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It looks like I wouldn't want to touch it, which I feel is likely intentional.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 21:08 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 17:00 |
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Yeah! I wanted a guy that looked like he only had shards of armour because his rot was festerting so much that it just burst forth. I showed it to my brother and he said that it was too busy though so I'm worried I messed him up.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 21:22 |
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I wouldn't add any more to the body, when you finally add those arms/weapons on I think it'll look less busy with the gore. Gotta reserve further judgement until then, but I think you'll be fine as is.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 21:23 |
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Haha darn, I already added a face to his bolter. I also want to add a Plague Sword and a Banner on his backpack, would that also be too much? I already have the plague swords shape cut from cardstock and ready to be green stuffed.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 21:39 |
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Pilgrimski posted:WIP Droidikas to go up against my Jedi. Next step guns on their arms! Waaaait... when you say WIP.. are you scratch building or is there some line of star wars models out there that I don't know about? I ask because I vaguely promised my 4 year old son that I'd try to find some droids that he could paint blue. He's obsessive about the colour blue. and droids.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 22:32 |
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Someone a while back was talking about digital camo - I'm using printable decal paper on my stealth suits. I painted the whole model in the lightest colour and washed/ highlighted, and printed out blocks of camo in the two other colours and applied it. Here's my test model - I think I could have been a bit more heavy handed with the wash and highlight, and it needs a coat of varnish to bed everything down, but I think it came out fairly well.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 22:54 |
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That is actually quite cool. I have never used decals before and I assume curved surfaces are a pain but the suits will probably be a breeze! Nice work. I'm sure it look even smoother not ultra close up. The t-image version confirms.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 23:53 |
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We're going to need a bigger Micro Sol.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 00:19 |
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That Stealth Suit with the printed camo reminded me of this idea I had. Has anybody ever tried using hydrographic printing/painting on scale models? There's tons of videos on YouTube of people dipping guitars/car parts/guns/video game controllers/paintball stuff which are all pretty simple, rounded objects but I've yet to see or even find any evidence online of anybody trying this on a scale model. Obviously I'm not talking about swirling your Infantry models but I think it would could really well on vehicles, especially IG/Tau/Eldar ones. In theory it should work fine but I'm wondering if the details on the models and the sharp angles would mess with the paint transfer. Setting up the swirls to the correct "scale" might take some practice but I think it could make for some pretty amazing looking water or jungle "game camouflage" on vehicles once you get the swirl scale and color set down. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Mar 17, 2014 |
# ? Mar 17, 2014 00:44 |
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CROSS POST AHOY!!!!!!! Well I have finally gotten one of my Gaunts up to a level where I feel I can show it to you all. Keep in mind this is the first mini I've painted in about 10 years. I put on the primer just a tiny bit too thick and the details aren't 100% finished, but I'm pretty drat happy with how it turned out! Comments & constructive criticism are very welcome!
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 01:04 |
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Work in progress in my five year long (on and off) quest to find a way of painting Imperial Fists that I like and is practical. Colours look a bit off because of autocorrection. If it weren't for the shockingly uneven nature of the Yrial, after three coats, I think I would go straight into an army like this. As it is I need to find a way of cracking a smooth coat first.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 01:18 |
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BaconCopter posted:Comments & constructive criticism are very welcome! Looks good for such a long break off painting! Put a bit of sand or flock on the base to finish it.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 01:18 |
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So, five years ago I thought it would be a cool idea to get into 40k. I bought the battle for Macragge set and played it with a friend for a couple days, quickly losing interest with the lack of people to play with and the cost looking increasingly absurd for a highschool student. Earlier this week I decided to try it things once again and sent an order in for a copy of dark vengeance and pulled out all of my old primed but never finished marines. After some deliberation, I decided I would make the blood ravens my first army, and after about an hour and a half came up with the following model. EDIT: Some things I learned or discovered while painting this thing: 1. Eyes are the worst. If the helmet seems a slightly different shade of color, its probably because I ended up redoing the eyes at least four times. They still don't look at all optimal but I decided it was time to put down the brush and move on. 2. I am never completely putting together another model until I've at least done some of the paint work. Trying to get all of the nooks and crannies with the bolter hugged right against the drat marines chest proved very annoying, and I've left the Aquila untouched because of it. Another problem area was around the back pack but it was much easier to work around. 3. I don't have a clue when it comes to thinning the paint, and most of the work you see on this model is done with totally unthinned brushwork. I tried following the advice in the OP, but it seemed far too watery and by the time I was getting to painting the pallet had begun to dry. 4. My process that I eventually arrived to was to A: Dry the brush, B: dab brush into water and dry slightly, C: dip damp brush into paint bottle and get just the smallest amount of paint, and D: work on the model. The consistency seems okay to someone who has never done model painting before (hah!), the only areas that came up as totally problematic were the visor and shoulder edges. Speaking of which: 5. My Macragge marines have some of the worst shoulders. I'm talking major seams right down the middle, big holes where the spruces connected, etc. I tried working with an xacto knife to smooth it out a bit, but I really need to get a hold of some sand paper. So, after all of that, I've got one question. What kind of stores offer decal paper which I can use to print out blood raven decals to finish the shoulders? Do I need to go back up to an arts and crafts store or do office suppliers like Staples have some in stock? Even though I am looking at it now and see at least a dozen things I can do better, I am pretty excited with how the marine came out, it genuinely looks like a blood ravens marine. I would love some comments, concerns, or tips to help me work on my new found hobby. Deofuta fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Mar 17, 2014 |
# ? Mar 17, 2014 03:40 |
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Hey guys! How's this plague blade look?
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 05:26 |
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spiderbot posted:Someone a while back was talking about digital camo - I'm using printable decal paper on my stealth suits. I painted the whole model in the lightest colour and washed/ highlighted, and printed out blocks of camo in the two other colours and applied it. Here's my test model - I think I could have been a bit more heavy handed with the wash and highlight, and it needs a coat of varnish to bed everything down, but I think it came out fairly well. You're probably aware that the paint is a bit crusty, needs thinning, but the digicam turned out great! And desert camo is one of my favorite things, it's hard to make it look convincing but looks so good when it does.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 05:48 |
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To any goons having issues with thinning their paints or paints drying up on their pallets you should seriously consider using a wet pallet. They've been mentioned lots in this thread in the past and for good reason. They're super easy to make and since I've tried using them I can't see myself going back to using a dry pallet ever again.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 06:09 |
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Lord Humongus posted:Hey guys! How's this plague blade look?
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 06:41 |
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Judging from the pictures and the wall o' text you are way over thinking things. What you have posted is a competently painted model, commonly known as "tabletop quality," it won't win any painting contests but it looks good from a distance and won't enrage a neckbeard who would yell about "my immersion is ruined!" You have done well, especially since the model looks great without being overly complicated. After years of painting I am sick of painting weapons with multiple colors so I cut corners, if you stick with the template set by this model the army will look great! Remember, characters deserve the most attention and detail, so paint them last after you've had practice! Also, the colors of the mini will stand out far better once you paint the base. Trust me, one of my first minis painted was an Apothecary- mostly white- and it looks like burnt dogshit until I painted the base (I had base coated the whole model white). The visual contrast helps so much!
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 07:03 |
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Saalkin posted:Anyone have a list of sites/companies/what have you that do commission painting?I need to compare prices. You're best bet is to look at painters whose work is on the level your want your commission at, and then following links to their contact details or personal sites. Also if you check ebay a lot of people advertise they do open commissions if they have anything up there, and list contact details for work on their available items.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 07:55 |
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Non-US folks: I'm working on a revamp of the newbie post since it's both out of date (pre-GW paint line revamp) and honestly a bit incomplete (very GW-focused, since it was originally written in response to someone just getting started with some 40k orks). One bit of info that's missing is primer options and hobby tool brands for people outside the US, so if you have region-specific spray primers to recommend, have at it.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 08:11 |
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Here's what I painted this week. Fun stuff all around! 2 imperial buildings, some DzC scourge, and a butt.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 08:30 |
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Lucky bastard! I'm still waiting on my butts
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 08:33 |
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enri posted:Waaaait... when you say WIP.. are you scratch building or is there some line of star wars models out there that I don't know about? I ask because I vaguely promised my 4 year old son that I'd try to find some droids that he could paint blue. He's obsessive about the colour blue. and droids. The droids are based on these things: http://puppetswar.com/product.php?id_product=282 There used to be a line of star wars minis, made by Knight Models. But they dropped the range about when the rights to Star Wars went to Disney (not sure if the two were connected). You can still get some, but the ones you can find are limited and/or expensive: https://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/knight-models They did start a Batman range, so there is that There is a big range of pre-painted star wars figures for the RPG or an old wargame - http://www.rpgminiatures.com/acatalog/The_Clone_Wars.html Might be good for 4 year old painting blue?
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 08:46 |
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BaconCopter posted:Comments & constructive criticism are very welcome! I love icy nids, especially after someone on Eternity of War (RIP) mentioned wanting to do a woolly tyranid army. These are pretty great for a 10 year break. For improving your Tyranids, you can look at 3 suggestions: - Brush control, making those highlights thinner and sharper. - Feathering/streaking, typically for the carapaces. - Glazing, which is hugely helpful for making smooth color transitions/smoothing them out. More about all three in this video, among the many out there.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 09:04 |
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Pilgrimski posted:The droids are based on these things: http://puppetswar.com/product.php?id_product=282 West End did a line in the 90's but they were not good.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 10:15 |
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Already on it's way to iamspaceinvader covered in all the bubble wrap. Here's a couple of the pics of finished Kaladrax. I can do some more or some closeups and stuff if anyone is actually interested? Whoops! Table breaking.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 10:40 |
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stabbington posted:Non-US folks: I'm working on a revamp of the newbie post since it's both out of date (pre-GW paint line revamp) and honestly a bit incomplete (very GW-focused, since it was originally written in response to someone just getting started with some 40k orks). One bit of info that's missing is primer options and hobby tool brands for people outside the US, so if you have region-specific spray primers to recommend, have at it. Ok, I'll bite.. UK here, for undercoating black - Halford's Matt Black spray is perfect, haven't tried their white so can't comment.. who undercoats in white these days anyway? Filthy savages! - Ģ7.49 for 500ml, Ģ6.49 for 300ml (500ml is the no brainer ) Pilgrimski posted:The droids are based on these things: http://puppetswar.com/product.php?id_product=282 Perfect, thank you and yea, any old cheap poo poo will do, he's not going to be doing any 'eavy metal style paint jobs so I'll settle for cheap and plentiful over expensive and detailed. I wonder if it's worth picking up a few action figures and casting bits and pieces of them. That might be taking it a step too far for the sake of what will amount to half an hour of painting before he gets bored though
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 11:14 |
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That's an awesome Kaladrax! I can only hope to do half as well with mine. I painted up these guys this weekend while watching TV (airbrushed the skin bits the previous weekend): I'm trying to figure out the color scheme, I've settled on flesh and green for the main bodies, and I'm pretty sure orange for the weapons and purple for vents and other things. Yellow for they various eyes and such. This is all based on my handy-dandy color wheel :P But I'm stuck on the color for the ground and rims. Any suggestions? I'm thinking black for the rims but open to ideas. And I also did these MDF buildings last week: (fixed pictures!) Airbrush is quick krushgroove fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Mar 18, 2014 |
# ? Mar 17, 2014 11:20 |
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Post 9-11 User posted:Judging from the pictures and the wall o' text you are way over thinking things. What you have posted is a competently painted model, commonly known as "tabletop quality," it won't win any painting contests but it looks good from a distance and won't enrage a neckbeard who would yell about "my immersion is ruined!" Thanks for the advice! I've got a squad sitting on my desk to paint when I get home from work, so I'll be sure to work on quite a few marines until I get to my characters. What color would you suggest I paint the bases for red marines?
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:04 |
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Deofuta posted:Thanks for the advice! I've got a squad sitting on my desk to paint when I get home from work, so I'll be sure to work on quite a few marines until I get to my characters. What color would you suggest I paint the bases for red marines? A lot of people suggest a contrasting colour to make your mini stand out and make its colours pop more. Green is the direct contrast to red I guess but that might not be the look you want. With that shade of red I think a grey might work well. Brown might be too close to that red. Sometimes there's a basing scheme for the whole army like 'desert environment', 'winter', 'forest' or whatever and obviously that affects the colours you'd choose and the other basing materials you'd use. Overall I think you should go with whatever you think is cool in the end.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:17 |
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evenworse username posted:A lot of people suggest a contrasting colour to make your mini stand out and make its colours pop more. Green is the direct contrast to red I guess but that might not be the look you want. With that shade of red I think a grey might work well. Brown might be too close to that red. Riffing off of this advice, I would say go with a snow/winter base. Given the right materials it's fairly easy to make and the snow-white color should be just different enough from your bleached bone areas.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:20 |
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Sounds like I'm going to have to get some more paints, taking a look at what I got I managed to pick up off white but not actual full on white. Looking at some examples of snow I think that might be a great option, looks pretty nice.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:28 |
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Yeah, green would be too much on the whole base but maybe a neutral brown or greyish brown with some patches of green grass would be nice.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:38 |
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Lord Humongus posted:Hey guys! How's this plague blade look? This looks absolutely loving disgusting, good job.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:42 |
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stabbington posted:Non-US folks: I'm working on a revamp of the newbie post since it's both out of date (pre-GW paint line revamp) and honestly a bit incomplete (very GW-focused, since it was originally written in response to someone just getting started with some 40k orks). One bit of info that's missing is primer options and hobby tool brands for people outside the US, so if you have region-specific spray primers to recommend, have at it. Someone already said Halfords Matt black but if you can't get to a Halfords, B&q do plasticote Matt black and Automan ( smaller car stuff chain) doņa variety of cheap Matt black sprays which work great. Or failing that Army Painter do some great sprays in all sorts of colours which work as primer and base coat.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:43 |
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Serotonin posted:Someone already said Halfords Matt black but if you can't get to a Halfords, B&q do plasticote Matt black and Automan ( smaller car stuff chain) doņa variety of cheap Matt black sprays which work great. Or failing that Army Painter do some great sprays in all sorts of colours which work as primer and base coat. Seconding Army Painter sprays, they're not cheap, but they're good and come in a wide range of colors.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:53 |
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Seconding Army Painter sprays, they're not cheap, but they're good and come in a wide range of colors.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:54 |
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I need to clean up some areas on my models with some white, but I'm all out at the moment. I do have done Vallejo white primer, would that do the trick? What's the difference between primer and regular model paint?
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 17:13 |
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Halfords primers (available in a number of colours depending on which store you wander into) are fantastic. Their lacquer is brilliant as well - best acrylic gloss varnish I've used.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 17:24 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 17:00 |
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w00tmonger posted:I need to clean up some areas on my models with some white, but I'm all out at the moment. Primer has a very fine "tooth" to it for paint to grip to. I paint over it usually (even if it's black primer, I'll paint over it black because there's a different amount of sheen on primer vs. model paint usually) but if you're looking to just touch up some areas on models with spray primer, you might end up spraying too much on and mucking up the details.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 17:28 |