|
Looking at getting a nice brush or 2 today, and I wasnt sure what I should be aiming for price range wise. I keep seeing W&N listed as one of the good brands, but is there anything else I should be looking at in particular? I wouldn't mind getting some that will last me a long time and are fairly good for fine details and general painting.
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 18:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:18 |
|
|
Slimnoid posted:Do those have a white background to them, to where you have to trim exactly along the design? Or is it more like standard (GW style) decal paper, where it's transparent? It's clear. Watch the video on the website, they show off the finished product.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 18:49
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Looking at getting a nice brush or 2 today, and I wasnt sure what I should be aiming for price range wise. W&N Series 7 (the regular ones, not the Series 7 Miniature), Raphael 8404, Davinci Maestro, and Rosemary & Co. Series 33 are the ones everyone throws around. I have all 4 and like them for different things, but it's mostly personal preference that you can't really judge until you use them. The Raphael 8404 are my favorite, but that's just me. If you're only buying 1 or 2 brushes, any of those will do very nicely. Rosemary & Co are cheaper but you have to order direct from the small mom & pop that makes them in England. The others are pricey but always available cheap on dickblick.com, somewhere around 5-8 bucks a brush.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:03
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:God this so much. I sell everything I paint because I do not want to see it ever again by the time I finish everything. Good job it's scheduled to die horribly to the PCs in a week or so then! (though, if it's cursed enough to let me kill a couple first, I'd be please  )
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:07
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:The others are pricey but always available cheap on dickblick.com, somewhere around 5-8 bucks a brush. Where are you seeing this, because I show Series 7s starting at $15 discounted price on dickblick. I mean that's not really a bad price for a brush that has lasted me for well over a year now (though I might replace it soon) but 5-8 would be baller.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:43
|
|
|
I would need something tougher than an Ikea desk since I discovered years ago that a claw hammer and a razor blade is the poor man's power weapon for cutting metal minis. It's loving nuts how well it works, wear eye protection but don't try it at home.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:50
|
|
|
Post 9-11 User posted:I would need something tougher than an Ikea desk since I discovered years ago that a claw hammer and a razor blade is the poor man's power weapon for cutting metal minis. I don't think this advice is OSHA approved. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:51
|
|
|
JerryLee posted:Where are you seeing this, because I show Series 7s starting at $15 discounted price on dickblick. I mean that's not really a bad price for a brush that has lasted me for well over a year now (though I might replace it soon) but 5-8 would be baller. Oh man, they have gone up. A couple years ago when I bought mine I am positive they were under 10 bucks a brush.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:54
|
|
|
Looks even better cropped, sharpened, and white balanced. I love Irfanview.   Paint the eyes and you're golden. I suggest yellow or a bright purple, but whatev. I like your sludge base, but the base should have a contrasting color to make the model pop more. Deviant posted:I don't think this advice is OSHA approved. Orks like a fight, fight like an Ork! It was necessary because a dremel tool would have removed too much material from the cut. A razor blade works wonders, be sure to use a solid steel blade rather than the wimpy thin kind.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 19:57
|
|
|
Post 9-11 User posted:Orks like a fight, fight like an Ork! It was necessary because a dremel tool would have removed too much material from the cut. A razor blade works wonders, be sure to use a solid steel blade rather than the wimpy thin kind. Going to need bit more explanation on this one. Do you balance the razor blade on the mini and smash a hammer down on it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:04
|
|
|
Post 9-11 User posted:Paint the eyes and you're golden. I suggest yellow or a bright purple, but whatev. I'd like to disagree a bit; I like the black, empty look on stuff like this plague marine. That said no matter what the eyes are painted it's not going to ruin the pretty slick paint job on the rest of the model so go nuts.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:08
|
|
|
JerryLee posted:I'd like to disagree a bit; I like the black, empty look on stuff like this plague marine. My most current Nurgle models all have solid black eyes with a couple coats of gloss varnish brushed onto them. I'd like to think it looks pretty passable, it fits the Nurgle theme well. My "Chaos Spawn models painted to be Nurgle" have solid light gray eyes with black wash along the edges (on the one model that actually has eyes) and that also seems to work really well. Drone posted:So any old spraycan primer will do, right? Or do I need to make sure it's a certain type of paint to spray on my plastic spacemen? Get one that says says "works on plastic" somewhere on the can, which for primer should be every can from every brand. That's about it. I prefer Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover if I'm priming white but I recently had a minor "too much primer" mishap because it goes on really heavy and can pool up but it also shrinks down a ton as it dries. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Mar 14, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:21
|
|
|
So any old spraycan primer will do, right? Or do I need to make sure it's a certain type of paint to spray on my plastic spacemen? Heading to the hardware store tomorrow after running some errands to pick up a can of Krylon or whatever they have available.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:21
|
|
|
Drone posted:So any old spraycan primer will do, right? Or do I need to make sure it's a certain type of paint to spray on my plastic spacemen? Yeah, any spray primer is fine, and Krylon in particular is a favorite of a lot of people here. Just make sure it says primer on the can and isn't just spray paint. The difference is honestly not a big deal for plastics but if you ever want to prime metal or resin it'll be nice to not have to go buy something else.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:27
|
|
|
Oh, here's another dumb question: I've seen people on Youtube who stick their models to a cork/pill bottle/piece of wood so they don't have to touch the model while painting it. Is it just normal dorm-room sticky tack stuff, or something specific to hobbyists?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:36
|
|
|
Drone posted:Oh, here's another dumb question: I've seen people on Youtube who stick their models to a cork/pill bottle/piece of wood so they don't have to touch the model while painting it. Is it just normal dorm-room sticky tack stuff, or something specific to hobbyists? No, it's usually just regular blue poster-tac. Some people use a tiny dab of superglue instead, and just carefully break it off when they are done.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:39
|
|
|
Drone posted:Oh, here's another dumb question: I've seen people on Youtube who stick their models to a cork/pill bottle/piece of wood so they don't have to touch the model while painting it. Is it just normal dorm-room sticky tack stuff, or something specific to hobbyists? It's just poster-tac/white-tac. I used to do this but any "tac putty" starts to get gross from touching it and naturally collecting dust and dirt and if you airbrush or spray primer paint starts to build up in it and it breaks down over time leaving bits of tac on your models which isn't that bad but it can be annoying if you get bits of putty in really hard to reach fragile areas. I prefer the Buypainted method of putting temporary pins in your model pieces although he does paint things on the sprue and tac models to corks as well. It takes a little bit of time to set up but having pin "handles" on your models has helped me so much. Being able to hang a model upside down from your desk while a coat of wash dries is incredibly helpful. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Mar 14, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:44
|
|
|
Pacheeco posted:It's just poster-tac/white-tac. I used to do this but any "tac putty" starts to get gross from touching it and naturally collecting dust and dirt and if you airbrush or spray primer paint starts to build up in it and it breaks down over time leaving bits of tac on your models which isn't that bad but it can be annoying if you get bits of putty in really hard to reach fragile areas. I prefer the Buypainted method of just putting temporary pins in your model pieces. It takes a little bit of time to set up but having "handles" on your models has helped me so much. Being able to hang a model upside down from your desk while a coat of wash dries is incredibly helpful. If you're painting in pieces, yeah. I just base and prime everything assembled and so the tac is only ever touching the base anyway.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:47
|
|
|
Thanks for all the praise and tips dudes! I downloaded Irfanview, and I'm gunna try out that varnish on the eyes!Reynold posted:I mean, a huge heavy armored marine would probably squish such things beneath his armored feet, right? I messed up a little on how the base should have been sculpted, I wanted to go for him standing on an seemingly infinite mound of maggots. Lord Humongus fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Mar 14, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 20:52
|
|
|
Vondizimo posted:Going to need bit more explanation on this one. Do you balance the razor blade on the mini and smash a hammer down on it? Don't be silly! :iamafag: Hold the razor on the spot you want to cut, tap it with the hammer. This is not a smash attack.  Good heavens, no.  You are not even serious, hell no.  Yes!
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 21:08
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:No, it's usually just regular blue poster-tac. Some people use a tiny dab of superglue instead, and just carefully break it off when they are done. I find blu-tac doesn't stick to corks. I hold them on to the cork by putting pins into the feet and sticking those into the cork.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 22:11
|
|
|
I tend to cut down the model tab into two thin "pins" under their feet (I mainly work with Infinity minis, so metal). I found that little binder clips are awesome for holding them while priming/basecoating.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 22:16
|
|
|
Painted up a Necron Lord and Cryptek with the staff I pinned together using green rods and a couple of spare Wraith bits. Crappy iPhone pic incoming:  The original staff that came with the Cryptek broke and kind of sucked anyway. I didn't take any shots of the Lord as happy as I am with how he turned out, just because the finecast made the Warscythe all warped looking. gently caress finecast.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 22:55
|
|
|
Nice lookin' staff you got there. I straightened out my cryptek's staff by warming it a bit with a hair dryer and adjusting it. Just be careful, a little heat goes a long way!
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 23:15
|
|
|
PyroDwarf posted:Nice lookin' staff you got there. Thanks! So is this what I can do the next time I get something Finecast that is warped in some way? Just heat it up with a blowdryer for a few minutes and bend it manually into the shape I want?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 23:18
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:Thanks! It worked for me:  Like I said, you will need less heat than you think. I had my tiny hairdryer on high for only 10-15 seconds before it was pliable.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 23:24
|
|
|
Good to know! I wish I had this information before I primed and painted the Necron Lord. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 23:37
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Looking at getting a nice brush or 2 today, and I wasnt sure what I should be aiming for price range wise. Remember you don't actually want a super precision brush for most painting. You wan't like a 2 round and then a very small precision for doing detail work. How fat the brush doesn't matter as much as how thin the point is. Faust did a good video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2y8wIJCS-k
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2014 23:46
|
|
|
El Estrago Bonito posted:Remember you don't actually want a super precision brush for most painting. You wan't like a 2 round and then a very small precision for doing detail work. How fat the brush doesn't matter as much as how thin the point is. Faust did a good video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2y8wIJCS-k I ended up finding a place with W&N brushes and earmarked a series 7 size 1 for me. When I'm there tomorrow should I be trying to find a round 2 if they have one? or are we talking pretty small differences at this point?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 02:08
|
|
|
I find a size 1 plenty big enough. Anything I could be using a 2 on I don't need to be using a nice kolinsky for.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 02:24
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:Painted up a Necron Lord and Cryptek with the staff I pinned together using green rods and a couple of spare Wraith bits. Turned out pretty good, actually! Just please don't plug a phone brand, it's a "phone pic" or "camera phone" or "I built a pinhole camera from old pizza boxes, took the photo, developed it in a dark room, then scanned it on my computer to make the final result." You used those balls of steel "rib" bits from the sides of Wraiths? http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zEH7aeSGrGw/T60q7wR8M0I/AAAAAAAAAOI/wsvnfKJRvI8/s1600/Picture+089.jpg
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 03:31
|
|
|
Noted for next time.  Actually the bits I used were from the ranged weapons the Wraiths comes with, which I didn't use. I'm pretty limited on what bits I actually have, so it's fortunate they worked out. It was my first time drilling and pinning anything. Here's a better pinhole camera from an old pizza box picture of it: 
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 04:08
|
|
|
Working on a little something... I love the Minitaire paints - down with the airbrush now though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 04:20
|
|
|
I'm using this primer shot through an airbrush on some pewter warmachine pikemen. I'm noticing that it's easier to chip off than the rattlecan I used on a different pewter unit. Is this expected? I plan to varnish everything with Future and then Dullcote, but I wanted to know if I'm setting myself up for failure. If this is a bad primer to be spraying, can you all suggest an alternative for use with an airbrush? I like everything else about it; cost, smell, detail, ease of application.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 07:19
|
|
|
parabolic posted:I'm using this primer shot through an airbrush on some pewter warmachine pikemen. I'm noticing that it's easier to chip off than the rattlecan I used on a different pewter unit. Is this expected? I plan to varnish everything with Future and then Dullcote, but I wanted to know if I'm setting myself up for failure. If this is a bad primer to be spraying, can you all suggest an alternative for use with an airbrush? I like everything else about it; cost, smell, detail, ease of application. Vallejo Surface Primer (fine acrylic paint in general) isn't as sturdy on metal models as rattle can primer (personally I still use rattle primer on metal models, it's just easier) but once you get your paint coats down and a gloss coat and then a matte coat the entire thing will be rock solid unless you constantly bang your metal models together or drop them on hard surfaces. Try to avoid handling the primered models with your bare hands; VSP doesn't get a super great grip on those sharp points and edges and your natural hand sweat and oils doesn't help. You can also do primer > base coat > gloss > layers (finish painting) > gloss > matte. I did this with a metal Terminator Chaplain and that thing is bulletproof now. If you do this you should let the first gloss coat completely cure overnight before you move on. I tried to rush a paint job over "dry" Future once and it didn't end well. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Mar 15, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 07:32
|
|
|
You know, painting yellow kind of sucks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 08:35
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:You know, painting yellow kind of sucks. Seriously but I'm glad for those foundation/base paints. Makes it a bit easier =) Posting some more progress. Enjoy my shittily lit pics!    I'm happy with how his face has turned out (probably because there's only half of it showing ) and only have a few more details to go before i can move onto his weapon and arms. This guy will be holding a Splinter Cannon. Also, whenever i look at my Dark Eldar, i can't help but think of this song... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8ju_10NkGY
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 09:18
|
|
|
I'm terrible at figuring how to replicate colors and techniques from pictures. How would you guys do this awesome color scheme? I'm specifically curious about the brownish beige khaki color, it's got a real warm feel to it without being outright yellow.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 09:33
|
|
|
I finished painting my Stormwall today... without an airbrush. It took me almost a month, and to be honest I found a few mistakes that I just can't be arsed to fix anymore. Painting something this huge with normal brushes was like a special form of torture. At least I learned a lot about wet blending in the process. Still, I'm coming close to a fully painted collection, which is it's own kind of reward.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 09:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:18 |
|
|
plester1 posted:I'm terrible at figuring how to replicate colors and techniques from pictures. How would you guys do this awesome color scheme? I'm specifically curious about the brownish beige khaki color, it's got a real warm feel to it without being outright yellow. The color you're looking for is "ocher". To get that color I'd go with a base of Reaper HD Griffon Tan highlighted up to Vallejo Salmon Rose (which I think is what color is being used there). I think the base is probably GW XV-88. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Mar 15, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 09:42
|
|