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reading posted:Quick tomato question, how can I install new programs (specifically the linux program rsync, and unison) on it? Do I have to wget each individual thing and then compile for the local environment, or is there a convenient apt-get repo I can browse through? I tried wget'ing a program and compiling it but it didn't work because tomato is apparently a weird version of linux that wasn't supported. It makes sense to me that there wouldn't be a tomato repo because the architectures its going to be running on are all very different from each other.
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Feb 18, 2014 23:51
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Pudgygiant posted:If they're on the same (as in both getting 192.168.2 IPs) network, your router settings won't affect anything, that's only for network traversal. I'd check your Plex logs and see if anything weird is going on, I have problems with my NAS Plex setup all the drat time. So I got home and once again, I'm not showing any channels on the Plex Roku app. I ran your suggestion, and got this: code:
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Feb 19, 2014 01:15
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jkyuusai posted:You should probably start by reading this: God drat it. Thank you. Well that gives me the excuse to make time to fix this.
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Feb 19, 2014 02:05
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I run the merlin firmware on my Asus RT-N16 btw. Seems to work ok.
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Feb 19, 2014 04:00
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Is this Linksys EA6900 router any good? I searched and didn't find a single mention of it on SA and wasn't sure. I'm looking to ditch my rental modem and add a 5ghz band to my networking and there happens to be a newegg combo deal for this router and a SB6141 for $200.
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Feb 19, 2014 16:40
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It seems like this is also a bit of a tech support thread in addition to a networking recommendation thread, so I'll try my question here. Every 12 hours at 8:32, my internet "blips" off momentarily. It reconnects as fast as it disconnected. I checked the logs on my sb6120 and didn't see anything conclusive there. I have a Netgear WNDR4000 (stock firmware) and can't find much in the way of logs there. Is there a good way I can narrow down my issue?
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Feb 19, 2014 17:34
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Hook up a computer directly to the Motorola instead of the NetGear and see if the same thing happens?
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Feb 19, 2014 17:49
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Shot in the dark here. I have 2 Buffalo WHR-HP-G300N routers running the Buffalo DD-WRT build 19154. The LAN ports are only negotiating at 100Mb. Tried both routers, multiple Cat 5e cables, and 4 different PCs / laptops. I know it negotiated at 1Gb at some point. Anyone have any ideas? Or should I just get two new wireless routers at this point?
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Feb 20, 2014 00:17
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 I had one of those myself and yeah, they're not gig ports.
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Feb 20, 2014 00:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Well then, sorry for the dumb question. I must have been looking at the wrong model and hallucinated it working at some point. Thank you!
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Feb 20, 2014 02:04
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One I've been struggling with for a few days, essentially it's a case of "buy cheap, buy twice" or "buy better, buy once". Applied here, I'm wondering if I buy a $100ish router now (Asus RT-N16 or similar) and then buy again later... OR do I buy a $200ish router (Netgear Nighthawk N7000, Asus RT-AC68U or similar) and hope it lasts the distance. The reason I'm debating this is because my WRT54GL has lasted more than 8 years. With that in mind, I'm actually thinking that buying an expensive router now that lasts a while is the way to go, especially for something thats used every single day. However, this thread has plenty of counterarguments about buying AC gear right this second, and we are talking about a router, not a space shuttle command station. What I'm asking about I suppose is the general consensus on if you should pay more now or pay less now and possibly replace sooner than I'd like?
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Feb 20, 2014 05:35
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Heners_UK posted:What I'm asking about I suppose is the general consensus on if you should pay more now or pay less now and possibly replace sooner than I'd like? I went big. I figure if I was going to spend $100, I may as well drop an extra $100 and get something that's going to be great. I grabbed an RT-N66UU a while back, threw Tomato on it, and its been running like a champ. But it all comes down to your risk threshold and how much you're willing to spend.
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Feb 20, 2014 14:20
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Heners_UK posted:What I'm asking about I suppose is the general consensus on if you should pay more now or pay less now and possibly replace sooner than I'd like? If you don't want to worry about performance and have at least a medium-size neckbeard, the combo of a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite (Amazon) and one or more UniFi APs (Amazon) is probably the way to go. Separating routing from wireless will let you upgrade/repair each piece separately, and devices that are focused on a single function typically do it better than combined ones. The same reasons this thread recommends a separate modem and router also apply to routers and wireless APs. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Feb 20, 2014 |
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Feb 20, 2014 17:17
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bam thwok posted:This might be weird one; Update in case anyone was wondering. This is working now with two DD-WRT routers; one in client mode to snatch up the public wifi connection, then wired to another router which broadcasts the SSID. The client mode router handles DCHP. Still struggling with the second part of the issue. After a time, the network requires me to sign back in. It must time out/expire or something. Once I do log in again from one device, the connection goes live for all devices connected to the AP. My cable provider lets me register MAC addresses for automatic sign-in (up to 5) but that hasn't stopped the expiration. But it appears as though if the device on which I initially signed-on is active, the connection remains authenticated. I have no idea why. Next step, I guess, is to figure out how long it takes for the userid/pw authorization to time out, and set up a script/batch that pings an external site, makes a web request, downloads a trivially small file, or who knows, to see if that resets the clock indefinitely.
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Feb 21, 2014 17:01
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I've got an Asus RT-N66 coming in today but I can't seem to connect to ftp.dd-wrt.com at all today. Is this something that happens a lot?
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Feb 21, 2014 17:45
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Does anyone know if the Intel 6250 card (seen here) supports simultaneous connections to a 2.4ghz and 5ghz network? I'm planning to get a dual band router (probably the netgear N750) and I need to upgrade my wireless card. I live in an apartment building with tons of wireless networks bogging down my network speed. I've searched all over for info for that card and can't determine whether it can actually connect to both frequencies simultaneously. It and the 6300 are the white listed upgrades for my T430, and some have complained about issues with the 6300 in the T430.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:17
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Tetrix posted:Does anyone know if the Intel 6250 card (seen here) supports simultaneous connections to a 2.4ghz and 5ghz network? I'm planning to get a dual band router (probably the netgear N750) and I need to upgrade my wireless card. I live in an apartment building with tons of wireless networks bogging down my network speed. Each card has a single radio, so it can only connect to one frequency/network at a time. You'll need two cards if you want to use two SSIDs on two different channels simultaneously. The 6300 is only worthwhile if your laptop has 3 integrated antennas. Most don't, so the 6200 is probably the way to go. That said, you'll probably get better performance using a 5GHz channel in your apartment, since it doesn't penetrate walls as well as 2.4GHz. Also, there are many more channels to choose from in that band, so find an uncrowded one and you should be good. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Feb 23, 2014 |
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Feb 23, 2014 21:20
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Just gonna chime and say the Linksys E2000 has not been very good to me. Seems to crash about once a week or so and require a reboot before it will allow any local network access, either over wired or wireless. This has been getting progressively worse over the past year or so, used to happen about every three months and now it's up to weekly, so I'm guessing it will just die soon. It doesn't seem like they maybe don't sell this router anymore? so maybe the OP is just way out of date, but if you are considering it I'd probably look at other options instead.
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Feb 27, 2014 21:42
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Yea what is the new hot-poo poo home router? Has the N band finally been certified or do we still have the pre-standard crap in the Home Segment?
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Feb 28, 2014 17:51
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Powercrazy posted:Yea what is the new hot-poo poo home router? Has the N band finally been certified or do we still have the pre-standard crap in the Home Segment? The 802.11n gear is stable and mature. The new 802.11ac standard was approved last month so there's still some gear out there that's pre-standard. What are you looking for in a router? Fast, cheap, reliable/secure: pick two.
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Feb 28, 2014 17:54
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Fast and Reliable. I'm ok spending some money as long as I don't have to gently caress with the router with daily resets and poo poo like that.
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Feb 28, 2014 18:17
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I'm looking into powerline networking. I have a router and a power network. Is there something like a switch that I can plug into the wall socket by the router to pump it full of internets, and then suck the internets out of the wall sockets in other rooms of the house, like for the tv in the living room and the stationary computer in the home office, like simultaneously? Or are these gadgets paired only? And if so, can you use several in the same house? And also, they all seem to claim to have to be "on the same circuit breaker". Does this equate to "be in the same house", or "be among the same group of sockets that go dark when I short one of them out with a butter knife"?
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Feb 28, 2014 19:52
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Modern circuit breakers are isolated from each other and the main feed using cool engineering magiks. This means that the signal won't stay intact unless it's on the same "piece of wire." So the answer is if it all goes dark at the same time when you flip the breaker, powerline should work. If not, it probably won't. They have to be paired afaik. Just use a switch before or after the powerline segment if you want more ports.
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Feb 28, 2014 20:00
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But the rooms I want networked are on different floors, and the whole reason I want powerline networking is to be rid of them nasty cat-5 tripwires snaking all over the place  e: ^^^^ what breaker do you mean though? I have little ones that darken portions of rooms, a big one that darkens everything, and then three ones that each darken a third of the house and makes everything go wobbly (phase breakers). Karate Bastard fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 28, 2014 |
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Feb 28, 2014 20:04
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Comcast recently replaced my old as poo poo modem with their current Arris model. Previously I had a Sonicwall tz215 hooked up, but the new Arris is not in bridged mode. In order to hook up the sonicwall again(primarily for VPN to my office) do i want to call comcast and havethem switch me to transparent bridged mode, or would I be able to put the sonicwall on the DMZ port and work that way?
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Feb 28, 2014 20:22
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I have a pair of powerline networking doodads and they work really well. Took me 60 seconds to plug them in and pair them, and I haven't thought about them since. I bought them on Jan 22 off Amazon, so it's been over a month with zero issues. To answer some of your questions 1: You can have multiple ones in the house, I think the limit is 16 or something. 2: The 2nd gen powerline adapters (AV2/500) are much more forgiving than the first gen tech when it comes to where in the electrical system they are plugged in at. If they're in the same house they should work if you have reasonably new wiring in good condition. Just don't plug them into surge protectors. I have a pair of these. A few things worth mentioning. The 500mbit claim is marketing bullshit so don't get your panties in a wad when they don't connect at that speed. That's maximum theoretical connection rate by using 100% of all available spectrum in a perfect scenario, aggregate of all devices. I have a 4 year old house and I see about 120 mbit between the two adapters in my house. That's plenty considering my internet speed is only 12mbit and I just needed to get the internet to my gigabit switch where all my stuff is. If you do care about intra-household transfers, expect 100mbit speed which I think is fine for what these adapters do. If you need actual gigabit throughput, run Cat5e. Powercrazy posted:Fast and Reliable. I'm ok spending some money as long as I don't have to gently caress with the router with daily resets and poo poo like that. If you don't care about any fancy features or being able to manage every detail of the router I really like the Apple Airport Extreme boxes. Plug them in and forget they are there. They just work. 5th gen refurbs (N900) are 85 bucks from Apple. The 6th gen AC is nice but is very expensive. I've also heard good things about the EnGenius line of routers as being rock solid. If you want to tinker, get a 3rd party firmware compatible ASUS. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Feb 28, 2014 |
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Feb 28, 2014 20:23
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Karate Bastard posted:But the rooms I want networked are on different floors, and the whole reason I want powerline networking is to be rid of them nasty cat-5 tripwires snaking all over the place FWIW, I have two powerline adapters plugged into outlets on different circuits and they work just fine. One is plugged into a room downstairs, and the other is plugged into the room directly above it. It didn't even occur to me until now that they might not work because they're on different circuits 
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Feb 28, 2014 21:03
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skipdogg posted:
I don't care too much about fancy features, but I want to be able to get to it and manage it without downloading some stupid external client. SSH or preferably a simple web-interface is what I'm looking for.
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Feb 28, 2014 21:27
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Powercrazy posted:Modern circuit breakers are isolated from each other and the main feed using cool engineering magiks. This means that the signal won't stay intact unless it's on the same "piece of wire." So the answer is if it all goes dark at the same time when you flip the breaker, powerline should work. If not, it probably won't. They have to be paired afaik. Just use a switch before or after the powerline segment if you want more ports. According to the docs of the latest products this isn't all so lucky, the signal is quite happy to hop over breakers. This is why the products usually have an encryption layer. It also means it's a complete crapshoot whether powerline would work in every case.
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Feb 28, 2014 21:43
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Maybe this will help someone else. I was looking for a new router to run pfsense and found this: http://www.mini-box.com/MITAC-PD12TI-D2500CCE-Mini-ITX-Motherboard It's actually an Intel board with a pair of real Intel nics. That plus the case they show on the page and $10 on ebay for 2gb of so-dimms for a new pfsense box ~$170.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:07
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Powercrazy posted:I don't care too much about fancy features, but I want to be able to get to it and manage it without downloading some stupid external client. SSH or preferably a simple web-interface is what I'm looking for. Manage it? What management? Log into AEBS, setup once, save settings and walk away until the end of time. There you go, it doesn't get easier than that. I just ditched my Mikrotik RB751 for one of these (5th generation refurb) and am happy to be out of the "tweaking" mindset. I don't have time for that at home.
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Feb 28, 2014 23:51
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Except for QoS, usage charts, and the ability to forward more than a certain amount of ports, an AEBS should be good enough for most purposes. Airport Utility is also one of the few pieces of software that Apple still makes for Windows, and its got 100% feature parity with the Mac version last time I looked. I also don't know where else you can get dual radios (2.4 and 5 Ghz simultaneously) along with 3x3 MIMO antennas in a router with a 1 Ghz processor for $85 bucks.
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Mar 1, 2014 01:20
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Ruby got Railed posted:Comcast recently replaced my old as poo poo modem with their current Arris model. Previously I had a Sonicwall tz215 hooked up, but the new Arris is not in bridged mode. In order to hook up the sonicwall again(primarily for VPN to my office) do i want to call comcast and havethem switch me to transparent bridged mode, or would I be able to put the sonicwall on the DMZ port and work that way? Bridge it. NAT is evil enough, double NAT is not something you should consider a valid choice but rather something to only tolerate if there is no other option.
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Mar 1, 2014 06:35
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I measured the power consumption of my routers because I was thinking about replacing my WNDR3700U with something else, but I don’t think there’s an pfsense-style appliance out there that only uses 4,5W and has comparable WAN throughput. All router figures are idle, you can add one watt for full load. 4,5W 3700 no wifi 5,7W 3700 2.4 6,5W 3700 2.4+5 6,5W rt66u no wifi 7,7W rt66u 2.4 9,3W rt66u 2.4+5 8,1W AEBS 2.4+5 bridge, idle 9,2W AEBS 2.4+5 bridge, 1 client iperf 8,9W C2D Mac Mini idle The AEBS is seriously awesome as an AP. My net iperf throughput went from 85 Mbit/s to 720 Mbit/s from the WNDR3700 to the AEBS by skipping a concrete wall and moving to 802.11ac.
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Mar 1, 2014 09:03
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I have a strange problem. I'm on a Linksys E900 running shibbys tomato firmware and it's been excellent for the past year or so. Well, today I received my Macbook Pro and it refuses to connect via wireless N. Before with my other laptop I had to disable WMM to get good (internet) download speeds and use a specific channel (7) with upper 40mhz band. If I enable WMM my internet is hosed but LAN speeds are good and I can connect at N again from the MBP. What is this horse poo poo?
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Mar 1, 2014 19:35
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According to a lot of Googling, disabling WMM effectively disables wireless N, so you're really connecting at G throughput. I've also seen it mentioned that switching to channel 9 helps. Supposedly there is a fix in the official firmware regarding this bug which was published 7/13/2013, maybe see if there's a new shibby build for your router that rolls this fix in?
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Mar 1, 2014 20:13
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z06ck posted:I have a strange problem. I'm on a Linksys E900 running shibbys tomato firmware and it's been excellent for the past year or so. Well, today I received my Macbook Pro and it refuses to connect via wireless N. I'm an idiot. Newest build fixed it. Thanks bro.
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Mar 1, 2014 21:01
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Dumb question: All my day, my 2 roommates and I have been completely unable to login to Blizzard's Battle.net service to play games. It seems to be a problem with our specific network, but just yesterday one of my roommates was playing Hearthstone fine. I haven't played in a few months, and I don't think my other roommate has touched a Blizzard game since this stupid game library manager tool was created. Anyways, I found this support article; https://us.battle.net/support/en/article/firewall-proxy-router-and-port-configuration Log in to my router, go to forward the ports (I've never done this before) and it asks for an IP address and the ports... Do I use my router's IP address or my local machines?  I tried it with 192.168.0. 0, 1, and 3 (my PC) and none of it works. edit; http://stackoverflow.com/questions/273159/how-to-determine-if-a-port-is-open-on-a-windows-server following this post, a `telnet 192.168.0.1 443` command failed... So it looks like it's not forwarded properly? Sab669 fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Mar 1, 2014 |
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Mar 1, 2014 22:06
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eames posted:The AEBS is seriously awesome as an AP. My net iperf throughput went from 85 Mbit/s to 720 Mbit/s from the WNDR3700 to the AEBS by skipping a concrete wall and moving to 802.11ac. Yes, the AEBS is great, but you're giving it credit that belongs to the newer spec and the laws of physics.
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Mar 2, 2014 09:11
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Tapedump posted:That's an awfully disingenuous comparison, far too greatly discounting the impediment that wall is/was and the throughput increase of AC. Yes, that’s why I mentioned it.  To be honest, the WNDR3700 never managed more than 115 Mbit/s net throughput eve under optimal conditions (1 meter distance, no second network in range, etc.) with my rMBP, but maybe that was because of dd-wrt.
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Mar 2, 2014 14:45
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