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I go full-on retard with this sort of medication and use Trifexis, a pill which handles fleas ticks and heartworm. Not all dogs take to it -- vomiting is a fairly common side effect -- and neither of my vets carry it in stock anymore so I have to have them order it online for me. It's a good thirty bucks a month but with all the dog parkin' we do it's the one area where I absolutely cannot skimp. I havent found a flea on him the entire time he's been on it. There's also Sentinel which does almost the same thing but only sterilizes the fleas rather than poisoning them outright. I found two fleas on Tater while he was on it so eeh.
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Feb 28, 2014 18:33
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Orange_Lazarus posted:I took the dog to a specialist who said that she had grade 2 (he didn't do an x-ray and I forgot to ask why) on both her hind legs. He explained how the surgery worked and that it was usually 95% successful and would cost me between $2300-3000 (just for one leg) depending on if there were any other problems. Grading for luxating patellas is based on how mobile they are an where the knee is, so x-rays aren't used to grade. They can give you an idea of secondary change to the leg or joints which may change the plan.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:11
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Eegah posted:I go full-on retard with this sort of medication and use Trifexis, a pill which handles fleas ticks and heartworm. Not all dogs take to it -- vomiting is a fairly common side effect -- and neither of my vets carry it in stock anymore so I have to have them order it online for me. It's a good thirty bucks a month but with all the dog parkin' we do it's the one area where I absolutely cannot skimp. I havent found a flea on him the entire time he's been on it. We also use trifexis, we got a free sample from our vet and it is awesome. Plus for 30 a month it beats the hell out of advantage/frontline. I didn't want to use drops anyways since our shiba has that super dense double coat and it would be a bitch to get it on skin, not fur. We didn't experience any vomiting either.
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Mar 1, 2014 01:10
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3 year old rescue Shar Pei came home with us yesterday from a foster home. She peed a few times while she was laying down and then got up and sat away from it, and when she's outside she'll stop to pee frequently. No accidents this morning, but definitely stopped to pee a fair few times on her walk, even when she was on empty. Hoping it's just a stress/new home thing and not something more concerning, like UTI or even the dreaded beetus, but we have a vet appointment in an hour anyway to get everything looked at and put our minds at rest. She needs a low protein diet, and I got given a basic dog bake recipe of rice, mince, veges and tin of tomatoes done like a casserole, but is there any other home made dog food recipes to try that would be suitable?
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Mar 1, 2014 01:54
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So I just adopted Zee today: She's a 1 1/2 yr old Jack Russell / Chihuahua mix. She is pretty close to my ideal dog. High energy, super-lovey dovey and she's already mastered the "sad face". The lady at the Humane Society thought I was a little bonkers for looking specifically for a high-energy dog but nothing beats a terrier getting you off your rear end to run. My other experience with small terriers and running are my sister's Mini-Rat Terriers who were pretty well broken into distance running by the rime I met them. Is there anything I should be cautious of when starting a new dog on long runs? When I say long I'm meaning about an hour or so. I figure I'd do some shorter ones to phase her into it and keep an eye on her nails and pads. Am I overlooking anything?
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Mar 1, 2014 01:58
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Dirt5o8 posted:My other experience with small terriers and running are my sister's Mini-Rat Terriers who were pretty well broken into distance running by the rime I met them. Is there anything I should be cautious of when starting a new dog on long runs? When I say long I'm meaning about an hour or so. I figure I'd do some shorter ones to phase her into it and keep an eye on her nails and pads. Am I overlooking anything? Start on slow, short runs, and build up very gradually. She might be high energy, but she's still only a little dog! Get her a harness so she can pull (my JRT loves to tow me along when we run) and so that if you have to abruptly stop, you're not going to hurt her neck. Make sure she stays on one side or ahead of you. A dog that weaves in front of you will quickly get stood on, and she won't much like that. It's useful to have a cue that says 'now we Runnin' too.
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Mar 2, 2014 09:34
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Fraction posted:Start on slow, short runs, and build up very gradually. She might be high energy, but she's still only a little dog! Yeah, I'm all about harnesses. Never thought about having a cue though. Thanks!
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Mar 2, 2014 15:51
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Eegah posted:I go full-on retard with this sort of medication and use Trifexis, a pill which handles fleas ticks and heartworm. Not all dogs take to it -- vomiting is a fairly common side effect -- and neither of my vets carry it in stock anymore so I have to have them order it online for me. It's a good thirty bucks a month but with all the dog parkin' we do it's the one area where I absolutely cannot skimp. I havent found a flea on him the entire time he's been on it. Revolution is the same deal but is a liquid you put on the dog's back (thankfully it dries very quickly). I would love to switch to Trifexis but I remember reading something about it not being ideal for dogs with history of seizures? 2/3 dogs here have seizures so that's a no go 
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Mar 2, 2014 16:32
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It's only been a few days but I haven't seen my dog limp since we blocked access to the stairs. She was doing it every day (sometimes more than once) until we made that change.quote:6-Ethyl Bearcat posted: I will probably go the surgery route but could you tell me about these supplements so I can research them? Thanks. Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Mar 3, 2014 |
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Mar 3, 2014 16:16
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We've had this puppy for a little less than a week now. She was very well potty trained and had no accidents but while we are getting her crate trained we leave her in the bathroom, once for as long as five hours. It's never been a problem until last night. She was alone in there for about 20 minutes and peed and chewed up her bed and did it again this afternoon while we were at the store. I really really don't want this to be a trend, any ideas why it might have changed? I can't think of anything.
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Mar 4, 2014 00:04
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Is the bathroom closed off with no windows? Maybe try a baby gate around her crate instead so she can at least look around at stuff while she's confined. Ours fits in our living room and gives him a perfect view of us on the couch or while we're puttering around in the kitchen. I'd imagine if he's sensory deprived he's getting bored, scared or anxious.
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Mar 4, 2014 01:00
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Ok weird one. Recently we started giving Nyx rawhide bones to gnaw on. Ive noticed that on occasion when I go to pet her when she has one she starts to growl. Now my first instinct was resource guarding, however if I say drop it she let's it go immediately and sits there waiting. She will even chew it right next to me but only starts growling when I touch her. I don't get the feeling its aggressive ( no raised hair or lip line). She does growl when we play tug as well but it doesn't quite seem the same. Thoughts? EDIT: Ok just as I was about to post this she nipped at me. I can't explain it. Her tail is wagging and she's loving life then suddenly a growl.
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Mar 4, 2014 02:49
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Crate is those wire bars so she can see out of it. Bathroom has one useless window up high. It's just so weird. We left her alone for like five hours and she was fine, later that day she peed an chewed up her bed in literally fifteen minutes. Peed and chewed up her bed when we were gone for twenty minutes today. She isn't taking to the crate well which is why we are doing this. We leave her in there with awesome toys and usually a Kong with a little something.
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Mar 4, 2014 02:53
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m.hache posted:EDIT: Ok just as I was about to post this she nipped at me. I can't explain it. Her tail is wagging and she's loving life then suddenly a growl. Wagging how? Not all tail wags = happy/relaxed.
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Mar 4, 2014 03:21
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m.hache posted:Ok weird one. Recently we started giving Nyx rawhide bones to gnaw on. Ive noticed that on occasion when I go to pet her when she has one she starts to growl. Now my first instinct was resource guarding, however if I say drop it she let's it go immediately and sits there waiting. She will even chew it right next to me but only starts growling when I touch her. Tail wag != happy. Dogs don't like it when you bother them while they're eating or chewing on things. Some dogs tolerate it better than others. Since you know this is a trigger, manage her so that she doesn't get a chance to practice the guarding, and treat it like standard resource guarding. That means a lot of approaching with awesome treats and trading for the rawhide, randomly tossing treats for settling nicely with you while chewing, and keep practicing the drop command (and always make the drop command pay better than guarding the thing). If she puts a paw on the rawhide, back up a step. If she growls at all, back off immediately.
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Mar 4, 2014 03:28
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Months of meticulously cleaning up to make sure the pup doesn't have anything dangerous to find and chew and the one time we misplace a small container of pills....... Well, on the bright side she's fine and resting at the emergency vet's overnight for observation. I'm gonna have to be a tough love parent to my druggie dog now, though. Popping pills at 8 months? where did I go wrong 
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Mar 4, 2014 03:49
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Her tail seemed to be wagging like she wanted to play. Prior to her nipping me she had jumped onto the couch with the rawhide and was gnawing it in my lap. Even let me hold it while she worked on it. It's just when I go to pet her which is weird. I'll make sure to go over with the Girlfriend to have treats on her at all times if we decide to give her another rawhide. We'll just condition her to want to drop it for even better treats!
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Mar 4, 2014 03:52
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Sharzak posted:Crate is those wire bars so she can see out of it. Bathroom has one useless window up high. It's just so weird. We left her alone for like five hours and she was fine, later that day she peed an chewed up her bed in literally fifteen minutes. Peed and chewed up her bed when we were gone for twenty minutes today. She isn't taking to the crate well which is why we are doing this. We leave her in there with awesome toys and usually a Kong with a little something. I didn't articulate this very well, sorry. In the past when we needed to go somewhere and she couldn't come we put her in the bathroom with a doggie bed, a bowl of water, toys, and treats. We crate trained her this weekend but it didn't go very well--she's fine sleeping in there, takes treats in there, etc., but as I was leaving the apartment the other night I left her in the crate and heard her howling as I was walking down the hall. I came back and put her in the bathroom and when I got back 20 minutes later she had peed on her bed and chewed it up and generally made a mess. She doesn't ever go into the bathroom willingly--I have to bribe her incrementally with treats until I can close the door with both of us inside, pet and praise her, and then make her sit while I leave. I was thinking maybe it was just a one time thing but she did it the next time we left her in the bathroom for just a few minutes. The only things I can think of are--she just now developed separation anxiety since she didn't really know us enough to care if we left until recently, something scary happened in the bathroom while we were gone, or she was so traumatized by me leaving her in the crate that she can't stand being left alone any longer. I hope this is just a coincidence but I guess I'll find out soon.
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Mar 4, 2014 04:00
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Martytoof posted:Months of meticulously cleaning up to make sure the pup doesn't have anything dangerous to find and chew and the one time we misplace a small container of pills....... Ugh, tell me about it. About a month ago I took a look at my Adderall meds (new manufacturer) and I swear I had six pills in my hand but when I looked back at it there were only 5. I immediately vacuumed the whole house and was paranoid about it for weeks. Now I keep all of my meds at work in a locked box. Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 14:06
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If you guys are sick of me just let me know and I'll go register on a dog training forum or something, but I keep posting stuff in here because i trust the judgment of a lot of you. My new dog, the 11 month old German shepherd beagle mix named Maia, is pretty solidly housebroken but whenever I bring her from the apartment where she spends most of her time up to my house she poops in my basement and straight up won't do it outside-I take her out every twenty to thirty minutes for 5-10 minutes at a time and she still manages to poo poo in the basement. She was house trained when we got her, so I don't know why she would know to not poop in the apartment but not know to not poop in the basement. How can I correct this? We praise her every time she does either outside.
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Mar 5, 2014 01:05
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Poorly behaved dogs and pill popping pooches are depressing, have some puppy videos! http://youtu.be/ets_7PifxoY This one was when she just came to us because she stopped latching and the clients couldn't bottle feed her. She was also regularly trying to inhale milk. http://youtu.be/5qqlRtQlx2A This one is now 2 or three weeks later! She's no longer coughing after eating, and she is also eating solid mush food now! I always forget to record during active times, I really only remember when she is sleeping.
HelloSailorSign fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 02:00
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Sharzak posted:If you guys are sick of me just let me know and I'll go register on a dog training forum or something, but I keep posting stuff in here because i trust the judgment of a lot of you. Basement is too far/too cold/etc. from the living space to be considered part of the house. Pretend she's not housebroken at the house (which clearly she's not) and up the management with crates, tethers, pens and otherwise until she's in a routine of pooping outside.
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Mar 5, 2014 02:10
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Engineer Lenk posted:Basement is too far/too cold/etc. from the living space to be considered part of the house. Pretend she's not housebroken at the house (which clearly she's not) and up the management with crates, tethers, pens and otherwise until she's in a routine of pooping outside. It really isn't with the house laid out like it is and the basement being finished. Same temp, carpet, etc., as the rest of the house and it's the first place we go when we come in. She's not here often enough to bother with pens and hauling the crate back and forth. I'll just keep her in my room with me when we aren't playing. I have to do that anyway otherwise she will eat the Chihuahua that lives here.
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Mar 5, 2014 03:28
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Sharzak posted:It really isn't with the house laid out like it is and the basement being finished. Same temp, carpet, etc., as the rest of the house and it's the first place we go when we come in. She's not here often enough to bother with pens and hauling the crate back and forth. I'll just keep her in my room with me when we aren't playing. I have to do that anyway otherwise she will eat the Chihuahua that lives here. It probably is for her though. Dogs are weird. My ex and I had a guest room we usually kept closed off so there wasn't animal hair all over it, and for a long time if we left it open one of my dogs would go in and poo poo in it. We had to intentionally keep it open and treat him like he'd never been housetrained for a week or so to get it through his head that the spare bedroom was in fact part of the house. I think it doesn't matter how you keep her out of the basement as long as she's not allowed down there unsupervised (and if you're down there with her, you need to really be paying attention so you can interrupt her right as she starts to go). She should just never have the chance to eliminate down there.
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Mar 5, 2014 04:10
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So, Miles is going in next week to get fixed. What should I be prepared for in the days following?
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Mar 5, 2014 22:25
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Frozen stuffed kongs, antlers, hooves, bully sticks... Food dispensing/puzzle toys...
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Mar 5, 2014 22:31
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How much squirty cream can I feed my puppy, and how regularly? It's like puppy crack and other dogs can actually be near her while she's eating it without her going totally loving mental because OMG other dogs. It only has cream, sugar and propellants in it so I figure it should be fine in moderation? She doesn't seem to be having any bad reactions to it at the moment and ate about 1/3 of a can today. I'd probs be using about half a can on Wednesday for puppy class and half a can on Saturdays for 1 to 1 training.
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Mar 5, 2014 22:38
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Rescue dog appears to have incontinence. She's been peeing herself in her sleep, and because she's deaf, when the cats cautiously come over for a sniff, she sprays piss in her shock that someone's appeared RIGHT NEXT TO HER. We originally took her to the vet last week when we first got her for an initial check up and noted that she was stopping to pee constantly, often with nothing coming out, so they gave us antibiotics in case of a UTI, as the vet explained incontinence could cause a UTI, or alternatively, a UTI could cause incontinence, and one keeps causing the other endlessly. Is there any treatment for incontinence in dogs? It's been 6 days, and we super love her, but it's getting a little frustrating having to mop pee up constantly with no warning and no way to train her out of it. crowtribe fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Mar 6, 2014 |
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Mar 6, 2014 02:07
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It could be spay incontinence. If it is, it's an easy fix with daily pills. It's probably something you should ask your vet about.
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Mar 6, 2014 02:36
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a life less posted:Frozen stuffed kongs, antlers, hooves, bully sticks... I assume you mean I need to be prepared with lots of items to distract him from the stitches?
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Mar 6, 2014 07:03
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Zortzico posted:I assume you mean I need to be prepared with lots of items to distract him from the stitches? Not necessarily from the stitches, but lots of stuff to keep him busy but relatively sedentary. Trick training is also great for this.
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Mar 6, 2014 13:12
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Appreciate the insight, a life less. Here's a picture of our deaf pee-machine in thanks: 
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Mar 6, 2014 13:21
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Zortzico posted:So, Miles is going in next week to get fixed. What should I be prepared for in the days following? Also, at least one night of just heart-wrenching moping and a complete disdain for you putting the cone on his neck.
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Mar 6, 2014 14:50
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If he has a doggy door, he won't be able to use it with the cone. So (a) make sure he gets out to go potty as if you were potty training him, and (b) take pictures and laugh at him when he inevitably tries to fit through it anyway. Also see if you can beat my record for how long you can leave a cone on him. I don't think I made it more than one night before taking it off Tater
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Mar 6, 2014 15:14
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I kept on making jokes that Nyx was getting better reception than the TV. I sometimes wonder if she could understand me because she would always glare. Also keep in mind they may have problems going up stairs with the cones. Nyx would always lower her head to go up the stairs and it would clip. Another note: If your vet gives you the option for IV fluids during the spay I would recommend it. We spent a little extra for IV fluids and it made recovery so much faster. Within a day we had the cone off and by day 3 she was back to her normal self. Ignored the stitches and everything.
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Mar 6, 2014 15:49
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Eegah posted:If he has a doggy door, he won't be able to use it with the cone. So (a) make sure he gets out to go potty as if you were potty training him, and (b) take pictures and laugh at him when he inevitably tries to fit through it anyway. No doggy door, but he sleeps in his crate at night which I don't think that cone is going to fit smoothly into.
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Mar 6, 2014 16:25
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Zortzico posted:No doggy door, but he sleeps in his crate at night which I don't think that cone is going to fit smoothly into. This is the issue we had with both dogs. We ended up letting them sleep out of the crate at the time (and just being hyper-vigilant about taking them outside during the night) so they'd still stay off the stitches.
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Mar 6, 2014 17:14
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Sharzak posted:It really isn't with the house laid out like it is and the basement being finished. Same temp, carpet, etc., as the rest of the house and it's the first place we go when we come in. She's not here often enough to bother with pens and hauling the crate back and forth. I'll just keep her in my room with me when we aren't playing. I have to do that anyway otherwise she will eat the Chihuahua that lives here. My chihuahua mutt thinks that anything outside of the bedroom and living room are not part of the house. He is 95% good about going outside, but every once in a while (especially in the winter) he will crap in the kitchen or the hallway. I think small dogs have a more distorted sense of house than big dogs do as well.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:09
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So everything is going pretty well with my new dog, Zee. We've had a few accidents on the floor but nothing big. The only problem I'm having with her is dog aggression. She goes totally insane around other dogs. Trying to restrain her at the vet got me a couple of nice claw marks on my arm. I'm not really sure how to proceed with fixing it. She doesn't really give me an opportunity to give her rewards for good behavior on her walks because around other dogs there isn't any good behavior. I've got a play date scheduled with my friend's dog tomorrow. I figure it's going to consist mostly of bringing out my friend's dog blanket for her to sniff and treating the hell out of her. What else should I do? The 4-legged terminator in question (sorry for crappy quality): 
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Mar 8, 2014 05:29
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Dirt5o8 posted:I've got a play date scheduled with my friend's dog tomorrow. I figure it's going to consist mostly of bringing out my friend's dog blanket for her to sniff and treating the hell out of her. What else should I do? I'm not sure that scent swapping is as common a thing in dogs as it is in cats. Can't hurt, though. If you have an area where you can practice parallel leash walking, that would be ideal. Your friend and his/her dog starts out way in front, so they're just in visual range, walking away from you and your dog. You walk a path about 20 feet parallel, and use the information about her reaction to decide if you can get any closer. They should be so far out in front that you can get her brain back with treats. When she's walking nicely with you, speed up a little and close some distance. Your challenge is to read her comfort level, treat her for seeing the other dog, and keep her far enough away that she doesn't practice bad behavior. If you get to the point where she's OK with getting even at 20 feet parallel, restart at 15 feet parallel and repeat. I wouldn't make this exercise last more than 10 minutes, you'll lose her brain. You should get a feel for what distance is comfortable for her from other dogs. Then the challenge becomes managing her so she has as few chances to practice bad behavior as possible. Get proactive about crossing the street or turning back the other way (or both) when you see a dog on your walk, accompanied by treats. For the vet, leave her in a covered crate in the car until it's time to go into an exam room, and don't be shy about asking other dog owners to remove their dogs or distract them in the waiting room. Something like 'My dog is very dog-reactive, can you make sure your dog doesn't look at her when we come in.' People will be more receptive than you'd think.
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Mar 8, 2014 16:46
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