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This is my friend's dog Moose. He is a friendly energetic 5 year old lab mix.  He just adopted another dog! A little sister for Moose!   We don't know what to name her! Help us come up with something for the adorable little girl.
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Apr 1, 2014 23:21
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Buggiezor posted:This is my friend's dog Moose. He is a friendly energetic 5 year old lab mix. Squirrel is the only appropriate name, if they are going to be hanging out together.
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Apr 2, 2014 04:00
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Max posted:Squirrel is the only appropriate name, if they are going to be hanging out together. Seconding this. I was devastated to hear that the dude at the dog park with the Anatolian Shepherd named rocky didn't name his little chihuahua beagle Bullwinkle .
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Apr 2, 2014 04:06
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Squirrel came to my mind too! But they didn't seem impressed.  My friend wants to name her Noodle. His gf is not amused and says she won't have her little pup named Noodle.
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Apr 2, 2014 05:02
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That dog's gonna be named Alexandra or something similarly retch-worthy.
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Apr 2, 2014 05:16
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Seconding Squirrel but Lady would be cute too.
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Apr 2, 2014 05:35
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Either Squirrel or "Not-Moose"
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Apr 2, 2014 13:52
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Dairy Queen
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Apr 2, 2014 21:58
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In a few weeks I will be going to a rescue to meet a couple of dogs that I am interested in re-homing, to see if we get along and if their personality matches mine etc. I feel like it's a blind date, haha. In the mean time, I want to start looking at toys/beds/essentials for them so I can be ready if my references go through and I can take one home. They are Japanese Spitzs, so medium sized dogs. Does the thread have any good recommendations, maybe on Amazon?
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Apr 2, 2014 22:56
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Operation Juicebox posted:In a few weeks I will be going to a rescue to meet a couple of dogs that I am interested in re-homing, to see if we get along and if their personality matches mine etc. I feel like it's a blind date, haha. In the mean time, I want to start looking at toys/beds/essentials for them so I can be ready if my references go through and I can take one home. The first post has a bunch of suggestions for equipment, toys and training methods. Also if there is a specific item you're looking for simply asking in here generally get's you the best recommendations. Offhand though? Kong wobbler. Slows down eating, keeps them occupied, maintains owner sanity for a few minutes.
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Apr 3, 2014 14:41
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 Buddy here is a great puppy but I have a problem. He doesn't tell me when he needs to go outside. Like, I'll be watching Netflix or something and he'll leave the room and most of the time he just wants a toy he left behind or water but sometimes he wants to go out. He'll stand by the door for a bit and then go in the house if I don't let him out. Now, obviously, a short term solution is keep a better eye on him but how can I teach him to actually alert me that he wants to go out?
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Apr 3, 2014 19:38
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You can try to train him to use potty bells. My dog does not bark or scratch at doors, he just stands there like an idiot looking forlorn. Now he smacks his face against the sliding door slats when he wants out. Same basic principle as the bells.
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Apr 3, 2014 19:49
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We just got a puppy a month ago, meet Max! Max is main Rott, partial lab. He is a typical puppy, chews everything, including trying to get the cat's tails. He nibbles my shoelaces, the laundry basket, ears, hair, oh he loves hair. He also enjoys keeping us up at all hours, and whining every hour and a half through the night unless one of us sleeps on the floor with him. He is crated/gated in the kitchen, and ideally he would be crated throughout the night, however, as mentioned above, he wakes up ALL night if he's crated, but will sleep for 3-4 hour stretches if not. Last night I got 4.5 hours of straight sleep for the first time since we got him. He is 12 weeks old now, and I know he's capable of it, I just don't know how to get him to WANT to do it. We start training with him tonight. What are some good high value treats? We tried some random buffalo puppy ones that he didn't particularly care about. This is at 10 weeks.
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Apr 3, 2014 20:36
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kiriana posted:We just got a puppy a month ago, meet Max! Max is main Rott, partial lab. He is a typical puppy, chews everything, including trying to get the cat's tails. He nibbles my shoelaces, the laundry basket, ears, hair, oh he loves hair. He also enjoys keeping us up at all hours, and whining every hour and a half through the night unless one of us sleeps on the floor with him. He is crated/gated in the kitchen, and ideally he would be crated throughout the night, however, as mentioned above, he wakes up ALL night if he's crated, but will sleep for 3-4 hour stretches if not. Last night I got 4.5 hours of straight sleep for the first time since we got him. He is 12 weeks old now, and I know he's capable of it, I just don't know how to get him to WANT to do it. We start training with him tonight. What are some good high value treats? We tried some random buffalo puppy ones that he didn't particularly care about. This is at 10 weeks. Want to preface this by saying that I'm not an expert, I'm just also raising a puppy (currently 5 mo, had since 7 wks), and here's what worked for me or I've read works for others. I'm assuming you take him out to potty before bedtime; is it a walk, or just being let out into the yard? If its the latter, I would advise doing a shortish walk (around that age I took my puppy around the block, sometimes 2 blocks). Check with your vet first to make sure your area doesnt have a lot of parvo first, though. For a pup that small, even a short walk gets some energy out and stimulates their mind a bit. Have you done any crate or x-pen training with the pup? If you haven't, (going to refer to your gated off kitchen as an xpen for the sake of simplicity, as they serve basically the same function), it would make sense that he's freaking out, assuming they're not just "I have to potty" cries. For me, I started out with an (actual) xpen instead of a crate because it was a nice middle step to teach my puppy to be okay being alone(as she hated the crate no matter what we did). This video was HUGELY helpful to me, and I recommend you give it a try as its helped her issues with being alone not just in her x pen, but elsewhere as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGxhcb-itO4 . Kikopup(the creator of that video) also has videos on crate training and a ton of other puppy stuff that you should watch, they're very helpful. You should also consider moving the crate into the bedroom for now, close to the bed, for the time being. A lot of people have had good success with that because if crying starts they can put their fingers near it/through the bars so the dog can smell them. Are you leaving him with anything to keep him occupied? I typically leave a stuffed kong and a chew or two (bully stick, bone that's too big to be swallowed, etc. A couple things of different texture), that way if she gets bored she has something to do. As far as treats go, I almost never use premade ones. Even small breed or puppy ones are way too big from what Ive seen. They only need to be about half the size of an eraser head for smaller dogs, that way they're quickly chewed and swallowed. Small and smelly works best. Easy stuff is hot dogs, cheese (esp string cheese), boiled chicken. As far as more commercial stuff, I get Natural Balance meat logs for my training needs and my dog LOVES it. I've tried both the Lamb and Beef and they're both great. Comes in log form so you can cut them up whatever size you want, and its super smelly; I've yet to meet a dog who wasn't instantly attracted to it, and for only ~12 bucks for a 4 lb log(or ~5 for a 1 lb) it'll last you ages. Cant recommend enough. ThatPazuzu posted:
Stop letting him out of the room with you for the time being, even consider tethering him to you so he can't go somewhere private to do his business. That way you'll start to recognize his signals(sniffing a lot, aimlessly wandering, etc). You're cleaning his messes with an enzyme killing mixture, ala Natures Miracle, right?
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Apr 4, 2014 11:37
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I've been using Nature's Miracle, yeah. That's actually a good idea about keeping him leashed/barricaded and with me. It's been hard because I don't want to punish him for trying to go out and me not seeing him. Also, while I appreciate the suggestion, I'd prefer to not do the bell thing if possible. I don't know, I'm just not a fan of that
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Apr 4, 2014 14:03
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The only other option that I've found for pups with subtle/no signals for having to go to the bathroom is to be really, really on top of them and provide a regular schedule for frequent bathroom breaks.
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Apr 4, 2014 14:09
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With our guy we had him gated so he wouldn't chase the cat, and it also just happened to work in our favor with house training. We had a set schedule, but after a few days he started to get the idea and has his signals now (sitting at the door looking really forlorn). He hasn't been gated in with us for about a week, but everything is still working out well. We still operate on something of a schedule; he goes out 20 minutes after eating, regardless of whether or not he has let us know, and every two hours that we don't see any signs, he goes out and usually has to pee.
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Apr 4, 2014 14:15
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ThatPazuzu posted:I've been using Nature's Miracle, yeah. That's actually a good idea about keeping him leashed/barricaded and with me. It's been hard because I don't want to punish him for trying to go out and me not seeing him. I wouldn't worry about him feeling punished for being barricaded in the room with you. Most puppies at this age WANT to be around you, after all. He's probably doing his bathroom signals in the other room, you're just not seeing them. With him always in the same room, you'll probably start to pick up on his signals. If the dog truly doesnt show any signs of having to go (it takes people a while to pick up on the subtle signs that arent immediately obvious), you should put them on the schedule. After waking, eating, sleeping, playing, before bed, at the very least. Depending on your specific dog, you can decide how often to take them out in between. Its safe to start with 2 hours and build from there (the general rule of thumb is 1 hour per month of age)
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Apr 4, 2014 17:01
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Psychobabble! posted:I wouldn't worry about him feeling punished for being barricaded in the room with you. Most puppies at this age WANT to be around you, after all. He's probably doing his bathroom signals in the other room, you're just not seeing them. With him always in the same room, you'll probably start to pick up on his signals. Yeah, when we were housebreaking Artemis and Jada I made it a point to take them outside every 1-1.5 hours (basically between episodes on netflix/between tv shows. It's a natural stopping point and works well as a reminder. As time went on, they needed fewer trips outside, so even though I'd take them outside they wouldn't potty at all. Once that was consistent, I took them out less frequently. This whole time we were teaching them to ring bells. It works great for us (albeit they're smart enough to know that I'll take them outside pretty much for every ring, so you have to set boundaries with it. Bells=potty Bells =/= playtime. Take them outside, don't let them run around and play, if they don't do anything then it's time to go back inside). It's a long process, and you have to be diligent about it, but once you do it really pays off. Any reason why you don't want to use the bells in particular? I don't remember seeing besides "I don't want to" ThatPazuzu posted:I've been using Nature's Miracle, yeah. That's actually a good idea about keeping him leashed/barricaded and with me. It's been hard because I don't want to punish him for trying to go out and me not seeing him.
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Apr 4, 2014 17:34
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Thanks for the ideas! We have both a crate, and the kitchen is gated off. At night, we usually walk around the yard in the back, I will start taking him for an actual walk now though instead. We had our first training class last night, he was so mental worked, he slept as soon as we got home, and then another full 6 hours 11-5am! It was amazing! Now however, I noticed he has a small patch on the top of his head that looks like the hair is balding. It's maybe the size of a nickel, and the hair is really thinned out. I can't get a picture for the life of me, since the phone is bright orange and he wants to just sniff and eat it. He's not itching, or anything weird about it.
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Apr 4, 2014 21:26
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Oh, by punish him, I mean for going in the house. I can't blame him trying to go out and failing but I also can't show him that pooping inside is okay so I just need a solution to him being quiet about needing to go out. And yeah, I don't have a huge problem with the bell option but I just prefer to have him bark or whine or whatever. I don't know, it's just a preference. I'll try it if the other plan doesn't work.
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Apr 4, 2014 21:52
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ThatPazuzu posted:Oh, by punish him, I mean for going in the house. I can't blame him trying to go out and failing but I also can't show him that pooping inside is okay so I just need a solution to him being quiet about needing to go out. If you punish him when you see him poop inside, he'll likely learn to hide and poop inside. It's not the lesson you want to teach.
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Apr 4, 2014 22:14
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Just to update everyone, they named their puppy Antler after the Fallout: New Vegas cow head (I think) Weird name, but she's still fuzzy and adorable. Also Moose is afraid of her...so they need to work on that a bit.
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Apr 5, 2014 07:00
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so the puppy is home. full of energy! Looks like she's going to be a pretty cool dog! 
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Apr 5, 2014 10:19
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New SA account, new puppy! Named Amos, he's 3.5 months. Shepherd mutt with some boxer. Don't let the picture fool you he is very active and playful. Buggiezor posted:He just adopted another dog! A little sister for Moose! Very cute. What breed is that?
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Apr 6, 2014 18:44
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Looks like a beagle to me.
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Apr 6, 2014 19:02
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Yes, she's a little beagle pup.
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Apr 7, 2014 04:32
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So some slightly more specific Oliver/Cat questions: So since I last posted, Oliver's relationship with our cat has continued to get better. At this point, we no longer keep him gated in, and the last couple of days we've let him sleep wherever he wants, rather than in his crate. He's chosen to sleep either under our bed or to the side of it. During the daytime, he still exhibits some chasing behavior toward the cat, but she seems less and less upset by it, and is becoming braver around him. She's willing to bop him one or two if he gets to rough with her, and is starting to make her presence known around the house again. He's basically stopped growling at her except during times when he's obviously in play mode; I can tell because he does the same thing with us when he's feeling especially goofy. We're still having one issue, though. The bedroom. Oliver has decided, now that he can sleep where he wants, that he wants to be under our bed, or to the side of it, next to my laundry basket. The cat sleeps with us on the bed, and always has. He often doesn't want to let her into the room though, and when he sees her at the door he'll sometimes run up to her and block her. When she does come in, if he's in his area and she moves toward ours, he will growl and occasionally bark. For her part, she isn't helping, and she tries to jump to different places closer to him; I don't know if she thinks she's playing or what. She always gets into bed eventually, usually after he's fallen completely asleep, but at least a couple of times a night we'll be awoken by a growl or a bark or Oliver waking up and making a little lunge at her. We aren't afraid he'd hurt her at this point; he could do that pretty easily if he wanted to. But we are afraid that he might be getting territorial about "his" space which we want to be shared with the cat, who was there first and has always slept there. We figure it's just a matter of time, but are also wondering if we might've let him into the bedroom too early.
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Apr 7, 2014 13:26
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I've been wanting to get a corgi puppy for years, have done lots of research, but was held up by a rental that didn't allow pets. My boyfriend and I finally found a pet-friendly apartment and just moved in, so it's time to start looking into getting my pup! Now, to find a breeder... Fortunately I live in San Francisco, where there seems to be a pretty big corgi community (although I don't know any of the owners personally). I found a directory of local corgi club members: http://www.goldengatecorgis.org/members/members.htm. I emailed the main outreach address a couple of weeks ago and haven't heard back, so it might be time to start reaching out to individuals, but I'm not sure where to start! I'd like to get one sooner rather than later, so I'll probably reach out to several, see how legitimate they seem, as well as how long wait lists are and when litters are planned. I'd also like to find someone within about a two hour drive (there seem to be a lot that fit this, fortunately). I'd love a female tri-color (or a more unique, "faulted" color/coat) if possible, but I'm not sure how much more difficult that would be and if that's something to mention in the first contact. Aside from randomly emailing the people with "Puppies" listed who are closest to me, does anyone have any advice on narrowing this list down? I've never dealt with breeders in my life, and any advice is appreciated! Thanks!
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Apr 8, 2014 06:08
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biggest platypus posted:Aside from randomly emailing the people with "Puppies" listed who are closest to me, does anyone have any advice on narrowing this list down? I've never dealt with breeders in my life, and any advice is appreciated! Thanks! When we were looking, we found the easiest way to ferret out the BYB, was to ask for a health history for the parents. Legit breeders would reply, BYB wouldn't. A fair few are also technophobes and despite having website and email addresses, really only responded to phone calls.
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Apr 8, 2014 08:49
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biggest platypus posted:I've been wanting to get a corgi puppy for years, have done lots of research, but was held up by a rental that didn't allow pets. My boyfriend and I finally found a pet-friendly apartment and just moved in, so it's time to start looking into getting my pup! It's really weird to me that they don't list websites as well, that's kind of frustrating. I just went through this process late last year(with a shiba, though), so here's what I did: I looked at all the breeder websites on my state's club page(unfortunately not an option for you, so instead, part of my email reaching out would ask if they had a website). Once I found breeders I liked, I sent them an email asking if they were expecting any litters within our time frame(which was early 2014 for us, a good time frame for you could be within 6 months?). I sent emails out to every breeder I was interested, I think it ended up being something like 7, haha. From there they asked me questions about our lifestyle, if we had experience with the breed, what we intended to do with the puppy while we were at work, etc. You dont want to work with a breeder who doesn't ask you questions because if they don't care about where their puppies are going or how they're going to live, they probably don't care for their own dogs that well and it's a pretty clear sign of a BYB or a puppy mill. Some breeders will get miffed if you ask about price in the first email because it makes it seem like you're just trying to shop around for the cheapest dog, so I wouldn't do that personally. I would also ask if they bred tri's, as they are a bit harder to find, and also ask about health testing, aka hips/eyes/knees through a database like OFFA, not just someone who is going to say "yep, my dogs are healthy!" One thing you don't want to do is make your first email a deposition with a million questions. Ask your questions but don't, like, send them a bullet list of 20 in the first email. The OP of this thread has a good list of questions that you should ask at some point, but don't feel like you have to ask all of them. If you're lucky they'll have a website to send you and it'll answer some of your questions. You should probably also include a phone number because yeah, a lot of breeders are dinosaurs(I was so happy the breeder we went to was computer savvy for being an older lady) Another thing we did when seeking a breeder was go to a breed specific meetup and chat people up on breeder recommendations, you can do the same with dog shows. A quick googling brought up this group, not sure if it's still active but you get the idea: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/sfcorgi/info. Corgis are a popular breed, so even if that group isn't active anymore I'm sure you can find another group somewhere if you search around. Hope that helps!
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Apr 8, 2014 10:47
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I have never personally been responsible for a dog (My parents got one when I moved out) but have been considering one. I picked this up http://www.amazon.com/KISS-Guide-Living-Bruce-Fogle/dp/0789459760 and have been going through it. So far I know that I want to adopt from a shelter. I'm looking at dogs in the 2-3 year old range. I am a single male living in an apartment. My apartment has a dog park. I work 7:30-5 but can come home for lunch 3-4 times per week. I go to the gym 3 times a week, other than that I am available. I would love a blue heeler, but it don't think that would be fair to the dog if I worked full time and lived in an apartment. Basically, should I even be considering a dog? If so, can y'all recommend some breeds that are good for my lifestyle, 30-60lbs, and are decently intelligent.
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Apr 9, 2014 02:27
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I think you could find a dog to suit your schedule fairly easily. A heeler might be a bit much unless you plan to do a LOT of exercise with it after work, but some are less energetic than others. See if any shelters in your area have a foster program. A foster home will know the dog's temperament and energy level better. If my boyfriend's family can find a border collie* from a shelter that does fine with an owner that works full-time, I think you can manage to find something. *Do not get a border collie. Labs and goldens are the usual good go-to dogs. Or maybe find you a nice, chill shepherd mutt. Skizzles fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 03:25
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There are a lot of pit mixes (x lab or x shepherd) in shelters that would do fine in an apartment setting. Maybe not so good with a dog park, but if you commit to lots of leash walking you don't need a dog park. Avoid husky or husky mix even more than BC.
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Apr 9, 2014 06:18
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Keeping him in the same room as me has helped Buddy with house breaking a lot. He's only gone once in the house since (and it was when I left him alone for the first time) so it's been a massive improvement. He even woofs when he wants to go out so I don't have to keep an eye on him 24/7. Thanks for the advice. Bud's such a good dog too. He really likes to curl up on my lap and go to sleep.  Also, we were playing with one of his toys earlier and I got him too riled up and he started to snarl. I told him "no" and he instantly laid down and calmed himself. Besides his obsession with chewing paper, which he's improving on, he hasn't given me much trouble at all.I love my pup and he loves me and also birds.  
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Apr 9, 2014 16:33
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Honey is about 4.5 months old. She had her first round of shots, needs 2 more. She was in a friend's backyard on Monday evening, I thought it was clean but then I saw a random dog poop in the yard so now I'm worried. For the last day, her poops have been getting wetter, now they're almost like pudding. No sign of blood and she seems active still. Should I take her to a vet if her next poop is wet too?
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Apr 10, 2014 18:49
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Steve Yun posted:Honey is about 4.5 months old. She had her first round of shots, needs 2 more. She was in a friend's backyard on Monday evening, I thought it was clean but then I saw a random dog poop in the yard so now I'm worried. I would call the vet and see what they say. I was super paranoid when Nyx started getting watery stools. Turns out it was just the stress of a new environment + new food. Make sure she has plenty of water and if you have some pumpkin puree that can help solidify the stool.
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Apr 10, 2014 18:53
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So my friend got a dog, and she has been heavily "researching" all the right things to do. We were talking about dog food and she said about Pedigree, "It's a bag of corn and carbs. Dogs are carnivores and people forget that. Dog food advisor is an independent party who goes through the pros and cons of dog food." From what I have learned, Dogs are actually omnivores as they have adapted to domestication and can process starches and such. Is she on some wacky hippie thing, or is this site actually legit? http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/pedigree-dog-food-dry/
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Apr 11, 2014 01:08
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She's right. Dogfoodadvisor gets flak for falling for some buzzwords (I'm not sure which exactly), but it's the most legit site I know of when it comes to dog food. Tater is munching on some stuff they rate five stars right now after whetting his appetite on some mac and cheese I am a bad dog owner. Dogs are omnivores, sure, but a diet of primarily some sort of meat is best.
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Apr 11, 2014 01:20
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| # ? May 31, 2024 00:39 |
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Eegah posted:She's right. Dogfoodadvisor gets flak for falling for some buzzwords (I'm not sure which exactly), but it's the most legit site I know of when it comes to dog food. Tater is munching on some stuff they rate five stars right now after whetting his appetite on some mac and cheese I am a bad dog owner. Good to know. I can never tell with all the new age bs whether something is real or not sometimes.
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Apr 11, 2014 01:24
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