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I was annoyed they bothered to make a Jafar mini but it didn't have a snake staff. As some examples to new mini's photographers, this is why even if you think you don't need them you always bring your panels with you! poo poo looks like a small explosion just happened stage right:   
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Mar 11, 2014 10:12
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Pacheeco posted:
I don't know why you're complaining. This model looks cool as hell!
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Mar 11, 2014 13:53
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I'm doing it. I'm getting back into tabletop gaming. I have probably a thousand bucks of unopened Orks in my mancave that have been untouched since I moved into my house, because I lost my paints, but I just dropped almost $300 yesterday on a whole shitload of Vallejo paints. I'm scared. Also, having been out of the hobby for a while, what on earth happened to Citadel paint ranges? The Foundation Paints and Washes were pretty awesome, but from what I'm seeing they just kind of threw everything to do with those out and started over with a shittier system.
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Mar 11, 2014 15:24
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:Also, having been out of the hobby for a while, what on earth happened to Citadel paint ranges? The Foundation Paints and Washes were pretty awesome, but from what I'm seeing they just kind of threw everything to do with those out and started over with a shittier system. They're still around they just renamed them.
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Mar 11, 2014 15:27
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:Also, having been out of the hobby for a while, what on earth happened to Citadel paint ranges? The Foundation Paints and Washes were pretty awesome, but from what I'm seeing they just kind of threw everything to do with those out and started over with a shittier system. In theory it's still there, they just changed the names (bases and shades respectively). In practice it seems like some of the paints are shittier, some are still okay (but you're still buying GW paint in pots which at this point is sort of a drawback itself), and some might be even better (but again, GW).
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Mar 11, 2014 15:27
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Are the Vallejo Extra Opaques a decent substitute for the old Citadel Foundations?
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Mar 11, 2014 15:29
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I'm doing it. I'm getting back into tabletop gaming. I have probably a thousand bucks of unopened Orks in my mancave that have been untouched since I moved into my house, because I lost my paints, but I just dropped almost $300 yesterday on a whole shitload of Vallejo paints. The foundations are still there. They've just been renamed as the Base range, so you get more colours and they arent limited to chalky pastel colours. The washes have became shades, which again are a massive improvement on the last lot. The new range is far far better than the old.
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Mar 11, 2014 15:58
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I picked up some Tamiya Basic Putty at Hobby Lobby over the weekend. I thought it was a two part epoxy style putty like kneaditite but it's even better. I love this stuff -- I can apply it right out of the tube to the seams on a model, smooth it with a wet finger, then sand it down and the seam is completely gone. I had an old metal Warpwolf Stalker stripped and in pieces, some time with a hobby drill, epoxy putty and the Tamiya Putty has it looking pretty sweet. No pics right now. I primarily use putty to smooth in gaps in my models, as opposed to constructing new parts, so the two part epoxy putty I have from Harbor Freight works great. After building this weekend and painting some Hordes minis, I've discovered I enjoy the modelling and painting aspect of the hobby immensely more than the playing part. Oddly, I only enjoy it if I'm painting stuff for myself -- I hate painting stuff for other people. Verdugo fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 16:19
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serious gaylord posted:The new range is far far better than the old.  For me the Citadel paint range died with the old range. The new paints are quicker to dry out and some of them (I'm looking at you Abaddon Black; how do you even gently caress up black paint  ) have had very pronounced coverage/consistency problems so it's a bit of a minefield whether you get a good batch. They are also horrible if you use an airbrush (thicker pigment particles? The old Foundations airbrushed great, but the new line clogs like hell even with Layer paints).Their advantages might be that they brought back glazes and the new Base range has non-muted colors (I actually loved the old ones as great bases for mixing/highlighting). I don't know anything about the quality of the new washes. Also, the new GW technical paints (blood, cracked earth, etc.) are good.
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Mar 11, 2014 16:45
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For a start I never would airbrush with GW paints, they're all a bit too prone to clogging due to their pigment size and carrier fluid consistency. Abaddon black is the only real shite one, Im not sure how you can gently caress up black paint but they did. I like them. I find them very easy to work with and their massive range of colour in vibrant hues mean i dont need to mix often.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:02
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Posted this in the historicals thread, but thought some of you in here might like it too:TheBlobThing posted:Had an interesting case of cocked dice during last Sunday's game of FoW:
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Mar 11, 2014 17:31
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That's a natural 7. Congrats on a successful roll!
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Mar 11, 2014 17:35
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The Sex Cannon posted:That's a natural 7. Congrats on a successful roll! It was my opponent's roll. 
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Mar 11, 2014 17:56
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TheBlobThing posted:Posted this in the historicals thread, but thought some of you in here might like it too:  Pierzak posted:I finally meet someone who likes the new range! Would you let me dissect your brain?
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Mar 11, 2014 17:59
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will blow your mind.
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I'm no PV but I'd say that limiting yourself to only one line is silly, as is completely refusing to use another. I've transitioned over to P3 for the most part, but still use plenty of GW paints. Their new black is indeed awful, as are their metallics in my opinion (pouring out a virtual 40 for my bro Boltgun Metal). But their washes and glazes are excellent. There are other shades I still use, including the new graveyard earth, for example. I haven't tried the new technical paints, but they seem good from what I've seen and heard. Otherwise, I use P3 since I like the consistency much more, and they have some really interesting shades you don't really see in most other paint lines. Every painter should have Menoth White Highlight, for example. Easily the best paint for mixing highlights that I've come across. I also really enjoy Arcane Blue for super cheat-mode glowy/magic style effects. PV will come in and talk about his weird hipster paints that he buys in dark alleys in St. Louis, or some poo poo.
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Mar 11, 2014 18:12
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Fyrbrand posted:I'm no PV but I'd say that limiting yourself to only one line is silly, as is completely refusing to use another. I've transitioned over to P3 for the most part, but still use plenty of GW paints. Their new black is indeed awful, as are their metallics in my opinion (pouring out a virtual 40 for my bro Boltgun Metal). But their washes and glazes are excellent. There are other shades I still use, including the new graveyard earth, for example. I haven't tried the new technical paints, but they seem good from what I've seen and heard. Otherwise, I use P3 since I like the consistency much more, and they have some really interesting shades you don't really see in most other paint lines. Every painter should have Menoth White Highlight, for example. Easily the best paint for mixing highlights that I've come across. I also really enjoy Arcane Blue for super cheat-mode glowy/magic style effects. This. Just using one brand is silly. I love VMA, but they lack the more 'out there' colours that mean I still turn to GW's layer paints for. Similarly with P3 menoth white highlight is almost mandatory. I will disagree on the metallics though. I still prefer GW's golds and bronzes over anything thats not alcohol based.
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Mar 11, 2014 18:36
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Verdugo posted:I picked up some Tamiya Basic Putty at Hobby Lobby over the weekend. I thought it was a two part epoxy style putty like kneaditite but it's even better. I love this stuff -- I can apply it right out of the tube to the seams on a model, smooth it with a wet finger, then sand it down and the seam is completely gone. I had an old metal Warpwolf Stalker stripped and in pieces, some time with a hobby drill, epoxy putty and the Tamiya Putty has it looking pretty sweet. No pics right now. Hm, that sounds like a better option than green stuff, but on the other hand I don't want to support Hobby Lobby's regressive anti-employee healthcare policies. Is it this stuff? http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Putty-Basic-Type-32g/dp/B0073T7PXG
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Mar 11, 2014 18:54
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So, is Vajello Extra Opaque a good Foundation replacement? I'm interest to know, too. Funky Bunch Wikia  TheBlobThing posted:Posted this in the historicals thread, but thought some of you in here might like it too: Uh, that maple leaf had better represent 6 because Canada is never a failure. 
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Mar 11, 2014 18:56
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serious gaylord posted:This. Yeah their gold/bronze range might still be ok. It's been awhile since I've looked at them. I'm mostly just bummed out at the new silver metallics. In partcular Leadbelcher, I think it's called? Hot garbage compared to Boltgun. The other shades didn't seem any better.
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Mar 11, 2014 19:01
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Post 9-11 User posted:So, is Vajello Extra Opaque a good Foundation replacement? I'm interest to know, too. Funky Bunch Wikia Don't worry, they do. And Canadians in FoW are completely awesome. Also, to contribute to paint chat, I also use many different paints. I loove VMC for their coverage. But for fantasy and sci-fi, I often lack the crazy colours of GW paints. Never really liked VGC though, I think the ones I've tried have had even worse coverage than GW paints.
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Mar 11, 2014 20:07
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gilljoy posted:Battlefoam? Is it worth it? I cam get the pp hordes bag and trollblood foam for £130 delivered, not sure if I should get that or just buy a kr case, no custom foam from them though LumberingTroll posted:Well, I spent today stripping out my utility room that had be doubling as a storage room for my unfinished models and terrain. Kommando posted:Crossposting from GBS. 
berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 20:28
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berzerkmonkey posted:
I think my wife would be unhappy with the addition to the family, but I suppose I could use a fourth kid, especially if that addition was a gamer  My three children are still too young, the eldest being 8. Though some boardgames are possible this year. Here is some progress on the overhaul of my "dungeon" also known as the basement, or "Daddys domain"      Still a lot more setup and organization to do, but we only moved into our new house last June, and I have been stupid busy with the studio.
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Mar 11, 2014 20:38
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There is only one word that can describe that, and that word is mancave. That is truly an amazing thing. 
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Mar 11, 2014 20:43
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Just starting to prime some stuff with my airbrush after not having used it for a while, and I was wondering something. Should I be taking off the needle guard from the front of my airbrush when I'm painting? I'm finding that paint is piling up in the tip because of it, and its causing it to get clogged more often and sputter. Is this the cause of the problem or should I be looking elsewhere? Edit: VVVVVV just finished cleaning up my priming, and that was a much nicer experience. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 21:28
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Yes - remove it.
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Mar 11, 2014 21:34
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Does anyone know of a good commission painter in the UK? I wanted to paint up Shadow Captain Korvydae for a friend but I feel I might not have enough time (17 days) to paint it nicely.
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Mar 11, 2014 22:44
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ijyt posted:Does anyone know of a good commission painter in the UK? I wanted to paint up Shadow Captain Korvydae for a friend but I feel I might not have enough time (17 days) to paint it nicely. How much you willing to spend?
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Mar 11, 2014 22:50
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Holy poo poo I hate metal miniatures. See that little pouch thing? That goes on the back of the saddle. Those two pins are supposed to glue together (its not broke, I bought two and they are both the same) and support that whole banner. This is the finished model  I want to ditch the banner all together, but I'm going to use him for my BSB. Not to mention transporting this thing without it breaking. Jesus loving christ.
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Mar 11, 2014 22:54
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Not a viking posted:Holy poo poo I hate metal miniatures. I accidentally knocked my gyrocopter off of my desk last night, but it was the plastic one so only one propeller came loose 
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Mar 11, 2014 22:57
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These last couple of posts reminds me that I have a couple of staves for Necrons that I need to fix. What's the best way to fix staffs to clenched fists and what not? Super glue has been a nightmare and isn't working. I'm using Gorilla glue btw. Do I need some other brand? Do I need to pin these things together? LumberingTroll posted:Amazing studio pictures I am in awe. Jealous and envious awe. AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 23:03
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Not a viking posted:Holy poo poo I hate metal miniatures. Why would you design the cast that way?  It almost looks like it'd be worth it to cut/dremel out the pole on both pieces and replace with with a single replacement length of brass or something.
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Mar 11, 2014 23:04
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Not a viking posted:Holy poo poo I hate metal miniatures. Don't torture yourself too much on this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Wf3ZmhXuOc Soldering is the only sane way to handle that crap. A soldering iron is pretty cheap to get, reasonably easy to use, and will result in a bond which is fairly strong. It's exactly the same idea as plastic glue; you're trying to weld pieces together. In addition to what this guy is recommending, you might want to try some flux. You apply the flux to both sides of the joint, then melt the solder onto the joint, or transfer it on the tip of the iron. It's a little funny to me that sometimes, people get into this hobby working with metal miniatures without ever having picked up a soldering iron for years and years. To me, if you're not dealing with plastic or wood all the time, it's basically required. Though I supposed it's going away as a typical part of the toy soldier hobby, because of the proliferation of plastics and resin. Anyway don't be shy. It's remarkably easy to do, and certainly no worse than trying to glue or pin it. If you're *very* ambitious, you could try a 'polectomy', and replace it with brass rod, but I'm not sure the end result would have done you any favors in terms of being easier to deal with. It really just as the virtue of being the strongest final structure. Edit: one technique I saw my mother using when she restored stained glass windows, was to put flux on the joint, then touch the unmelted solder to the joint, and finally touch the soldering iron to the solder, so that you don't have to carry it from one place to another, or worry about it dripping in the wrong spot. Though she was also really good at it, and I don't know if that's why she did it that way. TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 23:10
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40k thread crosspost. Could I get some feedback on this thing I made last night:    I want a 30K Imperial Army compliment for my Iron Warriors. I was thinking space Cossacks, but since that's pretty overdone I went with a feral trench look. I figure that would compliment the legion style. Does this style work or should I add or remove something? Do they look 'old' enough to be 30k vs 40k?
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Mar 12, 2014 01:39
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BULBASAUR posted:40k thread crosspost. Could I get some feedback on this thing I made last night: Looks great, I like the way it draws influences from 40k units and even old rogue trader imperial army models. You can imagine your 30k version fitting into that develpment. Ask yourself this though: 'Can I be bothered to make hundreds of these in different styles, with all the different weapons option? Am I going to go mad from modelling the same fiddly thing over and over?' Seriously though, I like it, but think about how easy it will be to make lots.
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Mar 12, 2014 02:01
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Pilgrimski posted:Looks great, I like the way it draws influences from 40k units and even old rogue trader imperial army models. You can imagine your 30k version fitting into that develpment. It's incredibly cool. A breath of fresh air and tone-perfect for the 30k setting. Don't list to this guy. Don't think about the human cost. Love only the Emperor. Be a beacon for his presence. Expurgate the impure. Failure to convert is heresy.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:21
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AndyElusive posted:These last couple of posts reminds me that I have a couple of staves for Necrons that I need to fix. You can pin alone, which is fiddly and/or you can find a drill bit that is the same size as the pole or staff and drill yourself an indentation to use, which is much easier. When you say Gorilla Glue, do you mean actual Gorilla Glue or the Gorilla brand cyanoacrylate glue? If it's the latter that's fine. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 04:02
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serious gaylord posted:I still prefer GW's golds and bronzes over anything thats not alcohol based. I have a Sycorax Bronze I bought in July and used berzerkmonkey posted:I'm going to be the unpopular voice here, but I like Battlefoam. They are expensive, but their bags and trays are of a good quality. I'm not a fan of the OD Green that many of the bags come in, but whatever. Yeah, you can make the stuff yourself cheaper, but do you really want to lug around a 12 pound metal AN/PVS case to your games? If you can wait until the holidays, they always do 20% off for Black Friday as well. Seems to me that there's nothing inherently wrong with the Battlefoam product, and they have a whole lot more custom stuff in the store, the main query is: Do you want to give your money to a company with delivery on time issues run by an abusive litigious rear end in a top hat? If you're ok with that or really don't care, go with Battlefoam. If not, try someone else.
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Mar 12, 2014 04:24
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oops
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Mar 12, 2014 04:57
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:Which of these should I use for Brazen Claws vehicles? Anyone?
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Mar 12, 2014 05:34
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Neither, just quarter them like this guy: http://wfarcadia.blogspot.com/2012/03/brazen-claws-completed.html
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Mar 12, 2014 06:11
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