy Underhill, fast grown wood is more flexible for bending but otherwise I have nothing. edit: typo wormil fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Mar 10, 2014 |
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Mar 10, 2014 01:28
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heya guys so i'm making a new workbench. the top is made of 2x3s oriented vertically, so the workbench is 2.5" thick. It's around 13' long. I can do one of two things to get a flat top. I can put 1/2" ply on top, or I can remove the milled edges. I'd rather not use plywood. How would you go about removing about 1/8" off the top of a 2'x13' surface? I didn't want to saw it off before glueup because I have a tiny table saw and i'd tip over for sure handling 8' lengths and I didn't want to chop them up into manageable lengths because I thought it would be stronger that way.
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Mar 10, 2014 06:09
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Router sled, maybe? Either that, a shitload of time with some handplanes, or break into someone's cabinet shop and use their industrial size planer.
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Mar 10, 2014 06:21
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router sled is doable, but awkward. another option is powered hand planer like so: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1594K-6-5-4-Inch-Planer/dp/B000067S14/ but i've never used one so i dont know how feasible that is.
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Mar 10, 2014 07:00
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rotor posted:heya guys I've sawed off the tops of 2x4's with a table saw, I just got a 14$ roller stand from HF and used that for an outfeed, worked great.
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Mar 10, 2014 07:01
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| # ? May 16, 2024 09:15 |
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i guess the comedy options are: 1) handplanes and like a weeks worth of evenings 2) belt sander 3) just fill in the crevices with wood filler and pretend its flat
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Mar 10, 2014 07:01
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