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Uncle Enzo posted:I've sawed off the tops of 2x4's with a table saw, I just got a 14$ roller stand from HF and used that for an outfeed, worked great. too late, already glued up
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Mar 10, 2014 07:01
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rotor posted:heya guys Plywood or hardboard isn't the worst option if you get something half-decent. Obviously you won't get the sweet planed down 2x3 edges, but it provides a nice cheap sacrificial surface that you can always replace later if/when it gets all beat up and covered in god knows what. And if you change your mind, just rip it off and plane it down sometime in the future.
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Mar 10, 2014 07:59
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Plywood or hardboard isn't the worst option if you get something half-decent. Obviously you won't get the sweet planed down 2x3 edges agree, and its the backup option. I'm just weighing my choices right now.
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Mar 10, 2014 08:21
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I vote router sled.
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Mar 10, 2014 12:45
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Frogmanv2 posted:I vote router sled. Because really, who doesn't like sledding? It's fun! I think someone linked these bits earlier, might take a bit of time off the job I guess: http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z
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Mar 10, 2014 16:48
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rotor posted:i guess the comedy options are: Hand plane, shouldn't take more than an hour, or two if you suck at it. Plane across, then diagonal to, the grain until flat, then a few passes with the grain to smooth. That's how I flattened my 2'x3' workbench. I thought it would be arduous but wasn't. All I had then was a cheap Stanley #4 but a jack plane would be better. I've since flattened several tables the same way, it's really not bad once you get the hang of it. This will work if you want it reasonably flat. If you want it dead flat then a torsion box top would be better.
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Mar 10, 2014 17:08
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Not sure if this is the place to ask this but since it involves wood furniture I figured here would be the best bet. I'm trying to match a yard sale desk I got to look like a bed frame. First I cannot tell if its painted or stained or what. I went to the local hardware store and they said from the images it was probably painted and then covered in a satin varnish. The color I want it to be is a black. If you want me to provide pictures I can but I don't know if the actual look of the frame will come through in the picture. I also plan to replace the top of the desk with a new piece of harder wood since the existing one is rather uneven. From reading wormil's post though maybe hand planing it would work in this instance and I wouldn't have to get the new piece. I have access to a gravity feed sprayer so restrictions really on how to apply it. I am fairly inexperienced with most of this though.
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Mar 10, 2014 23:08
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BAILOUT MCQUACK! posted:Not sure if this is the place to ask this but since it involves wood furniture I figured here would be the best bet. I'm trying to match a yard sale desk I got to look like a bed frame. I guess you don't want to simply spray paint it? You could strip the old finish and dye it black but that seems like a lot of work; or maybe lightly sand the old finish and spray varnish with black dye added.
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Mar 11, 2014 02:35
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wormil posted:I guess you don't want to simply spray paint it? You could strip the old finish and dye it black but that seems like a lot of work; or maybe lightly sand the old finish and spray varnish with black dye added. 2 of those options I didn't even know were possible. Like I said most of this is entirely new to me. I tried using spray paint first but realized the color wasn't the same black no mater what brand I picked so I had to color match it and bought some satin enamel. I guess at this point I just want to know if I am going in the right direction. I'm probably also over thinking this but every method I have tried has come out with poor results.
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Mar 11, 2014 02:53
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Realistically you aren't going to be able to achieve a perfect match, if for no other reason than that the parts you aren't painting are considerably more weathered than the parts you are.
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Mar 11, 2014 03:24
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An ipe mallet seemed like a good idea and maybe it is, but the stuff is so hard to work. About 2 swipes with a hand plane and it's time to sharpen, ridiculous. You can scrape dried glue off like melamine, the chisel doesn't scratch the wood unless you mean to. On the plus side, you can torque the clamps, even C clamps, and it doesn't dent the wood. Anyway, I got it reasonably flat and glued each side to the handle one at a time. It has to be clamped in 2 directions and so takes a bit of fussing. Last board is glued on and drying. Tomorrow I'll toss it on the lathe and see if it makes me cry.  Despite marking the sides I still made a boo-boo and glued one board on the wrong way, you can see the little saw cut on the end there -- that was supposed to be on the handle side where it would be turned away. 
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Mar 11, 2014 03:46
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Mar 12, 2014 04:18
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Very nice. And how often did you have to stop to sharpen your tools?
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Mar 12, 2014 05:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Very nice. And how often did you have to stop to sharpen your tools? Not much, I only have carbide and carbon steel, no hss, so I used carbide tools on the ipe and carbon steel on the maple. The ipe wasn't difficult to cut but it was difficult to get a nice finish because carbide causes more tear out. Burned the lines with a piece of Formica, much nicer result than wire. Also the first time I turned while using a dust collector. I just dangled the hose near the tool rest and it sucked up 95% of the shavings and all of the sanding dust. I prefer an oil finish on tool handles but don't like the look of oil on maple so I used blonde shellac instead. Tomorrow I'll buff the shellac back to a satin finish with steel wool. I'm curious what the final weight will be, my guess is 22 - 24 oz.
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Mar 12, 2014 06:31
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17 oz. It lost a little more weight than I expected.
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Mar 13, 2014 02:44
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wormil posted:17 oz. It lost a little more weight than I expected. I made a similar looking furniture mallet out of a solid piece of oak in class to demonstrate to my student how to use a lathe. First question was, "which end goes in the rear end?"
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Mar 13, 2014 03:30
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Sideways.
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Mar 13, 2014 03:34
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Hopefully the same end you use to smash out his teeth.
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Mar 13, 2014 08:42
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That is a bad rear end mallet.
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Mar 13, 2014 14:19
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Wow that's a beautiful mallet. Makes me want to drink the punch and learn to turn. But not yet.... I am however awaiting the arrival of my lie Nielsen carcass saw <3. Tool porn totally does it for me.
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Mar 13, 2014 14:22
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Question. After posting the mallet on facebook a couple people asked to buy one. I'm about to find out if they are serious ... $60 sound about right? Looking online doesn't help. What would you expect to pay?
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Mar 13, 2014 18:24
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$60 for a handmade hardwood mallet? I would expect closer to $150. How many hours did you put into it?
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Mar 13, 2014 18:28
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Yeah, hours + materials (+ tool deprecation, but that's probably not much), and don't short-change yourself on your time. Making things for myself or as a gift is one thing; making them for sale is completely different (at least for me) in terms of how much I enjoy the work.
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Mar 13, 2014 19:10
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wormil posted:Hopefully the same end you use to smash out his teeth. I just pointed to my foot and said, "no this is the proper tool for that job" <cue 3 second silent stare>. For the most part my students that I teach tech to are pretty good and we have a pretty casual class environment and humour is appreciated.
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Mar 13, 2014 19:50
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Remember, it's wood and hand-made, so that makes it "artisinal." Price accordingly.
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Mar 13, 2014 19:55
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ImplicitAssembler posted:$60 for a handmade hardwood mallet? I would expect closer to $150. I didn't track hours but made it over 3 days (hobby time not work days). The lumber cost (if I had to buy it) is about $5.75. If I had a jointer the prep would go much faster, flattening was the most time. But I wasn't in the mode of thinking production and doing it the quickest way. If I were in the right NY bazaar with pocket heavy tourists and hipster locals, I might get $150 but that's not realistic in my situation. Chris Pye "approved" mallets are among the more expensive I've found and they sell for less than $150.
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Mar 13, 2014 22:11
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Most high quality commercial mallets go for around $30-60 range, but those are production pieces. Factor in your time, materials and a mark up of anywhere between 15-50% and you'll probably be fine. For my stuff I generally rate my time at about $20/hr (I don't like to go lower, but I often do,) and see where that puts my final price. If it seems outrageous, I'll knock it down a bit, but there's not much point in making stuff for people if you can't be properly compensated for it. I know that personal enjoyment can be payment in itself, but that lessens when you're working on the tenth unit that you're making maybe $2 worth of profit on. Personally, looking at it, I'd say AT LEAST $60, but I'd shoot for the $75-$100 range. If you have several people interested, make multiples to cut down on labour costs.
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Mar 14, 2014 00:32
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Skinny Bins posted:Most high quality commercial mallets go for around $30-60 range, but those are production pieces. Factor in your time, materials and a mark up of anywhere between 15-50% and you'll probably be fine. For my stuff I generally rate my time at about $20/hr (I don't like to go lower, but I often do,) and see where that puts my final price. If it seems outrageous, I'll knock it down a bit, but there's not much point in making stuff for people if you can't be properly compensated for it. I know that personal enjoyment can be payment in itself, but that lessens when you're working on the tenth unit that you're making maybe $2 worth of profit on. That's what I've been doing with some custom jewellery fittings recently. $20/hr + material - a bit because she's a friend.
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Mar 14, 2014 01:37
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I offered them at $60, one is nibbling and one swam away. [edit; she bit] Although I have no idea what she will do with a mallet. [edit2; and she ended up buying a bunch of other stuff I've made] Part of my issue is there are lots of things I want to build that we (my household) don't need or necessarily want, but if I can build and sell then everyone wins. For whatever reason I'm fascinated by tables. I wish I could open a table store, make all sorts of tables and sell them. I would probably name it, The Table Store. Seriously. And yes, I am weird. wormil fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Mar 14, 2014 |
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Mar 14, 2014 02:54
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Typically if you want to sell something like a furniture mallet for more than $30 your customer has to meet the requirement of knowing what one is (background in woodworking), needs one (they do woodworking), but inexplicably didn't make one of their own. Last summer I was selling handmade rolling pins, small bowls and cutting boards. The average price of a pin was $25, the small bowls were $10-15, and the cutting boards were $30. Selling for a price that doesn't translate into minimum wage is difficult because people can get a lot of that stuff that looks nearly as nice, for a fraction of the price. Like wormil said, rich tourists are your best bet.
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Mar 14, 2014 06:39
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I have limited shop time and prefer to spend it making furniture than tools. I bought a Blue Spruce Toolworks 16oz mallet a while ago - $80 and its awesome. http://www.bluesprucetools.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=MLTS
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Mar 14, 2014 15:34
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dja98 posted:I have limited shop time and prefer to spend it making furniture than tools. Been there. I used to think it was silly that anyone would spend shop time making tools. Since then I've made all the furniture we want right now and heirloom quality furniture is tough to sell for it's value. So I'm trying new things, making tools that work and look better than anything I've bought, small bowls and other lathe-y things, next up are boxes and chests to see how that goes, and I'm enjoying it all just as much or maybe more than I did furniture.
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Mar 14, 2014 17:06
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I recently bought a 120 year old house with over two dozen 120 year old wood windows. They range from "needs to be restained on the inside and repainted on the outisde" to "sash literally fell apart and glass is everywhere". There are cheesy and mostly warped/failed frame aluminum triple track storm windows caulked to the outside. So I'm rapidly finding myself way over my head, needing to learn to repair wood windows, rebuild windowsills, and build new wood frame screens and storms. Is there anyone in this thread with experience doing it or knows good comprehensive guides for this?
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Mar 14, 2014 19:03
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Educate me about wood lathes: I have one or two large tools I would like to acquire before my wife cuts off my spending (or worse, lol), one of which happens to be a decent wood lathe. My dad has a classic 1940's something, but it's a good 2.5h drive to his place. Ideally I'm wanting either something vintage (like an older craftsman/delta/rockwell), or a newer variable speed/outfeed for bowl turning (Grizzly/Jet/PM?). I would love a PM 3520, but I don't have the coin to drop on something like that. Budget is around $1k with basic tooling.
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Mar 14, 2014 19:24
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I think your best bet under $1k is either Delta or Jet for new or you can probably get a sweet vintage lathe but that will depend on what is available. The downside to vintage is it may not have variable speed or have a clunky mechanism. Variable speed is awesome and you definitely want it.
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Mar 14, 2014 20:33
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I would be more then comfortable retrofitting a older lathe with a 1hp 3ph motor and VFD- it adds a bit extra ( $170 for the VFD, have the motor), but I'm not sure what to look for in these older lathes. I've got some great options locally it looks. http://eugene.craigslist.org/tld/4372634477.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/tls/4364149998.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/4374013000.html the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Mar 14, 2014 |
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Mar 14, 2014 20:47
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With a $1,000 budget, none of those especially excite me although they all appear to be good lathes. The Jet has a Reeves drive which some people dislike. I wouldn't mind having a Delta like the 2nd one but I wouldn't pay $800 for it even with the accessories and duplicator, though it might be worth it. Not sure about the first lathe without looking it up. If it were my money I'd be leaning hard toward a new Delta 46-460 unless you want to turn longer spindles. You can add variable speed with a DC motor for much less than a VFD but I think you lose more torque at lower speeds. I've been using a 1hp DC motor for awhile and torque hasn't been a problem but my lathe has a 9" swing, also I think most of the new lathes come with DC motors. wormil fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Mar 14, 2014 |
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Mar 14, 2014 21:47
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I happen to have a Pacific Scientific treadmill motor kicking around here too. I like the Delta/Rockwell and I'd buy it if it was closer to $500. I'll check out the 46-460. I would like to turn new railings at some point and bowls. Maybe I'm asking too much from a starter lathe.
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Mar 15, 2014 02:45
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Man, I'm on vacation right now on the west coast of Vancouver island (Tofino) and it seems like it could be a wood workers dream out here. Posting from my phone and I didn't take any pics yet anyway but the place where we just ate dinner had solid wood table tops about 3 inches thick, 3-4 feet wide and 5+ feet long, and they didn't appear to be glued/joined up. As in they were all cut from cross sections of absolutely huge logs. The wood types seemed to vary, our table was some kind of soft wood, others were maybe cedar. I'm not sure but I think they may cut them out of driftwood. The place we ate yesterday had beautiful rounded picnic tables outside and every other place we stop at seems to have wonderful wood accents and details everywhere.
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Mar 15, 2014 05:31
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Stultus Maximus posted:I recently bought a 120 year old house with over two dozen 120 year old wood windows. They range from "needs to be restained on the inside and repainted on the outisde" to "sash literally fell apart and glass is everywhere". There are cheesy and mostly warped/failed frame aluminum triple track storm windows caulked to the outside. So I'm rapidly finding myself way over my head, needing to learn to repair wood windows, rebuild windowsills, and build new wood frame screens and storms. Is there anyone in this thread with experience doing it or knows good comprehensive guides for this? This seems to have been skipped over in lathe-chat, but Cassells Carpentry and Joinery is available for free, and goes into great detail about making windows starting on page 404. You can also watch The Woodwright's Shop. There have been several episodes dealing with making sashes. I just finished building some windows for a customer, two single hung windows and a large box window. I had the benefit of a shaper to cut all the profiles, but if you're not too picky about what the inside profile is, you could just chamfer it with a hand plane, or use whatever router bit you have. The number one piece of advice I can give you is to pick good wood. It needs to be straight grained, with no knots. It'll make your life so much easier.
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Mar 15, 2014 14:20
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