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Made it home! Hot idle oil pressure is nearly 40 now instead of 5-10, runs at 50psi hot all day. And it has hilariously deep gears for the first 3 or so, 30mph in third feels like you're revving it too high. Now time to pass the hell out. Looks like 5 hours will have to do... guess I will catch up some other time.
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Mar 18, 2014 07:10
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kastein posted:Hell yeah, time to drive home. Hope the rods stay inside the block, the rest I'm not afraid of. Awesome!
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Mar 18, 2014 09:47
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Some loving retard left the fill plug loose on the NP231 because he was a sly bastard and filled it through the speedo gear port before installing it, after thinking ahead and remembering to not torque the plug so he could get it out easily to fill it. DAMMIT. It was fine till sometime during my commute this morning, at which point it fell out and so did most/all of the fluid. Only noticed when I got to work and the hatch was covered in ATF. Hoping I didn't melt anything important... and now I have to find a loving fill plug before I can leave. M22x1.5 thread, good thing that is going to be super easy to find in the US.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:26
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kastein posted:Some loving retard left the fill plug loose on the NP231 because he was a sly bastard and filled it through the speedo gear port before installing it, after thinking ahead and remembering to not torque the plug so he could get it out easily to fill it. DAMMIT. I'm having the same sort of trouble finding an M14x1.5 bottom tap on short notice myself. Gotta love metric cars in America.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:31
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kastein posted:Hell yeah, time to drive home. Hope the rods stay inside the block, the rest I'm not afraid of. Kick rear end. If I ever get around to swapping the transmission on my Nova, I'm flying you out here.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:34
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you magnificent crazy bastard. Nothing like having a DD project with deadlines!
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Mar 18, 2014 16:34
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Aside from the SYE and the glasspack it is all factory parts off something so I don't really consider it a project car 
kastein fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 16:42
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Noted, and I'm stealing this for usage on mine. Gm parts were factory on something right?!  Holy poo poo. we both basically own amc products.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:46
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Did you install the SYE to accommodate a lift? What are the specs on the crapcan? Also - how do you like the sound from the glasspack? My muffler is banging against the rear upper control arm and it's either bend some hangers or get a slimmer muffler.
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Mar 18, 2014 17:51
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CSB - AMC = Assholes Make Cars, or All Makes Corporation. Accurate either way Astonishing Wang - it sounds fine to me, I got it because I was tired of ripping my spamcan muffler off on rocks and stuff. I installed the SYE because XJ rear driveshafts are a poo poo design and mine consistently has severe vibration issues, even at (and below) stock ride height. And I was gonna have the tcase sitting on the floor and my rear output bearing was junk anyways, so it was either repair a stupid stock design (and then have to spend money on one-time-use pressed on dust slingers and crap) or toss an upgrade in. Oh, and I couldn't find the right length stock driveshaft for a 5 speed swap with an 8.25 rearend around here, but I did manage to find the right driveshaft for the same setup with an SYE so that made it an easy choice. I got it up to 100 on the pike this morning to test it out and the vibes were far less than they were at 55 with the old setup... and I haven't even shimmed the axle perches, so the pinion angle is wrong. It will only get better.
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Mar 18, 2014 18:28
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Oh yeah. More proof that I am either too stupid or too smart for my own good. Last night while I was installing the SYE I was smart and didn't tighten the fill plug so I could fill it easily once I installed it. Then I got to thinking and was smart and just filled it through the speedo gear port (with the specced 2.4 pints of ATF) before installing it. Then I installed it. There seems to be a step missing here, can you figure it out? I couldn't, at least not after 36 hours of no sleep. This morning I got off the highway at the end of my commute and there was an odd rumbly vibration that wasn't there when I started driving. Then I got to the office (2 blocks off the highway) and was like... why the gently caress is my hatch covered in ATF? gently caress. Yep, fill plug's just plain gone. No idea how much fluid I lost (probably all of it) or how many miles I drove without it. Or how much damage I did to the tcase and SYE. Fortunately a friend heard about this and offered me an NP231 with an SYE already installed... for $150, $25 less than I paid for my SYE kit. So I'm buying it, then figuring out how badly hosed my tcase is. If it isn't, or is repairable, I'll slap the $150 one in the MJ, since it needs an SYE pretty badly too. If it is hosed, I'll rip the tcase I just did out, put this one in, and repair the hosed one to put in the MJ, or just rip the SYE out of it and put it in the MJ's tcase if this one is too badly damaged. I knew things were going too smoothly.
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Mar 18, 2014 19:19
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kastein posted:offered me an NP231 with an SYE already installed... for $150 God drat - buy it yesterday! That's $500 here in San Diego.
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Mar 18, 2014 23:53
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Really? NP231s are cheap, I can get them for $50 each at a local junkyard, $60 if they pull it for me, and I can get SYE kits for $175 each brand new. Should I consider putting together a pallet of pre-SYE'd NP231s to ship out for sale? Also, it sounds like my transfer case chain may be slapping the inside of the housing at times, I need to check tension on it when I drain the fluid and check for debris tonight. And I think I have some driveshaft vibration issues (stemming from the uncorrected rear pinion angle) but that was to be expected with how I did this. I did the world's most hamfucked door latch repair so my driver door will latch properly again last night... assuming the transfer case is fine when I check it tonight I will probably toss the shift linkage in and reinstall my electric cooling fan (which I've been running without for 2-3 years now) and maybe do a few other minor repairs. Running a fuckton of semi local dirt roads with an internet celebrity this weekend, so I should probably make sure it isn't completely haggard, just partially haggard by then 
kastein fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Mar 24, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 18:11
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I hate that your local junkyards have actual jeep stuff; and if you really can put together an NP231 with an SYE for $225 you could make a killing.
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Mar 19, 2014 18:19
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I can get them all day long for $130 at my local pull-a-part, or at a yard 15-20 miles from work that will let me pull my own parts $50 or pull them for me for $10 each, so figure $60 because their yard is the "stack em high in a foot of mud and let chaos reign" type. And they usually go for $50 each on the local club forums. I call it the rust tax... you guys have dozens of rust free clean chassis around, I can't find one to save my life. On the other hand, I have pick of the litter for pocket change when it comes to drivetrain parts out of rotted hulks in the boneyard. Engines are $180, transmissions/transfer cases/differentials $100-130 depending on what's on sale. There are always half a dozen Chevy LM7 5.3L donors with completely unmolested drivetrains in the boneyard, too. A friend of mine wanted one, I tipped him off and he got a complete engine, all accessories and wiring, ECU, and transmission for $370 out the door as I recall. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 18:23
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kastein posted:I can get them all day long for $130 at my local pull-a-part, or at a yard 15-20 miles from work that will let me pull my own parts $50 or pull them for me for $10 each, so figure $60 because their yard is the "stack em high in a foot of mud and let chaos reign" type.  I need to rent a u-haul and come visit so I can fill that sucker up with cheap drivetrain swaps.
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Mar 19, 2014 21:26
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Drive something rust free for us on the way over.
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Mar 19, 2014 21:37
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This is just making me think of a car parts version of dopewars.
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Mar 19, 2014 22:25
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That's more accurate than you would think. I've considered pulling a trailer load of front dana 60 axles and hauling them across the country selling them as I go... axles I can get here for $150 to $500 sell for $700 to $1500 in the midwest and southwest. Decided to troubleshoot the crapcan a bit more after work. Pulled the drain plug on the transfer case, dumped a little oil out, it looks a tiny tiny bit glittery but that might be residue from me working on it. Gonna pretend it is anyways. If poo poo keeps acting up I'll gently caress with it more, until then, I'm leaving it the hell alone! Checked if the chain was stretched, it isn't. Rear yoke only turns about 5 degrees when it's in 4x4 with the front yoke held still. Then went to put the rear driveshaft back in and realized the rear output yoke was flopping around like a fish out of water. It's supposed to be held securely in place by a 1.25" hex nut torqued to $texas. Apparently the stupid spline shaped rubber gasket for sealing the shaft that goes under the yoke nut kept me from torquing it properly when I installed it... so I cranked the gently caress out of it and put the driveshaft back in. Here's hoping that was the nasty vibration I was getting at neutral to zero throttle (it probably was.) If that was the problem, and it happens again, I'm ripping the stupid gasket out and replacing it with a handful of RTV. I've done a ton of SYE installs, most of them don't come with that gasket and I just poop RTV on the back of the yoke nut before installing it, never had an issue with that. This is what I get when I buy kits new instead of new-but-passed-around-and-never-installed and then actually read the instructions. Still ordering a giant pile of replacement shift fork pads, linkage bushings, gaskets, seals, etc to fix it up when I feel like pulling it back out.
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Mar 20, 2014 01:50
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kastein posted:I call it the rust tax... you guys have dozens of rust free clean chassis around, I can't find one to save my life. The '98 XJ I halfheartedly attempted to get from my cousin last year was a little dented, but absolutely immaculate rust wise. As in, there was NONE. In Michigan. I don't think he even knows what he has there. Explanation - he bought it when he lived in California, and then lived in Colorado for a while, before moving back to MI relatively recently. I don't know what became of it - I hope it didn't go to a junkyard, but I fear the worst  On the flip side of that, he somehow managed to wreck the 4.0 in 125k miles. It was weird, it started up and ran great when I went to look at it, no weird noises or smoke or anything. Until I put coolant in there (there was none, you see). It then started blowing lots of smoke, and had actual water bubbling out of the header right where the tube meets the flange. Opening up the radiator cap and swiping a finger in there ended up with your finger coming up covered in thick brown sludge. If it's still there when I'm home next, and I have my truck with me, I have a bad feeling that a money pit I don't have space, time, or funds for may end up following me home on a rented trailer 
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Mar 20, 2014 02:15
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Depending on how many XJs and MJs I part out and/or upgrade over the summer I may have a good 4.0 for you, so get that thing if you can. And the price is right, too. If you drag the jeep up here we could pretty easily slap a new one in over a weekend. The horrible vibes? yeah, they ended up being that loose rear output yoke nut. Smooth as silk all the way home... at least for one of my jeeps*. I think it started coming loose again a few miles from home however because the vibes started coming back a little. It's getting torn off and resealed with RTV instead of the dumbass rubber gasket thing after work tomorrow, gently caress this nonsense. Oh, and it appears my engine doesn't leak oil anymore. That's a new feature, it's been leaking like a sieve for years now. I had the jeep in the shop at work for a good hour or so checking it over and fixing things and it didn't leak a single drip of oil, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, or anything else on the floor... I'm pretty sure I have to stick some Honda badges on it or something now, because it certainly isn't a jeep anymore. * what this really means is "at 80mph the mirrors are still steady enough to see things, and the change in the center console isn't rattling."
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Mar 20, 2014 04:17
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kastein posted:...it didn't leak a single drip of oil, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, or anything else on the floor... Are you sure it contained those fluids at the time? I keed, I keed! Awesome job holding it together on no sleep. You're like the Hunter S. Thompson of crapcan Jeeps; a "gonzo mechanic" if you will.
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Mar 20, 2014 04:40
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Except I didn't really hold it together, I nearly grenaded a transfer case and tossed a driveshaft due to two mistakes made
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Mar 20, 2014 05:09
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Goddamn nut definitely came loose again on my way to work, enough of this horseshit, gonna RTV it tonight.
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Mar 20, 2014 14:47
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My sye didn't come with a splined rubber gasket - instructions were to blast the poo poo out of it with rtv.
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Mar 20, 2014 14:57
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Would half-blown $400 XJs that clog Craigslist here really be worth that much? The 4WD/4.0/auto combo is all over here.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:05
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My SYE kit came with two, one for the new rear tailhousing, and one to replace the front output's star gasket. It wasn't hard to push it a small way into the yokes, but now you guys are making me paranoid.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:07
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For some reason the front one went fine, the rear one didn't though. RTV it is. gently caress the instructions. I know I had enough torque on that poo poo, too, because I had a bigass pipe wrench on the yoke with my foot on it and was pulling on a 20" breaker bar with both hands. I probably threw 300+ foot pounds at that thing, the spec is minimum 140 foot pounds. It's a 1.25" nut so I wasn't really afraid of breaking it off.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:24
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kastein posted:Depending on how many XJs and MJs I part out and/or upgrade over the summer I may have a good 4.0 for you, so get that thing if you can. And the price is right, too. If you drag the jeep up here we could pretty easily slap a new one in over a weekend. Thanks, I appreciate the offer! I may give it another shot if he's still got it around in a month or two. I might finally be getting my Trans Am back soon  so I may get back there in a bit to grab it - if I do, I'll probably leave it home for now and trailer the Jeep up. I almost wonder if the motor is OK / rebuildable, it was running perfect before we added coolant. Although the oil seemed abnormally thin when we checked it (probably lots of coolant contamination), so who knows. The bearings are probably shredded. Best case, it's just a bad HG but impossible to tell until the motor is torn down.DJ Commie posted:Would half-blown $400 XJs that clog Craigslist here really be worth that much? The 4WD/4.0/auto combo is all over here. Well, out here the bodies rust away to nothing, while the drivetrains just keep going. So, you have tons and tons of drivetrain parts available for 5 dollars, because the demand isn't there due to the remaining bodies all being trash. Add in the fact that they are robust and dead simple to work on and "trail fix", and you have a recipe for a decent rust-free shell being worth quite a bit (compared to areas where rust isn't a thing, at least). I have no idea of actual value, since I've never actually seen a rust free one for sale  I have a feeling there's quite a few people with rotted out XJs that are dying for something like that out here though.
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Mar 21, 2014 03:26
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The problem is that they are dying for them, but they are all cheap assholes like me who will still balk and complain about paying $2k for a chassis even if it's rust free. Otherwise it's normal people who are going to pay $4500 for it off a buy-here-pay-here lot whether it's rust free or just has ten pounds of bondo and expanding foam jammed into the rockers and then painted over.
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Mar 21, 2014 03:42
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Yoke nut is cranked the gently caress on there with RTV instead of the stupid gasket now. It better not come off again. Went to install my transfer case shift linkage while waiting for the firmware stress test to finish on a vehicle at work and guess what? Some moron brought the brackets and bellcrank for a mantrans XJ with him, but the linkages for a slushbox. Fat lot of good this does me, they're different lengths. Though the mantrans ones are shorter... and there is a welder here. Hmmmmmmm. e: need to call dealer for part numbers 5300 5446 and 5300 5448 tomorrow (second one may be NLA) kastein fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Mar 21, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2014 05:23
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I will have 231 linkage available soon if you have any need for that. Everything that the cable shifter replaces anyway, which I think is most everything below the shifter handle.
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Mar 21, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2014 15:10
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For an XJ? I thought TJ ones were different... not sure. If they're the same, I'd love to give it a bad home RTV and cranking on the yoke nut fixed the issue, it came loose two days in a row, this morning after a drive home and back it's still holding solid. Less driveshaft vibration at 100 now than I had at like 55 with the stock setup and suspension height.
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Mar 21, 2014 17:08
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kastein posted:For an XJ? I thought TJ ones were different... not sure. If they're the same, I'd love to give it a bad home They probably are different I'll send it to you if you want to be an innovator or get a little 'hammery'. I'm not sure when I'm putting in the cable though, probably not for a week or two.
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Mar 21, 2014 18:18
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What exact year/drivetrain TJ is yours again? I have the factory parts catalogs, I'll just look up the part numbers yours uses and see if they're the same.
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Mar 21, 2014 18:44
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2002 TJ, nv3550, np231, 4.0
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Mar 21, 2014 20:43
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Looks like the linkages on yours should be 5210 4073 (the exact one I'm holding right now, also fits a 4.0/AW4 XJ) and 5207 8904 (which unfortunately won't fit mine) - thanks though!
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Mar 21, 2014 20:52
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Disabled the steering column park interlock - it was far easier than I expected. You just unplug the shifter cable from the steering column/ignition lock and it's disabled. Someone wants to buy the AW4 and all its associated bullshit from me, so I guess I'll toss that on the pile for them. Time to monkeyfuck this stupid transfer case shift linkage together now. The dealer says they can only get the first linkage I listed through a classic parts company and the other one is just plain NLA, so I'm on my own. Booger welding time.
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Mar 22, 2014 01:25
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I'd just like to extend a hearty gently caress YOU to the asshead who invented this shift linkage. Five stupid hard rubber bushings, a bellcrank which mounts to a bracket that obscures all the bolts holding it down, a plastic swivel ball pivot thingus, two linkages, and a pinch bolt adjuster that freezes solid at the first sight of water or salt. All jammed in the transmission tunnel above the front driveshaft. You need five elbows and double jointed fingers to get to the mounting bolts even if the driveshaft's out of the way, which it now is. gently caress. YOU. gently caress YOU gently caress YOU gently caress YOU. (not my picture, but exactly what I'm working on right now)  I've got both brackets and the bellcrank mounted now, so it's time to chop up the 4.0/AW4/NP231 shift linkages, get the bellcrank rotated about how I think it needs to be, then weld the linkages to fit that and install them. Then I'll realize it doesn't loving work right and toss the whole mess, then submit this mcmaster order for $180 worth of crap to make it into a shift cable based setup... like it should have been from the factory. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 03:06
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I thought that was a cramped clusterfuck on TJs 
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Mar 22, 2014 04:50
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