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XYLOPAGUS posted:You have to be decent at riding though! My buddy loved his SV650 to death (he's a CMRA licensed racer) but has crashed it so many times he has restricted himself to doing smaller bikes (250 / 300 / 500 endurance). He sold it last weekend. I took mine to the track as well as his bike. It's a bunch of fun! You really don't. You just need the guy on the liter bike to be worse then you. They go WOT in the straights and then slam on their brakes. They are the epitome of anti smooth.
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Mar 9, 2014 18:35
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xaarman posted:You really don't. You just need the guy on the liter bike to be worse then you. I still own a scooter, and besides being useful around town, it's a great way to try out or practice stuff at lower speeds than on the SV.
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Mar 9, 2014 21:39
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Ok I said I'd give it a month but I lied, I have no illusions about how I'm going to use this bike 99% of the time and thats idling through traffic, so I'm gonna switch back to the old handle bars. The problem is I switched in the first place because my old handlebars were bent from a drop, so I'll need new ones, which are expensive. I've been looking at this on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-02-Suzuki-SV650-SV-650-Handlebars-Handle-Bars-/380846186511?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58ac33a00f Bars from the 02 and below models will fit an 07 right? I cant imagine that they changed the riding position too much the bikes are very similar.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:35
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That seems pretty expensive, still - you can run just about any 7/8ths inch bar as long as you're willing to drill some holes in it. I much prefer the bend in the gen 1 bar to the gen 2 bar, but I prefer dirtbike bars over both of those.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:49
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Z3n posted:That seems pretty expensive, still - you can run just about any 7/8ths inch bar as long as you're willing to drill some holes in it. I much prefer the bend in the gen 1 bar to the gen 2 bar, but I prefer dirtbike bars over both of those. I've never done this before (I had a shop swap out my bars the first time since I also wanted them to look the bike over for any meaningful damage), so why would you drill holes? Would that be for the rearview mirrors, because I have bar ends that I use. I also saw these http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-03-04-...=item4ac6b79cfb and figured they'd be pretty similar, and way cheaper, what do you think? edit: just saw in the description that those sv1000 bars are bent, so I wanna avoid those. Do you have some examples on ebay of bars that would be very similar to the original riding position? I don't mind spending the money I just don't wanna do this again. ADINSX fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 17:52
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There are little locating pins in the switchgear that go into holes in the bars and lock the switchgear in place. If you buy those gen one bars, they'll probably be in the right place but you might have to re-drill. Don't know enough about the switchgear design changes between gen 1 and gen 2 to say for certain. Unfortunately you just have to sort of eyeball the fit, everyone has a slightly different taste on things.
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Mar 11, 2014 18:31
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ADINSX if you want to sell those bars (and if they're 7/8") I might be interested in picking them up. Let me know what you think.
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Mar 11, 2014 20:44
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Baller Witness Bro posted:ADINSX if you want to sell those bars (and if they're 7/8") I might be interested in picking them up. Let me know what you think. They are 7/8", specifically made for the sv650 gen 2, I will let you know because I'm pretty sure I will be selling them  edit: I went ahead and bought the gen 1 bars, hopefully won't have to drill anything. I'll probably have questions about installing them regardless when they arrive, this time I plan on doing the work myself. ADINSX fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 20:50
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So after changing my spark plugs to sort a problem with the bike cutting out on me I took the bike out for a shakedown. Got back and realised both my rear indicators were only attached by the wires running from the tail unit to the actual bulbs. How the hell are you supposed to fix this? As far as I can see they are only held on by friction?!
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Mar 14, 2014 23:45
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:So after changing my spark plugs to sort a problem with the bike cutting out on me I took the bike out for a shakedown. You may have to take the clear part of the lens off of the housing, then insert the stalk into the housing, then put the lens on, it kinda holds the stalk inside... if that makes any sense.
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Mar 14, 2014 23:51
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So here's one. It was a rainy night last night and is still super humid. The '05 SV650S I just got ran fine, started no problem etc before I bought it yesterday and I made sure the engine was cold before testing out the starter/test riding. I rolled it out this morning to go get it inspected and it started up but as I was leaving I pulled the clutch in and once the revs went down the engine died. Tried starting it back up and it won't start unless I give it a bit of throttle, then dies immediately after the throttle gets let off. Any ideas? Edit: walked back outside and tried to start it up. Didn't work the first time, second time it started up immediately and idled fine, revved the engine to see if it would stick and it did. I still would like to know what could cause this though. The second time I started it I twisted the throttle a bit, released it, then activated the ignition. Dunno if that means anything, but my first thought would be the fuel injectors might need work. ArbitraryTA fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Mar 15, 2014 |
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Mar 15, 2014 17:29
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I've just fixed exactly the same problem by fitting new spark plugs, when I took my old ones out the heads were completely black. If I understand the problem correctly, the plugs get swamped by petrol a few times which leads to a weak spark which is why it cuts out at low revs. The reason it'll start if you give it a handful of throttle is that you're sending a chunk of extra power through the weakened plugs. The good news is doing the plugs is really easy, this was the first time I've ever done them on any bike. On a side note I also changed the air filter at the same time, don't buy the HiFlo replacement that's on a couple of sites, the one they sent me was about three mm short so the air box wouldn't close. I had to run out and buy a genuine Suzuki one!
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Mar 15, 2014 17:49
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:I've just fixed exactly the same problem by fitting new spark plugs, when I took my old ones out the heads were completely black. Spark plugs, of course. I always forget about the sparkies. Thanks mate.
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Mar 15, 2014 17:50
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ArbitraryTA posted:Spark plugs, of course. I always forget about the sparkies. Thanks mate. No worries, hope it sorts your problem.
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Mar 15, 2014 20:08
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Also the front plugwell on the sv tends to pick up moisture and hold it, I'd make sure there's no water in there too. There's a lot of info out there on fixing that.
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Mar 15, 2014 22:17
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SaNChEzZ posted:Also the front plugwell on the sv tends to pick up moisture and hold it, I'd make sure there's no water in there too. There's a lot of info out there on fixing that. It might be that since after the bike dried off it was starting and running just fine. I'm still giving it a tune up regardless since the guy was so kind as to give me a Haynes manual for the bike so I have all the technical info I could need on it. -Also- I noticed another issue. The rear brake sticks down. As in I can push the brake lever down and it stays down, continues applying pressure to the disk. I'm definite that it wasn't doing this when I test drove it. From my experience I'd say that kind of issue requires a caliper cleaning and rebuild yeah? It's the rear brake so I'm not incredibly worried but I'll probably need to have a professional do it. I don't wanna risk screwing up the rebuild. Ah well. I got it for way under market value, I'm not surprised there's issues here and there.
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Mar 16, 2014 04:06
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Usually you can just remove footpeg and grease the hell out of the footpeg/lever connector - it gets grime in it and then it sticks. Also probably just old gas or whatever, put some fresh gas in it, go ride it and see if it does it again.
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Mar 16, 2014 05:46
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Z3n posted:Usually you can just remove footpeg and grease the hell out of the footpeg/lever connector - it gets grime in it and then it sticks. Actually the first thing I did was to run it down to near-empty. The drive back from where I picked it up lit up the fuel light so I just topped it up. I'm gonna monitor it to see if it keeps happening. I'll also look into greasing the lever connector, good to know as a step before loving with the caliper.
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Mar 16, 2014 05:54
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ArbitraryTA posted:Actually the first thing I did was to run it down to near-empty. The drive back from where I picked it up lit up the fuel light so I just topped it up. I'm gonna monitor it to see if it keeps happening. I'll also look into greasing the lever connector, good to know as a step before loving with the caliper. As for the gas, I'd also think about just adding in a bit of Seafoam to the tank the next time you top it off. Might help.
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Mar 16, 2014 06:59
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I just purchased a 2005 sv650s and read the first thing I should do is the "r6 throttle tube mod" but I'm reading the r6 tubes require modification on the second gens, are there other/better options or should I just buy and modify the r6 tube?
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Mar 16, 2014 21:17
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If you really want to do it then so be it but all it does is make the twist shorter. I don't see the point on a non track bike. Actually the sv is a little jerky anyway if you aren't smoothing it out with the clutch so I wouldn't worry about it. Edit- I only say this because you said you read that it's the first thing you should do. The first (and really only) mod I did was an aftermarket seat. The stock ones are terrible. Then if you want to improve the bike look at the suspension. kenny powerzzz fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Mar 16, 2014 |
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Mar 16, 2014 22:34
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tbb9 posted:I just purchased a 2005 sv650s and read the first thing I should do is the "r6 throttle tube mod" but I'm reading the r6 tubes require modification on the second gens, are there other/better options or should I just buy and modify the r6 tube? I'd just buy and modify the r6 tube...on the sv it's very nearly am ergonomic mod, having to regrip to get pinned sucks and leads to some bad habits that can bite you. Of course, a quarter turn throttle definitely wakes the bike up a bit too so...
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Mar 16, 2014 22:46
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Really?, the more you know I guess.
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Mar 17, 2014 00:18
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So what's the largest set of tires that I can put on the SV? I think it has 160 on the rear now, can it do 170 or 180?
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Mar 18, 2014 15:39
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You can do a 170 but honestly moving away from 160 will just make the bike handle slower and will wear out tires faster due to the mushrooming effect. Plus most modern tires aren't really available in 170. If you want to put a larger tire on, do the GSX-R rear rim mod.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:33
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So in other words, that's stupid... don't do it?
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Mar 18, 2014 17:12
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rotaryfun posted:So in other words, that's stupid... don't do it? Yeah you could consider that the gist of it.
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Mar 18, 2014 17:44
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How tight should I torque the bolt on the rear axel after adjusting my chain?
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Mar 20, 2014 02:58
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I usually tighten it to around 50 foot pounds.
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Mar 20, 2014 03:36
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tbb9 posted:How tight should I torque the bolt on the rear axel after adjusting my chain? EDIT: Haynes manual say 65 Nm for anything pre-K3, 100 Nm for K3 and onward. 65 Nm = 47.94 foot pounds 100 Nm = 73.75 foot pounds Goredema fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 20, 2014 08:15
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Alright thanks, I ordered a Haynes manual today, it's so much scarier working on my shiny new bike than it was on my rusty and cracked 250
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Mar 20, 2014 11:43
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tbb9 posted:Alright thanks, I ordered a Haynes manual today, it's so much scarier working on my shiny new bike than it was on my rusty and cracked 250 Good call, the Haynes manual is friggin' awesome. Oh, one other thing: if you take the back wheel off, for the love of god make sure to put it back on with all the spacers and stuff in the right order. Doing it wrong results in the wheel bearings burning up almost immediately, which is a Bad Thing.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:47
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I actually got the Hayne's manual with my bike. Shop manuals are love. Anyways, I was curious of a thing. Coming for a cruiser I love everything about my bike but the sound. Or lack thereof. What's a decent slip on to give me a nice throaty sound when I'm driving around?
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Mar 21, 2014 14:15
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ArbitraryTA posted:I actually got the Hayne's manual with my bike. Shop manuals are love. I'd just search a bunch of YouTube till you find something you like, my bike came with a yoshimura rs-3c and I love it, PO had a baffle he never installed and I can see why. Svrider.com has lead me to believe that I can buy a tail case that replaces my pillion seat and uses the lock, I haven't been able to find anything online though, is this a myth? tbb9 fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Mar 21, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2014 14:40
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ArbitraryTA posted:What's a decent slip on to give me a nice throaty sound when I'm driving around?
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Mar 21, 2014 17:05
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Ok after driving a 120 mile round trip yesterday I am thinking the stock seat needs replacing forever. Any good seats for 650s that have a bit more cushion to them or am I still just spoiled from the touring seat I had on my last bike?
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Mar 22, 2014 14:56
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I cannot say enough about the Sargent seat. By far the best mod I did to my Sv. Comfortable all day long and it angles a little differently so your nuts aren't smashed into the tank when you decel. It is a little shorter so if you're a shorter guy it lowers seat height by about an inch. I'm 6'2" so I didn't need that inch but it doesn't bother me.
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Mar 22, 2014 15:00
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kenny powerzzz posted:I cannot say enough about the Sargent seat. By far the best mod I did to my Sv. Comfortable all day long and it angles a little differently so your nuts aren't smashed into the tank when you decel. It is a little shorter so if you're a shorter guy it lowers seat height by about an inch. I'm 6'2" so I didn't need that inch but it doesn't bother me. Converted SV650 to full time track bike Selling Sargent seat $220 shipped PM for pics
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Mar 22, 2014 16:21
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So I'm installing some old stock handlebars back on my sv650 (I had suburban machinery bars but didn't like them), it looks like those drilled holes line up between the two bars, but I'm not sure what they're used for... I imagine its to keep the throttle body from slipping around but I'm not sure what screw goes through it, or even how a screw could since its only drilled on top of the bar (on both bars) Could someone post a guide for swapping bars, something with pictures possibly? I couldn't find anything on google because apparently this is the easiest thing in the world, but I'm screwing it up.
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Mar 23, 2014 22:36
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ADINSX posted:So I'm installing some old stock handlebars back on my sv650 (I had suburban machinery bars but didn't like them), it looks like those drilled holes line up between the two bars, but I'm not sure what they're used for... I imagine its to keep the throttle body from slipping around but I'm not sure what screw goes through it, or even how a screw could since its only drilled on top of the bar (on both bars) The switchgear has a little peg on the inside that sits in that hole. The starter/kill switch box thingy. Its to keep the switchgear from spinning around the bar if the screws holding it together get loose.
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Mar 23, 2014 22:58
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