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Worked on some stuff at the shop today. Here's the S13 as it sat when I came in.  Time to add the temp sensor to my radiator so I can run relays for the electronic fans.  Testing out my 1/8" NPT tap against the sensor.  Turns out a threaded fuel rail standoff fits pretty good.  A threaded fuel rail standoff, a hole, some weld, and there you go! 
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Mar 9, 2014 05:41
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ultimateforce posted:A threaded fuel rail standoff, a hole, some weld, and there you go! Shouldn't the probe be immersed in coolant? Not just the tip?
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Mar 9, 2014 06:10
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 Just saw this pop up on my newsfeed on Facebook, saw the name "Raw Brokerage" and went "Oh hey...". Pretty cool stuff, getting featured by V2Lab 
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Mar 9, 2014 07:03
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OneStopShop posted:Shouldn't the probe be immersed? Not just the tip? That's what he said.  But uh, yeah, I'd agree - it needs to be a bit deeper, otherwise you're just measuring the temp of the air pocket around the sensor. That doesn't even appear to be deep enough to be "just the tip" (the tip alone would be fine, if it's actually immersed). I hate to be that backseat I know Nissan puts the (gauge, not ECU) temp sensor in the upper radiator hose neck on the FWD version of the KA - something similar would be pretty ideal, I would think - something close to where the upper hose dumps into the radiator, but low enough to where the sensor is guaranteed to be touching coolant. Anything other than having it sitting in a guaranteed air pocket. With where it's at now, it looks like the tip might be lucky to get splashed on as the upper hose empties into the radiator, unless your high point is much higher than the radiator itself (kind of like GM's "we'll put a surge tank half a mile above the radiator" approach). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 09:45
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Unless that's not the top of the radiator. Offset does seem a bit long, though.
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Mar 9, 2014 13:18
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It's the bottom of the radiator, so my logic was that it'd be flooded with coolant all the time (with the inside of the bung filled with water). I will admit it'd longer than it needed to be, I was mostly working with that I had and seeing how it turned out.
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Mar 9, 2014 14:06
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I think it should work fine as long as the set point is adjustable. I've been using the fancy vw switches with low and high outputs to trigger a 2 speed relay and fan with 1 switch.
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Mar 9, 2014 15:17
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Welp, starting the whole project over.
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Mar 9, 2014 15:33
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^ Thread title
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Mar 9, 2014 15:41
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In the bottom/sides it should be fine like that IMO.
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Mar 9, 2014 15:42
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I think you want the temp sensor to be in the top of the radiator so it is measuring the temp of the cooled coolant. That way the fan turns on if the coolant going into the motor needs cooling. At the bottom of the radiator, you're measuring the temp of hot coolant fresh out of the motor, not really a useful data point.
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Mar 10, 2014 07:49
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I understand your logic, but our mechanic's logic of "getting the temperate of the water in the block," made sense too.
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Mar 10, 2014 12:06
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I thought cooled coolant is the bottom of the rad? I'm pretty sure ka's cool the block first.
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Mar 10, 2014 15:55
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Is that a downflow radiator? If so having the sensor in the bottom is correct, assuming the hot engine coolant is coming in up top. I'm not familiar with Nissan cooling systems. If hot coolant comes in the bottom, sensor should be up top. If its a cross flow, the sensor for fan control should be on the tank opposite the hot side. In that case sensor height doesn't really matter as long as it sees coolant. Proper rad fan control uses the radiator output temp. Trying to control fans with the hot temp will ignore the effect of car speed on cooling efficiency. The mechanic is right about wanting to know the block temp, but that should be used for a gauge output.
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Mar 10, 2014 16:10
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Welp, switching to air cooled.
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Mar 10, 2014 17:31
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I am working on turbo V8 stuff, and I can't decide to do slip fit connections on the header merges or weld them in. A lot of drag cars I've seen, including the one I worked on at Mazworx, used slip fits that were welded in place.
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Mar 10, 2014 17:57
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"[Name of shop removed] Thanks for the feedback so far guys. Here's another question, if offered a $5 discount on your next purchase would anyone be willing to post reviews on google, yelp, merchant circle, etc.?" lol
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Mar 11, 2014 16:58
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Five bucks??? Holy poo poo let me just drop my pants for this stunning display of social media marketing prowess.
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Mar 11, 2014 20:48
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"Omg best shop evar!!!!!1! Got payed a 5 dolla Bill to tweet this, Yolo!" That's what I imagine they'll get for reviews.
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Mar 11, 2014 20:56
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The beat goes on at the shop. Working on a 1,000HP+ FMIC system. Not much to say other than this is going on a customer's car and I'll use what I did here to replicate more later. Garrett core, 4" outlets.    
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Mar 12, 2014 02:37
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Is the lip at the edge for a rubber hose (ingenuity!), or for more material later on when welding a pipe on (genius)?
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Mar 12, 2014 02:56
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It's a bead to have something for a clamp to rub against. You can't bead roll this thick of pipe as far as I am aware.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:22
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Crustashio posted:Is that a downflow radiator? If so having the sensor in the bottom is correct, assuming the hot engine coolant is coming in up top. I'm not familiar with Nissan cooling systems. If hot coolant comes in the bottom, sensor should be up top. The lower rad hose is always the outlet from the radiator to the water pump, cross flow or down flow, because, unless it's empty, there's always water there to pump. If the set point of the fan relay is adjustable, it doesn't really matter where the sensor is, as long as it's immersed in coolant. Mine actually has a nifty compression fitting that let's the capillary tube replace the drain petcock. (Petcock)
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Mar 12, 2014 03:23
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Crustashio posted:Is that a downflow radiator? If so having the sensor in the bottom is correct, assuming the hot engine coolant is coming in up top. I'm not familiar with Nissan cooling systems. If hot coolant comes in the bottom, sensor should be up top. The stock cooling system for the KA has a temp sensor (for the gauge) in the upper radiator hose neck. The ECU sensor (which also handles the fans) is actually mounted to the head somewhere. Hot coolant goes through the upper hose. ultimateforce posted:It's the bottom of the radiator, so my logic was that it'd be flooded with coolant all the time (with the inside of the bung filled with water). That works, I thought it was at the top when I first saw it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 03:23
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I am using an aftermarket fan controller. The stock KA uses a clutch fan.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:27
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Not in FWD trim.  Though I'd guess there's still a temp sensor in the same spot for the ECU.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:33
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Sorry I don't bother thinking about FWD engines.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:35
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And there goes my car projects again. I am getting my rates raised on my student loans, now at $1,500 a month. 
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Mar 12, 2014 18:05
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ultimateforce posted:And there goes my car projects again. I am getting my rates raised on my student loans, now at $1,500 a month. drat son, that's getting up the with mine.
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Mar 12, 2014 18:11
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I wish I made that Holdbrooks money
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Mar 12, 2014 19:08
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DENTIST CHAIR FORUM CHECK-IN.
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Mar 12, 2014 19:31
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$1500 dollars a month for student loans!?!? What the gently caress did you go to school for?
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Mar 12, 2014 19:53
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BS in Underwater Welding and Associated Components, right?
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Mar 12, 2014 20:01
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TWSS posted:$1500 dollars a month for student loans!?!? What the gently caress did you go to school for? Computer Science. I took out a bunch of small loans rather than one big one, and each payment is at least $200. It adds up. FUN FACT: Due to my shop not having the employee taxes sorted out I was on a 1099 all last year (I am on W2 now), and I owe $3,800 in taxes. What a country!
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Mar 13, 2014 02:18
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Has your education helped you with any of the CNC fab your shop is doing? Also, are you the business owner or a valued employee? Sorry for bombarding you with questions, but as a student of burning and blinding myself I think the work you do is really neat.
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Mar 13, 2014 04:55
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ultimateforce posted:Computer Science. I took out a bunch of small loans rather than one big one, and each payment is at least $200. It adds up. It's not the country's fault the shop didn't have their poo poo straight. Sorry you're having to learn that hard lesson though, I had a similar thing happen to me and tax time that year sucked.
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Mar 13, 2014 06:13
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ultimateforce posted:Computer Science. I took out a bunch of small loans rather than one big one, and each payment is at least $200. It adds up. If you get a good tax preparer you can probably a lot of poo poo off. You saved receipts, right?
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Mar 13, 2014 07:38
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leica posted:If you get a good tax preparer you can probably a lot of poo poo off. You saved receipts, right?  Too mean.
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Mar 13, 2014 12:22
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EVERYWHERE 
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TWSS posted:Has your education helped you with any of the CNC fab your shop is doing? Also, are you the business owner or a valued employee? Sorry for bombarding you with questions, but as a student of burning and blinding myself I think the work you do is really neat. You can... Use your education? No actually my CISCO certs mean jack poo poo working at the shop. 
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Mar 13, 2014 12:52
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leica posted:If you get a good tax preparer you can probably a lot of poo poo off. You saved receipts, right? I did but I guess what I have isn't worth much. All I really buy for work is the gas to get there, combined with the mileage I didn't really get that much taken off the initial hit. I own an expensive ($200) welding helmet I bought not too long ago and that didn't even effect my return's total when I put it in.
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Mar 13, 2014 12:54
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