|
mr. stefan posted:-I like that it actually has focus distance markings rather than just expecting you to guess like some of the other (admittedly low-end) lenses I've owned.
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 00:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:30 |
|
|
Just bought this cheap 85/2 for $150. The Vivitar is marginally cheaper but the body on it looked like rear end compared to this. Will be using on my A7 arrrrrrr
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 02:32
|
|
|
I have a question about Adorama's rating system. I'm looking at an older film camera and they have one with an E rating, but that only mentions the lens in their rating breakdown. The info for used items says quote:Adorama sells high quality used equipment that is physically examined before we purchase it for resale. Each product is conservatively rated by condition and include the basic components needed for operation. I'm assuming that means it's cool? There's a bunch of these on ebay/etsy that just say things like "the shutter fires" but that doesn't mean poo poo and I'm not parting with my money there, I know Adorama's ratings are usually even quite conservative, and I'm pretty much 90% buying it from them but I want to be absolutely sure that if they're giving it that grade then the wiring is good, no battery corrosion, film advances, etc.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 03:16
|
|
|
Red Star Baldgreg posted:I have a question about Adorama's rating system. I'm looking at an older film camera and they have one with an E rating, but that only mentions the lens in their rating breakdown. The info for used items says Specifically, which camera body? Some have like ~known issues~ and some are tanks that you couldn't break if you tried. Also film body issues are rarely wiring or corrosion or something (which are pretty easily fixable), it's stuff like "are the shutter speeds accurate" and "are the seals not completely hosed."
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 03:27
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:Specifically, which camera body? Some have like ~known issues~ and some are tanks that you couldn't break if you tried. Yashica Electro 35. I've spent all day looking at mostly ebay/etsy links and every one of them gives me pause, I'd much rather go with Adorama. I'll be getting the battery adapter from here as well: http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/battery.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 03:30
|
|
|
Red Star Baldgreg posted:Yashica Electro 35. I've spent all day looking at mostly ebay/etsy links and every one of them gives me pause, I'd much rather go with Adorama. I'll be getting the battery adapter from here as well: http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/battery.html Yeah even if it costs you a couple extra bucks I'd go with Adorama on that one, and that's a drat nice camera also. I doubt they'd put their name on idiot garbage that didn't work. I'd buy a gimmick camera like a Mavica or something off eBay, but unless the seller had a REALLY solid history, spending the few bucks to buy from someone reputable is probably worth it. Edit: God drat your new av is awesome. SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Mar 13, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 03:35
|
|
|
Adorama's return policy is solid. Plus you can just call them on the phone and ask about it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 04:00
|
|
|
800peepee51doodoo posted:Adorama's return policy is solid. Plus you can just call them on the phone and ask about it. I'm local too so I could literally just bring it into the shop, it's pretty much a no-brainer for me but I wanted to be sure
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 04:02
|
|
|
I'd only pick up the Yashica Electro 35 if I could return/exchange it. It has known issues with the 'pad of death' design flaw which causes the camera meter to malfunction and not work at all. Although the camera still fires without a working meter at 1/500.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 05:12
|
|
|
Red Star Baldgreg posted:I'm local too so I could literally just bring it into the shop, it's pretty much a no-brainer for me but I wanted to be sure Mest0r posted:I'd only pick up the Yashica Electro 35 if I could return/exchange it. It has known issues with the 'pad of death' design flaw which causes the camera meter to malfunction and not work at all. Although the camera still fires without a working meter at 1/500. Sounds like he has it covered 
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 05:31
|
|
|
Camera purchased, so we shall see. I also bought one of those Arista all in one development kits, even though the OP of the Film thread had a great breakdown I figured I'd make it easy on myself starting out with the kit. I look forward to posting scans of my lovely shots at some point in the near future.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2014 06:06
|
|
|
I have a few of the new Sony FF E mount lenses that I want to sell. Currently they(Sony) are running a $200 discount on them when you buy new with camera which has driven private sale prices down accordingly. Should I hold off on selling mine until after the discount period is over or has history proven that these prices never really recover?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 17:02
|
|
|
Honestly, the Olympus 35RC crushes the Electro 35. It's way smaller, it can work in both manual and auto and I find that it's much quieter in operation than the Electro 35. The Electro 35 is actually disappointingly huge, especially in comparison to SLRs like the Pentax ME Super.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 17:03
|
|
|
RD>RC, but I agree.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 17:13
|
|
|
Time has soured me on the Electro 35 as well. It's huge, most need the pad of death replaced at this point, and it's just an uninspiring camera overall. There's nothing actually bad about it, but for the same money you can get smaller cameras that do the same thing just as well, or equal-sized cameras with faster lenses, especially ones with mechanical shutters that won't crap out because some nylon pad rotted away. I'd rather use an Olympus XA, Rollei 35, Lynx 5000, or Lynx 14.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 18:29
|
|
|
I have 2 serviced Electro 35s. One black, one silver. However, this has got to be one of my fav fixed lens RFs: Vivitar 35ES which according to the internet is the same as the Minolta 7sII.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 18:58
|
|
|
It meters like the Canonet (you have to replace the lens cap or else the battery drains) right? That's the one thing I really hate about those cameras because gently caress using lens caps but otherwise small fixed-lens rangefinders like that own.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:47
|
|
|
 New Sigma 50 1.4 Art rumoured to be under $800http://petapixel.com/2014/03/18/sigmas-official-dealer-belarus-says-50mm-art-lens-will-cost-790/?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=pulsenews 
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2014 21:12
|
|
|
I recently started renting some studio space, and have this rather interesting piece of gear An overhead box full of motors and rollers, wired up to this awesome
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2014 23:59
|
|
|
I posted about this subject a few pages back but have done many more hours of research since and have a slightly more specific question now. I am traveling for a very long period of time in South America (6+ months) and will be doing stills and video work for various non-profits, a few paid gigs, and some tech incubators. Personal use as well. So we're talking 50/50 on the stills/video front here. I have settled on either the GH3 or 70d. I have no glass for either as I sold everything after getting an X100 a few years ago, so I'm starting from scratch. My questions (especially for those who have tried or worked with both, or someone else has had one on a shoot): 1. Which camera would you go with, if you had no glass, for the best stills to video ratio? 2. Which systems lenses are going to be less expensive to get into knowing I want to get a few top of the line lenses? Comparable? For example Olympus has some amazing lenses like the 12mm 2.0, 45mm 1.8, and 75mm 1.8. Pana has a few nice ones as well (20mm 1.7, 25mm 1.4, 100mm-300mm 4.0-5.6). I haven't done as much research on the 70d equivalents but I am still intrigued by the camera. 3. If you answer 70d, can you give me an example of some equivalent lenses to the ones I mentioned above? Many of them retail anywhere from $300 - $1000 (used prices are MUCH more reasonable). My high end (give or take) is around $2,200 for glass (used is fine) and I want to cover the general "holy trinity" range, with 1 - 2 specialties being (but not critical, more for fun) an ultra-wide and an insane telephoto like the 100mm-300m olympus I menttioned (which translates to a 200mm-600mm lens due to m4/3, which is insane considering it's around $450 used). Graphics fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Mar 20, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 05:14
|
|
|
Nikon might be a better deal than either because there's tons of old Nikon screw-drive lenses that work perfectly fine but can be had for cheap on the secondary market. In the last year I got the following: Sigma 17-40 2.8-4 $130 in UG condition on KEH (glass is marked up but I can't tell as far as photos/videos go) Nikon 35 2D $330 new at B&H Nikon 50 1.4G $370 new at B&H Nikon 50 1.8D $100 used/like new on Craigslist Nikon 85 1.8D $100 used from a goon Tokina 80-200 2.8 $230 in BGN condition (it looks like new and was just missing the caps and hood) The Nikon primes are obviously way way sharper than the zooms but when you're shooting video the difference isn't noticeable, and investment there has been $1260 so there's still room to buy something like a 70-200 f4 VR or 135 f2 DC instead of the cheap third party portrait zoom, plus you can find something like a used D600 for not a ton more than a new GH3 these days and get the advantage of full frame and increased low light sensitivity. You also won't be locked into m43 glass which IMO doesn't have a lot of utility if you want to move towards full frame or switch systems for video (Canon and Nikon glass are a lot more useful for video especially). All that being said, if you're looking for something that balances well between video and photo the GH3 is the best choice. There's more functionality in the video side of shooting and the image is much much sharper, and your kit overall will weigh a lot less and be smaller which might be an advantage if you're moving around a lot. I'd probably go with the Oly 17 f1.8, Panasonic 25 1.4, and the Pansonic 35-100 2.8. I don't think going with the 70D is a good choice, you're almost certainly better off sucking up the higher cost of entry and getting a 6D and running around with a 24-105 and maybe a 70-200 f4 L IS since they're both image stabilized, sharp, and the camera can shoot at higher ISO's without looking nasty. Along the way you can probably find cheapo used 35 f2's and 50 1.8's to get some bokehs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 05:55
|
|
|
1st AD posted:I don't think going with the 70D is a good choice, you're almost certainly better off sucking up the higher cost of entry and getting a 6D and running around with a 24-105 and maybe a 70-200 f4 L IS since they're both image stabilized, sharp, and the camera can shoot at higher ISO's without looking nasty. Along the way you can probably find cheapo used 35 f2's and 50 1.8's to get some bokehs. From what I've read 6D is not well liked for video because of its aliasing/moire/audio issues (could be completely wrong on this, but just what I've read the last few days). The 70d seems to be getting pretty great reviews however, especially because of that ridiculous focus system, touch screen, and little things like the rotating screen (which the GH3 has as well). That said, the 6D does have Magic Lantern compatibility, which neither the 70D or GH3 have. I'll checkout some example video work and see what's up, still a good suggestion. Edit: After checking out various 70d vs 6d videos/reviews/comparisons, it seems like low light is the big difference (other than small stuff like the auto-focus system and touch screen). Other than long exposures at night, low light isn't really a priority for the work I'll be doing... still the 6d is tempting. Edit2: After checking out popular lenses for the 6d I'm worried it's not an option at all. The comparable lengths and speeds are 2x the cost, easily. Graphics fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Mar 20, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 06:13
|
|
|
The fact that the 70D has better AF than the 6D really makes me wonder whats going to happen to 6D resale values once Canon produces a 6D mark 2. Could they fall low enough to rival new Rebel prices? Only time will tell...
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 13:23
|
|
|
The 5D classic held its value pretty well for the longest time. In the end, it's still a full frame DSLR in a vast ocean of APS-C DSLRs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 17:56
|
|
|
The 6D + 24-105L is actually on-sale for USD $1999 right now. I actually pulled the trigger on it earlier this morning, then cancelled the order. I completely forgot how bad the Canadian dollar is now. After the exchange rate, it's exactly the same as Canadian retail prices at full-price.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 22:29
|
|
|
I'm curious for those that chose to go with a 6D over a 5D Mark III: what was the deciding factor? Price differential? Features upgrade not worth it? Don't need the bells/whistles?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 22:38
|
|
|
5D3 is nearly twice the price of a 6D so I'm guessing that's a big factor.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 22:58
|
|
|
mclifford82 posted:I'm curious for those that chose to go with a 6D over a 5D Mark III: what was the deciding factor? Price differential? Features upgrade not worth it? Don't need the bells/whistles? I went from a Canon XS to a 6D last November. For me, the main determining factor vs a 5D3 was definitely the price - the 5D3 is ~$1600 more than the 6D in Canada; as Quantum of Phallus mentioned, not quite double as I got the 6D for $1849 + tax. The autofocus in the 6D wasn't really a concern for me considering I was coming from an XS. General consensus online seems to be that the AF on the 6D is a step up from the 5D2 so I figured it's good enough for me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 23:51
|
|
|
mclifford82 posted:I'm curious for those that chose to go with a 6D over a 5D Mark III: what was the deciding factor? Price differential? Features upgrade not worth it? Don't need the bells/whistles? Image quality wise not a huge difference, and if you only use the centre point to recompose the image then all the crazy AF stuff on the 5D3 isn't often useful. Plus it's a bit lighter, and has wifi.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 23:53
|
|
|
tropical posted:For me, the main determining factor vs a 5D3 was definitely the price - the 5D3 is ~$1600 more than the 6D in Canada; Exactly. I'd never consider the 5D3 because for that $1,600 I could buy one AMAZING lens or two really good lenses, which are going to do more for my photos than a slightly better body with a few extra features. I'd have bought a 6D already, but from what I can tell it's twice as expensive to buy into with nice glass than the GH3 (or even GH4 in a little over a month) with similar quality glass in m4/3. I know it's not full frame, but the video on the GH* blows Canon out of the water.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 00:55
|
|
|
I can hack a 5Dmk3 to shoot raw video though. The workflow isn't perfect but you're not going to find another camera that shoots full frame raw video. Plus on the photo side it it's far superior to anything on the m43 side except for maybe the OM-D.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 01:07
|
|
|
mclifford82 posted:I'm curious for those that chose to go with a 6D over a 5D Mark III: what was the deciding factor? Price differential? Features upgrade not worth it? Don't need the bells/whistles? I only use centre point AF, and a 5d3 was slightly more than double the price of a 6D. I think this might be the first time that Canon has actually got their market segmentation right.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 01:11
|
|
|
1st AD posted:I can hack a 5Dmk3 to shoot raw video though. The workflow isn't perfect but you're not going to find another camera that shoots full frame raw video. Plus on the photo side it it's far superior to anything on the m43 side except for maybe the OM-D. Does the 6D with magic lantern not do raw? My purposes are probably a bit different; I'm backpacking around South America for 6 months (then Africa), and the weight of a 5D3 and lenses would be too much I think.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 01:18
|
|
|
The SD card slot in the 6D is gimped and maxes out at like 20mb/s, raw video in any decent resolution is impossible.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 01:25
|
|
|
IanTheM posted:Image quality wise not a huge difference, and if you only use the centre point to recompose the image then all the crazy AF stuff on the 5D3 isn't often useful. Plus it's a bit lighter, and has wifi.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 06:28
|
|
|
1st AD posted:The SD card slot in the 6D is gimped and maxes out at like 20mb/s, raw video in any decent resolution is impossible. Is there reason to not get a 5D2 instead for essentially the same price?
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 08:57
|
|
|
Overture posted:Is there reason to not get a 5D2 instead for essentially the same price? 6D has slightly better low light, that's about it. They both don't have fantastic AF systems.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 09:26
|
|
|
IanTheM posted:6D has slightly better low light, that's about it. They both don't have fantastic AF systems. I guess my point is, other than small differences like that, the 5D2 isn't gimped when it comes to video (which is half of what I need to be doing) and works great with Magic Lantern, where as the 6D is not even at full 1080p yet and seems quite buggy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 10:00
|
|
|
Does anyone have experience with the Canon EF 28mm? This one. I broke my Canon EF 35mm a while back and am looking to replace it. Another contender is the Sigma 30mm, but people complaining about AF issues give me pause. I need to stay in the $500 range.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 19:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:30 |
|
|
Did you shatter it or something? Surely getting it repaired would be cheaper than buying a new lens. I have the older Sigma 30, and I've never had focusing problems.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2014 20:52
|
|
