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I think (fingers crossed), I have finally sorted out my exhaust nightmare. The biggest issue was my Grimmspeed up pipe flange being warped to poo poo and back. Here's a series of photos showing how bad it was: This is with the bolts tightened to spec. Notice the obvious gap. I sent this same photo to Grimmspeed and was told that it doesn't look like it should be a problem, "It looks as if it's still sealing around he fire ring."  : I pulled the up pipe back off the car (without removing the down pipe!), and did some more checking. Here's a couple shots where I tried to get a good angle showing just how willy wonka this thing was:   In this one I put water on the face and stuck a piece of glass on top. You can see the low spots by where the edge of the water is. Surprise, it was low where my leaks were!  Solution? An hour of my life and a table top belt sander. This is a few minutes in. The high spots immediately come off:  Getting closer:  Done! Notice the high quality pit free steel Grimmspeed uses  : After that I also sanded the face of the manifold to a mirror finish and put it all back together. I wish I had done the cross pipe side as well, because that one also leaked, but was fixed with another new gasket. Finally, I replaced the O2 sensor, not because the old one was bad, but because the old one wouldn't seal to the bung and I had a leak around it. The new one had a crush washer and sealed up nice. A/F ratio looks much better. It still goes to max now and then (20.3), but this is usually just after letting off the gas, so I think that's normal. Hillridge fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 20, 2014 17:28
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Hillridge posted:I think (fingers crossed), I have finally sorted out my exhaust nightmare. I would've called Grimmspeed. I've heard they're nice about this kind of thing.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:21
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Yakattak posted:Speaking of strut chat. I've been looking into struts and springs. I couldn't find any on your site Jamal but I'm open to suggestions. Depends on what car you have and how much you want to spend. Tokico D-specs used to be one of the go-to struts but now they are a lot more expensive and I've heard of reliability issues. Konis with RCE springs are still a great option if you're ok with doing a little work (cutting up the stock struts is actually really straightforward). After that you start getting into coilovers. The ST parts are basically a KW V1, so you get a decent non adjustable (and non servicable) damper, stiffer springs, and ride height adjustment for under $1000. If you have an 08+ there are also the RCE bilstein struts. JG Wentworth posted:Honestly , depending on what you want to do a rebuild with custom internals to match your springs would be the best approach. That way you have no fitment issues, easy install, cheaper price, and comparable performance. That only works if you have an 04-07 STI. If you don't and still want to go that way, by the time you have bought some new struts and sent them in you are better off with other options.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:21
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Geirskogul posted:I wasn't losing that much oil or anything, but the smoking at stoplights after coming off the freeway was...embarrassing, to put it mildly. One 30-mile commute later and I don't see any smoking yet. While I was down there I also removed, copper RTV'd a cracked area, and tightened the exhaust-to-head gasket and there's no more diesel-like sound under load anymore. I wish chrisGT would post a video of his car...
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Mar 20, 2014 18:24
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Yakattak posted:I would've called Grimmspeed. I've heard they're nice about this kind of thing. I did, repeatedly. They were nice, and offered ideas as to what I could try. They just refused to believe the pipe could be the problem. The final suggestion I got was to do exactly what I did and sand it flat, so I guess they helped me solve it.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:32
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jamal posted:That only works if you have an 04-07 STI. If you don't and still want to go that way, by the time you have bought some new struts and sent them in you are better off with other options. And they also like to blow up. I nuked one after 40 miles of stage rally. But I get it, they aren't meant for that kind of abuse. The dspecs I threw on as spares though took the punishing alright though. You'd think a fresh revalved sti strut would do better than a dspec but nope. Another dude ran a set for vermont winter challenge on his 05 sti which had no speeds over 45mph and was all on snow, and they were nuked after that where a dspec or something would have held up without issue. I am not convinced STi struts will hold up to intense punishment.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:39
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My next project looks like it will be control arm bushings: Is this one of those things where you just buy new control arms, or is it easy to press the old bushings out and new in? Are these worth upgrading, or is OEM fine?
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Mar 20, 2014 19:11
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Hillridge posted:My next project looks like it will be control arm bushings: I burned those motherfuckers out of my Impreza arms. Dunno about Legos.
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Mar 20, 2014 19:15
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jamal posted:Depends on what car you have and how much you want to spend. Tokico D-specs used to be one of the go-to struts but now they are a lot more expensive and I've heard of reliability issues. Konis with RCE springs are still a great option if you're ok with doing a little work (cutting up the stock struts is actually really straightforward). I'm not looking to spend over $1000 because then I might as well get coilovers. I was thinking KYB AGXs with like Prodrive/Swift springs, but the only vendor that has them is RSD and I don't really care for RSD.
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Mar 20, 2014 19:15
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If Rallysport carries something then I also do.
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Mar 20, 2014 19:40
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Hillridge posted:My next project looks like it will be control arm bushings: https://www.avoturboworld.com/index...ducts&Itemid=26 Avo makes control arm bushings. Get the ones that increase caster if you want better turn in (which most subarus are in desperate need of). If its just a commuter or whatever stock is fine. I burn out all my bushings with an O/A torch and if there is an inner ring I hacksaw them out. Then new bushings just drop in.
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Mar 20, 2014 19:50
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Do the aftermarket ones add harshness? I'd like to improve handling, but at the same time I do enough driving on unpaved roads to need the suspension to be doing its job. I know handling and comfort are often mutually exclusive when you're talking about bushings. Is burning/cutting them out really that much easier than pressing them out? I have access to a 20 ton press. Not sure about the right size cups though.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:00
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I don't think avo has ever done an update to those so I like the whiteline version more.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:04
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I don't have a press but I have O/A and a sawzall. Subaru inner rings are really thin, so you'll need something the perfect size to get the press on them.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:31
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With the steel arms you have very little area to press on. So the two things have to be exactly the right size.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:43
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Geirskogul posted:Oil poo poo Nope, apparently all the work I did (including doing the timing, again) is all for naught. It looks like there's still oil coming from somewhere inside the timing cover. Probably the same exact cam seal or something. While most of the oil actually exits the timing cover from the center area underneath the balancer (and makes the oil pump, oil filter, and the entire underside of the car filthy), last night when I took the timing covers off the RH exhaust cam seal was wet with oil, and there was a small puddle underneath inside the cover itself. All my work last night seemed to do is change where the oil comes out (timing covers must have been on cockeyed before) so it gathers and spills out and covers the oil pan and everything behind it. The entire underside of the engine bay, except around the exhaust pipes, is coated with oil and I can't figure out exactly where it's from 
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Mar 20, 2014 22:37
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Slow is Fast posted:I don't have a press but I have O/A and a sawzall. Subaru inner rings are really thin, so you'll need something the perfect size to get the press on them. For a different application, but same idea, I cut out the old one and welded it back together, making one that was smaller by a few thou but able to press the new one in.
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Mar 20, 2014 22:38
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhgMEi5aqmY
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Mar 21, 2014 15:29
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So now that I have my exhaust issues sorted out, the obvious course of action is to gently caress with the car some more. I've had a project on the back burner for a long time now that I'd like to get started on, but I could use some advice. I want to build a digital gauge display that fits into my flip open cubby under the clock/trip computer. I know these exist commercially, but they are seriously overpriced for the electronics in them, and I wanted to make a custom one anyway. I'm fine with the display/electronics side of things. I have that probably 80% done by reusing a previous design I did for something completely unrelated. I need help with finding reasonably priced, reliable, sending units for the things I want to monitor. To start out that will likely be boost, oil pressure and temp, and coolant temp. I'll have plenty of room for more if I want them. Most of what I found is a gauge/sender combo, and I just want the sender. Suggestions?
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Mar 21, 2014 17:26
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Have you considered one of those bluetooth ODB things, and a cheap smartphone?
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Mar 21, 2014 17:29
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http://gtboostgauge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 I have one of these, which probably fits in the "overpriced electronics" stuff you mention, but maybe some inspiration. There was a guy, Casiopolis(?) I think on LegacyGT.com who made custom cubby ABS to gauge mount plates.
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Mar 21, 2014 18:12
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Yeah I really liked the look of that one, but wanted to do more with it and mount it in the cubby rather than vents. The BT idea isn't bad, but I have an Accessport that I could hook up for a similar result.
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Mar 21, 2014 19:01
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Hillridge posted:So now that I have my exhaust issues sorted out, the obvious course of action is to gently caress with the car some more. AEM sells just the senders: http://www.aemelectronics.com/sensors-and-connectors-14/?osCsid=ubcqjr804osc3v2uhpo66lumn1 I get a pretty good discount on their stuff and would be interested in such a product. I've been considering a VEI dual gauge because all I want is coolant temp and oil pressure but something that will take different gauge inputs would be really cool. It could even just display on a smart phone since I use one for music in the car anyway.
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Mar 21, 2014 19:28
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If you do go AEM, you will need to either get an adapter for the threads, or do what I did and buy a 1/8 NPT tap.
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Mar 21, 2014 19:44
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jamal posted:AEM sells just the senders: I found these ones too, any idea on quality? http://prosportgauges.com/prosport-electric-senders.aspx Can you do 2 oil gauges (pressure/temp) off of a single galley plug, or is a sandwich adapter a better/easier way to achieve this?
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Mar 21, 2014 20:08
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There are two galley plugs you can access. One right behind the alt/ps where the stock pressure sender goes and another behind it on the other side of the manifold.
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Mar 21, 2014 20:21
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Hillridge posted:I found these ones too, any idea on quality? I use prosport. The gauges are a bit cheap but the senders are great. They're completely accurate to the secondary gauges my shop hooked up during dyno testing.
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Mar 21, 2014 22:16
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My '02 WRX 5MT has been making a funny noise lately. If the car is in gear and coasting off throttle, I get this low pitched, sporadic whirring (kind of) from what sounds like the rear drivetrain. If I throw the car in neutral, it stops. The whirring sounds the same regardless of speed. Any ideas?
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Mar 21, 2014 22:58
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I really don't know poo poo about subarus but that sounds like a worn out drive pinion bearing
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Mar 22, 2014 03:34
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Welp, went to replace my probably original to the car ball joints this afternoon only to discover that the previous owner had helpfully sheared off the head of the retaining bolt holding the driver's side ball joint in. Three hours of drilling, penetrating oil and bending easyouts and the loving thing is still in there. I'm assuming heating it will cook the wheel bearing due to proximity? At this point I'm tempted just to throw in the towel and replace the upright. tl;dr: gently caress salted roads. 
fralbjabar fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Mar 23, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 00:55
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Drill from the opposite side so that the rotation of the drill bit is helping it unthread. You might get lucky and have it come out before you have to drill the whole thing. Then just put a long bolt all the way through. And don't over torque that bolt or it can crack the upright.
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Mar 23, 2014 01:52
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I think that particular bolt should win an award for making every Subaru suspension job turn into a day long poo poo show.
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Mar 23, 2014 07:06
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When that happened to me I used progressively bigger drill bits until I managed to drill out most of the bolt. Basically only the threads remained which were easy to get out.
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Mar 23, 2014 08:18
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Seriously, goddamn this bolt is stuck. How does this even happen, it's steel/steel and not even threaded the whole way! Only time I've ever seen something this stuck was a steel bolt into magnesium and then left outside in New England for 20 years. Anyhow, thanks Jamal for that advice, I'll try drilling it out from the other end and hope I get lucky (I probably won't). I soaked it again with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight so maybe it'll be looser now? Please?
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Mar 23, 2014 14:55
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fralbjabar posted:Seriously, goddamn this bolt is stuck. How does this even happen, it's steel/steel and not even threaded the whole way! Only time I've ever seen something this stuck was a steel bolt into magnesium and then left outside in New England for 20 years. That bolt is always stuck. I think someone at Subaru soaks it in saltwater before putting it in.
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Mar 23, 2014 15:02
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After years of searching I finally came across a right hand drive first gen legacy. Needs some work on the exterior, engine is having some sort of intermittent issue but only has 109k miles. Looks nice next to my fourth gen: When I bought this car the guy told me that the motor was knocking "really bad," and would need to be replaced. When I started it up to drive home it was very loud, but quieted down to this point after just a few minutes: 93 Subaru Legacy running smooth - YouTube However, when I started it this morning it was super loud again and didn't quiet down much after warming up. Here is a video of how it sounded this morning: 93 Subaru Legacy Click Clackin' - YouTube I happened to be near my parents house so I took it by there for my dad to check out. He said it sounds to him like an issue with the lifters on the right side of the motor, with some slight noise coming from the timing cover. Anyone want to offer some insight? The car only has 109k miles, oil is clean. Somebody fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 15:34
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I have sort of an odd question. My girlfriend has a 5-sod 2009 Forester, and she's been having sort of an annoyance with how far back the pedals are for her in comparison to the shifter. Her old car was a first gen CRV which felt more SUV like when you sat in it, whereas the forester has more of a car like sitting position. She's about 5'2" and has to sit up pretty close to be able to use the clutch properly, and that puts her in an awkward position with the shift to where she says its really uncomfortable to drive. I was doing a bit of research on stuff like pedal extenders and was wondering if anyone has any clue on them. I've found a couple different fully adjustable ones that clock in around $200ish for the full 3 pedal set. I just wanted to know if anyone had any sort of experience with something like this, and how safe they would be and everything. She loves the car besides that.
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Mar 23, 2014 17:12
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fralbjabar posted:How does this even happen, it's steel/steel and not even threaded the whole way! I snapped off a caliper bracket bolt once trying to change a rotor on the front. I had assumed the bolt seized in the bracket threads. NOPE! It had seized in the unthreaded hole that the bolt passed through. I figured that out when I was able to rotate the bracket freely but the bolt wasn't moving. I eventually swung the bracket out 90 degrees and kept whacking it with a deadblow hammer on each side until I was able to wiggle the bolt out.
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Mar 23, 2014 19:31
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So my wifes 96 outback sport got a flat and I can't get my 4 way to seat over the lugs, it's like it's not deep enough. We bought the car used and the original jack/tire changing tool aren't in the car. Do these things need a special tire lug wrench or something? Am I going to have to go buy a 19mm thin wall deep socket now?
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Mar 24, 2014 00:44
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Whale Cancer posted:So my wifes 96 outback sport got a flat and I can't get my 4 way to seat over the lugs, it's like it's not deep enough. We bought the car used and the original jack/tire changing tool aren't in the car. Do these things need a special tire lug wrench or something? Am I going to have to go buy a 19mm thin wall deep socket now? I have a four-way tire iron that works fine. You don't want the original, you can't get enough leverage with them if the lugs were overtorqued by the last guy. I don't think you need a thin wall socket, but it does need to be deep.
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Mar 24, 2014 02:35
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