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Pham Nuwen posted:Thanks for the tips! I saw a recommendation for keh.com early in the thread, but that's from 6 years ago; are they still one of the better places to buy a used camera? I also see stuff on Amazon, and of course there's always (ugh) ebay L@@K VINTAGE NIKON PENTAX KODAK CAMERA K1000 AE-1 L@@K. Keh sells probably the best used stuff around and backs it with a warranty and unbeatable customer service. You will pay a premium for this.
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Mar 11, 2014 05:18
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nm posted:Keh sells probably the best used stuff around and backs it with a warranty and unbeatable customer service. You will pay a premium for this. Ok, a warranty plus good customer service sounds like exactly what I want. I don't have any sort of experience with which to judge the quality of some random camera, I'm down to leave it up to them. How about an ME Super in excellent condition for $50? http://www.keh.com/camera/Pentax-Manual-Focus-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-PK020107000090?r=FE No lens, but perhaps: http://www.keh.com/camera/Pentax-Manual-Focus-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-PK060107000400?r=FE Add a battery (does that come with the camera body?) and some film and that's enough to get started, right?
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Mar 11, 2014 06:14
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok, a warranty plus good customer service sounds like exactly what I want. I don't have any sort of experience with which to judge the quality of some random camera, I'm down to leave it up to them. The 50/1.7 is probably only a little bit more expensive in the grand scheme of things, and is likely worth the money upgrading to it. Sharper, faster, etc. http://www.keh.com/camera/Pentax-Manual-Focus-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-PK060000072500?r=FE if you don't mind some markings the engraved one they have for 10 bucks less is a steal. Probably no real reason to get an EX over a BGN grade in either case either.
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Mar 11, 2014 06:18
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Mr. Despair posted:The 50/1.7 is probably only a little bit more expensive in the grand scheme of things, and is likely worth the money upgrading to it. Sharper, faster, etc. When you say in either case, do you mean for both the camera body and the lens, or do you mean for the F2 and the F1.7? If a BGN camera body and lens should be ok, I could be in business for $50 which would be pretty easy to justify to the fiance 
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Mar 11, 2014 06:28
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Pham Nuwen posted:When you say in either case, do you mean for both the camera body and the lens, or do you mean for the F2 and the F1.7? If a BGN camera body and lens should be ok, I could be in business for $50 which would be pretty easy to justify to the fiance I'm guessing he meant both. Especially considering KEH is really conservative with ratings.
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Mar 11, 2014 06:29
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Geektox posted:I'm guessing he meant both. Especially considering KEH is really conservative with ratings. That's what I figured. So if I wanted to order a camera from KEH and grab some film while I was at it, what is a good one to start with? I figure I'd like to shoot a roll or two and have them developed at the drugstore or wherever just to make sure the camera functions properly, but after that I'd want to start developing my own; so I figure eventually I'll be doing black and white for simplicity, but can the drugstore machines handle black and white or would I want color film if I'm processing it there? Edit: Is it worth picking this stuff up for free? It's about 20-30 minutes away: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/4339813907.html Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 06:42
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For film, Kodak Portra 400 is the best. If you wanted something cheaper to test the camera, a pack of 4x24 Fuji Superia 400 or Kodak Gold Max 400 are about $11 on Amazon. Drug stores won't be able to develop B&W, they can only do color negative (known as C-41 processing). For B&W film, I'd look over at freestylephoto.biz and get some Arista Premium which is supposedly just rebranded Kodak Tri-X for cheaper.
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Mar 11, 2014 11:59
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Pham Nuwen posted:Thanks for the tips! I saw a recommendation for keh.com early in the thread, but that's from 6 years ago; are they still one of the better places to buy a used camera? I also see stuff on Amazon, and of course there's always (ugh) ebay L@@K VINTAGE NIKON PENTAX KODAK CAMERA K1000 AE-1 L@@K. Ebay is kind of a shithole but I've found that if you keep your options open as to what you're looking for and have some patience, you can get what you want at a considerably lower rate than KEH and from reputable sellers. My GW690II only cost me $200 and most of my AIS lenses have have been under $100. That said, I have bought from KEH in the past and if you deal with them, you won't be disappointed.
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Mar 11, 2014 12:10
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Saint Fu posted:For B&W film, I'd look over at freestylephoto.biz and get some Arista Premium which is supposedly just rebranded Kodak Tri-X for cheaper. Last time I bought from freestyle their little folder said they're going to discontinue the Arista Premium soon, instead changing to a England supplier. I'm so hopping we get rebranded HP5 for cheap...
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Mar 11, 2014 15:41
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Paul MaudDib posted:There's also the earlier Pentax M42 bodies, the Spotmatic series. If you have a Super-Multi-Coated series lens and a ES/ES II/Spotmatic F body, they operate essentially the same as the K1000 or the ME (although they're older and the focus screens are dustier, etc). Some of the earlier Super Takumar lenses lack the meter lugs to offer open-aperture metering, in which case they work like earlier bodies: you press a switch to turn on the meter. Since there is camera chat going on right now: I'm trying to find a Super Takumar 1.4/50 that doesn't make me poor and that hasn't got a yellow tint to the lense because of the Thorium in the coating. So far, I have been unsucessful.  I'm using a Praktica MTL-5 body that I have been given by my father, but I'd really love the faster lense, because they are supposed to be pretty much the best 50mm lenses for M42 mounts. If only there existed some camera shops around were I live...Does anybody have any experience with them or the (later?) SMC Takumar lenses? Any other recommendations for a fast M42 50mm lens?
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Mar 11, 2014 16:44
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I hear you can get the yellowing to go away if you leave the element exposed to sunlight for a week or so.
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Mar 11, 2014 16:57
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Well, I did it! I ordered a Pentax ME Super, a 50mm F1.7 lens, and a lens cap. I'm sure there's a bunch of other poo poo I'll want, like a strap, but this is a start. Total came to about $70 with shipping and sales tax. I'm excited! I'll order some color film from Amazon Prime soonish, no rush since the camera won't be here until next week. Thanks for the advice, everyone!
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Mar 11, 2014 17:04
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Spime Wrangler posted:I hear you can get the yellowing to go away if you leave the element exposed to sunlight for a week or so. That would require there to be more than an hour of sunlight every other week.  On a more serious note, however, that sounds like a good hint, I'll have to look further into that!
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Mar 11, 2014 17:09
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Hollow Talk posted:That would require there to be more than an hour of sunlight every other week. Apparently, Ikea has a $10 desk lamp that will also clear up the problem in a day or so.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:17
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Yond Cassius posted:Apparently, Ikea has a $10 desk lamp that will also clear up the problem in a day or so.  That's truly and utterly amazing, and seems a lot easier than waiting for sunlight.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:32
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Hollow Talk posted:
Someone in the comments points out that the inventory number has changed, so the new one might not have the same UV output. Still, a blacklight or something should be able to stand in in a pinch.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:34
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Hollow Talk posted:Since there is camera chat going on right now: Guys this is the film camera chat thread. If you want to ask a question just go for it. We won't laugh too hard. quote:I'm trying to find a Super Takumar 1.4/50 that doesn't make me poor and that hasn't got a yellow tint to the lense because of the Thorium in the coating. So far, I have been unsucessful. Takumars are the only lenses that will work with full functionality on the Spotmatic F/ES/ES II bodies. Almost all (possibly a few exceptions) of the Super Takumars lack the aperture lugs on the back of the lens that tells the camera what aperture is selected. If you use a third-party lens or a Super Takumar on those bodies, they will work just like an earlier Spotmatic body (or your body): you'll need to push a switch to stop down the lens to get a meter reading. Not applicable to you, but I'm throwing it out there so no one's surprised. Pretty much all 50mm Takumars have the yellowing to at least some degree. Seems to progress with age, and the Supers are the oldest and tend to be the most yellowed. I think they also just use more of the lanthanum (which produces the yellow). First option, you can live with it. If you're shooting B+W it won't be a problem at all (yellow is a light contrast boost filter), or you could theoretically correct it for color with a complimentary colored filter (At the cost of a bit of speed). Digital can be WB'd in post of course. Second option, get something else. There's other M42 50mm-ish lenses out there. Yashica and Fuji made some decent stuff. Zeiss Jena is quasi-Russian, but they have a lot of pretty decent lenses like the Biotars, Pancolars, etc. You can find Vivitar, Chinon, Sears and other third-party and house-brand stuff. The outright Russian stuff (Jupiter, etc) is not really my favorite. Third option, treat the lens. UV seems to cure the elements. Leaving it in a window for a few weeks is an easy solution, you could also put it under a blacklight or rig a lens cap up with UV-emitting LEDs. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 20:17
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While looking to see what enlargers go for around here, I saw this: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pho/4351955983.html I thought the Lubitel-166B 6x6 camera might be of interest to anyone in the Bay Area:  He's asking $65. I didn't post it in the buy/sell thread because I'm not selling it myself, I just saw something cool  Edit: Ok, an ebay search shows that these are at $30 buy it now, so probably ignore that one
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 00:55
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Hollow Talk posted:Since there is camera chat going on right now: Pretty sure the Super-Tak 50s have a coating that looks yellow by default. Doesn't mean it is yellowed to the point that it impairs color. It can be cleared by UV light. SMC Tak 50/1.4s cost more, but have a different coating. Also, there is a difference between early Super-Taks and later ones. Can't recall which has radioactive glass (if not both). My 55/1.8 Super-Tak takes perfect pictures, but it sure looks yellow.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:36
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well, I did it! I ordered a Pentax ME Super, a 50mm F1.7 lens, and a lens cap. I'm sure there's a bunch of other poo poo I'll want, like a strap, but this is a start. Total came to about $70 with shipping and sales tax. Psst, buy yourself one of these.   Pentax ME Belt Clip by g.hetzel, on Flickr
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Mar 12, 2014 04:19
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Casu Marzu posted:Psst, buy yourself one of these. I see a few on Ebay for $35+. Are they actually any good? I wouldn't trust it not to drop my camera or gently caress up my belt with the weight. A few hours ago I put in an Amazon order for 2 neckstraps, 10 LR44 batteries, and 4 rolls of color film for $25 total. I figure I'll run one roll and take it to the drugstore to check the camera, then play around to try and figure out how to take a decent picture. If I'm enjoying things, I'll get the gear to develop B&W and start playing with that instead. I noticed that a lot of the products listed in the OP's shopping list are no longer available or are out of stock. Has there been a more recent list of recommended starter equipment? I saw Paul MuadDib's post here with a list of chemicals that look pretty cheap on Amazon, except that I cannot find Rodinal; is that something I'll have to get elsewhere, or am I just searching for the wrong name? Also, hoping his offer of a tank for shipping cost still stands almost a year later
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Mar 12, 2014 05:12
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It's solid metal, the straps you bought or your belt will fail long before it does (assuming you aren't absolutely terrible at screwing it into the tripod mount). It's great with shorter lenses (pancake 40 especially).
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Mar 12, 2014 05:23
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well, I did it! I ordered a Pentax ME Super, a 50mm F1.7 lens, and a lens cap. I'm sure there's a bunch of other poo poo I'll want, like a strap, but this is a start. Total came to about $70 with shipping and sales tax. Excellent. You're off to a fine start. I shoot whatever film I can find for cheap, expired Kodak Gold 100 seems to be lurking in the back of everyone's old camera bag when they clean out the attic. Porta 400 really is excellent, but for just learning the camera some drugstore ISO 100, 200, or 400 film is perfect. Write down what you did for each shot. Things like shutter speed and aperture can be really useful information later when you're trying to figure out why that one photo looks that way.
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Mar 12, 2014 06:57
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Apparently Fuji discontinued some more films, except I've never heard of either one. http://petapixel.com/2014/03/03/fujifilm-discontinues-neopan-400-presto-35mm-fujicolor-pro-400-120-film/
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Mar 12, 2014 15:21
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I think Fuji has a number of relatively redundant filmstocks on the Asian market. I've never heard of those ones either.
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Mar 12, 2014 16:04
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nm posted:Pretty sure the Super-Tak 50s have a coating that looks yellow by default. Doesn't mean it is yellowed to the point that it impairs color. It can be cleared by UV light. Oh, I wasn't talking about the appearance of the lense so much, but I saw a couple where the tint actually influenced the images, which isn't ideal for colour photography, I suppose. The amount of aperture blades differs for various versions of the Super-Taks, if I am not mistaken, with 6-,7- and 8-bladed versions.
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Mar 12, 2014 16:12
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voodoorootbeer posted:Apparently Fuji discontinued some more films, except I've never heard of either one. They're very much Japan only type films, like their Fortia and Natura stocks: https://www.japanexposures.com/shop/#/category/32
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Mar 12, 2014 22:33
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Anyone have much experience with Pan-F Plus and D-76 1+1? I'm thinking of shooting a roll, but I'm not sure if I should rate the film at ISO 50 or 25.
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Mar 13, 2014 11:49
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try it with a lime posted:Anyone have much experience with Pan-F Plus and D-76 1+1? I'm thinking of shooting a roll, but I'm not sure if I should rate the film at ISO 50 or 25. With Pan F+ I like to pull to 25 or even 12, you're already slow, might as well go full out. Never did it with D-76, but 1+1 seens good, I find strongish developers (I even used 1+1 dektol for it, can't remember the time) work well on keeping the high contrast without really loosing shadow detail.
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Mar 13, 2014 19:39
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I need to get out shooting. I am almost done going through and editing my old film stuff, so new rolls need to be shot. _DSC6072 by Stingray of Doom, on Flickr
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Mar 14, 2014 07:34
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Putrid Grin posted:I need to get out shooting. I am almost done going through and editing my old film stuff, so new rolls need to be shot. Nice shot. Bizarro-Opposite World looks like a nice place. How the hell did you reach that point? I've got dozens of rolls in my freezer waiting for a trip through the developing tank, did you open a portal to another dimension? please don't tell me "hard work" I'm currently suffering an allergic reaction to that
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Mar 14, 2014 18:47
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Uh... I'm afraid I dont understand the question...
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Mar 15, 2014 03:13
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Bizarro World = Having all your film shot and developed instead of stockpiled in the fridge/freezer like me (and him apparently). I just spent 2 hours wandering around in a bar district of town taking night shots (Portra 400  ) and was surprised how many people recognized my Pentax 67.I did accidentally brush against the shutter button though and waste a frame taking a shot of the ground. 
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Mar 15, 2014 05:46
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Don't you have the shutter lock on yours? Unless I'm wearing gloves, it takes no time at all for me to flip it over and shoot.
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Mar 15, 2014 16:39
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Casu Marzu posted:Don't you have the shutter lock on yours? Unless I'm wearing gloves, it takes no time at all for me to flip it over and shoot. Yeah, I should have had it on "L". Usually though, I keep it unlocked with the film not advanced until I'm ready to shoot. Dunno why I had it advanced last night (blaming the drinks I had!)
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Mar 15, 2014 20:06
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Putrid Grin posted:Uh... I'm afraid I dont understand the question... Who is this weirdo who doesn't have a freezer full of slowly-decaying exposed film? I should just shut up and break out the developer, but I'm waaaaaaaay too lazy for that.
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Mar 15, 2014 20:09
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I usually develop/scan stuff as soon as possible, but then I don't do anything with it for months and months and months. Overall, I think it helps me to come to the sorting/post-processing stage with fresh eyes. Slowly decaying unexposed film on the other hand....
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Mar 15, 2014 20:49
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I'm in Tokyo now and glad to see the film coolers are still well stocked.
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Mar 15, 2014 22:18
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My problem isn't the developing (anymore, last year I went through all my stuff, including some that had been sitting for ~3 years), but the scanning. I've got something like 75 rolls of medium format to get through. I have a V750, Betterscanning holders, but...  I put my stuff in an Excel spreadsheet, with columns for "developed" "scanned" "retouched" and "uploaded". I like to print it so I have something to physically check off. Feels good when you actually do it. RustedChrome posted:I'm in Tokyo now and glad to see the film coolers are still well stocked. They keep getting smaller though  You gonna be down in Kyushu any on this trip?
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Mar 16, 2014 02:59
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Japan has such a great photo culture. People are just so enthusiastic and respectful of it there. And developing is like christmas. You get to see whats on all these rolls you shot, and since I don't keep track of that stuff, its always a surprise for me. For me its very exciting until I see how lovely my photos turned out.
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Mar 16, 2014 03:38
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