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minstrels posted:Perfectly normal for a hefeweizen yeast. It'll clear up by itself when primary is over. Ok cheers, I was starting to freak out haha. Tomorrow will be doing a 100% smoked beer, which is normally for lager types but since I don't have a chest freezer I'm going to just ferment with clean crisp ale yeast at the lower end on the temperature range. quote:Ingredients: Would rather do some sours but don't have the space yet, also love to do another oatmeal smoked stout or something but not got some of the speciality grains needed and wouldn't get here for tomorrow. So just gonna do this one recipe. 
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Mar 1, 2014 17:34
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 23:19 |
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How bad is this? A bit of mould on the inside edge of my bucket, seen stuff like this before but that was between the outside edge and the lid. The beer was completely covered by a layer of yeast and the mould spot was like a pinky nail. Sistergodiva fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Mar 1, 2014 |
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Mar 1, 2014 21:15
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Do you guys use clarifying agents at all? I've been playing with the idea since I generally like my beers to be clear, and I'm wondering if there's any product/process especially goon-recommended. Also, apart from leaving a less murky beer, does clarifying have any other effects?
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Mar 2, 2014 02:29
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I use Irish Moss and that's about it. That plus a cold crash and a couple weeks in the keg gets it clear enough for homebrew as far as I can tell.
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Mar 2, 2014 03:22
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NEED TOILET PAPER posted:Do you guys use clarifying agents at all? I've been playing with the idea since I generally like my beers to be clear, and I'm wondering if there's any product/process especially goon-recommended. Also, apart from leaving a less murky beer, does clarifying have any other effects? I just used gelatin for the first time and I love the results. I dry hopped without a hop bag and it really helped drop all the hop matter to the bottom. A cup of water microwaved to get it hot enough, mix in the gelatin, let it cool, and dump it into the beer and agitate to distribute. May not be the best way to go about it but for my lighter beers I definitely think I'll do it again.
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Mar 2, 2014 03:57
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NEED TOILET PAPER posted:Do you guys use clarifying agents at all? I've been playing with the idea since I generally like my beers to be clear, and I'm wondering if there's any product/process especially goon-recommended. Also, apart from leaving a less murky beer, does clarifying have any other effects?
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Mar 2, 2014 05:51
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Syrinxx posted:I use whirlfloc which in my opinion works a bit better than irish moss, but I can't really say I've quantified that. I think they're pretty much the same thing anyway. I've also learned that whirlfloc is better at doing its thing by dropping it about 1-2 minutes before flameout. The packages recommend 10-15 for reference.
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Mar 2, 2014 13:54
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So a while back, I started getting ingredients to make a raspberry wheat ale, and they've been sitting in my basement and fridge. I can't locate the recipe I was going to use, and I figure it's time to start thinking of making it for the spring/summer. Here's my entire current inventory (doesn't all have to go into this, it's just listing what I have): 2 vials WLP400 Belgian wit yeast (expired in 2012 and 2013... I'm guessing I definitely have no use for them now) 2oz Willamette hops 2lbs flaked wheat 1 big can Vintner's Reserve red raspberry puree 4lb Munton's plain unhopped wheat DME 3lb Breis CBW Pilsen Light unhopped DME 2oz coriander seed 1oz sweet orange peel 1lb each white and soft brown Belgian candi sugar I forget if I was going to do .5oz Willamette at 60 mins remaining, .5 at 20, and 1 at 5 mins. Am I missing anything? Optimally I can hit up the LHBS today in hopes of brewing tomorrow. I've got all the Onestep I need and can grab some spring water from the grocery store. Good to go for airlocks, stoppers, funnels, etc.
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Mar 2, 2014 15:17
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Anyone have an opinion on dry-hopping a stout? I've got an extra 2oz of northern brewer chilling in my fridge, and my FG sample was considerably more bitter than I intended. Not bad or anything, just not what I intended. I'd like to balance that out, but I'm not sure its the way to go. I've never really done it.
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Mar 2, 2014 17:25
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LeeMajors posted:Anyone have an opinion on dry-hopping a stout? I've got an extra 2oz of northern brewer chilling in my fridge, and my FG sample was considerably more bitter than I intended. Not bad or anything, just not what I intended. I'd like to balance that out, but I'm not sure its the way to go. I've never really done it. It's not a direct analogue, but I tried to dry hop an English Pale Ale, once, with East Kent Golding. It did not go well. In my experience, the english varieties of hops are really not intended to be in-your-face. I found having the EKG up front was very off-putting, with an almost sickly-sweet aroma that needed several weeks to fade before I could consider drinking it. Northern Brewer / Northdown is very similar to EKG with regards to its flavor and aroma profile, so I would strongly recommend avoiding dry-hopping a stout, especially with an English variety of hops.
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Mar 2, 2014 21:17
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null_pointer posted:It's not a direct analogue, but I tried to dry hop an English Pale Ale, once, with East Kent Golding. It did not go well. It's US No. Brewer I'm using, not the english varietal. Everything I've read said it lends itself well to dual-use. I've never personally used it before. Decided to give it a shot in a SMASH pale and I had some left over--thought it could be useful to balance out the stout in small quantities. 
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Mar 2, 2014 21:24
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LeeMajors posted:It's US No. Brewer I'm using, not the english varietal. Everything I've read said it lends itself well to dual-use. I've never personally used it before. Decided to give it a shot in a SMASH pale and I had some left over--thought it could be useful to balance out the stout in small quantities. Meh. I'd be curious to see how it turns out -- say, a third of an ounce of Northern Brewer as a dry hop? But my own experience with dry-hopping a non-pale ale / non-IPA has really put me off of it. In a stout, especially, hop aroma is typically low-to-nonexistent, so it might be somewhat jarring to your palate to get hop aroma where you weren't expecting. Still, it might be worth the experiment. If you're comfortable with it, give it a shot, but if you're just thinking "hey, I need to get rid of these hops" I would pass.
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Mar 2, 2014 21:31
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null_pointer posted:Still, it might be worth the experiment. If you're comfortable with it, give it a shot, but if you're just thinking "hey, I need to get rid of these hops" I would pass. Yeah, this is my reservation. Mainly I'm trying to do something to balance the slight overbitterness of what I added. Maybe I'll just cold brew a little coffee and age it in secondary with some of it. Maybe the flatness of the sample made the bitterness more pronounced. I dunno.
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Mar 2, 2014 21:40
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Our house has busted out 7 new batches and bottled 4 existing batches in the last 3 weekends. And a gallon of cider. Someone call the ATF... I need a break.
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Mar 2, 2014 21:43
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fullroundaction posted:Our house has busted out 7 new batches and bottled 4 existing batches in the last 3 weekends. And a gallon of cider.  Impressive. I'm about to do my third batch solo in the past two and a half weeks, and I thought I was doing pretty well.
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Mar 2, 2014 21:45
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It's not impressive it's a disease. Brewed: Kolsch (first ever) * Saison (80/10/10% pils/wheat/rye) with 3711 Sour Flanders Red Forbidden Fruit wheat Double IPA Brown/Mild Munich/Saaz SMaSH * = mine. As you can see I'm no longer running the show over here (the girlfriends are). I've got a all Amarillo pale ale that's just about carbbed up and it tastes amazing. Wish I would have gone 10 gal on that one instead of 5 ;( In positive news we all got over 75% efficiency over the last 2 weekends so no more crying over that.
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Mar 2, 2014 23:08
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Just put my Toast'd Oatmeal Cookie Honey Porter in the secondary with the aforementioned honey and Hot drat! did WL002 make some banana aromas... having used this yeast probably 20 times in my life, I have yet to smell something like that not from a Hefe yeast.
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Mar 2, 2014 23:56
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Just in case there was any question how popular home brewing has become... I saw BYO Magazine at the checkout today at the grocery store It's a smaller chain, not Safeway or something, but still.
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Mar 3, 2014 00:21
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LeeMajors posted:Yeah, this is my reservation. Mainly I'm trying to do something to balance the slight overbitterness of what I added. Maybe I'll just cold brew a little coffee and age it in secondary with some of it. Maybe the flatness of the sample made the bitterness more pronounced. I dunno. Yeah, some cold-brewed coffee, some cocoa nibs, a couple of vanilla beans, and you've got yourself something amazing. Go for those sorts of flavors, not necessarily a dry hop for the hell of it.
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Mar 3, 2014 01:44
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fullroundaction posted:Our house has busted out 7 new batches and bottled 4 existing batches in the last 3 weekends. And a gallon of cider. I can sympathize. Bottled the last 5 gallons of the hydromel, kegged a Kolsh and bottled it's brother pitched with Rosealre, checked on the 8 gallons of braggot, and another of IPA, bottled a gallon of lavender hyromel. And that was just yesterday, I didn't even brew. 2014 is turning into a productive year.
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Mar 3, 2014 02:10
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LeeMajors posted:Yeah, this is my reservation. Mainly I'm trying to do something to balance the slight overbitterness of what I added. Maybe I'll just cold brew a little coffee and age it in secondary with some of it. Maybe the flatness of the sample made the bitterness more pronounced. I dunno. I think coffee is really solid idea, I just did an RIS and added about 4 oz of local coffee two days before kegging it and it really worked well(although depending on FG I would recommend possibly using less). You could also do bourbon and oak chips, the vanilla and sweet cherry that oak adds may help cut it some. The other thing about bitterness and beers that age well is that it will mellow with time. My RIS is around 12.5% and I think 90 IBUs. It is fairly bitter when young but after 4-6 months it really smooths out.
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Mar 3, 2014 02:50
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Ok its 4am here, I woke up to go for a piss then planned on going back to bed, on the way to the toilet I could smell this overwhelming smell of bananas. I go check my beer, second generation WLP 300 hefeweizen ale yeast all over the floor. Had to clean it up with about 4 tea towels and now I'm awake. But god drat, I highly recommend this yeast if only to make your house smell of bananas!Jacobey000 posted:I can sympathize. Bottled the last 5 gallons of the hydromel, kegged a Kolsh and bottled it's brother pitched with Rosealre, checked on the 8 gallons of braggot, and another of IPA, bottled a gallon of lavender hyromel. And that was just yesterday, I didn't even brew. 2014 is turning into a productive year. I'm running out of bottles and I have around 400-500 500ml-660ml bottles. But not got the one off payload to get a freezer yet. 
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Mar 3, 2014 04:54
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I was wondering what are you guys and gals setup for delabelling bottles? For me I sort the known brand bottles the labels come off, and ones that don't (I recycle). Then if there is any I don't know I use one to see, fill a bucket up 5gallons of water and PBW submerge all the bottles I can fit put lid on, leave it 30minutes - 1hour. Come back and some labels fall off instantly, some I use steel wool to get the label / excess glue off. Rinse inside and outside with water. Put on bottle drainer tree. Just wondering how everyone else does and if I could improve on it, as I got dumped 180 empty bottles this morning (which was a life saver) but spending an hour and a half for 20 or so bottles feels abit slow. But to be fair only 30minutes of those 1hour 30 is doing something. 
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Mar 3, 2014 13:03
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Fluo posted:I was wondering what are you guys and gals setup for delabelling bottles? That's pretty much what I do except I soak a little longer.
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Mar 3, 2014 14:36
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Word of warning. When using brew toad, the calculator adds all malts as fermentable and that messed up my brew (sort of). Just remember to see what it calculates for your fermentables and plan on having that much abv instead of what it says after you add them. On that note: I leave you with my 4% Polish Amber Ale (which is 2% less ABV than what I was aiming for). On that other note: The un-carbed beer itself tastes great so I guess I can't complain. 100% Northern Brewer hops really worked well with my recipe.
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Mar 3, 2014 15:01
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Word of warning. When using brew toad, the calculator adds all malts as fermentable and that messed up my brew (sort of). Just remember to see what it calculates for your fermentables and plan on having that much abv instead of what it says after you add them. What?
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Mar 3, 2014 15:31
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fullroundaction posted:What? Exhibit A shows 2 row malt only with yeast. It is calculated to be 5% ABV  Exhibit B is the same but with 1lb Chocolate malt added and it shows it 6% ABV (chocolate malt definitely doesn't contribute to abv)  Basically I was being stupid and not paying attention and made 4% beer Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Mar 3, 2014 |
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Mar 3, 2014 15:49
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Marshmallow Blue posted:(chocolate malt definitely doesn't contribute to abv) Chocolate malt will contribute sugars to your OG: http://lvhb.org/formulation2.html
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Mar 3, 2014 16:18
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Yeah but he's saying it doesn't account for its low fermentability. That's something that has always frustrated me about recipe calculators, especially when using something like lactose.
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Mar 3, 2014 16:23
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I've worked around it by adding all my base malts and getting my abv from that, then adding specialty malts and disregarding what the new ABV prediction is. This however makes predicting final gravity the issue (which I don't care about as much if it tastes good. I guess I can say the same for abv though)
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Mar 3, 2014 16:33
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Specialty malts don't contain as many non-fermentables as they're popularly believed to. The screenshots do seem to take that into account (1.007 vs 1.008). Looks about right to me, but I've always been terrible at the math part of brewing. http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2013/03/technical-notes-on-fermentability.html
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Mar 3, 2014 16:47
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Fluo posted:I was wondering what are you guys and gals setup for delabelling bottles? I just drink a billion gallons of Lagunitas. Their labels are barely held on, and come right off with hot water.
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Mar 3, 2014 17:09
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I just stopped delabeling bottles... I only have about 30$ a month to spend on beer/ beer making so I'm pretty much self sufficient on home brew and make just enough to cover myself for the month and don't share too many bottles (and when I do share them I don't get them back). I am 33% happier with home brewing now that I've stopped delabeling botles.
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Mar 3, 2014 17:26
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LeeMajors posted:I just drink a billion gallons of Lagunitas. Their labels are barely held on, and come right off with hot water. I have trouble capping their bottles with the red baron/emily capper. I'm gonna have to procure some more bottles -- I think I've got about 100 empties, but I need to bottle 15 gallons (apfelwein, lager, Oberon clone) in the next few weeks, and that's if I don't make Skeeter Pee. I'm going to try to put some of each of these (12 each or so) in A&W root beer PET bottles, because I'm going on a camping trip in June at a campground that doesn't allow glass. Anyone tried to reuse these? I've read you need to handle them specially (rinse in cold water, not hot, first) to get the root beer smell out, but otherwise they work fine.
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Mar 3, 2014 17:30
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Yup, I've used them as spare bottles in case I didn't have enough. Once you get the smell out you just rinse and sanitize like the glass ones, but yeah as they are plastic they shouldn't be exposed to 140F or higher liquids. They hold carbonation well too. Not sure I'd be cellaring with them, but it sounds more like you just need them for the camping trip.
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Mar 3, 2014 17:45
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They sell pear wine kits and I'm trying to extrapolate from that to make a perry. It's not very common in the US, such that it's officially "pear cider" now in American English since that gives people the general idea. So I'm not very familiar with perry, but one of my favorite parts of this hobby is not letting that stop me. I started with a 96 oz. Vitner's Harvest can of pear base, which is just a syrup. Beersmith says 8 lbs of sugar should get me on the high end of the gravity range. Aerated it for 30 minutes. On the can it said for pear wine to add 1/2 tsp. of tannin, which I did. The BJCP description says perry has a medium to high amount of tannin, so that seemed safe. It also says there is very little, if any, acid, so I omitted the acid blend recommended by the can for a pear wine. I can of course add more acid and tannin later if I like. Since we're dealing with mostly sugar here I added yeast nutrient and diammonium phosphate as if it were a mead. I pitched a single vial of WLP002, which is my habit since this leaves a little residual sweetness when making hard cider. We'll see! BerkerkLurk fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Mar 3, 2014 |
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Mar 3, 2014 18:22
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BerkerkLurk posted:They sell pear wine kits and I'm trying to extrapolate from that to make a perry. It's not very common in the US, such that it's officially "pear cider" now in American English since that gives people the general idea. So I'm not very familiar with perry, but one of my favorite parts of this hobby is not letting that stop me. Perry is made from Perry pears, its the kind of cider apple of the pear world!  In UK they only really grow in Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Worcestershire (they grow in one or two areas of France too). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjCSWMKrEHQ&t=590s If you fancy the cider clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxRSX0Fn1o0&t=109s Weird though that pear cider means perry in US now , in UK pear cider is pretty much cider with pear flavouring. (I recommend the second video )!Also hope the pear wine turns out well, It is great!! I have still Perry all the time! 
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Mar 3, 2014 18:33
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I'm guessing the pear base I used was just eating pears like Bartlett, but I knew that going in. Beggars can't be choosers. Edit: And I see from the video Perry pears are pretty rare these days, oh well. BerkerkLurk fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Mar 3, 2014 |
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Mar 3, 2014 18:43
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I think perry covers multiple meanings in the US. Perry : Mead made with pears Perry : A cider with pears instead of apples Perry : Pear wine It's not confusing at all guys. Where are you getting tied up?
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Mar 3, 2014 18:49
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Incidentally, I accidentally tried to ferment some drinking cider with preservatives and it didn't work. Add a shot of herbal liqueur and it's like having a nice mulled hard cider. I used Leopold Brothers Three Pins herbal liqueur, which might be a Colorado-only thing.
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Mar 3, 2014 18:53
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