|
Walked posted:So I am wrapping up my first project (workbench) tomorrow. I just want to say it took about a year but my first project (a desk) where I didnt need to buy a tool was an amazing feeling.
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2014 01:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 07:03 |
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:I just want to say it took about a year but my first project (a desk) where I didnt need to buy a tool was an amazing feeling. I don't know that that will ever happen for me, as I apparently pick projects specifically because I don't have the needed tools. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2014 02:12
|
|
|
Wait I thought that was the reason to pick projects.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2014 15:42
|
|
|
It's worked so far for me. "worked"
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2014 15:43
|
|
|
It only works so long as you have somewhere to put the new tools, which is why inevitably carpenters start dreaming about taking over the house and/or building extensions, sheds, etc.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2014 16:47
|
|
|
Random tablesaw related pictures: I got my general purpous blade in, along with a zero clearance insert.  For some stupid reason, I bought a crappy Grizzly tenoning jig and the drat base is warped like many others have discovered. I'm not sure if I want to true it up or send it back.  Here's what I grabbed at the local yard.  I bought this from a retiring woodworker off CL for $80. He used it twice since 03'. My dad "borrowed" my other kit two months ago and I figured I better just let him keep it, haha.  
the spyder fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Apr 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2014 05:36
|
|
|
I've been working on my staircase handrail project. I'm nearly done with the shaping/assembly portion of it: I just have to join the two "end caps" to the main body. The problem is, the join is a 45 degree miter cut, and in my experience glue alone is never adequate for that, and clamping is a pain and a half. How would y'all recommend I join these two bits together? They look something like this:  The rail is about 2.5" wide and 1" deep, with rounded-off edges. The end-cap is about 4" long at its longest point (2" long at its shortest). I could try drilling some holes into the two pieces and use some dowel tenons to strengthen the joint, but drilling straight into that surface is going to be tricky. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2014 21:23
|
|
|
I'm hopefully set for tablesaw blades now:
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2014 21:46
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I could try drilling some holes into the two pieces and use some dowel tenons to strengthen the joint, but drilling straight into that surface is going to be tricky. Any ideas? Do you already have your rail/fitting cut and you're just looking for a way to join them together? If so, the easiest way would be to set it up with glue and let it tack up, this only takes a couple of minutes. Hold it by hand to match up the profiles as best as you can to reduce sanding and whatnot, don't bother with clamps. Once it's tacked, use an 1/8th inch drill bit and drill through the side of one piece into the other on the top half of your rail and then do the same going from the other direction on the bottom half of your rail so that the screws run across the joint in both directions. Get some trimheads and run them in, anything 2 1/4 - 3 inches in length is fine. Alternatively, you can shoot it with a Senclamp but I assume you don't have one of those readily lying around, it's the best method but the gun itself is pricey and really only used for stuff like this. Is this going to be a wall rail and these caps being returned into the wall? I can't really tell by your picture (I assume that's a shot of the top of the rail) but if so, glue is plenty strong enough to hold on it's own but if you are really concerned with the integrity of it, a couple screws or even pin nails are easy enough to support it with. Johnny Bravo fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Apr 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2014 23:43
|
|
|
Thanks for the info. Yeah, this is a wall rail and the caps are meant to have their ends flush with the wall surface. And they're already cut, yes. I don't have a nailgun of any kind, no. As for just glue, I've had bad experiences in the past with glued miter joints, and considering that this is going to be a daily-use kind of thing when it's done I'd rather err on the side of sturdier when possible. I'm not a huge fan of the idea of using screws, even narrow trimhead ones, but they'd definitely work. I guess that's the fallback option if I can't figure out a safe/reliable way to put dowels into the joint itself.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2014 23:58
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for the info. Yeah, this is a wall rail and the caps are meant to have their ends flush with the wall surface. And they're already cut, yes. Yeah, it's your rail and your call, those are just the easiest methods to go about doing it. For what it's worth, I've ran hundreds of wall rails using trimheads to fasten the returns both to the rail and to studs in the wall and I've yet to have any called back in almost 12 years now so it definitely holds up but again, it's your call to make and you should do what you feel is going to be adequate. Re: just glue, I agree with you on that and I don't really like to rely on just glue itself but it is strong enough which is all I really meant to say. Getting back to your original point though, a healthy amount of glue and maybe 5 minutes of your time holding the pieces together (or get some tape, tape is wonderful for this) will let the glue set up to be strong enough for you to do whatever you want with it as far as drilling or inserting dowels goes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2014 00:16
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've been working on my staircase handrail project. I'm nearly done with the shaping/assembly portion of it: I just have to join the two "end caps" to the main body. The problem is, the join is a 45 degree miter cut, and in my experience glue alone is never adequate for that, and clamping is a pain and a half. Biscuit jointer or loose tenon/dowel joint. Plus, corner clamp of some description. E: this trick may be of use: http://woodgears.ca/frame/glue_miter.html thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Apr 6, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2014 09:03
|
|
|
I'm relatively new to woodworking, and my first projects are going to be to make a couple saw horses and a workbench. My garage is not going to allow for a nice table saw in my future because of space considerations. My goals are to build furniture like things. So, with that in mind, where should I start? I'm not opposed to hand tools. I'm not opposed to power tools. I have an old circular saw that I will use to make the saw horses and workbench. Any recommendations for workbench/saw horse designs for the newbie who wants to build things that will last and be useful for many years to come?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2014 17:44
|
|
|
dcgrp posted:I'm relatively new to woodworking, and my first projects are going to be to make a couple saw horses and a workbench. Do you have room for a bandsaw? A TS is more versatile for furniture but bandsaws are good too and take up less room. I'm not much help on the sawhorses, there are a million different designs. I was going to build some and suffered information overload and never did. You'll probably want some that stack. Here is one style: http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/404/stackingsawhorses.pdf And another: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxf6xMe_PKY
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2014 18:07
|
|
|
dcgrp posted:I'm relatively new to woodworking, and my first projects are going to be to make a couple saw horses and a workbench. If you don't have room for a table saw then you'll be looking at a lot more hand tool techniques. I really like Paul Sellers' videos on hand tool woodworking. He's got a series of videos on making a workbench too. For saw horses I used Mathias' plans and it looks like he redid the article to make them using a circular saw instead of radial arm saw: http://woodgears.ca/sawhorse/index.html (the plans are linked at the bottom of the page) 2x3 isn't commonly available around here and I didn't want to rip a 2x6 so I used 2x4 for the legs. They're a bit heavier but otherwise they've served me very well.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2014 18:34
|
|
|
http://www.startwoodworking.com/plans/build-simple-sturdy-workbench I just built this and it's sturdy as hell and wasn't too hard. I endorse it. Helpful videos and plans too
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2014 18:59
|
|
|
Cross posting from the Post your Projects thread: With the due date in about 3 weeks I just slightly beat out my wife at finishing our latest projects.  (Bonus confused dog shot) It's designed to accept new frame rails to eventually become a twin bed. Similar in style to the king size I made a few years back:  I also spent some time making a changing table topper for an old dresser of her's I refinished. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2014 03:03
|
|
|
Jonny Quest posted:Cross posting from the Post your Projects thread: "Why has my dearest human caged the elephant? Am I to be caged next?" Nice work! And congrats!
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2014 03:46
|
|
|
So as much as I hate it, I ended up in table saw feature creep territory. I'm very much of the mind that what I buy should be for one time use, or for forever use. Started out looking at the G0715P but it seemed to be iffy on stability with a lot of possible alignment issues. The G0123 was next, but back ordered until June 20 So I ended up with a G0690 ordered. More saw than I need now (or ever) but shouldn't need to buy again. I hope
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2014 22:48
|
|
|
For the staircase handrail project, I spoke with my dad about it and he suggested getting a jig like this one (click on the broken image to get one that's actually functional). Basically it's a jig for drilling dowel holes perpendicular to surfaces to simplify the process of making dowel tenons. They have a few different models, mostly just varying the selection of holes and the depth of the jaws (either ~2" or 6"). Any opinion on something like this? How do dowel tenons compare to classic mortise+tenon joinery? I'd be happy to buy one of these jigs if I thought I'd get good use out of it. When I finish visiting my parents I'll be able to borrow his jig temporarily, so at least I can give it a shot on the handrail.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 01:55
|
|
|
I posted this in the fix it thread, but they suggested I come here: The back leg of our antique sideboard cracked, right below where the wood is slotted to make a joint with a cross piece. Here's a pic of the damage:  I couldn't get a really good picture of it, but the back leg is one piece of wood up to the top, and is not turned or fancy like the front legs. It would be beyond our capacity to replace it and we'd need to hire a furniture expert to do that. Any way to repair this without replacing the entire piece? Wood glue and some sanding? We don't plan to put anything especially heavy on this, but would like it to last.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 03:05
|
|
|
newts posted:I posted this in the fix it thread, but they suggested I come here: You might be able to get a dowel or two in there from the backside where it wouldn't be visible (avoid drilling all the way through). And get as much glue in there as possible. That's what I'd try anyway.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 03:11
|
|
|
Wood glue and clamping would honestly probably be enough especially if you don't put much weight on this item, but putting a couple of dowels in wouldn't hurt. Basically you get some (say) 1/4" or 3/8" dowels and a corresponding drill bit, drill through both pieces of the leg (but not all the way through the larger piece), put in glue, then tap the dowel into the hole. Like I said, you'd also want to glue the rest of the crack and clamp it until the glue dries. You can get dowel pegs specifically for this kind of thing in multi-packs from the hardware store.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 03:31
|
|
|
Do you know how it broke? I'm wondering if the white stuff are water stains. If it has been in the damp, allow it to sit in your house for a few months to stabilize before trying to repair. Make sure you can close the gap with a clamp before applying glue.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 16:53
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice so far! I actually don't know how it broke, but it was fine before my husband moved it from our old house to the new one. I think the white stuff is actually some sawdust that got blown in while it was in the garage.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 21:16
|
|
|
So can you damage wood or glue by soaking it in metho for too long? I need to strip back the finish on a bunch of picture frames, and doing each of them one by one takes too long, and I have a supply of metho and both of the finishes say to clean up with metho.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2014 03:16
|
|
|
Anyone used the Ridgid JP0610? (the 6" jointer/planer). It seems to generally have positive remarks, and the pricepoint paired with relatively small size (and combining the two) helps with my space limitations. Still a ways off from grabbing one if this is a good buy; but it seems like its a good entry/mid level option for those with little space. Anyone have first-hand experience?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2014 13:16
|
|
|
Frogmanv2 posted:So can you damage wood or glue by soaking it in metho for too long? Metho = denatured alcohol? It will raise the wood grain but otherwise shouldn't do any damage to the wood. Google tells me you can clean off wood glue with DNA but I have no experience doing it ... so maybe?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2014 19:39
|
|
|
Walked posted:Anyone used the Ridgid JP0610? (the 6" jointer/planer). It's the one I use most often and has the usual caveats of adjust everything after unpacking and take many small cuts whenever possible. Oh, and register it immediately, I haven't had to do anything to mine beyond sharpening but it's easy to forget to do that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2014 21:22
|
|
|
Jonny Quest posted:It's the one I use most often and has the usual caveats of adjust everything after unpacking and take many small cuts whenever possible. Oh, and register it immediately, I haven't had to do anything to mine beyond sharpening but it's easy to forget to do that. This one only does jointing (making straight and true) but not necessarily planing them to thickness, right? Just making sure because it is billed as a planer but it seems to be mainly a jointer..
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2014 22:09
|
|
|
Walked posted:This one only does jointing (making straight and true) but not necessarily planing them to thickness, right? Yes. The reference to planer in the product name refers only to surface planing, ie flattening one face, and not thickness planing. A bit confusing since (in the US at least) we generally refer to thickness planers as just "planers."
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2014 06:43
|
|
|
Top tip: Buying a decent table saw blade does wonders when ripping maple!. My first maple project was making a set of folding shelves and I had nightmare ripping it on the tablesaw. (I use a co-op workshop, so the tools are not great, but functional). I had to really fight it to prevent it from climbing up on the blade and it was not fun at all. (And I spent ages sanding off burn marks). Watching some of the other guys work in hardwood, I noticed that they had their own tablesaw blades, so I asked around and bought a Freuds 50t combo blade. For $40 at HD, it was worth a try and man, what a difference. I had to make an identical set of shelves again, and this time it took me less than 30 mins to rip what took me nearly 2 hours the first time around. I also had my first trip to a 'proper' hardwood lumber store and it's so much cheaper!. I had previously found hardwood too expensive to work with, but this totally opens up to start playing with both cherry and walnut.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2014 07:35
|
|
|
Combo is a good buy if you'll only have one blade but rip blades rip even easier than combos.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2014 16:23
|
|
|
Hey guys, Apologies if this has been covered previously, but I'm looking to get into hobby woodworking using primarily hand tools. I don't want to end up with a basement full of woodworking machines, and the idea of keeping it old school appeals to me. My question is primarily if this is a foolish endeavor -- am I foolishly limiting myself if I consciously don't have a table saw or jointer/planer? If I'm not being completely unrealistic, what are some good resources for woodworking that focus primarily on hand tools? I'm particularly interested in a sort of "Logical Increments" of hand tool acquisition so I can start small and work my way up as I acquire the skills.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2014 22:00
|
|
|
Hey, it's your hobby, do whatever you want with it. Production will be slower if you don't use power tools, of course, but if you're more interested in the process than in the product (or if you value being able to say that the product was made without power tools, as some do) then that's not a problem. Not that I've done a whole lot of working with solely hand tools, but you'll want a variety of saws, planes, chisels, and clamps. A vise (and a bench to mount that vise on) will also be invaluable for holding your workpiece steady.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2014 22:38
|
|
|
Mr. Glass posted:Hey guys, Check out Paul Sellers' Youtube channel. If you like what he's doing and saying then you can pick up his book for some incremental projects. Early on in the book it covers a basic set of tools. You aren't limiting yourself, it's just a different way of doing things.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2014 00:00
|
|
|
Mr. Glass posted:Hey guys, Stock prep and production are where power tools shine. Hand tools won't slow you that much on one offs. But a lot of hand tool guys have table saws and planers because sawing and thicknessing by hand can be tedious and 
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2014 01:35
|
|
|
Picked up a bandsaw from an old man yesterday, Laguna 16 SEC, made in Italy. It came with a box of blades and a log ripping kit, anyone have any experience with log ripping kits? I need to spend some time setting it up and find a proper spot in my shop. I'll need to pick up a proper resaw blade, any recommendations?   
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2014 13:43
|
|
|
I'm a fan of Wood Slicer blades personally.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2014 15:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 07:03 |
|
|
Just about finished with a mobile router table cart. Been working on it off and on when I can find time evenings/weekends. Lots of it was made with scraps from older projects and cheap ply/MDO leftovers from a building material salvage place. I'm still pretty inexperienced so I tried to incorporate a few extra approaches that weren't really necessary just to try some things out. I drew up the rough plan for the carcase in sketchup, but after that I just kind of played it by ear, so some parts are not so elegant. Still need to add handles to the front panel and get the dust collection piped out of the box.  Imgur album
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2014 07:01
|
|