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Ok cool. It's AGFA ir stuff, I'd love to get my hands on some aerochrome but I have reservations against paying $40-50 for a roll of 120. I've never actually shot IR film before and I still need to get a filter, but are there any special considerations for shooting IR film?
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Mar 28, 2014 22:58
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Get yourself a red or orange filter otherwise you won't get the full IR effect. And I've found that the airports seem to be using scanners on checked baggage that aren't too powerful. I've done Aus to US flights and had Instax film in a checked bag and seen no effects whatsoever, and that stuff is ISO 800.
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Mar 28, 2014 23:16
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dog nougat posted:Ok cool. It's AGFA ir stuff, I'd love to get my hands on some aerochrome but I have reservations against paying $40-50 for a roll of 120. I've never actually shot IR film before and I still need to get a filter, but are there any special considerations for shooting IR film?
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Mar 29, 2014 01:11
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Better make every shot count at nearly $10 a pop once you develop and scan.
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Mar 29, 2014 01:13
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Yeah, I'm excited to try it out, but I've been reacquainting myself with my TLR before popping my IR film in there. I figure my first roll probably won't turn out so well anyway until I can get a feel for shooting with the film. Worst case scenario, I wasted $10. Mounting a filter is going to be a tricky proposition, since there's not actually any mounting solution. Worst case scenario I can just tape it to the camera.
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Mar 29, 2014 01:31
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dog nougat posted:Yeah, I'm excited to try it out, but I've been reacquainting myself with my TLR before popping my IR film in there. I figure my first roll probably won't turn out so well anyway until I can get a feel for shooting with the film. Worst case scenario, I wasted $10. Most tlr's accept bayonet style filters made for them. What kind of tlr are you going to be using?
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Mar 29, 2014 01:34
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I have a Yashica A. There's no mount on the lenses at all, so it's far from ideal, but it's what I have. I'll also have to tape up the film advance window to keep the light out, and mark the body and film advance knob to know how far to advance my film.
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Mar 29, 2014 01:42
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They make push on filters (I think that camera needs a 32mm push on filter) so they might be hard to find, but could be worth it if you're shooting that expensive of film.
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Mar 29, 2014 01:49
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Yeah it's 32mm, I measured it yesterday. I've been looking around online to see what I can find, but I haven't found much yet. I just need that magical word combo. edit: Push on adapter was the key, it seems that I need a Kodak Series VI adapter ring and the appropriate filters. dog nougat fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Mar 29, 2014 |
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Mar 29, 2014 01:55
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dog nougat posted:Ok cool. It's AGFA ir stuff, I'd love to get my hands on some aerochrome but I have reservations against paying $40-50 for a roll of 120. I've never actually shot IR film before and I still need to get a filter, but are there any special considerations for shooting IR film? I paid about that for a roll of 120 roll of Aerochrome a few months back, it's in my freezer, waiting for that special day. Advice I got from here was shoot in fairly flat lighting as the film has a pretty low dynamic range. Also bring a digital camera and check your exposure with one as well as a light meter, it's so drat expensive, you don't want to risk wasting any shots. Best of luck!
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Mar 29, 2014 02:40
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So I just mixed some c-41 chemicals and some cheapo store films shot. I'm using the Unicolor kit I got from freestyle. I've got 4 rolls I want to develop, but I'm just too tired to do it right now.
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Mar 29, 2014 04:46
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Well, the Local camera shop had a Series VI adapter that fit my camera, along with a red #25 filter. I should've grabbed an adapter ring for 44mm to 49 or some common size so I can get an IR filter. I pretty excited to jump into the world of filters.
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Mar 30, 2014 03:17
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My neighbor is an extremely cool guy. I had noticed some old film cameras on display in his house (didn't get a good look, looked like some TLRs among others) and mentioned that I just started shooting film. He came over and checked out my "new" enlarger, and brought presents! A lightbox and a loupe. I immediately dug through my box of electronic junk and found a 9V power supply that works with it, and now I'm in business! One picture I took of yellow flowers is a really intense blue in negative... I actually think it's prettier in blue. Edit: Walgreens gave me my negatives in a really tight little continuous roll. How would you recommend straightening them out so I can cut them into groups of 5? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Mar 30, 2014 |
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Mar 30, 2014 03:21
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Pham Nuwen posted:Edit: Walgreens gave me my negatives in a really tight little continuous roll. How would you recommend straightening them out so I can cut them into groups of 5? Cut into groups of 5, put in sleeves. Sandwich between big thick photo art books (helps the art seep in so your photos look better).
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Mar 30, 2014 04:23
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If you're having a hard time keeping them flat enough to cut into strips of 5, I found that rolling film backwards helped reduce the curl. You'll need to leave it overnight, though.
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Mar 30, 2014 04:40
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So i finally tried this development thing, I'm surprised i didn't gently caress it up! Thanks 8th-snype for writing the how to guide way back on the first page!
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Mar 30, 2014 17:12
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This is probably sacrilege, but anyone have recommends are getting negatives scanned? I have about a dozen rolls of developed film that I would like digitized.
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Mar 30, 2014 17:22
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Not sacrilege at all, I think most people here get their negatives scanned in some way or other. You should look into the scanner thread for more info I think. Also with more information: Why do you want them scanned, internet or archival? Do you plan on makings prints afterwards, etc etc. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3307521 Also, congratulations Ezekiel, it's a great feeling developing your first roll.
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Mar 30, 2014 17:39
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So i finally tried this development thing, I'm surprised i didn't gently caress it up! Looks like they turned out pretty well, but don't worry you'll gently caress it up at some point.
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Mar 30, 2014 19:45
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I think I have a problem. I unreasonably want a Robot 24x24 camera. Someone convince me that this is a terrible idea.
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Mar 30, 2014 21:02
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Looks cool and sounds like a nice lens, go for it and let us know how awesome it is.
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Mar 30, 2014 21:26
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Shellman posted:Cut into groups of 5, put in sleeves. Sandwich between big thick photo art books (helps the art seep in so your photos look better). This is the correct answer. Since you've got a particular shot with some strong blue/yellow going on, find something Swedish.
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Mar 31, 2014 00:41
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   First time shooting. How did I do?
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Apr 2, 2014 22:43
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I stumbled on this recently, although no one here does photomicrography the development problems does seem pretty handy to have. Also explains the sprocket hole lines someone posted awhile back. http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/primer/photomicrography/bwprocessingerrors.html
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Apr 5, 2014 15:49
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I stumbled on this recently, although no one here does photomicrography the development problems does seem pretty handy to have. Also explains the sprocket hole lines someone posted awhile back. This is really cool. Also confirms that I probably scratched some of my negatives while wrestling with getting 120 spooled in the dark.
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Apr 5, 2014 17:45
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I'd like some help identifying the approximate age of a film. A while ago I found an old camera on a shelf by my parents, it had a partially shot film loaded, but the camera's motor was dead and new batteries didn't work. The camera is a Minolta Riva AF35EX with date imprinting back. I had to practically tear the film out, working against the dead motor. The film is a Kodak Gold Ultra 400, 24 exposure. The cassette has DX coding. It also has the number FA22488A printed along the bottom edge (bottom = opposite of where the spool sticks out). It has the number 8 printed in large type in a box. I developed the film in Rodinal as 1+100 stand. It seems to have had very dense base fog, from the age. I got some faint images on it, six total. There are no edge markings on the developed film, anywhere I can see. Neither I nor my mom can recognize the pictures. So, I'm really wondering how old it might actually be. Album of the pictures.
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Apr 5, 2014 19:12
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Apr 5, 2014 19:26
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What am I gonna do when freestyle runs out of Arista?
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Apr 6, 2014 05:27
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voodoorootbeer posted:What am I gonna do when freestyle runs out of Arista? It's probably going to be replaced by cheap HP5, so I'm quite OK with it actually...
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Apr 6, 2014 05:49
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nielsm posted:I'd like some help identifying the approximate age of a film. No older than 21 years, that camera was released in 1993.
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Apr 6, 2014 06:53
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nielsm posted:I'd like some help identifying the approximate age of a film. Some digging leads me to think that Kodak Gold Ultra 400 was also released in 1993. If kodak rebranded in Europe at the same time as America, that might narrow things down to anywhere between 1993 and 2007. If you want to narrow it down look at the edge of the film, it probably says something like GOLD 400-6 or GOLD 400-3, that number at the end will tell you the generation of the film stock and might narrow stuff down. e. If it's 400-6 you're looking at probably 1998 or newer, 400-5 is 96-98, 400-4 is 1994-1996, and 400-3 between 93 and 94. Of course, that assumes that what I've found on some old forum posts is accurate and that kodak updated film bases for 100 and 400 speed gold around the same time and in europe and america at the same time, and that the user actually shot the film around when it was made. e2. I can't believe I spent this much time looking for this. Why can't they timestamp their film like they do with the motion picture line! Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Apr 6, 2014 |
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Apr 6, 2014 07:05
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Any chance the dead batteries have a date on them? Or was that not a thing in the 90s?
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Apr 6, 2014 07:18
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Mr. Despair posted:Some digging leads me to think that Kodak Gold Ultra 400 was also released in 1993. If kodak rebranded in Europe at the same time as America, that might narrow things down to anywhere between 1993 and 2007. I thought the film didn't have edge markings, but apparently I didn't look hard enough. It's actually 400-8, so it sounds like relatively recent? The batteries also have 08-2005 printed on them. The real mystery is then, who went to somewhere in South America in the early 2000's.
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Apr 6, 2014 09:46
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Earliest I can find any reference of a 400-8 code is from 2004, so probably newer than that. e. The kids JETS hat has to be newer than 1998 too. Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Apr 6, 2014 |
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Apr 6, 2014 14:24
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This is a fun mystery - the case of the South American (Kodak) Gold! How long have your parents been in that house? Any chance that a visitor / former owner / wandering vagrant left the camera on that shelf sometime around 2004 or 2005? Does your family include any slightly-embarrassing members, like an eccentric uncle, who might have just gone to South America for no particular reason, shot some pictures of a kid in a Jets hat, then abandoned the camera at your parents' place? Did your parents participate (badly) in some kind of camera-around-the-world project?
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Apr 6, 2014 20:12
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I found a thing at the thrift store again
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Apr 6, 2014 23:31
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Nice!!
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Apr 6, 2014 23:55
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That lens is gorgeous.
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Apr 6, 2014 23:58
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Came in here to say I've got some film for sale in the for-sale thread. B/W 135 and 4x5. Please somebody buy it all so I can regain the fridge space.
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Apr 9, 2014 00:34
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Dog Case posted:I found a thing at the thrift store again I love my Pen FT. You'll get some beautiful pictures out of it. I would just say that slides are kind of a waste of time and money in them -- not that the pictures are bad, but there's no oomph like 135 and larger slides. Also, mounts are a pain to find.
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Apr 9, 2014 01:32
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