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Same thing happened to my e46 touring by the sounds of it, the part attached to the glass hatch siezed and left my wiper sticking up at a jaunty angle.... so I just unbolted the wiper stalk. That was about 40,000 miles ago and I haven't got round to fixing it yet! I'm used to driving vehicles with no rear visibility so it never bothered me. Would it be worth just looking for the whole piece of glass with the bits from a junkyard? That's what I was thinking of doing, I suspect, but haven't checked that the painted part of it may be swappable.
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Apr 3, 2014 19:35
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I'm looking at an 09 530i. It's being sold by a dealer on consignment from a leasing company. I had a PPI done and found the following: Some oil sludge Park break failed to hold car Steering angle sensor fail (associated ABS and cruise control fail) (possibly associated motor position angle not initialized error) Engine temp sensor fail Drink holder broken CD stacker facia detached S.O.S call failure (I think that just means it couldn't find a bluetooth phone to pair with?) The seller had BMWAus quote the repairs and decided they would rather give me my deposit back than pay up. Any ideas how major a problem it would be to fix these with an indie? Any estimate of how many hours labor would be involved? This is the only car with the options I want and it's a much cheaper than all the others on the market so I'm considering buying it anyway and paying the repairs myself, unless it's a very bad idea. edit: BMWAus quoted $3000 to fix edit2: there's also wear items - tyres at 5%, bushes are marginal, small crack in R/H/R window Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Apr 3, 2014 |
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Apr 3, 2014 22:59
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Captain Postal posted:This is the only car with the options I want and it's a much cheaper than all the others on the market so I'm considering buying it anyway and paying the repairs myself, unless it's a very bad idea. It's a 5 year old car with a list of deferred maintenance and abuse longer than the 14 year old e46 I bought last year. RUN (not walk, RUN) away. It's a horrible idea and you know it from the PPI you just got back. The reason it's so cheap is because no one is going to buy it after that kind of abuse. It's a ticking time bomb of very expensive maintenance bills.
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Apr 3, 2014 23:23
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Jesus christ how could you look at that repair list and think "YUP, ME BUY CAR"?
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Apr 3, 2014 23:29
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Sludge is enough of a reason to avoid that car.
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Apr 3, 2014 23:30
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I thought sludge was a "change the oil a few times within a 1000km and it'll go away" issue. And for the rest, the only real problem is one sensor that is broken (but usually just needs a clean with isopropyl alcohol) and one that needs to be replaced For further info, it's at 60,000km and is due for an oil service in 3000km (hence the small amount of sludge didn't seem so bad to my uninformed mind) and in my defense, the mechanic who inspected it said that fix the two sensors, change the oil a few times and it would be a great buy
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Apr 3, 2014 23:41
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Captain Postal posted:I thought sludge was a "change the oil a few times within a 1000km and it'll go away" issue. And for the rest, the only real problem is one sensor that is broken (but usually just needs a clean with isopropyl alcohol) and one that needs to be replaced Said bro was also probably salivating at the thought of you coming back to him for a GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM which its probably getting close to time for as well.
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Apr 3, 2014 23:44
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SuperDucky posted:Said bro was also probably salivating at the thought of you coming back to him for a GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM which its probably getting close to time for as well. Nah, the inspector works for a company that does only inspections, no servicing. And I thought the e60's were pretty good for cooling system, especially the newer ones.
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Apr 3, 2014 23:51
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Captain Postal posted:I thought sludge was a "change the oil a few times within a 1000km and it'll go away" issue. And for the rest, the only real problem is one sensor that is broken (but usually just needs a clean with isopropyl alcohol) and one that needs to be replaced Sludge alone? Sure...maybe it's been sitting and there's condensation or it hasn't been up to operating temp in a long time. Sludge along with the mile long list of broken poo poo and deferred maintenance? It screams neglect. These aren't loving hondas/toyotas, you can't just keep oil in it and replace the brakes and tires and expect it to last forever. BMWs demand you stay on top of maintenance, otherwise you wind up with your car in the shop and bills with more 0s at the end than you ever wanted to see. It's half the reason we tell people to get a PPI in the first place, so that they can avoid the example of neglect you posted. Captain Postal posted:Nah, the inspector works for a company that does only inspections, no servicing. And I thought the e60's were pretty good for cooling system, especially the newer ones. So you didn't even have a BMW/Euro shop do the inspection? EDIT: e60s are just as prone to cooling problems as the other BMWs. You're looking at close to a grand (USD) in parts just to refresh that which'll be due very soon if you buy that car. Viper_3000 fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Apr 4, 2014 |
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Apr 3, 2014 23:59
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Captain Postal posted:I thought sludge was a "change the oil a few times within a 1000km and it'll go away" issue. And for the rest, the only real problem is one sensor that is broken (but usually just needs a clean with isopropyl alcohol) and one that needs to be replaced The sludge is a huge deal killer to me. From what I've seen in other M5x/N5x engines, if you can see a little sludge, the problem is already widespread and likely far worse than you can imagine. It won't clean up with a few oil changes either; the only sure fire way you're getting it out of the head is to pull it off and hot-tank it. Then there's the issue of longevity; all that poo poo circulating around the engine and blocking oil passages has caused an unknown amount of wear in the engine; you might get lucky and have no significant additional wear, you might not. It also doesn't speak well to the general maintenance level of the car (not that the huge laundry list of broken things didn't already). Unless the car was only used on very short trips, these motors only start sludging their oil significantly they're let to run more than 15,000 km between oil changes...longer than I would leave it, to be honest.
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Apr 4, 2014 00:08
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MrChips posted:It also doesn't speak well to the general maintenance level of the car (not that the huge laundry list of broken things didn't already). Unless the car was only used on very short trips, these motors only start sludging their oil significantly they're let to run more than 15,000 km between oil changes...longer than I would leave it, to be honest. This is another issue though. The car was serviced on schedule (it was owned by a leasing company so that wasn't an option for the previous leaser). I would personally never have oil over 15,000km old, but it did follow the service interval. To me that means that I am almost certainly never going to find a car that has been serviced at 15,000km because most people just do what the book says and service the car when it asks for it. This is not helped by there actually being no official service interval for these things, just a "service when told to" light. I was hoping that if it had recommended service to 60,000km, and the service it actually needs every 15,000km beyond that it would be fine. Is the consensus that I should never buy a car that has had the recommended services only? Because that severely limits options.
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Apr 4, 2014 00:16
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There is no such thing as a cheap BMW. It just goes against what market these cars are for. I feel like this needs to be posted on every page. But sooner or later you are gonna be paying the price of buying a $50k+ luxury car for under $5k. This really only works on some of the older models e30/e36 and even then the only way it's not a money pit is if you like working on them yourself. Captain Postal posted:Is the consensus that I should never buy a car that has had the recommended services only? Because that severely limits options. Theres nothing wrong with sticking to the recommended service for fluids and brakes. But when you only ever service those parts and ignore flagrant issues with a car that's not a good sign. It means that all the poo poo that is not considered "routine maintenance" but is still degradable was never replaced and the owner just didn't care. Popete fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Apr 4, 2014 |
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Apr 4, 2014 00:21
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As someone who's lost a car to engine oil sludge, I agree with the others that that alone is a reason to steer clear of this car. Do you have to buy a car now? If not, keep looking. That's not the only deal you'll ever find.
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Apr 4, 2014 00:30
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Captain Postal posted:To me that means that I am almost certainly never going to find a car that has been serviced at 15,000km because most people just do what the book says and service the car when it asks for it. This is bullshit. There's a metric poo poo ton of BMW enthusiast forums out there and a poo poo ton of owners who take pride in their cars, and wouldn't let the oil get to 15,000km regardless of what the onboard computer tells them. My e46 had a majority of the maintenance done before I got it. It needed a cooling system refresh and some other odd issues that needed fixing, but it's also a 15 year old car. I got a literal binder full of receipts and invoices for service over the past 5+ years that the previous owner had it. That's the kind of car you need to look for, not one that's fresh off a lease by someone who couldn't afford it.
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Apr 4, 2014 00:30
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Captain Postal posted:Is the consensus that I should never buy a car that has had the recommended services only? Because that severely limits options. The consensus is don't buy a car that has a bunch of glaring issues that come up in a PPI. You were smart enough to get a PPI, don't be stupid and buy it anyway.
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Apr 4, 2014 00:58
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Stop. Just stop. Don't argue, don't make excuses. Everyone here is unanimous that that PPI is a GIANT red flag and you should under no circumstances get that car. If you don't want to listen to a bunch of BMW owner/enthusiasts telling you that car is multiple four+ figure repair bills just waiting to happen, then fine, feel free to discover for yourself why so many people are convinced BMWs are money pits, but don't try to convince us, this thread knows better. There is not a 'no' big enough to describe that horror show.
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Apr 4, 2014 01:18
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The only E60s that are not as prone to the "god drat cooling sysyem" are the V8 models. They still have issues but the systems are built slightly better. Besides, that car was neglected, even if that list was on a Toyota.
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Apr 4, 2014 01:52
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Captain Postal posted:For further info, it's at 60,000km and is due for an oil service in 3000km (hence the small amount of sludge didn't seem so bad to my uninformed mind) To give you some perspective on this I just bought an 06' Audi, with 160,000kms, that had the following issues: summer tires were at the wear bars and a small tear in the drivers seat bolster. It had service records and an owner that loved the car. They had spreadsheets. They fixed a crack in the windshield that I didn't even notice. They bought a Carproof (canadian carfax) report for me. The car feels and drives perfect. This was for $8000 canadian dollars. You can do so much better than a car that has aged like a coal miner.
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Apr 4, 2014 06:54
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I'm a little late to this thread, but I owned a 540i 6-speed for a couple years. Loved it to death - when it worked. Unfortunately, it spent more time on the back of a tow truck than it spent with me in the driver's seat. You know you've got a problem when AAA wants to bill you for using too much towing... The car was the biggest headache of my adult life (which is a tall claim considering I've owned an Audi RS6). List of the things that broke: Radiator twice, water pump twice, valley pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, front main seal, brake master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, rear differential exploded (upgraded it with a 3.15 from an automatic sport pack 540), just about all the sensors - O2s, MAF, a few coil packs, the navigation computer, ABS computer, sunroof, main instrument cluster, two window regulators, the driver's door handle, the ignition switch... just one problem after another. I swore off BMW after that experience.. after all, with this image seared into my consciousness, it's how I forever remember it:  So anyone having BMW issues - my heart goes out to you. For my sake, I switched from Munich to Stuttgart and I'm very happy with the results.
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Apr 4, 2014 11:12
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Viper_3000 posted:This is bullshit. There's a metric poo poo ton of BMW enthusiast forums out there and a poo poo ton of owners who take pride in their cars, and wouldn't let the oil get to 15,000km regardless of what the onboard computer tells them. While this may be true, they're still only a tiny fraction of the general BMW buyer population. That's probably why an E90 owner's manual doesn't even tell you what the oil capacity of the engine is. Everything in there says to just bring it to the dealer when the car tells you to.
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Apr 4, 2014 15:48
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E30 chatte: can the gasket/seal that goes around the sunroof panel be replaced? In other news, after not being on the track in 3 years last weekend I got to go racing in a spec miata and it was so much fun that it's galvanized me into finishing up my track prep on my 318iS. Need to buy a rollbar, gut the interior and plastidip the body, since my paint isn't looking too great. The car is brilliantrot right now but I'm considering some sort of red color to go on.
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Apr 4, 2014 19:03
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More fun with my 335I: As I mentioned, I did things rear end backwards in trying to troubleshoot the misfiring on it. Initially replaced the injectors with rebuilt ones from InjectorDoc.com ; seems most posters on E90Post have had good luck with his injectors. I managed to get the BMW INPA software on my laptop, and coded the new injectors. Still was getting misfires, so swapped out all my ignition coils, as well as spark plugs with brand new ones. This made the car stop misfiring under load - I can hammer it, and the car runs buttery smooth...however, when starting up, the car runs like poo poo. It now starts one of two ways: 1) Long crank, at which point it runs decently after 5-8 seconds of cranking before it finally turns over. 2) Turns over right away, but runs rough for about 30 seconds - sounds like a diesel, car shakes a bit, RPM fluctuates from 700-1100 on the tach. Once it warms up a bit, it quiets down, and runs completely fine. Yesterday, when it was running rough on start, I hooked up my Cobb Accessport and pulled the codes quickly - got a misfire in Cylinder 1 code. I know that Cylinder 1 wasn't misfiring before - prior to me replacing the plugs and coils it was cylinders 3 and 5. At this point, I'm thinking more and more I may have bad injectors...even the replacement ones. However, I know that the long crank is a symptom of high pressure fuel pump failure. Can a failing HPFP cause misfires? Or god forbid, could the brand new coils or spark plugs be bad?
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Apr 4, 2014 21:15
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TeamIce posted:More fun with my 335I: Long cranks mean HPFP 90% of the time. A failing HPFP can also cause misfires but it is usually multiple cylinders. How many miles are on your car? Carbon buildup can cause the car to stumble on idle, but it doesn't really sound like a diesel.
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Apr 4, 2014 22:33
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88,000 KM on my car. Forgot to mention, I did have the car walnut blasted about 3 weeks ago to deal with carbon buildup.
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Apr 4, 2014 22:34
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TeamIce posted:88,000 KM on my car. Forgot to mention, I did have the car walnut blasted about 3 weeks ago to deal with carbon buildup. Did a dealer do the walnut blasting? If they did is your car's software the most current?
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Apr 4, 2014 22:38
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Getting-to-know-you service day for my 2003 530i w/ 80k miles. Transmission fluid change with pan drop and filter. Everything looked very good. Minimal swarf on the magnets, probably would have been fine to just drain and fill, but at least it has a new filter now and everything looks good. Rotors and pads at all four corners. It didn't really "need" this, it was braking fine and there was material left on the pads, but it can't hurt. All rotors were original and had serious lips, rears had grooves on all sides. Easier to just replace. Centric rotors with the nice painted hats and Hawk HPS pads. They bedded in nicely. The only thing I'm chasing is a low humming at low speed. BrokenKnucklez suggested wheel bearings and I've been watching for regular wheel bearing indications -- change in noise on turns, etc... but there hasn't been. However, both front wheel bearings had a noticeable notchy-ness when turned by hand with the rotor off. I'm assuming this is a failure mode for these bearings? It certainly could be the noise I'm hearing. If that's the case, is there any cause for concern with using non-Timken/FAG bearings? Amazon has Centrics at $57 each here: http://www.amazon.com/Centric-405-34002E-Front-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B003K31FGM ... that's half the Timken cost.
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Apr 5, 2014 20:48
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EVERYWHERE 
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I just want to get an idea on what to do with these tires. They're Bridgestone Turanza Run-Flat's 225/45/17's that came with my e90 335i. When I bought the car originally they replaced only 2 of the tires because I complained of excessive road noise during the test drive. I thought they did all 4, and didn't realize it was only 2 until months later when the tread was pretty different. I'd like to the sell them, most likely on CL, and I'll get an accurate tread depth before I do that. Tirerack has them new at $235/tire. Any suggestion on the best way to go about this? The 2 new tires have less than 8k miles on them. The 2 older ones, I have no idea.    
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Apr 6, 2014 02:03
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List the full set with measurements listed for front/rear. if 10/32nds is new, and 2/32nds is worn, and the fronts are at 8/32nds and the fronts are at 4/32nds, list them as 2 at 75, 2 at 25%. don't be a oval office and consider 0/32nds as 0% and 2/32nds as 20%. Don't split the set. 25% tread tires aren't worth the cost to mount/balance them. make them somebody else's problem.
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Apr 6, 2014 02:11
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I'd tell any potential new owner exactly what the deal is with them. But the real question is, will anyone actually buy run-flat tires with mismatched tread depth?
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Apr 6, 2014 02:23
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Binge posted:I'd tell any potential new owner exactly what the deal is with them. But the real question is, will anyone actually buy run-flat tires with mismatched tread depth? Absoultely. With my right foot. i'd even out 8/32nds-4/32nds tires by the time they were worn putting the newer tires on the rear. List the new price with a link to tire rack. if they're $1k new per set, and the average 75% wear, i'd say start at $600, work your way down $25/week.
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Apr 6, 2014 02:30
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So. I bought an E36 M3. Yellow. Last year. Immediately stored it for the winter. Finally got around to actually putting meaningful miles on it. Really enjoying the car. Car was oscillating ever so slightly after sitting in traffic for a bit. "That's odd," I think to myself. After clutching in/out and revving, "it's not tied to engine speed. I wonder what it is..." Once moving, the car drives perfectly smoothy. I continue to dong about enjoying all those extra torques after driving a Miata for 7+ years. Fast forward another 50km. I'm sitting outside a friends place. Idling a bit. Then the oscillation starts again. And then gets worse. "Maybe it's a failing coil pack," I think as it's now following engine speed. Then it gets EVEN worse. Sounds like I've lost a gear in the gearbox or a bearing in the engine. "gently caress WHAT. Ok, it's not the trans as I'm clutched in. It can't be oil related as I haven't lost pressure." I restart it one more time with the engine open, and my friend and I notice a fan blade wedged in the shroud. GDCS! We pull out the blade and restart the car. Thankfully, while moving and not idling and letting the engine get too hot, the fan doesn't rotate fast enough to cause any severe balance issues. So I drove home slowly and had no issues. There is a nicked coolant pipe and some dings in the rad. Neither of which are leaking. About 3-4 blades are MIA. Shame, was a newish rad too. Hopefully those little dings don't turn into leaks down the line. I'll have to look at the records to see if they replaced that when the GDCS was overhauled. I guess I'm a BMW owner now. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Apr 6, 2014 |
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Apr 6, 2014 02:38
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mungtor posted:While this may be true, they're still only a tiny fraction of the general BMW buyer population. That's probably why an E90 owner's manual doesn't even tell you what the oil capacity of the engine is. Everything in there says to just bring it to the dealer when the car tells you to. I'm an enthusiast, and take pride in my car. I still go 10,000 miles between oil changes - the car does not seem to mind. Granted, it's always Mobil 1 0w-40 as per the factory recommendation.
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Apr 6, 2014 06:02
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I go based on what the oil looks and feels like. I'm not draining synthetic that looks new out of an engine at 3k because MUH PRIDE.
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Apr 6, 2014 06:04
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doogle posted:Did a dealer do the walnut blasting? If they did is your car's software the most current? Dealer did do the walnut blasting, yes - they didn't mention any software update, nor is there anything on the work order re: it.
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Apr 6, 2014 06:16
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ValleyGirl posted:I'm a little late to this thread, but I owned a 540i 6-speed for a couple years. Loved it to death - when it worked. Unfortunately, it spent more time on the back of a tow truck than it spent with me in the driver's seat. You know you've got a problem when AAA wants to bill you for using too much towing... My 528i is the only car I've ever owned that has yet to get towed, and I've owned it for almost a year now. Before that, I needed four tows in one year with my '08 C300 - two were legitimate issues with the ignition switch, two don't really count - ran out of gas once because I'm retarded, and the newish Accord I borrowed from my parents while the Benz was in the shop (too young for a loaner) that decided to part ways with it's auxiliary belt in the middle of lower Manhattan at 3am (two long-distance tows in one week!). Point is, you've lost the lottery twice; AAA gave you poo poo for excessive towing - didn't happen to me, somehow - and your E39 had a million problems - but mine has been reliable, somehow.
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Apr 6, 2014 09:08
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stump posted:Same thing happened to my e46 touring by the sounds of it, the part attached to the glass hatch siezed and left my wiper sticking up at a jaunty angle.... so I just unbolted the wiper stalk. That was about 40,000 miles ago and I haven't got round to fixing it yet! I'm used to driving vehicles with no rear visibility so it never bothered me. You're unlikely to find a good one in the junkyard, the part is £60 in the uk. I just replaced mine as i hate poor visibility. Off the wall question, i have an '03 320d 6mt, how good a candidate is this drivertrain as a donor for a project? How much trickery would i need to pull out of the car to make it run?
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Apr 6, 2014 15:06
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voltron posted:What's the price at a dealership with a CCA discount? My local dealer charges $155 for a case of 12, which works out to just under $13/l. You gotta pay tax, but no shipping.
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Apr 6, 2014 18:15
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TeamIce posted:Dealer did do the walnut blasting, yes - they didn't mention any software update, nor is there anything on the work order re: it. The reason I ask is there was a software update in ~early 2010 that primed the LPFP when you unlocked the car which solved some long cranking problems. Can you hear a fuel pump when you unlock the car? If you can hear it you will most likely need a new HPFP. Edit: In the US there is a 120k/10 year HPFP warranty, I'm not sure if that applies in other parts of the world though.
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Apr 7, 2014 00:58
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BraveUlysses posted:E30 chatte: Yes the whole sunroof as well as gasket can be removed/replaced. It isn't that fun of a job but like everything else on an E30 it just takes time. E30 for the track...do it. Our E30 ChumpCar just continues to amaze me. We ran a track day Friday then a Chump race Sat/Sun. The car was ran from 9-5 with only breaks for driver swaps and fuel Friday, same thing 9-4 Sat/Sun. No issues, no problems, and very competitive. I'm really thinking about picking one up to turn into a S52-equipped track rat.
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Apr 7, 2014 00:59
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Just washed, polished, and waxed the 330 today: http://imgur.com/gallery/yUTrH Not bad for 10 year old paint. (not pictured, all the goddamn rock chips on my front lip/fascia  )
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Apr 7, 2014 02:37
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